Recent content by kinglake

I am not arguing, but Morton buildings are well engineered. If you want to go overboard, go for it, but it is unneeded and a waste of material. "Best known method" is comprised of many things, including the most efficient way to accomplish the goal. *Morton does use laminated poles, but the...

As a follow-up, look at Morton Building, maybe the largest pole barn builder, whom doesn't notch. RR Buildings on YT, while not technically pole barns, doesn't notch either. It simply is not required or needed. Same scenario for decks, poles should not be notched.

I've been in hundreds of pole barns and never seen one with the poles notched for the headers. Not saying its a bad idea, just unneeded.

New guy coming on harsh as a "know it all". Good luck.

Whether OEM paint is better is irrelevant, but your "example" is completely flawed. You are using two different colors with red absorbing significantly less light than green. It only makes sense that the red example would be better based on light exposure.

Correct. Units above 15k BTU are 240v, not 120v. The discussion was about 120v circuit wiring and receptacles and there are simply no 120v AC units that use 120v 20amp plugs. We took this thread off-topic though, my apologies.

None of the AC units you linked to have 20amp plugs. Typing something into Google and getting results doesn't make it true. Actually click on the AC units and you will see they all have standard 15amp plugs.

Not to be argumentative, but you'd be hard pressed to find a window A/C with a 110v 20amp plug. It is by far and away the exception versus the rule. In fact, I just did a cursory search of units up to 15k btu and can't find any with a 20amp plug.

The internals of a 15amp receptacle are 100% identical to a 20amp receptacle. There is absolutely no reason to use a 20amp receptacle unless you have or plan to have an appliance that needs that plug type which is HIGHLY unlikely.

Because as you slide the conduit down the wire, the edges of the conduit can easily cut into the wire insulation. In addition, the PVC glue for the conduit degrades the wire insulation. I do it the same as you, but was just mentioning the code in case he has to have it inspected. Here it is...

While certainly easier, this is not allowed by code if that matters in this circumstance. All conduit has to be in place and connected before any wire is pulled. Based on his past comments re inspection, there is a chance the trench with conduit in place without wires will need to be inspected...

Agreed. I'd have a serious conversation with your electrician before replacing any #12 with #14. I can't think of any valid reason to do so.

Lasco and other PVC fitting manufacturers make a IPS X CTS coupling for this exact scenario. They call it IPS instead of NPS, but same thing. Sharkbite does as well of course but much more expensive. Couplings are generally available at Home Depot and other similar stores. Coupling

CPVC comes in both NPS and CTS sizes. CPVC in NPS (nominal pipe size) is the exact same as PVC. This is the most common sizing, however if you have CPVC in CTS (copper tube size) then it will be a different OD than PVC of the same size.

That is definitely a different way to go about PEX. You've researched everything you've done so far and tried to follow best practices, so I'm curious why you didn't do that for PEX and instead built some type of random manifold?