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Catty1 check your messages

Mann+Hummel bought WIX's parent company way back in 2016

Too new for my collection, I’d venture a guess that the printing company Deere uses is running with limited production and fewer employees than normal. I do know that back when I was still working at a dealer, we lost all control of a manual order after it was placed, no updates or anything else...

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Matt, check your messages

if you go here - click here put 5425 in the search terms, click operators manuals on the left side under "publication group" it will come up and on the right side will be a place to click to download

click for pictures

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looks like a lot of crap and AC stuff could be in the way in the way

parts - RC mower parts sent you a message with my email, I have a PDF of the RC2060 owner you are welcome to

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they are molded plastic, not decals they show to be about $20 each at Deere M91087 Quadrant plate Speed (HIGH-NEUTRAL-LOW) M91088 Quadrant plate PTO (MID-BOTH-REAR)

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C40XXX - 3400 Diesel utility 1965-1975 as stated the 9L13B - Nov 13,1969 "B" shift build date the C255XXX serial number also falls in the year 1969

Heat up the area with a propane torch or heat gun, then as it softens pump in new good grease until all the old grease is out

on the way

on the way

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I have a PDF of the tech manual, if wanted message me your email and it's on the way- from the manual -

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Amvcane, if it would help, I have a PDF of the 2030a technical manual that you're welcome to, if wanted, message me your email and it's on the way Joe

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David, I just turn the dish until I can see the nut through the top of the mower and just turn the nut bright red and then lay to it with the impact, it’s rare that I have to go ahead and just blow the nut off

I just don’t care for the bow tie, if you’re mowing with any speed, I just don’t think it’s gonna deal with a stump like the round one will, may be wrong! I spray my blade bolts, give them one good try with the gun, then it’s torch them red and they come right off, I do replace mine every time...

got it

Sounds like it has the later years cylinders on it, parts book shows the later ones to have .787 dia. rods. (They call them 20mm) I’ve been away from Ford since 1998, so I’ve forgotten some stuff, I thought they made the rods black instead of chrome when they went larger. Looking at the Messicks...

and bush hog turning, took me about a minute or so to get situated in the seat enough to reach the fuel shut off. Someone was watching out for me, only damages were 1 fender, the lights on that side and my shorts, I'm in my 60's now, still can remember it like it was yesterday.

I'm sorry, but if you've managed to end up in a situation where you think this might be of some use, you need to be looking at what's going on, not a gauge, even for a second. I rolled my dads MF-135 as a teenager when I dropped a down hill rear tire in an old well that was covered with brush...

per the John Deere Parts site, your tractor is a 2004, so any manual dated that or later should have the correct info in it 4210 (Hydrostatic Transmission) 2002 Model (Serial No. LV4210H120001-220000) 2003 Model (Serial No. LV4210H220001-320000) 2004 Model (Serial No. LV4210H320001-999999)

You may find there is a notch worn in the pin from friction making it hard to beat out. I have had to saw both sides of the pin out before to get everything out of the way, then I can beat the remaining piece of pin out with everything out of the way

A good hydraulic shop should be able to match up the spool o-rings, Spools are almost never sold alone. If you need a spool, you need a valve, as the mating surface on the housing will be bad too

Most Kubota shafts have a master spline to prevent that, my bet is the shafts have worn where they slide into each other allowing the shaft to shake. I had a F-2000 and it did that too. Grasp the shaft in the middle and see how much it gives up and down

Sure, one day the software will be available for you to purchase, wait to you see the price and copyrights they put on it to keep it out of your hands

I've never seen a spindle that couldn't be done, most use common bearings, cups, and seals that you should be able to source locally

see if this helps

I found this just surfing around, maybe it will help (#16 is key switch)

Looks like the bucket leveling / return to dig linkage

Glad she’s up and working! Feels so good to fix it yourself!

southernboy, check your private messages

error code #57-

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looks like just a key, and maybe a tapered shaft parts page

I used to lose a lot of them mowing, started using large “R” pins pushed all the way through so they’re just hanging, haven’t lost one since

855 does not really have a thermo-start, as posted above it has a heating grid to pre-heat intake air. It is mounted to the top of the throat of the intake, it is controlled by a module that reads the outside air temperature and it decides if heating is needed

septemberwheat, I have PDF's of the TM2048, TM2049, and the CTM104 engine manuals, if wanted shoot me your email Joe

Kinda looks like a centering piece for the outer shield, you might see if the epoxy softens with a little heat so you can slide it up above the cut, or just do without it

After looking back through the parts manual at JDParts, it shows a second starter that doesn't have the onboard solenoid, but doesn't say which engine it fits(and manual covers the 130 also) so I guess some might have it.

A 160 would have the round solenoid mounted on the starter, if you’re getting intermittent starting with just clicks a lot of the time google “ HD Switch Starter Relay Kit Replaces John Deere AM107421 - OEM Upgrade - w/Water Tight Connector Upgrade” Almost always clears this long happening...

Sent

if you take the Ford numbers and drop the "BU" in the beginning of the parts numbers for the seal, you will have the Bush hog part numbers. looks as if there were two different gearboxes used, if you look at these links it's easy to tell which you have- Gearbox #1 - New Holland 905-SERIES -...

You got to have the key in, yes they have a very basic differential in them or you couldn’t turn

If I remember correctly, engaged is the default position, power turns off 4WD

https://www.agwheelexpress.com/store/partsfilter/v14/mk0/md0/s1/

Glad to, just message me your email and it’s on the way Joe

Low voltage allowing clutch to drop out, or pto clutch itself is failing

pretty straight forward repair, for ease of access, I'd pull the hood and radiator, then you can see everything and get those gasket contact surfaces clean. Pay attention to the bolt lengths and which hole they came out of, there are two different ones and also one nut and stud too. Good time to...

Try this, great folks to deal with! https://www.messicks.com/nh/134005

Basically it was to show what version/option of the mower it is, from what JDParts shows it seems to mean it came w/o the bagger, and only was a side discharge Example: GXJS63D010001 GX- Factory Designation (Greeneville Works) JS63- Model Or Machine Designation JS63 21-Inch Walk-Behind Mower...

on the way

I used female bullet connectors on mine, had to slightly enlarge them with a little Phillips screwdriver to work them on

It’s never fun when they rust! My last one I had to hook to the winch on my trailer and keep hammering on it as I kept tension on it with the cable. I try to store my shafts up with a cut out milk jug or 1 pound coffee container over the end to keep rain out

correct, they show two pins for it, I have to agree with it's to lock the bucket, not sure why, maybe to keep the curl cylinder from leaking down when loader is off?

JDParts shows the tube only on the first booms, all subsequent replacements don't show them

Raise and lock your loader, remove the grill, look under the tank next to the neck, should be a drain plug to empty the tank, you’ll need a long funnel and a couple of empty 5 gallon buckets. Then remove the flat plate on the top of the tank, filter Assy is under there. Wiggle and pull up on the...

Go find a cheap one of these and have a local welder weld it to the front of the box or underneath

sounds like you're looking at the low serial number 850 & 950 diagram, my 1050 diagram doesn't show a "starter bypass" mine shows one black/white wire to the neutral switch then to starter, and the other going to the "temp lamp test relay"

this is what you're after I believe - (item #13). T14243 is the origonal number, but it subs to T143245

Poor drawing at Deere, but they are item#13 in drawing

click for pictures - 218 GOTO Gray TN Slideshow by Joecdeere | Photobucket

This was my first pull with my Allis Cane tractor to our local show Saturday. A little over 7,000 of tractor and 3,500 of trailer, my 15 year old truck pulled and stopped it well, but this load will only go to very local shows. With my other tractors it has been a BIG improvement over my bumper...

Went to this show up in Sweetwater,TN yesterday, nice location, nice tractors and equipment click the link below for pictures Image hosting, free photo sharing & video sharing at Photobucket

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I work for a Deere Golf & Turf Dealer and got to see a 110 early this spring, it is set on what would be about a 4700 . There is no crab or 4 wheel steer at this time. I'll look around and see if I still have the flyer, and post it here. This is off the dealer only site.... 1 March 2002...