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That would be a no in California, but you can burn weed without a burn barrel. Unless of course the Air Quality Management says it is a "no burn day". Then you just have to smoke it :cautious:

Burn barrels are illegal in California....with just about everything else, with the exception of weed. You are lucky all you have to do is go to a fire marshal and get it signed off!

In this case, the OP says that he has no solenoid, so he is manually engaging the Bendix

So you are pushing the Bendix gear into the ringgear and then applying power to the motor? Big sparks and excitement, but it won't hurt the motor. Not sure it will turn over though. Too many variables. From what you have said previously, either the motor is not in great shape or your engine is...

No, no. Apply the positive to the red +. The yellow start terminal is a flat spade on top that comes from the ignition switch. Do not attach anything to the blue terminals.

J-blades were used on the HN tiller and the John Deere tiller (647?) produced by Howard. C and L blades were for the bigger tillers

SBA385201350. Replaced By: SBA385201260 located in the rear of the transmission

The Howard is not made anymore, but it uses "J-type" blades FYI if you are looking for replacements.

Ditto to the lighter front axle. Don't worry about it, being that you are an owner operator, just don't abuse it. The Supersteer (SS) ball support, driveline slip joint and pivot pin need to be greased about once a month or so. The SS ball joint is a major job to replace; I've done a couple...

I don't have a service manual on a T4., but the pressure should be about 2-2400 psi

Could also be an air leak from the 'low pressure' filter not being seated all the way. Most modern (80s and newer) have a separate pump for steering so the 3pt lifting wouldn't be affected. 3pt holding is basically the 3pt piston holding or not.

I assume you are talking about the brake boot? Either drain the oil in the rear end OR jack up or drive the wheel up on a ramp to tilt the tractor to one side so the side lifted up is the side you want to repair. Remove the adjusting nut on the brake rod and the linkage pin, #48 to get the...

So the parts book shows that up to 3 OEM remotes can be installed on this tractor. Cleanest way to go. Looks like it may be relatively cheaper way to go too. From the parts book: This kit on Amazon may be the kit for your tractor: Amazon.com Best to ask the dealer

Nice picture of the tractor on your farm. Is it a TD5.95 or a T5.95?

Warming up or getting hot? Do they stick still?

Put a pry bar or pipe on top of the ball joint and push the pin into the arm to get it to seize.

I used to question customers on there need for a tractor mount backhoe. They are a very expensive, glorified shovel. I do like that Kubota builds small, semi-construction grade TLBs as I know several people that use them on their business to access places that they can't get any other piece of...

OP talks about the dipper rod breaking and then the bucket cylinder not retracting after repair of the dipper rod. The measurement of the rod, not sure if this means the repaired rod or the bucket rod, but again, assume the bucket rod, doesn't add to the picture.

Welcome to TBN! Perhaps the bucket rod is bent.

2666-2887 lbf/in² or 184-199 bar

Welcome to TBN! Do you know the year?

If you can turn the gland to see the dimple where the 90 deg bend should go, you could bend the wire into the depression to see if it will pick the wire up to turn.

First line of attack, if you haven't already is penetrating oil in the groove. If you have done that already, heat the barrel to loosen up any rust and such. Until you get the ring to spin with the gland, you won't know if you have a bent end to start feeding out the slot. Have you tried to...

A few pictures would be helpful

Ford didn't make any forklifts, but many forklifts used the Ford drivetrain. Harlo, Master Craft, KD Forklift and others were some. If it is a 4500, then it is all linkage, but some may have used hydraulic actuated brakes on the Ford axle.

Definitely causing the brake to not release. The dealers, Tractores Borges or Argo Tractors may have it.

It would be cheaper to just buy a starter. The starter turning over slow could be a bad connection on the solenoid or bad windings/brushes on the motor itself.

The seals on the front brake actuator discs are probably swollen from the Dot 3 fluid and may start working again after flushing with mineral oil, but not likely. The actuator disc should be located in the front hub. I don't know what axle a Valpadana 6575 uses, but I have attached a picture of...

Your tractor is a Case 1056xl?

Steering kit is: 1749782M91 available at a Massey dealer or search online for aftermarket. I believe you have a model 34A loader on a 30B. Lift cylinder uses kit 1606482M94 Bucket cylinder uses kit 1606840M93 For more information...

Welcome to TBN! Could you elaborate? Can we assume that you have no fuel coming out of the injector lines? Is all the air bled out of the pump? Do you have fuel coming out of the filter and going to the injector pump?

Is it thos: http://www.carterandsonsllc.com/

Ellen, I agree, Google Lens will help, but, you need a picture of just the hitch portion without the pin.

I don't understand. No solenoid, but you can push the bendix out by hand? Can you post a picture of what you are working with?

If the starter spun when "bench tested" then it is okay. Did the Bendix (gear on the starter) pushout when you did this? I think the starter motor is fine, but your solenoid (round piece on top of starter) may be bad.

It is very easy to replace the seal on this engine. Remove the seal housing that is bolted to the block. Look at the crankshaft for a deep groove the seal may have made. If it is very deep you have 2 options. One option is to reposition the new seal so that it is not riding in the same place...

What just sparked? Your cables may be too small or corrosion on the battery terminals. However, you say the tractor has been sitting a long time? Can you turn the engine over with a wrench on the crankshaft or a screwdriver on the flywheel teeth with the starter removed?

That sleeve is a wear sleeve and not critical without considering that size tractor will not get a lot of usage. You could put a Speedi-sleeve, 30mm in diameter over that sleeve if it is grooved and salvageable. If you want to put the sleeve on it now, research Speedi-sleeves and put your...

From the west coast, I agree that $7000 is a starting point. Missing drawbar is not a big deal and won't add value if you add it. May be a negotiating point if a prospective buyer notices it missing. Even though you used for vegetable rowcrops, the tires are plenty wide for GP use. Also in very...

Metric bolts are available just about any hardware store. Are you in the states? Take one off and match up

The splitter box is midframe that connects the engine to the back end via drivelines. The pumps drive off of the splitter box and looks like the picture attached.

"And now you know the rest of the story" The auxiliary valve was the unknown in this puzzle. Glad you found your problem and got it going. Bypassing the aux valve completely is smartest considering its new life

Hydraulics section, 05F17 diagram hydraulic pump and tubing. I'm sorry, I reread your question. The pumps are located on the splitter box

Welcome to TBN! What brand is the forklift?

Welcome to TBN! It is an interesting question as some competitors mount their engine on mounts and it may be possible on those. The TC is designed in a traditional uniframe tractor design so, like @Harry in Ky said, it has to be split. Also, cab removal is not necessary.

????? Do you mean are they fine thread or coarse? Not sure.

You may have to get a different mounting bracket for that tine. https://www.shoupparts.com/sh2th-clamp-for-s-tines/

Glad to be of help and glad you got it working. I love your description of "there was lots of something stuck to the walls and bottom of the cup"! Yup, that is a good description of things you find that gum up the works.

The TN has a double clutch setup with the PTO lever engaging the PTO clutch. My guess is that the PTO clutch is stuck to the flywheel if it is indeed turning and not disengaging. It might also be that #13 cable located under the deck needs to be adjusted if the clutch is just dragging and can be...

There are standard, heavy duty and high clearance tines. Guessing you got the high clearance. https://www.shoupparts.com/shop/product-type/shanks-and-s-tines/tillage-shanks/s-tines/?srsltid=AfmBOopeREE2qpXhuTqbv5dNRBYCjDPudO5OgEPqyzuzBEiMarUIznd3...

Not sure what you are asking, but the union is: JIC 9/16-18 thread Male X JIC 9/16-18 thread Male, so the connector is going to be JIC 9/16-18 Female. And yes, it is the same fitting on both ends; female. I thought it was a gas unit as the diesel shows a solid steel line, without the rubber...

I goofed. That is a gas tractor isn't it? Probably #36 or 37 running down the right side. #36 - 539507M1 https://gtengineparts.com/agco/539507m1 #37 - 535991M1 https://gtengineparts.com/agco/535991m1?srsltid=AfmBOopo_VBWcfvwbX_BHE3HLuyBpWI7dR5RjLJi3UwzisFbSXcbqt4R

Welcome to TBN! Here is the illustration from the 30B diesel book to give you an idea what you're dealing with.

You could put the tip in some carburetor cleaner and let it soak. You need a injector pressure tester to set the opening of the injector properly. You could set the screw back to where you found it and hope forvthe best.

I am very familiar with the mechanics of the dual cylinder swing, but what I am thinking is happening as the pushing cylinder overcenters the post, it is leaking by and the pulling cylinder that is getting crossover oil is getting very little pressure. Also, the pulling cylinder has more...

Very strange indeed. It is definitely a hydraulic lock caused by oil bypassing a swing piston. I had similar happen on my 550, but it happened over time, has chain swing and chevron packing. Your piston seals are mych more robust, but I just can't think of anything else. Awfully strange...

0.30mm for both inlet and exhaust http://vintagetractorengineer.com/2015/01/setting-valve-clearances-ad3-152-engine/

The cable/valve setup is easier to locate and place for the manufacturer.

I don't have a Branson, but have you looked at Surplus Center? https://www.surpluscenter.com/Hydraulics/Hydraulic-Valves/Directional-Control-Valves/2-Spool-Compact-10-GPM-Joystick-Control-Valve-Brand-Hydraulics-LV22TSTKA2B-9-16149.axd

Welcome to TBN! In the picture of the start solenoid, yellow blade lug is for the momentary start wire. The red + lug (not spade connectors) is where the + from the battery goes. Ground can go on the starter mount bolt or the frame of the tractor acts as the ground connection as @Roadworthy...

Welcome to TBN! It sounds like you got some foreign material in the line, clogging the restrictor.

After looking at the price NH wants for that line, might we ask why you are needing/replacing it? A lot can be done with fuel line, hose clamps and the old fittings

Hal, the numbers are stamped into the bell housing RH flat behind the starter. The number you showed is just the engine casting number. All you really need to know for the line, if it is diesel, is whether you have a single or dual fuel filter setup. Attached is the parts illustration showing...

Pull the kill cable out when you do this. You don't want to have the engine start and have a "decent spray" come out if one does come out or you may be showered in oil.

I looked up the spool, obsolete. You can get white iron disc bearings from AgriSupply, but probably slightly wider and different bolt mount.

Welcome to TBN! You have a Massey Ferguson 22 disc. You can buy the white iron bearings from a Massey dealer. You may be able to replace with aftermarket white iron disc bearings by measuring the spool length and the axle diameter (width actually since it is square) and searching for white iron...

Should be a plate, but if it is gone.... Shouldn't make any difference. Mott was purchased by Alamo Group, but here is an aftermarket that specializes in Mott: https://www.montageent.com/

Welcome to TBN! That looks like a Mott mower

Yes, the controller is obsolete. It controls the F/R modulation of the transmission, so when you engage the transmission, regardless of speed, it modulates the transmission to start in 3 steps so as to not jerk too much. The lockup can be controlled by a separate switch.

The 8X8 is the only torque convertor transmission with PTO on the C and D series. You could also get a clutch 6X4 transmission on these. The PTO is independent, wet clutch type. The downfall on 8X8 torque convertor is that the transmission controller is obsolete. @eKretz, here on TBN has a...

Yes, that's it. Hopefully, you didn't lose a U-joint.

Agree on the front hydraulic pump being suspect by your description. You may have sheared the splines on the pump shaft or driveshaft with that jar to the system.

Glad to hear that you got it working correctly. Unfortunate that you had to disassemble, but now you know the condition of the brakes.

Then I would say your detent mechanism may be gummed up, specifically 42-50.

If I recall correctly, that is the way you do it. You can look at the parts diagram and see that the plunger (34, 35, 36) is probably stuck. You can take that screw assembly off and take a look.

https://www.messicks.com/catalogs/woods/1012-loader

Glad to hear you resolved the problem. Make sure you use a hydraulic transmission oil with a friction modifier to prevent grabbing or squawking brakes. Adjust the brakes so that you have about 3/4-1" free play in the brake pedals

The picture of the steel discs shows overheating. The actuator ball ramps are cupped at the deepest point. I'm wondering if the brakes were adjusted too tight and the brakes were always just dragging on that side.

Yes, I have tried there part number (the part numbers for the transmission parts in the Ford New Holland system are a Kubota number preceded by K), but I have not found where Kubota uses these parts in any of their tractors.

I don't see the damage on the extension with all your pictures. Is it cracked?

Well if you have an SOS, then you know about taking care of a tractor. By the way, if it is a 4WD 545D, make sure you grease the rear axle pivot as there is a thin oring that keeps dirt out and front differential oil in. Also, inspect often to make sure it isn't leaking from that area. Parts...

It is true that a lot of parts are not made for that transmission, but used parts and some aftermarket are available. It is a sturdy transmission and not worth swapping over your worries. I have a customer that I sold one new to 25-30 years ago who is a dirt contractor. Still going strong today...

I don't see that part on the parts diagram, nor that style gearbox. Nevertheless, I think it could be fabbed by a competent machine shop/welder as it looks like a flat clamp that holds the gearbox steady on the deck.

Here it is, located on the hydraulic line off of the pump, but the price!

Welcome to TBN! Definitely a fuel starvation issue. Maybe a clogged fuel tank outlet or fuel filter inlet You might blow compressed air in the fuel pump inlet line to see if the line/tank has a restriction

No DPF on this tractor. Too old. The symbol is for the brake fluid reservoir indicating that the fluid is low. It is probably on the cusp and going up/down a hill is causing it to flash. Use NH brake oil, NOT brake fluid.

Maybe

That is going to the neutral safety switch. The wires coming from the harness that are supposed to go to that are looped to bypass the switch allowing the tractor to be started in gear. The switch is under the cover

Is there an ID plate still on the hood? The fifth number in the model code will tell. Alternately, you can check it out this way: Code 2 Transmission PTO = The clutch pedal will stop and start both the PTO and transmission 3 Live PTO = You can disengage the transmission, but keep...

Recommend putting a wedge between the front axle and engine rail on each side so the front doesn't flop to the side. Easy split otherwise

BTW, the true model number, C40*** should be C4011K. C40 = 3400, 1st generation 1 = means vertical diesel 1 = no PTO K = 6x4 manual reverse shuttle

The casting #, D0NN, indicates that it is a 1970 (D0) build design. The NN means it was designed for tractors. Look at the RH front bolster of the engine for an alphanumeric stamping. The first part should be a 2, meaning it was built in 1972. Probably a 2B*** like the engine date code of 2B14B...

Oh, well that explains the no steering. Power steering pump probably no good

You are correct, it is a 1972, Feb 14 build. The prefix of the model and the front axle verifies that is a 3400. Castings show that the engine is original. Nor a bad tractor for $500. With oul in the power steering pump, the steering doesn't work or the steering gear is bad?

Do you know where leak is coming from? Agree with @Carl_NH that it is just orings and the block may have been welded later. The allen head plugs may be just that, plugging machined ports when the block was made. Random weld on the block looks like a possible source. Disassembling the reliefs...

Without going through my manuals to find a 757C OM, I attached the parts picture for the hydraulic kit for the 757C to the TC30. There is a set of quick couplers added to the power beyond from the loader to the backhoe so the loader can be used when the backhoe is detached, but otherwise, the...

'Standard' for old Ford/Schwartz loaders is the question. Standard to newer loaders, probably not. But, you might reach out to this outfit to see if they can accommodate you. https://asktractormike.com/ford-new-holland-quick-attach-adapter-plates/ https://hayspear.com/pin-on-ford-771-to-skidsteer/

I'm guessing that the actuator is worn or maybe 1 or 2 springs that hold the 2 halves together are broken causing the actuator to drag on the discs. Pictures when you find the problem would be great.

The International Agri-Center® is home to World Ag Expo®, the largest annual agricultural show of its kind. Held in Tulare, California, World Ag Expo® provides a platform of networking, education, and business in one of the most productive ag counties in the United States. World Ag Expo® hosts...

Welcome to TBN! @555man, you are on right path. You can check the declutching solenoid/valve on the left side of the transmission. It bolts onto the outside of the transmission and dumps shuttle oil when the button is depressed. Pretty unlikely though. There is a button on the floor that does...

I'm not sure about the "manifold" plumbing, but you don't want to T into the line coming from the loader to the remote valve. You want to be inline with the remote valve with the line going from the loader to the manifold so you can keep the 3pt working.

Old post I know, but the 545D is/was one of the best all around loader tractors with a PTO. The brake can be replaced without splitting, but there is not much surface area on it and they wear out under use. If the PTO was never used, it is curious that it is worn out.

At the bottom of the spool is the spring cover held on by two allen head bolts. Remove those and be ready to catch any loose parts. Could be the the bolt that holds the spring in place came loose/off or the spring broke.

Shouldn't have to as the torque converter will stay on the transmission. However, replace the input seal on the transmission and the freeze plugs, rear main seal on the engine.

A lot of hours on this tractor? Are the brakes adjusted out and the actuator is worn. The actuator is two plates sandwiching 4 balls that when you push the brake, roll the balls up the ramps pushing the plates out to engage the brakes discs. When the brakes get to the end of life, the balls...

Welcome to TBN! Should be a pipe plug just ahead of the drawbar bracket

Yes, exactly. It didn't post tge whole picture, but it shows it as tge same kit mentioned

They didn't say why they were reluctant? Steel line will last longer, but... #33 - 4260837M92 PIPE ASSY,DEL,FRONT Search results for: '4260837M92' https://search.app/NccDfyg2Uk5RW6ij6

Hans, did you actually check the spring assembly in the spool? Could be a relief on that side of the spool is leaking.

Welcome to TBN! Trying to visualize, you wouldn't T into the manifold, but if you have a large enough remote valve to handle the flow through it, you can take the PB from the loader to the input on the remote valve. PB on the remote valve would be the hose that goes to the backhoe. The return on...

Searched MX5400 heater and found this through Kubota

Sounds like the torque converter might be stuck on the transmission input seal. Through the starter hole, unbolt the flex plate from the flywheel. 8 bolts.

Welcome to TBN! @EddieWalker is correct in saying that cylinders can be difficult to rebuild, but in this case, if you are mechanically inclined, you should be able to do it. The kit is correct. You don't need the S/N as you have the loader cylinder number. The kit runs about $35 from Deere.

Welcome to TBN! I assume you have power to the starter lug from the battery. Have you looked to see if one of the wires off of that lug is a fusible link and disintegrated, but insulation is intact?

Welcome to TBN! I just sold my Fermec 640 parts book, but it is very much the same as a Massey Ferguson 50E. Take a look at the parts book here and see what you think. Start at page 334 https://parts.agcocorp.com/us/en/apbsearch?q=masseyferguson/819742/l&name=MF+50E+TRACTOR+%28POWER+SHUTTLE%29

That's the way I see it. The glands appear to be held by wire type snap rings. I was confused by your comment when you said a nut had to be removed, but I saw the 740 picture and your comment on that. The kit, AL160541, is out of stock in a lot of places, but can be found Googling it. Heating...

The first photo is the 740 axle that bolts on with 3 bolts. The second photo is the AS2045 that has the external nut that holds it in place. Once the nut is removed, the cylinder comes out of the axle. The gland is held in place on the opposite side with an external snap ring and an internal...

Which axle does he have?

Here is a replacement https://www.tractorpartsasap.com/carburetor-new-ford-c0nn9510c-marvel-schebler-184573.html?gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQiA7se8BhCAARIsAKnF3rzLJOhXXDvVYwp55wperyhXoZ_vq4Udc5gBbOs4VhhpASDdzb4cxFwaAoH_EALw_wcB

1993 F350 460 CID V8 with a ZF 5 speed stick. Very smooth transmission.

If you hooked it up the same and bought it from a reputable source, then it would turn correctly. By the way, counter clockwise from the rear of the engine is correct.

Any front suitcase weight, 35lb size for compact Ford New Holland should work, such as the following: https://northstatesales.com/search.php?search_query=3113b You could check tractor salvage yards like Southern Global or Wengers

This company has different ranges, large dial https://www.productsforautomation.com/durachoice-ps404l500-pressure-gauge-4-500psi-p/ps404l-500.htm https://www.productsforautomation.com/durachoice-ps404l200-pressure-gauge-4-200psi-p/ps404l-200.htm

Fasten a lifting lug through the bolt hole in the back of the head. Remove the water filter bracket on the front LH of the head to lift the engine out. You should lay it on the left side. Probably take the exhaust manifold off so you can block up because the flywheel and back engine plate stick...

Update to an old post. That "oddball valve" you took off of your tractor was a Gannon McGee valve that was a real common valve used on landscape top and tilt tractors in the west. Ford used to offer it in the 60s and 70s. Woods bought Gannon.

Welcome to TBN! A 3500 will have dry brakes, drums on the end of the axle. A 3550 will have wet brakes, inboard on ta 'trumpet' axle

Welcome to TBN! Agree with @Roadworthy. 58, 59 and 60; spring, ball and plunger in the socket

Purchased from New Holland?

Sorry, I was thinking the newer transmission. Oil level is correct?

Welcome to TBN. The oil is coming out of the wiring? That switch screws into the cover with a copper sealing washer. It sounds to me like you have two defective switches.

Welcome to TBN! No tips other than penetrant and a very little amount of heat on the steering shaft. Lift up on the wheel while pulling on either side to loosen. The puller is the only way.

The lines going through the grommet are two L shaped steel lines. One end is what you see, the other end screws into the T junction under the axle. To remove them, you would unscrew them from the joint pictured and the T junction underneath, unbolt them from the bracket via the jam nuts #20...

Pretty strange, but thinking that you do have two duds. Install the incandescent and see what happens as your meter indicates voltage. 120 watts/1 amp is less than a floodlight would be.

Yeah pretty sumilar lines on those tractors as the 3010S was basically styled after the 10/30 series. Looks like you have an interesting project on your hands. Looking forward to your progress

New Holland T4. F series are as narrow as 54”, and T4. V as narrow as 42”; 61 - 102 PTO hp. They have been around under TN F, T40*0 F and now T4. F/V. Good selection of used and dealer network. Pretty much Fiat built completely.

Welcome to TBN! A fellow TBN poster had the same problem. Here is his post: https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/threads/err-06-on-a-3520.429898/

I hope you can get the cab to work. I’ve never seen that style cab on a 3930, but nevertheless, those two tractors are not similar. The 3930 is basically a Ford designed 3 cylinder model. The 3010 is a Fiat model made to fit in that hp range as an economical offering.

Perhaps a part off of a combine

Agree with sevengables, it is a strainer, not a filter. The screens are usually 50 mesh, but can be finer. Here is one on Ebay with a 100 mesh and a good price. SPRAYING SYSTEMS - TEE JET - DUCTILE IRON STRAINER - 9830-3/4TW-100 | eBay...

Here is some info on your new sprayer. A source for Myers parts is: https://atlanticpump.net/ If they don't work, DM me and I can see if some of the guys I know out here in California can help. A lot of the Myers and Bean pumps soraying orchards and vineyards here wuth them still.

On the PTO, there is a brake that has worn out most likely. It is #20 in the picture. Search C9NNN747A arm assembly and you can purchase it aftermarket. It can be accessed through the LH inspection cover where the PTO lever goes into the case. It wears out because the PTO is shutoff at high RPM...

Welcome to TBN. Perkins 3.152 Gas or diesel pushrods are the same, 731150M1. Gas version: https://parts.agcocorp.com/us/en/apbsearch?q=masseyferguson/651199/l&c=10&tocGuid=6844d9d3-a402-5942-755d-38e6d163e820&name=CYLINDER%20HEAD%2C%20COVER%2C%20VALVES%2C%20ROCKERSHAFT%20(PERKINS%20GAS)...

No, not me, but glad I could assist in your hunt.

Also: Massey Ferguson MF1120 White FB16 Take a look at this post from 2020: https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/threads/tu1900-information.432320/

https://www.ebay.com/itm/283393174126 Maybe?

Welcome to TBN! Doesn't look like their are any. Same engine as a Suzuki 750 king quad.

The hydraulic oil is common for both pumps pulling out of the transmission/rear end. There are two plugs that are readily accessible to drain with a third that is a little harder to get to. The oil fill/dipstick is located on the RH rear end.

Googled it and see it is available from any dealer. Link to 235 parts book: https://parts.agcocorp.com/us/en/apbsearch?q=masseyferguson/651352/l&name=MF+235+TRACTOR

Google fuel injection pump service near me OR Send to @thepumpguysc on this forum

I read your post as bucket not lifting tractor, but loader is limp or floating; got it. Since it won't stay in float, is it possible the spool has some broken parts in the end cap? Other question is does the loader hold in position when it is raised off of the ground?

Sounds like one or both bucket cylinders is leaking internally.

This was answered in the other category, but you can do a Racor system too. Where are your leaks? Just like @Harry in Ky said that he has changed hundreds of CAV filters over the years and not had a problem, I too have changed them without leaks. If the filter is leaking around the cartridge...

Ditto to Harry's comment. Buy all the sealing donuts and replace the existing ones. It will be far cheaper and easier

Sounds like the brake piston is hanging up in the housing. You could temporarily swap the brake lines on the master cylinders and try pumping the brakes. That would eliminate the master cylinders. After that, you'll have to pull the axle and inspect.

I will have to dig out my tire books and figure out the ratios, but the 335 is based pretty much around the 3910 painted yellow. Ford made an industrial offering for municipalities and highway outfits. Later, the industrial tractors had a different front reversing gearbox on the axle that...

Well thanks for the clarification of where you live. Other than your username, there is no way of knowing your circumstances other than you are Canadian! As far as the tractor goes, a cerrametalic is overkill on that tractor especially if it has a non-shuttle transmission. An abusive user is...

Ceramic puck clutch discs are commonly used in manual shuttle transmissions and are very durable. The downside is that they tear up flywheels sometimes. Go to a clutch rebuilder shop or aftermarket. I looked in the parts book though and they only show the organic clutch disc. I am assuming...

I'm referring to the linkage. I thought maybe it could be the cab on the opposite end of the spool valve could be loose, but that usually doesn't allow the valve to center to neutral causing a particular circuit to drift.

Wondering if you might just buy this: https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/threads/ford-new-holland-20-series-loader-valve-kit.511871/

I read this when you posted, but couldn't think of what might do this. Now reading it, I'm wondering if the linkage might be loose

Really no procedure in the manual or reason to do so, but I do have the description from the manual about it if it can be of help. Ideally, you would want to raise the loader all the way up and block the cylinders with heavy angle iron, but if you don't have any way to lift the arms, then you...

I did a Challenger MT265B which is basically the same. The driveshaft shield is bolted to the front axle #11 and a clamp #8 in the middle. Once you slide the shield back, there are snap rings #2 on either side of the front and rear drive shaft couplers that hold the coupler in place. Open the...

It is a 455, Feb 12, 1988 build. The built the 455 from 7/87 to 11/88, then built the 455C. There were never any 455A's or 455B's. The 345, 445 and 545 are straddle mount where is this is a flat deck made for a backhoe, BUT, the 455 could also have a 3 point hitch. K = 400 size F = Flat deck...

It will give you a couple of inches to move the engine forward. Check wear on the coupling of torque converter as there is no clutch. Replace the transmission input seal. Replace rear engine freeze plugs.

Welcome to TBN! Attached is the procedure from the 6500/7500 backhoe manual. Same tractors, just more power. Hope you get it running again.

You are correct about the lines. It is a tandem pump setup.

Did you see this one? https://www.ebay.com/itm/235794361682?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=csbsdms4rg-&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=V7KhAEDrRbW&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

Welcome to TBN! Could be the rollpun through the bellcrank is worn, not allowing the PTO to engage fully. Also could be the detent spring/ball is worn or broken.

Sorry, I was thinking just turbo. https://compactractorparts.com/product/massey-ferguson/engine-massey-ferguson/gaskets-engine-massey-ferguson/w-0133-gk-e3cd/?srsltid=AfmBOooPOc-ylY_CGA2rpL4mhUrlH-KUxNXCy4FD6nyfpoiGXjrZ3FuF

Welcome to TBN! What brand is the turbo?

Welcome to TBN! Did get the right number for the code? Center hole pn both ends tends to be common, not saying this is the case pn yours. Spring wear on holes on this old a tractor is usually apparent. https://www.tractorforum.com/attachments/78810/

Seals should be adequate, but get down and try to wiggle the shaft on either side. Adding oil is mot a problem, but dobyou know what the thin, light brown oil is in it? No teason to remove the inspection plate.

I thought I would give you the long answer to let you decide according to your ability. It is a nuisance. I have lived with one for awhile, but it is on my backhoe so there is even more to it.

Welcome to TBN! It is not an easy job if you don't have heavy tools and a puller with extensions. The oil needs to be drained in the rear end, the wheel comes off and the trumpet housing (axle half) removed. Once off, the brake assembly comes out, the axle unbolted from the trumpet and the...

When you open the gearbox, you should find some part numbers stamped on the gears. That should determine who made the box

I have seen the Samarai Sabre, but I just set up a double sickle, different brand, on a Deere 5075M. I didn't run the the sickles on the 3rd function for a couple of reasons. One was the electrohydraulic valve wasn't made to be activated full-time. Secondly, the hoses and the passages on the 3rd...

Welcome to TBN! Probably a Bushhog 406. What's wrong with it?

An external pump is necessary. Speed is the product of flow. Force is the product of pressure.

https://www.clipsandfasteners.com/Halogen-Headlight-Hi-Temp-Socket-Assembly-p/a23230.htm

The independent PTO is great. Wet clutch style which can last a long time if it wasn't abused. Definitely a C on the model. CH designates 335 Highway, which is why it has the tires it does on it. I will look at the tire combos available on it and let you know.

Hi everyone, I have a B2410 with a hydro pedal that won't center. The shock is good. I am thinking that the spring, #4 in the illustration, is broken or missing. My question is, how do you access that spring? I have never torn down a small Kubota like this and see the transmission top support...

Welcome to TBN! I assume it is a Power Shuttle transmission. If so, possible shuttle lever problem

Just came across your post today. Not sure about the G in the model number. Should be a C. The 414D would say it is in: 4 - 4th generation 1 - Diesel, Vertical exhaust 4 - Independent 540 PTO D - 8 x 4 Synchromesh transmission Did you get the numbers off of the hood or the RH ledge of the...

Welcome to TBN! It is not quick attach, but it will detach. It could have a 3pt attachment, which will detach from the 3 point. OR It could be a later 4 point attach which is detachable as well. Go to: 3 Point...

Only comment that I differ on with you @Sportsman762 is that I believe it has a 6FX4R manual shuttle transmission. It still requires clutching, but not as clunky as an 8Fx2R transmission. I do agree with OP needs to be mechanically inclined. This machine is a very mechanic friendly machine. The...

Well 56 years, but you learn something new all the time. Your thinking is correct. Locking out draft control lonkage gives you better control on the height adjustments. Changing leverage points on draft rocker gives you more or less sensitivity depending on whether you had a heavy draft such as...

Welcome to TBN! Wow, looks rough, but paint isn't everything. Hours don't mean anything as the hourmeters don't usually last. The year can be found out easily, but again not an issue for purchasing. No leaks? Good. Steering, clutch good and engine good are the main issues. If you go in person...

It holds the suction tube onto the case. As I said in the previous post, you may be able to take the inspection plate off of the opposite side and hold it in place while someone screws the screw back in to the bracket

Good advice @DJ54, but this, 723 and the 713 backhoe were for tractors 1964 and prior. Not likely any exist in any kind of shape used to salvage that are any better. @KCTractors, the reason I asked about rebuilding the cylinders, Allen Industrial Chrome, Beaumont, Calif., 951 572-2258 can...

Do you have your old cylinders and what is wrong with them if you do?

I don't know that clutch setup, but if the TO bearing is on a manual clutch rod, remove the linkage to get more movement to remove from the fingers.

Oil return aka PB takes oil from the loader valve and sends it down the line for other hydraulic functions to use such as rear remotes or the 3 pt. Excess oil return is takes oil that is exhausted from the loader cylinders and returns it to the sump under no pressure. Oil supply line is...

All States Ag, Reliable Tractor and AgKits all have good kits When you have the pressure plate bolted onto the flywheel, make sure the fingers are all the same height. Make up some alignment pins to by cutting the heads off of 2 bolts that will fit into the bell housing as long studs. That way...

You mean like this? https://www.messicks.com/bh/83938?diagramId=631764&sectionId=239856&srsltid=AfmBOoopzLV7G7Jyr5GSBK_UMCnOFvRHJhQuxyGvS3I12tg2Y9jhwOJ-

Curious, does your 3pt lever connect to what is pictured in the parts diagram? I'm thinking that #8, 13 and 14 are the adjustment that would have solved the problem. On the other hand, it sounded like it was a geometric problem rather than a sector adjustment problem

Glad you found a fix, but it would be great to see a side view of the linkage. I can't believe there is no adjustment.

At this point, do you need the kit? If you got it all cleaned up and lubed, you should be fine. You can look at the helpful Tips and Tricks on the part listed that includes a YouTube video: As far as moisture in that end, it isn't really sealed and water can trickle down the valve body into to...

Not easily, but you can try and get some lube down the cable and work it back and forth.

Welcome to TBN! Is your cable control? I only see a 2045 and 2047 model. Which part on the valve or joystick? Pictures would help

Haha, yeah, stay away from this "mechanic". But if you do see him again, ask him how the rods stretch. I think we all want to hear this.