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On the opposite end of the spool from the linkage, the endcap may have some rust or is simply dry. Take the cap off and inspect. Also, the bolts on this cap may be loose causing the valve spool to not center

I would have to look it up, but I believe that is right. The thicker gasket would be correct. The rods would not stretch though.

The 'splitter valve' is a reservoir for the Thermostart manifold heater. It doesn't need to be part of the temporary system, but the leakoff line does go back to the/a tank. Those injectors may be correct, but may be adjusted wrong. What is the actual injector number?

Two things on you pictures. First, you blocked the side line from the pump to the filter head, why? Second, and it may not make a difference, is your 'return from the injectors' plumbed into the filter head should go to your tank from the #3 injector and that port on the head plugged. There is...

Two things on you pictures. First, you blocked the side line from the pump to the filter head, why? Second, and it may not make a difference, is your 'return from the injectors' plumbed into the filter head should go to your tank from the #3 injector and that port on the head plugged. There is...

Basic manual synchro transmission that is really good. This tractor is the opposite end of the spectrum vs the SLE you were looking at as far as electronics and reliability.

It is an SLE meaning it has the 16x16 powershift transmission. If it was well taken care of, this would be a good price. Looks pretty nice in the pictures. A/C will be expensive to add and would probably need to go aftermarket system

Dose the connecting link have an adjustment? A couple of pictures would help if someone here with a Kioti doesn't chime in first.

This is an illustration of a 3pt position rod, #53 & 54. It is connected to the lift arm and tells the hydraulic system where the lift arm is positioned. It can be adjusted so that the 3pt quadrant responds correctly. Again, I don't know what Kioti does, but this is what I would look for to...

It sounds like you have draft control on your Kioti, but I don't think they offer it on that model. Since you don't, I would think that the position rod on the 3pt arm that senses the position of the hitch for the 3pt valve is out of adjustment.

If it is dark, black oil, then your engine rear main seal is leaking. If it is amber, clear oil, then you have a transmission input seal leaking.

Welcome to TBN! When you say it is non fixable, what are you talking? Rods can be replaced, straightened, rechromed or remanufactured, cylinders can be manufactured; what is the damage?

The flow goes to the pump from the bottom of the reservoir, so from the outside of the filter to the inside.

Welcome to TBN from California. Not this forum, but an interesting read on a similar problem on a Boomer 37: https://www.tractorforum.com/threads/new-holland-boomer-37-will-not-start-no-fuel-from-injector-pump.35410/page-2

Agree completely. I tried a couple of corner braces with Wedge-Loc and found that in loamy or sandy soil, the corner T-post pulled out.

W-W trailers are pretty well built for an aluminum trailer. Check aluminum internal corners and frame of the box itself for stress cracks on the welds.

Since you are in Ireland, you might look at: https://www.tracpartz.com/brands/shibaura or https://www.rdmparts.com/en/c-1893-shibaura-parts?srsltid=AfmBOoq75sKkULo1tKv9KMTUsICHnnM-yrSBwmm7Re_mRHDYv7UCrAMQ

Without more pictures or brand name, it is difficult to help with rebuilding that one. Two options here. One could be what you have now. https://www.shoupparts.com/700-1510-fasse-valves-remote-master-iso/?srsltid=AfmBOoodMi_vBqVlRL3kxjpmsZ_9i9T4EXP6ivf3xJlvz8jX5vj3S3jO...

@JC-jetro, good point on heat sink, but the rear axle is cast aluminum, so it would really exchange heat.

It already has one for the oil. You could replace that with a bigger, generic one, but I would be looking at why it is excessively hot. I get it that it may be extra hot in Petaluma, but there may be another reason such as the cooler fins are blocked OR there is a valve that is stuck that is...

Timing is everything in this case if you don't pick it up in time to take to the bbq, you could drop hot ash/coals on the way. BUT, not a bad idea.

Welcome to TBN! Are you talking about the PTO shaft leaking or are you talking about the shaft for the lever leaking?

If the guy just pulled the pump out, the replacement pump only mates to the gear one way. Bolting the pump to the engine should match a timing mark, but most likely, you can match the flange of the replacement to the paint outline of the old pump.

Welcome to TBN! Original numbers are 3233F390 or D6NN9A543G https://www.tractorpartsasap.com/fuel-injection-pump-new-cav-lucas-3233f390-121307.html https://www.ebay.com/itm/294722679765 Original injector number D0NN9F593A

12 hours of labor to fix the flywheel?? Does it have a loader on it?? That tractor shouldn't take more than about 6 or 7 hours to split and put back. Clutch could be examined and you could make the call. The ring gear costs about $50-60 and labor to torch it off and heat shrink it back on...

https://www.robertstractor.com/ford-tractor-3000-gas-cylinder-head-casting-c7nn6090y-bare-head.html

Welcome to TBN. Could be the linkage is worn and not pushing the bellcrank #20 that engages the PTO in the case all the way. Other possibility is the PTO detent (#10, 11) is worn, but to change the spring or shim up would require taking the 3pt top cover off to access.

Hydraulic or diesel tank?

Did you get this figured out?

Yes, you are looking to see if the driveline turns or attempts to turn to see if the clutches are slipping or disengaged. There is a slim chance that something in the front axle is bad too, but one thing at a time. By hi/lo working, I assume it has Dual Power which is engaged by the same...

It is a Japanese licensed CharLynn design. Here are the Deere parts I used and the equivalent New Holland parts at current prices: Deere New Holland B3690R $4.60 Oring = 272380 $ 5.30 C15104 $13.59 Dust Wiper =...

Yes, I have. The steering seal at the top of the steering motor is leaking (#5). You can get the kit to reseal the whole motor, SBA334293128 for $230., but the problem is at the top. Water gets into the top of the motor, rusts the input shaft/coupler and the rust flakes of into the seal. You can...

Welcome to TBN! Maybe @thepumpguysc can help out here.

Beautiful tractor! SynchroShift transmission (column shift). Series 2, and I was wrong about the ZF, used 1984-87, which this has, being only on series 1. Made in Basildon, England. It has a multiclutch transfer case and it should be engaged in 4wd without oil pressure. It is oil pressure that...

Welcome to TBN! What year 6610? Is it a series 1, blue and white striped decal. Or is it a series 2 with a black and red stripe. Another way to tell is the earlier used a ZF front wheel drive (ZF on the axle ID) and the planetaries stick out of the wheel. The series 2 had a Carraro front...

Ag Kits makes some real nice kits https://www.agkits.com/Ford-201-Gas-Engine-Rebuild-Kit.aspx

Until you get the head off, not much more to look for that you haven't already discovered. As Tinhack said, you won't be able to sleeve the engine yourself, BUT, there are services available in some areas that will do a mobile bore/sleeve service so you don't have to remove the engine. The head...

Messicks or any New Holland dealer New Holland 3000 - SERIES - 3 CYL TRACTOR(01/65 - 12/74) Parts Diagrams

Jake, search DHPN3A674A kit for the remote reservoir pump

What make/model of tractor? 540 rpm PTO could be 1800 rpm engine speed on an older tractors to 2700 rpm on smaller compacts

According to cross reference, you could use a New Holland 86546618 filter, $10.05

Welcome to TBN! I don't have experience with Branson, but from your picture, like most tractor water pumps, if you can take the fan off, remove the fan belt and remove the water pump bolts, you should be able to remove it. Not sure what kind of room you have. If you don't have enough room, you...

Agree

No, that won't work I was working off of my phone but remembered the valve lever mounts differently.

I've used these cables on a couple of valves. The cables have quite a bit of throw. You might look at this to update your valve connection, and yes I have used this company too: https://www.besttruckeq.com/search.php?search_query=Gresen It will not hurt anything to use the solenoid valve for...

An alternate way to clean up the system and get rid of the solenoid valve would be to do the following. Buy a block and sandwich under the diverter valve and top cover. You will get the flow from the pump in the rear axle only, which is about 10 gpm, but it would be enough to operate the loader...

Again, you have a leak in the system. Could be a piston seal that is failing, but seats occasionally and works again, but not much to diagnose without getting into it.

https://southern-global.com/shop/engine-parts/engine-kit/re-ring-kit-rrk-s723/ https://www.tractorpartsasap.com/parts-categories/tractor-parts/ford-tractor-parts/1210/engine-parts.html

Do you use the rear remotes?

Welcome to TBN! WOW! If that isn't a pile of ......! for hooking up a valve. Where does the valve get it's hydraulic supply from? Can you take a picture? The 6610 II did have a semi closed center system if coming out of the deluxe remotes, but the hydraulics can be tapped into on the open center...

The following swing cylinders are for a 50H S https://parts.agcocorp.com/us/en/apbsearch?q=masseyferguson/819766/l&name=MF+50H+%2F+50HX+%2F+60H+TRACTOR%2C+BACKHOE%2C+LOADER+-+SERIES+%27S%27 If the tractor is a 50D, the backhoe could be a 54, 54A or 54B. Picture of swing diagram attached for a...

Even in Northern California, that last part about keeping it watered might not work.

Welcome to TBN! It is a great tractor. Check the hydraulic pump drivecto engine driveline and the ateering linkage under that shft in the nose of the tractor for excess wear. Other than that, it is a strong machine beingca predecessor to the 545 and 550 tractors

I've had the same experience with hydraulic filter on a Kubota tractor. Ended up sticking a large screwdriver through it and just about ripped it off. Finally unscrewed, but I don't know why Kubota filters can be that way.

Welcome to TBN! Yes, that is the that is the hydraulic fill.

Nice to have the skill and know what was done

Digging it out and disposing of the plant after seed heads appear or spot spraying before the seed heads appear will result in the same thing, a hole where the plant was, which is better than the foxtail occupying that space and multiplying. Seeding those bare spots next year will allow...

Redman135, you spurred me to research this as it is a problem. Common name: Hare Barley. Great read from UC Davis on it. https://wric.ucdavis.edu/information/natural%20areas/wr_H/Hordeum_marinum-murinum.pdf

Foxtails are hard to distinguish from other grasses until the seed heads appear, then it's too late. They tend to grow flat to the ground, so hard to mow the main plant. We have lots and lots of foxtails. Ww have had about 4 incidents requiring vet tobtreat our dogs overvthe last 30 years. I...

Makes some sense as the transmission controller depends on the battery, but if it started without issue, sounds like a ground problem for the trans controller. Whatever, you are back running smoothly.

I think you're on the right track. Removing the PS pump should get you the coupler. Not much else to it.

Nice! Yup, dealer was gouging you.

And in California. So what I was saying, is it a Caterpillar dozer sold by a Holt Caterpillar dealer? OP? @holtowner ?

Subframe can stay on. If you have a floorjack and a pair of jackstands on a concrete pad, it's not hard to do. Position the floorjack under the bellhousing from the back of the tractor. Rest the engine frame on a jackstands. You may have to install some bolts in the engine frame to rest the...

Did you try heat on the fitting? Usually corrosion bonds the nut to the threads. https://www.hydraulicsdirect.com/compression-fittings-en/steel-industrial-tube-fittings/47305?gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjwmrqzBhAoEiwAXVpgogGggw-S7pZ00OK4cHtXUytaWpAtDLz2fA4YeU7WU7U64MiPCx8jCBoCstgQAvD_BwE

Interesting. Holt became Caterpillar in 1925. Now, it may be a Cat bulldozer sold by Holt Caterpillar. A picture would be great

Massey Ferguson tractors are very hard to pin down for year and in some cases, even model on older tractors. I know it would be nice to know the year, but unlike cars, tractors in general don't change much in production.

Mastertran Ultaction 73344267 is available New Holland 134D general hydraulic oil 73344281 should work, but the prior is probably best for hydro.

Welcome to TBN! Just curious, why do you need to know the year? With a 3 year production run, there are no real differences.

It may work, but I agree with you that adapting may be simple. Keep us posted.

Pretty sure they are not

@twiley, Welcome to TBN! A 535 would be 1975-78 and the model code would start DD2... It also came in diesel @Roadworthy KD4... is a 445A and it is a 1988, May 5th build date. (8e05B) 8=1988 E=May 05=5th day B=Day shift The model code is probably KD411F, not 0 or B. It would be a diesel...

I had a 310G Deere loader pin that I took out and cleaned. I greased the length of ot by hand and put back. It still wouldn't take grease. Not my backhoe, but before this, it had not had grease in a long time.

The 1I12D is the date code, but Ford never used 'I' in the date code. But, this is a New Holland. Anyway, 1=2001 I= Sept (9th letter=9th month) 12D=12th day G510492 is the serial number The other two numbers are the engine and transmission numbers

If you figure 20 hours, which is really liberal, @ $150/hr, that would be $3000. You should be able to split and replace both seals for quite a bit less than that because TC30s are not hard to split.

Welcome to TBN! I would think not. If the thermister was bad, it shouldn't hold. Did you try to bypass everything to see if the new solenoid would hold?

From what I see, early is before S/N: 420000.

Ha, ha! I wish you could go through the too, but no. You can just replace the seals. But, it would be a good idea to get a service manual, if you don't have one, and a. pressure gauge to measure the pressure of the system via the test port accessed through the bottom of the bell housing. It will...

Welcome to TBN! On any loader, when it seems weak, there are several things to look at first. Is your hydraulic filter clean? Does the loader hold in the lifted position and stay there? If not, the cylinders may have internal leakage. Lastly, is the pump worn out? A pressure gauge is needed...

I don't what you're talking about with the "dead man" block. Pictures would be great. Again, Paladin, if anyone, would have the numbers.

I used to have a dealership and things weren't different then. When you're talking about a 20 year old machine, high prices are not unusual. Deere and Kubota not any different. I worked with a guy that was with Dodge. He told me about junking V10 engines and transmissions for Stealth and Viper...

$789.?

No. Since the loader seals gave out after all these years, it is not surprising that the bucket cylinder seals are now leaking.

Those retaining wires are emreal fun to get out when the tail has broken off. Glad to hear you got it.

When I said pressurize the case, I was thinking of putting the air nozzle in the hole surrounded by a rag; not real a positive seal. It won't take much to prime if the pump is good.

Below 10 psi is what I would recommend. I don't think the seals would be harmed at that pressure. I wouldn't worry about the vent

1. Counterclockwise would be the direction. 2. A spanner for cylinder glands should be used, but would not budge yours HF does not carry any. 3. Penetrating oil would help, but heat can also be used to loosen up the most likely rusted gland. Don't heat too much. The only thing that you are...

A flow goes front to back. Hard to help from here. Very likely the radiator mounts are bad. Spin the new fan and shake/push the radiator front to back, side to side

You might try pressurizing the transmission/rear end through the filler hole to see if you can get the pump to prime

Agree @rScotty. Most likely leaking at that suction tube joint, and yes, it is stock! (27, 28). It could also be leaking at the filter connection(s)

It's called a top cylinder or pitch cylinder. Case calls it a pitch cylinder. The cylinder number is stamped on the top of the gland nut. For G33128 THREE-POINT HITCH PITCH CYLINDER, FOR CATEGORY I HITCH W/3/4'' DIA. MOUNTING PINS, Kit G109476 For 1976884C1 THREE-POINT HITCH PITCH CYLINDER...

#42, an adapter, PN: SBA340671391 in the 1220 picture above is what broke. In the TC21 diagram, that is referenced as #34 and is PN: SBA340673250. It is still available. I don't know why the part numbers are different as the one in the 1220 reference says it fits 1120,1215, 1220, TC18, TC21 and...

Good thing it broke where it did. They sometimes loosen up at the mounting and do damage to the case. Be sure you inspect the mounting bolts periodically.

Bad cast? After 20 years? Well, if the new one is made correctly, it should last 50 years!😅

Welcome to TBN! Stupid question first. Is it possible that you crossed some lines at the cylinders or at the steering motor?

Welcome to TBN! Bradco was bought by Paladin and is still around. Whether they have parts or not, who knows. The trencher is probably common parts. The hoe parts may be more specialized. The cylinders can be resealed by any good hydraulic shop. Ford 4000, 3 cylinder we can assume? Paladio...

I believe it is the pressure line to the 3pt top cover, #28: SBA340707320 TUBE, RIGID $98.11

If you can't get the starter to turn over by jumping at the solenoid, then the solenoid is either stuck or burned out. The starter would have to be removed.

Welcome to TBN! When you say they tapped into the hydraulics, is it now returned to original? Doesn't go up we can assume? Most likely need to take the 3pt top cover off and see what the lift puston/cylinder looks like and see if you have flow to it.

Make sure the transmission is in neutral. Touch your screwdriver to the large top post on the solenoid and the tab on solenoid.

Good question. I forgot that model also has the clutch pedal switch besides the transmission neutral switch. No PTO or seat switch

Welcome to TBN! Year is not really necessary. What questions do you have?

Sounds like the neutral start switch may be acting up, 44 in the picture. It is a printed circuit board under the shift cover. Also, when you are trying to start with the screwdriver on the starter, are you touching the top, large lug to the small tab/tang? If so and the starter motor just...

Welcome to TBN! Previous post should answer your question: https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/index.php?threads/394473/

No visual signs and not any repairs that you can do, including removing and cleaning. A leak internally would mean the valve has to be replaced.

How are you performing the pressure test?

Should be on the top shift cover

You probably want one that is fairly small/shallow. 36" is a lot on a standard backhoe and fully loaded, can shift your centervof gravity quickly if you swing too fast

Not sure you're going to get the bearing and shaft, nor do you want to have them come out. Pry the seal out, install the new one and don't disturb anything.

I'm pretty sure the ring is the seal and would just pop out. It may take a seal puller, to get it out. Just make sure you have drained enough oil that it doesn't come pouring out, but I probably don't need to tell you that.

Drain it, remove the wheel, unvolt the straps, remove the sender wires and the fuel lines.

I would think you could take some that fit a Kubota, Deere or NH like these and modify to fit your 1920. MT40279792 STABILIZER $70.04...

Welcome to TBN! Sounds like an ignition switch problem

Most likely the same bolt pattern, but the 4630 is a 3 cylinder and the 6600 is a 4 cylinder. Look at the parts book for differences in the mountings. They made mounts for both tractors for the 7410. https://www.messicks.com/nh/141796

That is a single cylinder on the LHS. The cylinder portion is 1-4. The rest is the actuator.

What do you want to know? It has a 4 cylinder Perkins. It later became a Fermec, then Terex. Not much info on industrial MF serial numbers out there.

You have water passages (oblong holes) on the other side of the bolt holes. Not sure why those holes you circled are blocked, but not to worry.

Welcome to TBN. That is a casting number for the block...raised letters. Early NAA models the serial number was on the left front of the engine block just below the head Later it was on the flat area of the bell housing just behind the starter.

I believe the only orings you will have are on each end. I don't have answer for your second question

If you have the implemrnt side of the PTO shaft, why not just get the tractor half shaft? Tube is rectangular, yes?

Welcome to TBN. I am assuming it is a 3 cylinder 4000, 4100. Here is a parts breakdown of the cylinder. Go to section 06, then 03D02 https://www.messicks.com/nh/138355

Welcome to TBN! What make and model tractor? Are the loader hydraulics separate with its own pump?

Is there a gearbox brand that you can see? Did you try: https://www.dnequipment.com/store/pc/viewbrands.asp OR https://www.brooksagparts.com/product-page/replacement-hardee-finish-mower-gearbox-code-15340-1-2-83-ratio

Welcome to TBN! Looks like a 35 series or TL. These spindle fit multiple models within the series.

Welcome to TBN! It's in the TC45 parts book under hydraulics under 2 spool remote deluxe joystick, but it's not illustrated.

Serial numbers? The prefix: 'B' Basildon, England 'C' Romeo, MI 'A' Antwerp, Belgium 'D' Canada 'Z' Mexico

Image of.....?

I’ve never heard of reboring a hydraulic cylinder. Honing yes. But really, if it is leaking internally and there is damage to the cylinder, you’ll will need to consider replacement.

Depends on what part of the country you are in, but maybe $150-200.

So when you lift the dipper up and neutralize the valve it drops? Most likely the cylinder is leaking. Cheapest, first place to look. Resealing should take care of it.

Also, unless they are bent, the chrome can be redone and you would still have the original cylinders without a lot of expense.

Well they lock in until you have pressure against them. If you had a cylinder on one of them and it bottomed out, it would kick out of the detent. The detent can be adjusted to be stiffer

The 2 lines off of that valve, inlet/outlet are just hanging and not plugged in? Yes, you could plumb through the existing remote and tie open to divert that flow through you valve, but there may be another way to plumb that valve into the system

Welcome to TBN! I don't follow why you wouldn't uncap the 4 section valve and use that instead of adding on more valves.

I don't mind. I had a Ford New Holland dealership and we worked on Massey Fergusons as well. Massey industrial sold to Fermec so we needed a parts manual as parts on the Fermec were different from the 50E. I can sell this parts manual for $50. plus shipping. As I say, it is a 600 manual

Welcome to TBN! I have a Fermec 600 book, but I believe this is the part #:3522092m1

Did you ever go ahead with a backhoe for your 445C? The loader valve does not have a power beyond, but a backhoe could be added with a little bit of plumbing depending on the backhoe you install.

Fred, Can you take a picture of that area where the hoses are hooking up? I think the one you're talking about hooks in at the side of the frame.

Glad to help and that you found it. Now let's hope you can get it to move too.

Here is the SM pages

Hmm, well that is what the parts book shows. I agree that it looks like the spool is stuck or the coils are both bad which is unlikely.

I attached both the parts drawings for the 764 backhoe hooked up to an A-Series and the C/D Series tractors. A little hard to follow, but with this and help from former TBN posters specter and 545D from an old post from 2011, the hydraulic flow goes from the pump to the backhoe and then to the...

That's what I was assuming too, but from what I've picked up from the parts diagrams for the backhoe, no it doesn't. There may also be another relief to prevent the pump from deadheading if the backhoe is not plugged in properly.

Those are actually socket head bolts requiring metric Allen wrench

Fred, That is just the loader hydraulic system. I'm working on what I think the system looks like with the backhoe. Do you have a book on the 764 backhoe that might show it? Or does someone here on the site have one? I am thinking that a quick coupler came off or separated (maybe not all the...

I sold a new tractor to a polo field with Trelleborg wide flotation tires. Great until you need to replace one that is ruined. For your tire setup that you came up with, you should be able to get away with the current rims for the front tire. May be a bit narrow, but may work. Try Unverfurth...

Perhaps the clutch switch is not showing the clutch depressed.

No special tools really. A pair of inside snap ring pliers to compress the retaining ring at the cylinder end. The tips need fit the ring holes. A good vise to hold the rod while you loosen and tighten the piston nut. A block of wood to set the rod on when taking the piston nut off so as to not...

Essentially a Shibaura S723 or S753 diesel engine

There is an oring on the head/distributor.

@thepumpguysc

What Erik said plus the chain is not going to do much at that angle. I would try to lift the back end out of the mud with the backhoe and try to drag it backwards with the loader bucket in curl (use a bungee to hold ot in curl) and the loader lift in float. Solve one problem at a time. Also...

Search for 1120, 1210, 1215, 1220, 1310. They all use the same head.

What is the backhoe on your 445C and how is it powered? Is it tied onto the tractor hydraulics or is it PTO driven

Fred, when you chained the backhoe to the loader and activated the backhoe, I assume the backhoe moved, was working. Did you move the loader lift valve at the same time you were trying to pick the loader up with the backhoe so that the loader cylinders could transfer oil out of the top of the...

This axle does not have shimmed trunnion bearings, but I am thinking that the problem is improper assembly of the hub. It could be that the shaft bearing carrier was/is not fastened in the axle tube by the set screw on top of the axle housing.

Fred, DON'T JUMP! There is no clutch adjustment, it's just a switch. When clutch is depressed, it shuts the controller off. If the pedal is out of adjustment, there is no connection to the transmission. Like I said, not sure what is going on other than the transmission is low on oil or the...

It looks like the nut has moved from the staked position and the space between the hub and axle is wider than normal. Is the hub loose now? As Harry stated, getting it tight is important, but also, getting the inside bearing seated all the way is critical.

Fred, I answered you Friday on another post about loader float from you: "Hi Fred, you should be able to push the joystick forward as if to lower the loader, beyond the lowering position into a detent. If you loader is up, push it forward and it will float down. If it doesn't, you either have...

I would say heat is the reason it isn’t coming off :). Agree, lots of penetrating fluid and put a puller on it tensioned while tapping on the shaft and gently on the hub.

One thing I would add in addition to getting the nut as tight as possible is installing the seal correctly. I have replaced this particular seal in a variety of ZF, Carraro and NH Axles over the years and have yet to have one leak. The seal is a cassette style and requires a special tool to...

Hi Fred, you should be able to push the joystick forward as if to lower the loader, beyond the lowering position into a detent. If you loader is up, push it forward and it will float down. If it doesn't, you either have broken parts or rust in the lift spool cap.

Coastal Tractor, Salinas works with a local fabricator to build. The original Ford 7610 Mudder Tractor was developed there too.

Did you get an answer? Engine is straightforward. Transmission and rear end are pipe plugs underneath.

Looks right.

Skiploaders (545A/C/Ds) are made for dirt moving, construction, etc. Extremely good at doing that type of work and built low profile to be able to grade better. When you move to other Ford tractors, your other options are tractor backhoes or ag tractors. Ag tractors are built very strong, but...

The "weighted contraption" spins with the shaft. The "tombstone" meshes into the sleeve on 2 grooves. The sleeve is stationary. The picture shows 2 grooves at the end and that is where the "tombstone" catches it, but the picture shows the "tombstone" in the wrong place. It should be at the end.

The transmission oil is independent of the rear end oil and the hydraulic system. The transmission filter is the one on the LH side of the transmission.

Here is an inquiry similar to yours: https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/threads/howard-slip-clutch-springs.413119/ Howard slip clutch springs

The governor plate slips over the shaft and pushes on the governor ring. See illustration. Other than that, it sounds like the spring came off of the metering valve or it is in the wrong hole

Welcome to TBN! Try: https://southern-global.com/shop/engine-parts/fuel-system/injector-assembly-rebuilt/

No other place for fuel to enter the crankcase, but through the injection pump

What model Howard is ot?

If age versus function is the issue, I pick function in this case. You can always keep the Summit valve as a backup, but the Ford valve is pretty nice, plus it is a joystick which speeds usability.

When did you change the transmission filter last. Also, there is an inlet screen on this transmission that is supposed to be cleaned, but hardly anyone does. I'm thinking that it might be a flow issue. It would affect both directions though

I found this, but not sure this is yours: B Clutch cal too low − RPM dropped too soon, clutch pressure is not being controlled properly or something else caused RPM to drop

Welcome to TBN, from California

Strange. Could be the F/R shifter, but again acts like heat related. As LouNY asked, what kind of oil and what condition is it in? Could be the reverse solenoid or valve giving you fits.

Most likely the brake piston in the rear end is leaking into the axle as you have stated there are no external leaks. You could measure the oil on the dipstick for the rear end/hydraulics, but you have pretty much ruled out anything else.

I have much experience with them as well, but kingpins are the lesser problem with them. That axle without the reversing box is used in a variety of models of Fords and other manufacturers. Rear axle puvot is the Achilles Heal on the skiploaders with that reversing box.

When the conditions are too muddy, but the vegetables need to be harvested

?? The expensive repair on a 3,4 or 545A/C/D front end is when the rear axle pivot is not greased. The thin oring gets dirt in it and tears allowing the front axle oil to leak out. The reversing gearbox gears are hard to get and $$$, that is if you haven't lost the ring and pinion too. Don't...

Easiest, cheapest way would be to remove the Westendorf valve and put quick coupler tips on loader hoses. This would utilize the NH joystick valve. If hoses aren't long enough, make new hoses.

Ford put the reversing gearbox on the front axle to get that lower profile, otherwise you could run more like a backhoe profile or Ag tractor profile. Not many ways to go, but possibly a 28" rear would work.

Have been able to narrow down your problem?

Welcome to TBN! Sorry no one answered you. Did you find it or do you still need help?

Yes, you will get bubbles at the hard line if you have air. BTW. I was a dealer and I have a 1910 myself and I have not had problems bleeding it. One thing you should do is fill the tank at least 3/4 full

If you had a New Holland or Case dealer nearby, they are Small, SBA052100160 metric oring (SIZE (DASH) NUMBER P16 INSIDE DIAMETER 15.8 +/-0.20 SECTION DIAMETER 2.4 +/-0.09 LINEAR DIMENSION UNITS MM O-RING MATERIAL: SYNTHETIC RUBBER NBR OR EQUIVALENT(MINERAL OIL RESISTANCE, SPRING...

Welcome to TBN! It shoul be Napa FIL 3048. There is an oring on the stem of the filter and one on the bowl that should be replaced, but may get by without replacing.

To get a float valve and also give you some versatility, you would be best to install a hydraulic diverter block and an external spool valve(s) with a float...

Sounded like air getting in somewhere until the end of your story. Take an injector out, attach to a fuel line and see if you get a decent spray pattern out of it. Careful you don't have any spark source or open flame around when you do this and keep your hand away from the nozzle.

Do these kits have a float position?

It appears they both are the same 17 tooth gear making it 1:1 ratio. This is listed as a set, but price seems too cheap. Call Messicks to verify: 717-367-1319 6122BH GEAR MINTER SET $188.72

Welcome to TBN! Do you only have one hydaulic pump on your tractor? Have you already looked at the kits online?

Using the original idler pulley mounted on an adjustable arm, I don't see why it wouldn't, but the original swing arm tensioner with a spring would be pretty easy to fabricate

It is 1:4 increaser for 540 pto. If you went to the manufacturer of the gearbox, it would be less money for parts. Dana make increasers in many ratios, but if I were going to replace the box as a whole, I would go with a 1000 rpm pto 1:2 ratio.

As a percentage of the total lift of that loader, that is quite a lot, but not my tractor

Yes they are. As MT Green said, Alexander Tractor. Also try Gulf South Equipment Sales Parts for Tractors & Heavy Machinery or Salvage Tractors Archives

There is no brake. Several sources in the US, but not much help for you. Korea or Japanese market would be closer, https://www.finaldrivemotors.com/Kobelco-SK025-Final-Drive-Motor-p/sk025kob.htm