Trailer loading plan..

[LD1]

Tongue Weight: The Key To Safe Towing

If you’re looking at towing a trailered boat this summer, you are going to need to learn a little bit about your tongue […]

www.legendboats.com

Watch the video in that link.

It's always a good illustration when dealing with tongue weight.

(Don't know how to imbed that video from my phone so if someone wants to. I know that same video has been shared several times on this forum)

 

[ptsg]

It depends on where you are. I towed an old gravity wagon 40 miles at 15 mph with my Subaru and saw about 4 other motorists. No concerns. When I haul my race car from Indiana to Birmingham AL, I use a 1-ton van and a real trailer with real tie downs and secure it for roll over. If your 25 miles includes interstates or highways, I'd find a friend with experience to double check your work. Even posting pictures, we can miss things, like attaching to something that should not be used as an attachment point.

I bet @ptsg never hits 80 mph with that trailer, like some of you will on US interstates.

Definitely not with a loaded trailer. I've done that with an empty trailer but I was on a rush that day.

Typically, speed limit for non toll roads is 55 MPH. Pulling a trailer, it drops to 43 MPH. I typically run between 45 to 60 MPH with a loaded trailer, only because the setup is stable and I feel comfortable with it.

 

[JDAOWNER]

ANY TIM A RUBBER TIRED LOAD IS HAULED, THE STRAPS OR CHAINS SHOULD BE AS CLOSE TO HORIZONTAL AS POSSIBLE. OVER THE FRONT AXIL AND OVER THE DRAW BAR.

 

[Mudfarmer]

I'd just get another bush hog and leave it permanently on the remote place. Not much chance it would disappear chained up to a stout tree with the drive line detached. Another thought: what size bush hog do you have? Why not load it in the back of the truck (presumably a pick-up) you're towing with?

 

[crashz]

I'll get a picture this weekend as I have a mowing job, but I have the same size tractor, a 5ft brush cutter and a 18ft trailer (16+2). I leave the cutter attached to the tractor and drive on the trailer, curling the loader bucket so that the cutting edge is pointed directly down. The bucket is placed on the deck and I have just enough room to fold up my ramps. The tailwheel sticks out about 12 inches, but that is the same as the legs of the ramps.

I bind the tractor with four 3/8" chains and binders to the front bracket (2) and draw bar in the rear (2). I use one 2" cross strap on the cutter and one on the loader bucket.

I think another poster suggested this, but swap the box blade with the cutter. You should be able to tuck that right in and strap everything down. I have plenty of tongue weight. Never measured, but it makes my F450 dump truck level out and tows nice. I don't have a box blade or grapple, but my trailer is a bit heavier (10k).

 

[Henniker]

Not a very technical thing , but what I do to try to make sure that the trailer weight is distributed relatively accurately, before I load anything, I hang a strap from the from hitch so that it’s just touching the ground.

After i load stuff on, I check the strap to make sure that it’s as close as possible to the same pre-loaded length (just touching the ground).

I don't own a trailer, but this seems like a good "down and dirty" trick to check trailer balance.

 

[Rowalker]

Hey folks—
I’m finally going to me moving the equipment on a regular basis…
New property is 25-30 miles down the road so I’ve bought a nice 16+2 trailer.
6k load rating for my L3400, did the math and it should be less than 5k with that I plan to move regularly..

But I do have a few thoughts I want to ask questions about…

The plan is to put the bushhog on the front 5 ft of the trailer- then raise the loader up, drive the tractor forward until the front tires hit the bushhog… and then lower the loader on some kind of wood base that will allow it to rest on top of the bushhog with a beam wider than the bushhog.

Does anyone do this?
I’ve vaguely remember seeing some setups like this on the road.. but now that I’m doing it I can’t seem to find those examples….


Thanks
Jim

You say 16+2. is it a 18ft Trailer. If it is 16' ,you are overloaded, if it is 18' you are probably ok

 

[JWR]

Not a very technical thing , but what I do to try to make sure that the trailer weight is distributed relatively accurately, before I load anything, I hang a strap from the from hitch so that it’s just touching the ground.

After i load stuff on, I check the strap to make sure that it’s as close as possible to the same pre-loaded length (just touching the ground).

Oh Dear ! That is bad advice. With all due respect, that is NOT the right thing to do. Yes, that ensures your weight is distributed evenly (not a valid goal for any reason I know of) and guarantees you lack enough tongue weight (which is an absolute requirement to avoid instability and fishtailing.) There are all sorts of rules of thumb (such and such % of the load weight being the tongue weight, etc.) but your hitch should be CLOSER the ground when properly loaded than it was empty. That is a direct measure of tongue weight which is essential.

 

[JWR]

I don't own a trailer, but this seems like a good "down and dirty" trick to check trailer balance.

No, it is a good way to prove you DO NOT HAVE ENOUGH TONGUE WEIGHT !!

 

[seville009]

Oh Dear ! That is bad advice. With all due respect, that is NOT the right thing to do. Yes, that ensures your weight is distributed evenly (not a valid goal for any reason I know of) and guarantees you lack enough tongue weight (which is an absolute requirement to avoid instability and fishtailing.) There are all sorts of rules of thumb (such and such % of the load weight being the tongue weight, etc.) but your hitch should be CLOSER the ground when properly loaded than it was empty. That is a direct measure of tongue weight which is essential.

You did not read my follow up post

 

[sandman2234]

I am a professional driver (which doesn't mean squat!!). However, the "over 4 million miles" behind the steering wheel in a rig does...as it means I have seen a lot of you folks in ditches, in wrecks or with blown tires sitting on the shoulder. I have even stopped to help a few, before electronic logs became an issue. Plus in my spare time I have been known to haul a thing or two.
SOME OF YOU SCARE ME WITH YOUR SUGGESTIONS!!!
When did the length of a trailer determine its capacity?
When did straps properly installed become our worst enemy?
When did loaded tires change a trailer capacity rating?
My thoughts...NEVER buy a trailer to load it anywhere close to its rated capacity, As many people learn, tires supplied with new trailers are not rated high enough to be able to handle max loads after several years. (I just replaced 4 on a 5 year old trailer that only had 1000 miles on them. I went up to the highest weight rating I could get on that size tire (which was not enough in my thoughts!) I knew I was going to be close to max weight for 350 miles and didn't have time for blowouts!
Keep a close eye on your tire pressures, it matters!
David from jax

 

[LD1]

I am a professional driver (which doesn't mean squat!!). However, the "over 4 million miles" behind the steering wheel in a rig does...as it means I have seen a lot of you folks in ditches, in wrecks or with blown tires sitting on the shoulder. I have even stopped to help a few, before electronic logs became an issue. Plus in my spare time I have been known to haul a thing or two.
SOME OF YOU SCARE ME WITH YOUR SUGGESTIONS!!!
When did the length of a trailer determine its capacity?
When did straps properly installed become our worst enemy?
When did loaded tires change a trailer capacity rating?
My thoughts...NEVER buy a trailer to load it anywhere close to its rated capacity, As many people learn, tires supplied with new trailers are not rated high enough to be able to handle max loads after several years. (I just replaced 4 on a 5 year old trailer that only had 1000 miles on them. I went up to the highest weight rating I could get on that size tire (which was not enough in my thoughts!) I knew I was going to be close to max weight for 350 miles and didn't have time for blowouts!
Keep a close eye on your tire pressures, it matters!
David from jax

Mostly good advice.

I too don't understand the length effecting the weight rating of the trailer. Payload capacity less....maybe. assuming trailer is of similar build longer is heavier.

Also don't understand the haste against straps. Straps and chains are BOTH rated for a certain weight. And you can size appropriately for either, or undersize for either. I'd rather have an appropriately rated strap vs undersized chain. And the law would also agree.

The notion of loaded tires I mention. No it doesn't change a trailers rating.....but loaded tractor tires is more payload.

The OP mentioned a L3400 with loader, bushhog, and box blade.....AND loaded tires.....and making a big assumption that all of that is under 5k pounds and has a trailer with a 6k payload.

The bare tractor is 2600, the loader is 895, the bucket is 260. If the tires are r4 and filled with rimguard, that's 310 per tire.

So we are now at 4375 pounds.

A rotary cutter can be anywhere from 600-1000 pounds. And a box blade can be 500+.

Not knowing the weight of the bushhog and box blade.....I think the OP is ALOT closer to his 6000lb capacity than he realizes. And on such a small trailer....no room to adjust load for balance. Not a good combo of you ask me.

If I had to haul a 5500-6000# load regularly, I'd want a trailer that I wouldn't be maxing out on

 

[LD1]

And every since I have replied to this thread, I am getting ads on FB for weight safe hitches

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[sandman2234]

And every since I have replied to this thread, I am getting ads on FB for weight safe...

You ought to Google something and then go check your F/B page! You will have ads about whatever you searched for!
David from jax

 

[sandman2234]

Mostly good advice.

I too don't understand the length effecting the weight rating of the trailer. Payload capacity less....maybe. assuming trailer is of similar build longer is heavier.

Also don't understand the haste against straps. Straps and chains are BOTH rated for a certain weight. And you can size appropriately for either, or undersize for either. I'd rather have an appropriately rated strap vs undersized chain. And the law would also agree.

The notion of loaded tires I mention. No it doesn't change a trailers rating.....but loaded tractor tires is more payload.

The OP mentioned a L3400 with loader, bushhog, and box blade.....AND loaded tires.....and making a big assumption that all of that is under 5k pounds and has a trailer with a 6k payload.

The bare tractor is 2600, the loader is 895, the bucket is 260. If the tires are r4 and filled with rimguard, that's 310 per tire.

So we are now at 4375 pounds.

A rotary cutter can be anywhere from 600-1000 pounds. And a box blade can be 500+.

Not knowing the weight of the bushhog and box blade.....I think the OP is ALOT closer to his 6000lb capacity than he realizes. And on such a small trailer....no room to adjust load for balance. Not a good combo of you ask me.

If I had to haul a 5500-6000# load regularly, I'd want a trailer that I wouldn't be maxing out on

I am definitely in agreement that the O/P is pushing his luck, and maybe even safety! His having space issues for parking and restrictions for hauling the load do not mean he can safely do it with less than is required.
One way to fix this issue would be to add a third axle with brakes to the short trailer, but seldom do people think this way, because it takes horsepower to turn 3 axles and the wear on tires during a turn is huge. However, extra expense to haul too much is going to be paid somehow, either in extra trips or loss of safety. Overloaded tires get a relief with a 3rd axle, brakes work better with less heat buildup, load distribution is easier to figure with more weight being able to be put further towards the re a r of the trailer.
And yet nobody suggests this...why?
David from jax

 

[JWR]

You did not read my follow up post

If you mean post #18, that did not clarify nor rescind the very bad advice. You said you "have some tongue weight" and use the straps to make sure things are well balanced. Whatever you may be using the cloth strap for, if it just touches the ground before loading, as you said, then it needs to be bent onto the ground and showing a few inches of drop of the rear of the truck/hitch once you are loaded. Otherwise you do not have an adequate amount of tongue weight. "Correct" and best tongue weight is intentional imbalance, not balance. As another poster said quite well, needs to be by about 10 to 15% of the load which is the amount of imbalance.

 

[Jchonline]

Yes. The dealer for the trailer and I are good friends… we talked at length and then measured and I think this will work…

With the bush hog sitting all the way forward, and the tractor driven up on the trailer so the loader is OVER the bushhog, with the loader down resting on a platform over the bushhog, the rear tires of the tractor will be between the axles on the trailer.. actually leaving about 2 ft to the ramps…

Are your rear tires loaded?

Do you have a spec sheet on the trailer?

 

[dullpain]

4 meters or 13 ft.

Hooey on all you naysayers / safety police
what radar tech and ptsg suggest are perfectly safe with attention given to load distribution

 

[sandman2234]

Hooey on all you naysayers / safety police
what radar tech and ptsg suggest are perfectly safe with attention given to load distribution

I am glad you think so...
O/P suggested load was about 80% of rated capacity of trailer, with an extremely small allowable room for adjustment of his weight should the trailer have a tendency to be rear heavy.
There are several factors that are not available to anyone except the O/P which would make enough difference, but his post suggested he was looking for our opinions, which is what we gave. Have you ever blown a rear tire on a short, heavily laden dual axle trailer? When the front axle becomes the only weight bearing axle, and it was already at 80% of max, there is likely to be a huge problem if he is moving over 40-50mph.
Just my opinion, as was yours.
David from jax

 

[Tractorable]

I’ve read enough of y’all’s comments over the years that I bought a 24ft 14K equipment trailer to haul my 3200lb vehicle. Overkill, but it’ll cover the bases for all my potential future hauling needs.