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100% normal operation

Hoses can last 1 day or 1 decade, there is no 'time' to change them. If they leak or blow-then you change them.

Click the "Forums" word in the header, then scroll to find it:

No. I'm betting bad piston seals as mentioned above. Rebuilt both cylinders, replace the broken shear pins, then tractor on (y)

That looks great, but it sure is close to the window! I'd worry about pressure on it when sitting in the seat.

LOL...this thread is from 2010, that reply was from 2015, and @Jav1948 was least here May 10, 2018

I've seen a few custom builds, but no 'kit' for them. https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/threads/automating-the-quick-attach-ssqa.461809/

OTT is not owned or operated by VS (Vertical Scope).

Have you priced PTO pumps? And a tank work filtration? And the extra fab work?

Back on topic for Mr. @MAINLYTRACTOR , Did you get any of the tractor side attaching parts? If not, they are available through JD but at a substantial cost., then you will also need the Power Beyond option, I think it's about $500 now. Here is the direct link the kit...

No problem at all. The system will go into relief while the implement is lowering, but that won't cause any issues.

Awesome... That got my wheels turning... :unsure::unsure::unsure::unsure:

Here's a few pics that customer have sent me, they bought ours after seeing them

Plated, not galvanized, but yes.

Hey its the best the Chinese kid could do, give him a break! Want great looking welds, and made in the USA? Give us a look please.

I also have the smaller 12" one, mine too leaks a bit on the shelf-I've heard they all do. With the larger batteries and a sharp chain, they are very capable cutting machines.

There has been lots of bad press the last few years on TR, search diligently.

Thanks! I'm ordering more in this week. To tell the truth, I sort of forgot about them and forgot to order more.

KBOH / BoltOnHooks LLC has added a few new Hydraulic Flow Restrictors to our lineup. Some are custom made and not available from other sources. Flow Restrictors are perfect for hydraulic top and side links as well as any other hydraulic cylinder to help slow them down and gain more precise...

Can't help with the real-estate issue, but I have a question about the diverter for the power SSQA, isn't using a manual one self defeating? Won't you have to get off the tractor to switch it?

Do you know the weight? How much is it? Those answers will tell whether its worth all the work to adapt it and get a 3rd function plumbed.

We still have it online: https://www.boltonhooks.com/proof-testing/

Good luck in your quest! As you found, loaders are VERY hard to find, especially with the correct hardware. You might consider an aftermarket one, but they will run close to $5K. As I recall the 300CX would fit too, but again you'd need the correct mounting hardware. PS: Turn the CAPS LOCK...

That's true on the smaller buckets too, but not the entire back wall as your post read.

I do! I just wish people would remember when they shop too.

Thanks! And ours are Made in the USA, you can bet the Amazon stuff is from you-know-where. Wow...no wonder US manufacturing is hurting.

Not quite true...

Thanks @Slowpoke Slim ! We appreciate the business! ————————————- As an FYI, we are adding some new restrictors to our product line, all .031 -06 JIC inline -06 ORB to -06 JIC in straight, 45, and 90 configurations 3/8 BSPP to -06 JIC Hope to have them on the website in the next week or so.

I tried the Magicc years ago when TSC switched over to it from Valspar. It was absolute crap.

That only happened recently, when BB starting selling tractors they were indeed solely Branson.

Check the 'manifold' , #3 in this drawing. Its a common point of failure as they get old and brittle, it allows air to be sucked into the system. https://partscatalog.deere.com/jdrc/sidebyside/equipment/78498/referrer/navigation/pgId/83557809

Yup. Rebranded.

Another good source for cylinders: https://www.magisterhyd.com/ https://www.baileyhydraulics.com/

TTWT ( @Tractor Time with Tim ) has many videos on these, JD let him have one for awhile: https://www.youtube.com/@TractorTimewithTim/search?query=4075

Yes...sort of. Pioneer is a brand name, just like Kleenex is to tissues. So many people say 'pioneer' style...but what they technically are is ISO 5675 'AG' style w/poppest like Brian mentioned. Many companies make them, Faster, Safeway, Stucchi, Pioneer/Parker, etc.

It is too thick, and not very flexible-especially on a smaller machine with less real estate, and it's more expensive. Small TnT cylinders do not require a lot of flow either, so there is no advantage to larger hoses.

1/4 or 3/8, no way 1/2.

All the imported ones are pretty much made in the sane factory in you-know-where.

Well then you better tell Kano Labs they spell it wrong too :ROFLMAO: https://www.kroil.com/

Kroil?

Fluid Film and PB Blaster for me, I hear great things about Kriol, but it's not available around here-at if it is I've never seen it.

MFWD sensor, yes. As stated above, never heard of that before.

There was some issues, like bellhousings cracking from loose loader mounting bolts-arguably that can be said was the owners fault or not checking them routinely. The MFWD sensor issue plagued many of the 4x10 series (the 110TLD was based on a 4610 or 4710 chassis). But, overall, they were solid...

The MFWD sensor was an issue on the 4x10 machines, which the 110TLD was based on, strange things happen when it fails. Never heard of a ground speed sensor. Some past threads: https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/search/4487723/?q=mfwd+sensor&t=post&o=date The price on then sure has gone...

We happened into one in TN off of 40E last year coming back from Sturgis. Just ridiculously big, and crazy busy. I'll avoid them in the future if at all possible.

Yes, but these models never really had that issue. I'd suspect the piston seals in the cylinders are bad, not an uncommon issue with them.

AND is 100% made in the USA ;)

Please...don't buy tractor parts on Amazon! We sell them, made in the USA too, and less than $50.

It's just a level indicator, it does not "bring the loader back to level" on its own. the are pretty standard across most brands and models.

Most everything from Vevor is. Seems they take the worst stuff from various factories, slap their label on it, and sell it CHEAP to US citizens looking for a 'great' deal. I swear they are an arm of the CCG.

You cannot tee PB lines...all valves need to be added in series. Fluid, like electricity, will "take the path of least resistance", so if you tee or parallel a new valve in, when it commands work the fluid will just go back to the tank through the other one.

Adapting the return to the oil plug is best, but yeah, wow, not sure a sub-compact BX24 is the correct machine for the job.

How many threads on gear vs. hydro? R1's vs. R4's? Kub vs JD? Chains vs. straps? If nobody asked question or posted new threads, it'd get boring around here pretty quickly.

Yes, everyone should have hooks! And USA Made ones to boot! (Hint, those are NOT on Amazon).

Can you work a deal with her to buy/use his shaper and tooling if it's still available? There are companies that will custom grind bits, usually for shapers though, and it probably won't be cheap especially if you want carbide.

1/4" or 3/8", never 1/2".

This kit is live on the website! This right hand door kit from BoltOnHooks LLC / KBOH adds a gas spring/gas cylinder to the right hand door of the John Deere 3×20 / 4×20 and 3R / 4R Series Cabbed Tractors. Made of the finest materials available, this kit will last the lifetime of the machine...

Another vote for the VFD route.

We are assembling some kits today, still working on instructions, pictures, website updates, and hopefully an installation video.

Source?

They are for the optional hardened cutting edge JD sells.

No firm date, but all testing has been completed and we are ordering a large run of parts from our laser cutter.

It may...but with custom made mounts. But, as it was intended for the older machines, there are no mounts available form JD for the newer 3x20 series.

Try this number M154605:

What he posted was hose ends that get crimped onto hoses, not adapter fittings.

^^^^ THIS. If you don't want to use crimped 90's (I try not to because of "clocking" issues and hose memory), you can use 90* JIC fittings and then straight JIC fittings on your hoses...

Our 3x20/4x20 and 3R/4R right side cab door kit is nearing it's final development stage, we hope to go into production very soon! Are you tired of the door hitting you in the A$$ when reaching in the cab to make a joystick or rockshaft adjustment? This kit will solve that!

The big advantage of FF couplers is that they are easier to clean, and drip less when disconnecting. They are much more expensive, and still subject to pressure problems like AG style couplers.

I say convert everything to one or the other and be done, otherwise you will have short jumper hoses or connectors connected together with short nipples to make up the adapters. More chance for leaks, more weight, more bulk, and probably more money.

OBD(2) is a federal standard for automobiles sold in the United States, any other equipment will most likely be proprietary to the manufacturer.

I knew this would turn into a JD bashing thread 😆

See if this search link works: https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/search/3629829/?q=diode&t=post&c[child_nodes]=1&c[nodes][0]=19&o=date There is a diode that fails on these that can cause this issue.

This. JD has been using these on the loaders for 20+ years. Backhoes and other options still have traditional chrome.

No other codes flashing? The MFWD hall effect sensor is well know for failing on these, but there are usually codes too.

Proper storage. Clean, dry place... There are little pads/wipers you can install on the machine, but they are only going to clean so much...

That too happens all the time...Its really funny when its a 5 year old thread too :LOL:

It's been like this on forums since the CompuServe days...and will be to till the end of time. Think it's bad here? Don't look on the FakeBook groups :ROFLMAO:

@panampefa , this just proves my point that every situation and bucket can be different, the user/customer has to be an informed one to make the best decision for his machine. Many of the Kioti buckets have a double walled top, with the two "walls" or surfaces being on two different planes...

Officially, that is correct, but some bucket designs can support them. The customer/user has to make that determination with all the info provided.

Cabbed...It has a factory cab. It does seem a little high to me also.

If you get the JD TractorPlus app on your phone you can search fault codes.

Have you checked your reservoir when that thing is up that high? That cylinder has a lot of fluid in it!

I've never heard of it referred to as a "bypass" option, but rather a "diverter". If you use that term to do some searching, you'll find lots of info on them, maybe not directly about your particular machine, but the operation and hookup theory is all the same.

You want to replace then just because they are 22 years old? Are they leaking?

RIP Roy, we've had many interactions over the year. Prayers to the family.

Something a bit "sexier": https://www.boltonhooks.com/rops-clamp-and-square-tube-clamps/

I have used the JD dye on a few machines, it really does work quite well.

Thanks Gene, I do try to help when I can.

USA made ones...Support small business and not Bezos and China: https://www.boltonhooks.com/

Nice job!

Three hooks are great to have, gives you options.

Just an FYI for anyone else looking, we sell 1/4, 3/8, and 1/2" NPT fixed restrictors on our website. https://www.boltonhooks.com/hydraulic-parts/

I'd think it would be fine.

His sig says is an '04...doubt it would be under any warranty.

WD40 is great to clean QD's, not good more much else :ROFLMAO: Brake cleaner is pretty harsh IMHO.

There is a lot of moving parts and pieces, I would inspect and lubricate as suggested above. https://partscatalog.deere.com/jdrc/sidebyside/equipment/83985/referrer/navigation/pgId/8606953

That does not sound normal, cab or open station?

We have some excellent ones, they stay put! https://www.boltonhooks.com/hydraulic-parts/ https://www.boltonhooks.com/product/female-protective-caps/ https://www.boltonhooks.com/product/male-protective-plugs/

He has not been on the forum for 2 years: https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/members/ronmar.19376/

What tractor is this? 300CX is the loaders model number, not the tractor.

The is an "eHydro" machine, and if there are no PTO's running you can get off the seat with the engine running and selector in gear without bypassing anything. JD has a way to run the rear PTO off-seat, the procedure is in the owners manual. The get off the machine with the mid-PTO running...

I appreciated the mention, and while your idea certainly has some merit I don't see an easy way to make them universal, there are a lot of different shaped buckets out there. If one needs forks, and I'd argue everyone does, then time/money is better spent on a true QA system to attach them (and...

Those are not the style JD uses, so they where added by a previous owner. You have to see where the wiring goes to determine what they are for.

With the way that pin retainer bent, I think you have some other issue going on too.

Very good Troy. any pics you can post documenting the processes of repairing would be appreciated by many!

Very well written, I agree 100% (y)

Yes these are definitely diverter spools. If you work carefully, you can get them unstuck, sometimes you have to very carefully polish the spools too if they are corroded. Pro tip for ANY electric/hydraulic valve, diverter, whatever...Operate it frequently! Even if you have nothing connected...

There is absolutely NO WAY you can state that, he will have attach everything and measure for himself to be 100% sure. Getting it wrong can cost lots of many and leave a damaged tractor.

Is the center core stuck? Often you can get them moving again.

On SOME machines, like the JD 1025R and maybe this TYM, the valve (usually called ROD or rate of drop valve) will stop the 3PH from raising it if is closed. I was a disbeliever too, but was proven wrong.

Air can get pushed past the seals whereas fluid cannot. Do you think dealers or the factory bleeds loaders when they install them?

Hydraulic systems are self-purging, there is no need to "bleed" the system.

Diverters are generally easier to install on most machines since it stays on the loader and only an electrical connection goes between the loader and tractor. Both diverters and a true 3rd function will work great for grapple use. I believe there is a OEM 3rd function option for your L2501, if...

The "T" or "OUT" line also usually carries the "waste" oil from the work ports back to the tank, yes it needs to be connected. Quite often there is a port somewhere you add a fitting to rather than cutting into an existing line.

Yup, as @ptsg wrote, hook it up and operate it-the air will purge.

This video should help:

Can you post pictures of the bucket? We may have a Bolt-On solution, of corse we sell lots of Weld-On stuff too.

Yup...both are in TN adding the confusion.

Smart move on their part, should have done it many years ago.

I had a customer share this picture with me:

Seen lots of posts about the same issue in the FB groups, maybe on GTT too. I think I read that they are backordered from JD, so getting it repaired may be best.

I did the air thing once, never again LOL. Luckily to was just a small cylinder. But, can't you just jack up the tractor and move the wheels to get the linkage to line up with the piston?

Not true in my book...

You can add an inline restrictor to slow the speed down, you can even make your own depending on what fittings and tools you have.

A better description of the issue would help. Float is a function of the loader (joystick) valve, you push the joystick forwards (or up depending on how it's mounted) and when it stops, you sharply push it a little further till it "pops" into the float detent. You can try lubricating the...

That's just ridiculous.

Newer cast pipe fittings from places like Home Cheapot are rated for like 300PSI, not even the 1000 you stated. No way should they be used in hydraulic service.

Why thanks! They are even better now LOL. With our now forged in the USA hooks and zinc plating! Don't buy CHINA copies, buy the originals that are STILL made in the USA!! Thanks RJ, You're welcome anytime.

EA is well know for very high quality attachments, and we sell a lot of hooks for them (they are pre-drilled for ours), so there are a lot of them out there. I can't imagine you'd be disappointed with that choice.

But we sell Made in the USA ones for about the same price, ready to weld...and no grinding required.

Spicy Brown.

@Coloradokid , As mentioned several times, the 3PH on your tractor does not have "down pressure", but can you describe your issue differently in case we are not under standing?

LOL, a pet-peeve of mine too, especially after 32+ years in the telecom business!

Yup, we have the smallest ones available, and all made in the USA (y)

This is made by WOODS, they have a great reputation for quality implemnts: https://woodsequipment.com/products/seeders/compact-super-seeders/css60/

I'm assuming he used that as a general term, and what he really means is "swagelock" style fittings, they are made for high pressure use. https://www.hydraulicstore.com/hydraulic/steel-tubing-fittings-tooling/flareless-bite-type-fittings

A 3/8" hose can bend pretty tightly.

Probably a good choice, hardlines for a one-time project rarely makes sense.

Correct. When the valve is in neutral, the PRV is not a factor.

Just saying "Pioneer" is not always helpful, it's just a brand name like Kleenex or Zerox is, so it often gets used for different style couplers.

5765 and 7241 are NEVER "interchangeable". That is BS. 7241 A and B are not either, they have different dimensions. The ball or poppet is does not make it one or the other...a 5675 can have either. Do NOT focus on the ball/poppet when looking at the Summit chart (or any others). I've not...

KBOH now has custom warning stickers for your ride! High quality 3.5″ wide by 2.5″ high sticker, weather resistant vinyl. Now available in four colors, Green, Orange, Blue and Red https://www.boltonhooks.com/product/danger-stickers/

Nicely done!

Thanks @tacticalturnip , I think anyway 🤣

https://www.google.com/search?q=backwards+tractor&sxsrf=APq-WBuOSMakLsHl3z2v30LLFPkj4ca0Rw:1649890119465&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwjzuvTTj5L3AhUbVTABHQYmA00Q_AUoAnoECAEQBA&biw=1958&bih=1077&dpr=1.75 There is even a production model made today, we saw them at the Empire Farm Days...

I see all the theory, and I fully understand it...but there are a LOT of people who've had major leak down issues and found bad piston seals and corrected the issue with replacing them. Tha's the part I'm hung up on...theory vs. real world.

But, put two cylinder in parallel as they are usually plumbed on the loader, what happens then?

Yes, that's how it's done. It usually is the seals vs the valve. Here is another way to do it, but it's really overkill.

Looks good Rick (y) We sell the Clevis' without the hardware fo just that reason should you want to add them later.

Try some fluid film on them...mine where rough a squeaky when I bought my used 3720, it made all the difference.

I've never heard of these springs going bad or being an issue. One concern with messing with the pedals is you may have to do a calibration on the system afterwards, and that can be a real PITA. @joecdeere has some tech manuals, many it's detailed in there.

I would lubricate everything well with Fluid Film, including in the detent cap. Oh, and no need to YELL AT US ;) :ROFLMAO:

There are a few post son the GTT forum about adding t hem to the older 2520's and 4110's, welding was required though, you might search there for some ideas.

The new grip mounts with two bolts, so you'd have to at a minimum drill those holes. I am not sure if the diameter is the same either.

https://www.kubotausa.com/media-center/2016/05/13/kubota-corporation-expands-long-time-partnership-with-land-pride-and-enters-into-an-agreement-to-purchase-great-plains-manufacturing-inc-

HST reliability is a non-issue. Since you want this for grapple/FEL use, HST is a no-brainer for me.

This, right there. Pulling with the loader is also trying to pull the loader off of the tractor, not what it's designed for at all.

Please consider our forged in the USA grade 70 weld on hooks, they are the only ones forged here in the states, and they are very competitively priced too.

By "bucket assembly" do you mean the entire front end loader? Or just a bucket that fits your 419 loader?

The 2520 CUT has an open center system. Yes, it will be in relief while the trailer is lowering, but that won't hurt anything.

Yes.

How can violate the warranty by bringing it up to the specs?

Thanks @Rodidi!

No, it does not go bad.

You'll get more search results with "clamp on forks" as they are commonly called.

100% fake news there.

His argument against hooks apply to just about every FEL use 🤣 The front axle load is easily addressed with proper rear ballast on the 3PH, which he doesn’t mention at all.

I've done two sets of R4's, somewhat easy to do with the Ideal Tire Groover, makes an incredible difference in traction...

^^^^ THIS.

$380 for an OEM 3rd SCV kit on a ~20 year old tractor is good deal IMHO.

Welcome to TBN K-J

Oh, Here are all that parts that make up the handle, the prices are NOT current though:

We do have a few ready to sell, but they ar pricey since the JD switch pod we modify keeps going up in price. The switches in the handle are only good for 1/10th of an amp, so the use of relays is required.

Also read this thread, pretty much the same setup you have: https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/threads/completed-the-hard-part-of-homemade-3rd-scv-remotes-install.389169/

You already have a 3rd valve on the valve block that runs the loader, you just don't have the lever/hardlines/hardware to use it. The kit's where about $250 or so but they are hard to find now. https://partscatalog.deere.com/jdrc/sidebyside/equipment/64355/referrer/navigation/pgId/2654828

We sell a lot of those, we call them small chain shorteners: https://www.boltonhooks.com/product/small-chain-shortener/

You can get the China made Titans for a whole lot less than 1200.

THis is one of the threads I was think of, but no specific info that I seem to remember seeing...still searching as time allows. https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/threads/jd4720-cab-no-air-heat-r-coming-from-left-side-cab-ports.405017/page-2

There was a thread here (or on GTT) about this, but I'm having trouble finding it now.

We sell both Weld-On and Bolt-On varieties, all made in the USA. https://www.boltonhooks.com/

Does you loader already have the SSQA carrier? If so, you'll never regret getting real forks, you'll use then 1000x more than you thing you will. Lost of lift capacity, loss of visibility, having the load sooo far out in front (reduced maneuverability), and the risk of bending the bucket are...

Another option: Dura-Wrap© Sleeving https://www.boltonhooks.com/hydraulic-parts/ https://www.boltonhooks.com/product/dura-wrap-sleeving/

I can't see where that would be a good option myself.

Introducing the VDS from Otis Innovation, distributed by BoltOnHooks LLC. Our vented dipstick developed for MFWD (Mechanical Front Wheel Drive) front ends allow axle housings to breathe bi-directionally, preventing over-pressurization and vacuum scenarios caused by factory sealed housings or...

You can even use aluminum angle or channel, less chance or marring the rod. I've never seen "cold rolled" angle though.

It does indeed have regen, but it's a detented position past the regular dump position.

Our hooks are only 2-5/8" deep, all the "copies" are deeper. Some guys mount them on the back wall like this:

Simplest way is to just hook up the cylinders in parallel, just like loader cylinders are. You won't have independent control over the wings, if you need that (for whatever reason) you can use a splitter (more commonly called a "diverter") like mentioned above.

Thanks to everyone that recommended our products :love: Please remember when shopping and comparing that we have the only USA forged grade 70 Weldable Grabs available, this is what we use on our Bolt-On Hooks now and we also sell 5/16" and 3/8" sizes for welding.

Go QA... You will use the forks 100x more than you think you will now.

If its never been used, the PTO solenoid could be stuck.

Just remember when "shopping" for Bolt-On or Weld-On hooks, we have the ONLY forged in the USA ones available. Thanks for the support (y)

Sorry, we do not.

Have a link? You can't add that much pump capacity and not increase the sump volume to help dissipate heat.

If you put the range selector in neutral you can tow it.

To the best of my knowledge, it was/is Ameriquip: https://www.amerequip.com/

You'll have to get power from the fuse block somewhere, I can't really help with that-sorry.

No, no damages could result from that.

You're missing several dimensions one would need to duplicate that. Have you looked at McMaster Carr? https://www.mcmaster.com/

K1 is very dry...not great for injection pumps. You should be able to smell the difference?