Is a Tilt Trailer the right way for me to go?

[Firemediceric]

I overcome this issue by using the ramps usually used for oil changes where you drive the front of the vehicle to gain ground clearance to work on the vehicle. I place these just under the rear of the trailer and drive or tow the vehicle to be loaded up these ramps onto the trailer.

Great tip. Thank you!

 

[dodge man]

I just brought my trailer up to my shop to coat the wood deck. I bet it’s been a year since I used it. It’s about 15 years old and I actually could sell it for what I paid for it or more.

A word of warning about mice. If you have any mice at all they can destroy the wiring. In my case they would get into the boxes the taillights are in and eat the wires. It was probably advice I got from this forum but I packed those areas with steel wool. Nor problems since. I towed the trailer a few miles and everything was good including the brakes. I always keep my fingers crossed when I first use it again.

 

[Firemediceric]

I packed those areas with steel wool.

Another piece of great advice that I would not have come up with on my own. Thank you.

 

[Too many Kubotas]

Yeah but the trailer weighs 8K plus. I love my 32 foot PJ hydraulic dovetail, but the trailers are heavy. Mine is rated at 22K and I am close to max when I put my 12K fire truck on it.

It's almost unavoidable to have a trailer with a higher load capacity weigh more, unless going with aluminum or a well engineered one. My 32' PJ weighed 10K, the 35' Diamond C weighs just over 8K. Both basically identically equipped.

A trailer's weight doesn't really bother me. If I want to move a vehicle that weighs 16-17K it takes a certain amount of trailer to do it. And with air suspension it doesn't matter if the trailer is empty or at max capacity, it still rides nicely.

The one I wish I had kept was a small one with 7K axles. It was very light, and there was room for a third axle to make it more useful, but I foolishly sold it for cheap.