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It all depends on what gear you are trying to go uphill in. Simple answer is shift into a lower gear. Has it gone up this hill before with no loss of power - ie: it worked before, and now it doesn’t?

The whole thing is a big red flag……..

The capsule is tiny - 6mm x 8 mm. Probably never find it without a detector

Everything else drains ok (toilets, other sinks, showers)? If they do, and your septic is not backing up, then maybe there’s something physically wrong with the kitchen pipes - not enough slope or air lock/plugged vent or something. Put a new j-pipe in under the sink - cheap an easy if that...

Had same problem when I first had my MF tractor. Seat padding was frozen and the safety switch could not detect me sitting in the seat. Flipped up the seat, unplugged the safety switch, and put a wire in the female plug connecting the two sides of the same plug. No more problems...

If nothing is happening, it may be a safety switch. Just make sure it’s not in gear, pto switch is off, etc.

Doing about 75 mph…..nobody wanted to be behind him. One little strap holding it on, with the metal bed frame piece sticking up

I think you should just buy back her $50,000 ring for her birthday…… Ha ha

Is it possible that you added an appliance on the circuit so that now when you pkug in the block heater that it trips it? Easy to test by unplugging the other appliances, and then plugging in the block heater to see if it still trips.

Appears to be this based on a google search https://www.batteriesplus.com/productdetails/battery/lawn-tractor-and-mower/kubota/l3710-tractor/38.5-hp-585cca/na/sli24

Problem though is that there might not be enough room around the filter to use that chain wrench. That’s what I interpreted the OP’s issue to be (in part). That’s why the style I showed/used is so great - can fit into a tight space, then use a socket wrench with an extension to loosen it.

I use this style (one i have is a little different). I can set it in place (grip the filter) in tight spots with my fingers, and then put the socket wrench in to loosen it.

Looks like it’s a dually; tongue weight would be over the axle. The trailer deck looks like it’s resting on the trailer tires though. Sppears to be having engine troubles…….

I think it might be a fifth wheel hitch. Found it on another site.

Proper weight distribution is the key to success

Weight and power are really the only way to deal with that concrete like snow layer. I have a 50 hp 6,000 lb skidsteer with a 5 ft blower. If i have a layer of hardpack, I angle the blower down a bit (it has a great scraping edge) and try to scrape it up. Even with that weight, piwer, and...

https://www.justanswer.com/agriculture-and-farm-equipment/ennus-problem-lift-arms-mccormick-tractor.html

If you keep a tarp over it when not in use, maybe that will help keep the water out of wherever it’s leaking in. Doesn’t fix the problem, of course, but maybe less hassle, at least.

A very simplistic solution (possibly) that I would try if it were me - maybe just wrap some duct tape around the connection so that the brush/sticks can’t pop it apart. Worth a shot at least.

I have one card I use for daily purchases - gas, food, etc. have a few others as backups - I go online and “freeze” those accounts until I need to use them. I also get text alerts for all of the cards. Very useful.

Don’t think his mind is up to speed…..

Just remembered a “selling” story from last summer- had listed some plow controllers for sale on Craigslist; few hundred bucks. Buyer contacted me; agreed on everything. Told him he could mail me a personal check, and I would ship them out. He was within 100 miles if I recall. The...

Physically look at the entire steering mechanism to make sure nothing is wrong with it. While you are doing that, grease/oil every moving part that you see. Is it piwer steering (hydraulic piston in front)? If it is, make sure your hydraulic fluid is full. That being said, mine has piwer...

All attachments that exist……..

I do on call courier work for a company that delivers lost luggage from the airlines to the customer; very profitable line of work. For Southwest’s recent debacle, evidently they are using FedEx to deliver the bags to the owners.

Did the same with my B7500 years ago - accidentally put some gas in. Found out when it started running rough and sputtering. Drained the fuel, changed the filter, and never had any issues. You will be fine. In my case, I put better labels on my fuel cans……

I sold a bunch if equipment over the past few years. It was surprising how much cash people have on hand. Sold an excavator for $16k; he brought a stack of various denominations. I think alot of folks don’t trust banks, so prefer to keep their money in cash. Can also use Venmo, Zelle...

Just a sad, stark reminder to make sre when you get off of a machine (running or not) to make sure to take all proper safety precautions- setting the brake, turning off pto, etc, etc. I have to consciously think about that when I get out to clear the clogged snowblower, or clear the...

Based on my experience with car tires, a slow undetectable leak like you describe really can only be fixed by reseating the tire and replacing the valve. Much more of a pain to accomplish with a big tractor tire, of course. I foam filled all my tires years ago; that’s always an option if...

That small hose you circled does not need to be tightened; is good as is.

They don’t hold much. Your gearbox presumably came with gear oil already in it. I’ve had the same little quart bottle (or whatever size it is) of 90 weight gear oil for about 15 years. I check the various gear boxes every few years, but the oil levels have never been down

Not specifically, but generally you fill gear box oil up until it starts coming out the fill hole.

What was 25% full - the degas bottle or the radiator? If it was the degas bottle, as long as it’s between the fill marks, you should be ok. Shouldn’t have any leaks though, so still make sure everything is tight as explained in the prior posts.

A toothless bucket can still dig into the earth, it will just take time. Works best when you try to skim a little bit of dirt at a time. If you hit a large rock though, then for the most part, you’re at a dead stop. Like Oldnslo says above, you could loosen up the dirt first. I used to do...

I have to top off the coolant occasionally in my various machines; I think that’s just normal - nothing to worry about unless you’re having to add large amounts each time.

You could probably determine if it’s a safety switch for something- just take the jumper wire out and see if you can start it. If it won’t start, put the jumper wire back in and leave it for the next owner to figure out what it’s for…….

Much quicker and cheaper to get one made locally if possible. Truck shops that deal with larger trucks usually make their own hoses and could make one for you if yhere are no dedicated hose places around. Ag dealers too, of course. Just bring the old hose with you for them to match.

I put a new air filter in after the winter. During the summer, if it’s just dusty, I’ll just blow the dust out with the air compressor.

By “warming things up”, I mean the engine oil and hydraulic oil. It’s not warming up the diesel. If the diesel was going to gell, it would have been in that state prior to me trying to start it due to it sitting in the cold.

Correct. The reason that I said that is because his fuel is probably not gelled. I am in the NE in subzero temps occasionally and my ASV PT-50 has never had the fuel gel. I use the oem block heater, which is very useful in cold temps. If I don’t use the block heater, it will start...

I put Diesel 911 in my diesel cans so it’s already in it when I fill the tractor. Helps alot with the gelling fuel.

No block heater? My ASV PT50 (2009) came with one. Put a bottle of the red 911 fuel additive in. Are you using the glow plugs to preheat?

Also have the scenario where it’s below zero and the wind is whipping and you’re trying to get gas and answer all the questions on the gas pump screen, including what type of car wash you would like to buy today… And then, once you made it through all of the questions and are pumping gas, you...

How fast is it going down? On my MF1540, it will normally slowly leak down, and I just automatically bump it back up a bit.

https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/cgi-bin/viewit.cgi?bd=ford&th=307006

Same experience here….. I think my tractor battery is more than ten years old. Still starts right up; have never had to charge it or boost it. Now that I’ve said that out loud, it will die on me tomorrow……

If you plan on selling it, I’d say don’t bother fixing it, just because something else might break in the process. Obviously just disclose the issue in the ad and say that you’ve adjusted the price down to reflect that……. Probably find a potential buyer that may know if an easy fix. Just...

Can’t bend them; think it would put too much stress on them with the hose attached. I put a piece of rubber between the new hose and that metal piece. The old hose lasted about 14 years before it burst, so this should outlast me….. I mainly wanted to give a heads to others that have a...

Not a mechanic, and certainly not an expert, but my personal experience when something is all of the sudden screwy with the hydraulics is that I have connected the lines incorrectly. So my initial thought is that you should make sure everything is connected correctly. Is the hydraulic fluid...

Have an Erskine 2000 72” snowblower on my skidsteer; purchased it new in 2009. No issues; solid snowblower. However, I blew a hydraulic hose on it a few days ago. Turns out that the hose was slightly touching a metal support all these years, and it was slowly being worn thtough due to...

Is the snowblower hydraulic? If so, check the hoses on the blower for the leak.

My washing machine has a “pure” mode, which is cleaning mode. I put in some bleach when I run the pure mode. Kills off any mold and such.

No specific knowledge, but generally I would check the fuses and check that the battery cables are clean /tight (all ends), including any grounds.

Try unhooking the battery for a few minutes; that sometimes clears things. Depends on the code too, of course. Need to determine what the code is telling you.

What’s the trouble you’re having? Does it crank a long time? Does it start and die?

Clearly that’s a foreign right steer car…….

Why the restriction on the length - to fit into a garage? Obviously, the larger the tractor, the more lifting capacity you will get (generally). Maybe go to any local dealer (doesn’t matter which brand) and take some measurements and note the model number. Then when you get home, look up...

I just google the filter/part number and buy it online. Just easier than driving to the dealer. I always keep a new filter on hand do that it’s there when I’m in the mood to do the change. This is an older thread re: changing the hydraulic filter and oil loss mitigation…...

Think they mean to connect the powered wire from the heater directly to the battery terminal (vs tapping into a fused line).

What does your invoice from the dealer say that he filled it with? If it doesn’t say, call and ask him. Based on your description, it does sound like whatever he put in there froze.

Grew up on the left side at the end of a dead end road in the 60’s and 70’s. Town plow would back up a few times to clear the whole dead end. Alot of the snow would get pushed into the end of the neighbor’s driveway on the right side. Then the plow would back into our driveway to turn...

Should warm it up in neutral with the brakes engaged; no need to be in gear. For the seat by pass, I don’t know about yours specifically, but generally just unplug it, then put a wire in the female end connecting the two sides of the female plug.

I’ve got a small pond out back that’s sloped, kind of like a boat ramp. If I’ve got mud in my skidsteer tracks, I’ll drive into the pond and mive it back and forth to “swish” as much mud off that i can. Otherwise, as mentioned above, I just let it dry and then drive around the yard to let...

The “end all” to flats, beads popping, etc, is to foam fill the tires. Expensive, but may be worth it for those of you that have to deal with it a lot. I foamed filled all four of mine years ago - drive over anything and no worries/issues.

I think Mossroad is correct - just unscrew the lugnuts and the rim/tire should come right off.

There’s nothing binding up the pto shaft when you lower it? If you raise it back up as soon as it starts to die, does the engine come back to normal? Does it do it for all implements?

Can’t answer your questions about the dump box, but if you have a loader, might be just as easy to stack the wood in that; could probably fit more in the loader anyway. Just a thought……

On my skidsteer, it was an indication (in hindsight) that my alternator was going bad. Eventually the tach just stayed at zero. Happened twice - first time six years after i bought it (new), and a second time almost exactly six years later (just put a new one in last week). A simple quick...

I first pour it into a smaller oil can that has one of those long adjustable filler necks on it. On my skidsteer, the hydraulic fill point is in the cab behind the seat - can’t fit/tilt a large container. Edit - like this:

Owners manual pdf http://www.tym.co.kr/spectree/configs/data_lib/board/board_data/2/20181127/8ea4ba9d5d44c066b3ca89ebe3d4ea1f_cover.pdf

May want to get a small 12v fan for the inside to keep the windows from fogging up; even though you don’t have a heater, just breathing and your body heat can cause condensation or fogging.

This might help https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/threads/a-very-simple-fix-for-non-functional-jd2305-pto.398226/

Pretty sure it’s the right side

I use an ASV PT50 tracked skidsteer with an Erskine blower and a heated cab; works great. I keep my tractor and pto blower as just a backup, but haven’t used it in years (fow snow blowing, that is). I used to plow with my truck (F350 with MVP and wings), and use the skidsteer for pushing...

Buy a second top link just for the blade - adjust it, and leave it hanging on the blade when you use other implements.

I power wash the tractor each fall before winter, including the console, seat, steering wheel , etc. (don’t have a cab). Never any water issues in close to 20 years…… I put a tarp over the operator’s station in winter just to keep snow and ice from building up there.

This is an older thread that popped up on a search from a different site - there are more recent threads, but the concept is the same https://www.plowsite.com/threads/plow-mods-for-my-1000-gravel-driveway.126599/

Basically, the tractor components will be fine. Only the interior parts of the cab itself might be less weather resistant.

I was interested in seeing a picture to see how the hinges or folding mechanism looked. On my MF1540, the ROPS is secured upright by tightening two bolts (makes it very snug). In my Zero Turn mower, the hinged part is very stiff (have to put real effort into it to lower or raise it), so it...

Have two 1,000 gallon above ground tanks in Upstate NY - have never had an issue with freezing when it goes below -20. Don’t think we’ve ever had -30, but have had -25, or multiple consecutive days of , say -10 or so.

Drove on the NYS Thruway today in the Finger Lakes region - could see that the DOT had applied brine to the road. Not sure why - sunny and in the 70’s……

Can you post a picture of the part that’s making the noise to see how the parts meet? One general suggestion would be gorilla duct tape - wrap it around the joint so that nothing can move, or even over the area where you had the neoprene (the gorilla tape may be more resilient)

Good idea. Probably a way to test the belts first is to swap them and see if the problem moves to the other side.

Agree with Cougsfan - I used a Sawzall to try and cut a rear tire from a ZTR off the rim, but the wires in the bead were too much for the Sawzall to handle. Angle grinder would probably be the quickest.

I wouldn’t think the load range would change the ride as you describe it. I used to keep the E load tires on my truck at 72 psi all the time - plowing, towing, and empty. Empty pickups can also drive really squirrelly when the bed is empty. Just putting a few hundred pounds in the bed...

First NYS plow all set up coming out of hibernation……..was about 70 degrees out.

No personal knowledge, but these two links may help you https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/threads/gc1710-temperature-gauge.360084/

To keep car windows clean, in the winter, I keep a spray bottle of windshield washer fluid in a spray bottle along with an open bucket of washer fluid and a squeegee (foam and rubber wiper end) in it. Spray the windows with the spray bottle, then scrub and wipe with the squeegee. Gets the...

I wrap my funnels in a large plastic bag - keeps everything out (bugs, dirt, etc) and even contains any leftover over drops until they dry out.

I have a Noco Genius GB26000 - works great. https://no.co/support/g26000-charging-modes

I get up early (3am or so) and would go to the grocery store early when it was nice and quiet to stock up on stuff. That all changed with Covid though, as the 24 hour stores started closing around 10 pm, and then not re-opening until 6 am. They are still like that today.

Snow sticks to rust/bare metal easily; plus it’s not slick to help in moving/throwing the snow. What i do each year is get enamel spray cans and paint all of the augers/fans/chutes, etc. - wherever snow moves through it. It won’t be the end all to solve your issues, but it does definitively...

Similar situation, but Verizon gives me the discount for using automated payments. They also notify me 11 days in advance as to what the withdrawal will be, so I have time to review or contest it.

Same here - tilled a garden for my wife; worked fine. Did it with a Kubota B7500 and a 4 ft tiller

One side benefit of chsins is when you do have ice or built up hard packed snow, when you get a warmer sunny day, you can just drive up and down the driveway to help break it up and melt quicker. Can the plow off the broken up snow.

If you could somehow stick a washer or two on it, that might provide enough material to make the screw action much tighter (less likely yo loosen on its own)

Usually the fill tubes are located near the rear of a tractor - up high, of course. Might be under or behind the seat too. The fill tube for my Massey Ferguson sticks out the top of the area above the 3 pt hitch - access it just by standing in front of the 3 pt hitch. It’s not going to be in...

My choice would be chains; they’ll be much better when your in deep snow, slush, off the driveway, trying to get unstuck…. I used studded tires on my plow truck because the pavement would ice up quick after making a pass. The studs would leave marks on the pavement from spinning the tires...

I saw the chained tire in your first picture, and thought “that tire is huge!”…….then I focused a bit better….

He should have at least duct taped the safety chains to the tail gate……

For the heck of it, if you still have the old fuel filter, stick that back on and see what happens

Something fishy about the whole thing……..

When it didn’t work with the new hoses, did the enine lug at all, or the pump sound like it was trying to work? Could probably test the new hoses for blockage by just running water through them

Make sure your tire pressures are up/equal.

Have an ASV PT50 bought brand new around 2009 or so. Dealer told me to keep the battery disconnected or it would drain. He was correct. Long story short, replaced the alternator about four years later, and the battery drainage problem disappeared.

Not silly at all - if it works, then it’s perfect.

Step one is really to pinpoint the source of the leak. Who knows - if you’re lucky, it may be just a loose connection or fitting.

Agree with the above re: checking for rodent chewed wire issues…. Assume you changed the air filter too?

I read his post that the asphalt is already there, not that he wants to put new asphalt down. Maybe I’m misunderstanding…….

I wouldn’t hesitate to do it; shouldn’t have any problems based on how you describe it. If the asphalt is been there awhile, that is probably better (more hardened and settled) than if it was relatively new. If it does settle after awhile, you can just drag it to another spot.

How much oil did you take out? I always try to measure what I drained before refilling just as a kind of reference/check.

Cook up some hamburger meat and some mashed potatoes (the current microwave kind works easy) and mash them all together. Tastes great- add a little gravy or just plain. Can keep it in the refrigerator and just heat it up in the microwave or in the toaster oven (to get a little crispy browning).

Try one of those Mr Clean Magic Eraser sponges. I’ve had success cleaning alot of stuff with it. Might work on this issue.

http://ymowners.com/phpbb/viewtopic.php?t=7918

You sure the gasket was on the new one that was leaking?

This thread may provide some insight https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/threads/kubota-b7800-i-want-a-front-snowblower-and-subframe-but-my-local-dealers-are-unsure-of-what-i-need.443559/

My general answer, for any type of machine, is that you never know. It’s best to order spares ahead of time and have them handy. Just label them so that if you don’t need them for a few years, you can identify them quickly. It costs mobey now, of course, but you’ll thanks yourself if/when...

I scrape under the deck clean, power wash everything, grease all zerks, top off fuel, and cover it loosely with a tarp. May want to keep your old air filter in there for the winter in case critters get in it and chew it up. I put a new filter in in the Spring.

Had a tachometer go wacky on me in my skid steer years ago; dealer said it was an indication of the alternator not working properly. New alternator, and the tach went back to normal.

As mentioned above, the track pattern is pretty much what you may want to focus on. My only experience is with tracked skidsteers, primarily in snow removal. I have a tracked ASV (Terex now) that has basically “ribs” as a track pattern vs the common large alternating block pattern on many...

One more suggestion- maybe check your fuses first in case it’s a simple blown fuse.

Sometimes it’s easier to do an internet search of the dimensions of your old battery, just because it may be unique and not in demand much (so probably not carried in stock at parts stores)

For what it’s worth, this is a picture of my system. The input from the well is to the right; the water softener system is to the left.

Even though the battery was new, I wonder if your alternator is bad and was not charging the battery, and both are now dead. I say this from personal experience……. So - check your battery voltage to make sure it has not died.

Everything in neutral or off so that no safety systems are preventing it from starting?

You’ll probably always having steering issues on packed snow/ice just becsuse there’s so little weight on the front. Even if you have a front snowblower, the blower is usually in float, so there’s not much yo push down on the tire. As the others have suggested above , chains on the front...

Just as an aside, I would not consider bad fuel to be “owner abuse” that would void a warranty. You could do all that you plan to do, then buy fuel somewhere that, as far as you know, is good, but turns out to be bad.

You know it’s the best time sell when you start questioning/wondering if you should sell ………..

https://www.ebay.com/itm/221268920968

It may not be the solution, but since you have a known weak battery, I’d start by putting a fully charged battery in there so that I know definitely that that is not the cause of the problem. Always best to start with the simple stuff.

If it were me, I’d put it up for sale. If there are still shortages, you may get a nice price. If we go into a recession, may be harder to sell (and tough to write a check each month).

He edited his initial post and says it was due to a missing bolt

If it were mine, I’d just wrap duct tape around it if there is enough plastic material left to do that. A new one would probably end up in the same situation, and they’d probably charge you an arm and a leg.

My simplistic initial thought is to check and make sure every in the steering areas is nice and tight - no loose or missing bolts, connections, etc.

I’m not a mechanic, but my homeowner experiences with tractors, skidsteers, zero turns, etc is that a sudden inability to start is most likely not caused by a dirty fuel filter. Was it running fine before the day you were not able to start it?

Actually, you should charge him rent - $1,000 per day. Then evict him as soon as he pays. If he doesn’t pay , file a simple small claims case. I would argue that his act if putting them on your property constitutes explicit consent on his part to whatever terms and conditions you choose to...

When you start it back up after it dies, does it then run ok, or does it keep dying after each restart?

My 15+ year old MF1540 throttle was acting the same; in that it would not idle all of the way down. I could idle it down with my finger in the engine compartment, so it was basically sticking. Sprayed it with electrical cleaner and then lubed it; works fine now.

You did not read my follow up post

Does it drop normally (quickly) if you put in float? Try it only a few feet off the ground.

Look on Craigslist for chains and binders - usually in the heavy equipment or farm machinery section.

Thought it was a retailer site; just click on “add to cart” and see if it lets you order.

This comes up in a google search…..not sure if it is what you are looking for though. https://avs.parts/deere/catalog/450-bulldozer-392112/560582/4244037/

6 qts https://www.tractordata.com/farm-tractors/000/7/4/746-massey-ferguson-165-engine.html

Take the good bolt out. If you can see to the ground through the hole that you just took the bolt out of, then that indicates you can access the bolt from underneath. If so, then just use pliers to grab the broken bolt from under to screw it in the rest of the way so that it falls out the...

Things break; may have been defective to begin with. Take the good bolt off and take it to the store to get a matching new one and you should be good to go.

I do have some weight on the tongue; it’s balanced well before I drive off. The hanging strap though is a quick visual indicator of where I am balance-wise as I’m driving stuff onto the trailer.

Not a very technical thing , but what I do to try to make sure that the trailer weight is distributed relatively accurately, before I load anything, I hang a strap from the from hitch so that it’s just touching the ground. After i load stuff on, I check the strap to make sure that it’s as...

Is there a bulb in them? If not, might just be a reflector.

Leave the cutter in the raised position, get it running, and see if it starts smoking around the length of time it usually starts smoking. If it does start smoking while in the raised position, then clearly the actual mowing is not the cause.

Just another thought - maybe install solar powered motion sensor spotlights up high in trees all along the edge of the driveway. As you drive by, they would light up for “x” amount of minutes. Would at least help guide you backing up (because you could see where the lights are, even though...

Think you need to identify specifically where the smoke/heat is coming from then focus on that. Maybe something just needs to be greased. Maybe bearings (?) are burning up. Was the cutter new or used when you git it?

It can be hard to see the clear fluid on a dipstick; what i do is press the dipstick against a paper towel to see where the level is. That being said, I don’t have a dipstick for my hydraulic fluid; just a siteglass in the rear about knee level. Hydraulic fluid also should not get darker as it...

Charge by the hour vs a flat fee. Has someone been mowing it in the past for compensation?

Glad you found/posted the solution. Curious why your battery voltage readings are so high though - 12.6v should be the max, I would assume. Doesn’t really matter, I guess.

I agree in general. There’s a guy on the local craigslist that buys up used tires and resells them. His prices are high though; for what he asks for most of them, you could buy new (with installation, balancing, etc as you said). I do come across good deals on Craigslist occasionally...

I’d try a different battery.

If you can leave it somewhere with the windows and everyooen for a few weeks (insude a garage or under a tarp), that should help eliminate most of the smell. Needs to dry out whatever died. Also give it a good dose of Lysol spray everywhere you can inside. It could even be that there...

Local mechanics shop charges me $25 per tire to remive, mount, and balance a tire. I try to used tires off of Craigslist- good deals pop up every now and then from people that bought a new car and can’t use their old winter tires (I’m in the northeast).

Exploding parts diagram here….if it’s the right one https://www.weingartz.com/assembly-diagram/john-deere-parts-lookup/model-f725-front-mower-54-inch-mower-deck-pc10374-weight-transfer-valve-hydraulics/4275-908-433315

My non-mechanical/old age wisdom suggestion/advice would be to not mess with anything until you get the loader on and see if there’s definitely something wrong with it.

Check fluid level

Maybe just cut a small piece of plywood in a shape to fit the area snugly where the wires are, drill a few holes in it to line up with some of the platform holes, and then just use heavy duty zip ties or bolts with washers through the platform holes and plywood holes to hold it up.

Clean the radiator and radiator screens. Those get clogged really quickly, especially in taller, dry grass. Brush hogging with a belly mower can also heat it up; best to do it with the mower raised up, and then slowly lower it in successive mows.

Not familiar with what the wiring looks like under it, but sometimes a simple fix with zip ties and/or duct tape is all you need to snug the wires out of harms way.

Show them that online Rim Guard calculator result, and ask them to show you the juice running out if the valve stem.

I use my differential lock in muddy areas when brush hogging. Have to hold down the lock with my heel (MF1540 hst). It can take awhile sometimes to both engage and disengage, which i only do while driving in a straight line. As suggested above, try driving straight forward or backward...

Are your tires aired up properly (ie: one isn’t low on air, causing the deck to be uneven)?

Agree with Dodgeman above- try a different battery just to rule that out. If you don’t have an extra battery, just take the one out of your vehicle temporarily.

Just wrap a plastic bag around the nozzle when not in use. That what I do with my funnels; keeps them clean, and the bugs/spiders out too.

Can’t tell you specifically, but if you find/spot the little speaker, you should be able to just unplug the wire going into it. That’s what I did on my skidsteer.

Same kind of situation with me - use a tracked skidsteer with a snowblower, almost always in the dark. The blowing snow from the blower itself causes visibility issues too. I didn’t try cameras because I figured it would take me too long to focus on the screen and figure out what I was...

https://www.messicks.com/part/97897-13000/l3130-l3430-l3830-l4330-l4630-l5030-service-m

My first thought was block heater too. Where does the other end of the cord go to? I had them as stock items in my 2006 and 2011 F350s, both gas engines. I think for the gas engines, they are only standard in certain regions (i’m in the northeast)

You are correct; she was wrong.

Check the hydraulic fluid level

Most States don’t issue title for tractors. You want a Bill of Sale signed by you and the seller. The Bill would state that the seller owns snd has the right to sell the property, and that it is free and clear of any liens, encumbrances, etc. You dhould be able to find examples online...

Quick google search shows alot of results; didn’t click any though, so maybe they are unavailable (that happens alot) . Try Messicks; they are pretty reliable.

Remove the fuel tank cap the next time it starts to stumble and see if that changes anything

Actually in my situation, breaking the bead was the simple part. The hard part was separating the rim from the tire (or tire off the rim, depending on how you look at it).

The stock dual beam led headlights that Ford started using in their F250 and F350 a few years ago are a blinding nightmare…..always looks to me like they have their hi beams on.

I had a 2006 F350 and a 2011 F350. Probably around 2017, I replaced the stock halogen headlight bulbs in both trucks with plug and play led bulbs. No issues at all. The led bulbs gave off a much whiter/clearer light - definitely an improvement, but it did not really extend the sight...

I attempted the same with worn out rear tires on my zero turn at the beginning of the summer. One had a small hole in the worn out tread and wouldn’t hold air; the other was close to doing the same. Looking at the youtube videos, thought it would be a piece of cake to do it myself, so I...

See if there is anything printed/stamped on them and then google it.

You don’t need a real breaker bar, just something that will fit over the wrench handle, and is long to give you leverage (4 to 5 feet is enough). A steel pipe, or something like that - look around your garage and see what’s laying around. I use this:

Maybe the guy that didn’t want to spend money on a new filter figured that the old one was still good since there was basically no oil running through it……

My vote/choice would be “(a)”. I wouldn’t think studs would work, because they wouldn’t dig in deep enough. If those bars you made did not work, then studs definitely will not do you any good.

How about the filters though? Have you ever changed those?

I use full synthetic oil; change at 10,000 miles. I do courier work and put 10,000 miles on each month. The label on the oil container even says 10,000. No issues. In the end, of course, change it at whatever interval you are comfortable with.

Yes - I had googled his plate/call sign and saw that he was from Clarence (pic was taken heading West around Victor). I thought it was interesting just because the antennas, I would think, would have been too fragile to drive around; obviously not though.

I was in your exact same situation about 15 years ago - had the same B7500 hst with a belly mower; my first tractor. Added on to my parcel though, and also wanted to finish mow about 5 acres now instead of 3, plus bush hog about 6 more. Too much for the Kubota. Bought a MF1540 hst...

Kind of an interesting “hauling” picture on the NYS Thruway today - based on his license plate, looks like a mobile ham radio set up. Either that or an Internet Explorer Maps car……(ha ha)

Guy’s rooftop cargo carrier popped open while driving……saw some clothing type items on the road then saw him pulled over about a tenth of a mile up. Always double check a secure load - no matter how small.

If he’s local, just buy him a $100 gift certificate at a local restaurant or store

Only have to heat it for a few seconds…..was surprised because I was concerned about the same thing. Can try it on one that is more hidden/not painted.

Best way to find parts suppliers is to google the part number(s) if you have any. Usually any suppliers that pop up in the search will have other parts for it too.

I used heat from one of those handheld propane torches (blue bottle) to melt old grease in zerks that were clogged. Read about doing that on here; works great.