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You do realize that the one I linked is the electric Dremel style with .125" collet size? I do have the HF die grinder, 3" cutter and 90 degree die grinder for roloc discs and am quite happy with them as well.

I see in the latest round of coupons they have the Variable speed rotary tool on sale, I have this exact one and it's a keeper. It has it's own case so you can keep accessories with it, I use it quite a bit.

That looks like a bearing race retainer, or part of one. I'd check the brush hog and see if any spindles are about to come apart.

It could be a bad cell in the battery, check the voltage at the battery terminals when engaging the starter. If it drops, bad cell. If it stays at 6+v, check the connections at the terminals, starter connections, and solenoid, if separate, and ground. Take note of the cable condition as well...

It appears that the new seal doesn't have any rubber contact with the shaft, I don't see how it can keep from seeping, unless there is a rubber contact area on the back that I can't see. I can understand the full metal cover, as that would keep long grass or twine that got wound up from...

Test the contact points in the bulb socket with a DMM, if you don't get any voltage reading, try a different ground point. If you get voltage, the fixture had a bad ground, if you don't get voltage, you need to chase the wiring upstream to find the fault. It'll probably be in a loom, so check...

I think that a lot of the maligning of HF stuff is from people who are incapable of doing repair or modification. Those of us who can will look at something and say 'it's a good starting point, but it needs a gusset here... or this needs to be sleeved...' and it's good. Cali, I highly doubt...

Eric, just a point of clarity, if you use a screwdriver to jump the big terminals you are essentially bypassing the solenoid and putting battery power directly into the starter motor. If it doesn't spin then, especially if voltage is present at the cable terminal I would suspect that there...

When you tested it with a wire, you did get power from the bottom terminal with the battery cable, correct? That should have activated it, if it just clicked and didn't engage and start turning the engine over, that would be an issue with the solenoid not allowing the main terminals to bridge...

Sounds like the battery. Clip the test leads to the battery, with the machine off it will read 13v. Turn to start and watch the drop, if it immediately drops to 9v or less that's a good indication it's shot.

Shoot a little WD in the key switch, most dirty switches are more off than on, but it won't hurt. Check the battery terminals for corrosion between them and the posts, also check where the ground cable connects to the frame. If the starter has an onboard solenoid, it could be crudded up with...

It looks like you have port mount gauges rather than panel mount, those type are usually installed in a bushing on stationary equipment. There is a recess in the gauge pictured, perhaps you could cut a semicircle groove into your mounting board an use a dowel as kind of a key to keep it from...

Now you've got the old carb to experiment on, if something goes awry it won't be a big deal. Most small engine carb issues I've run across are from a partially plugged main jet (in the housing that the bowl securing bolt screws into), and cleaning it out with a tip cleaner sorts it.

Is there any reason that you can't flip it over and set it on sawhorses so you can get to everything easily? I would do that, and tack weld a long bar on the stump jumper and put a cheater on the breaker bar, pull the two toward each other. If you have help, maybe an air hammer with a dull...

Somewhere on the tank there should be a triangle symbol with a number in it, that will tell what type of plastic it is, and what rod is required. You might find that info on a replacement tank listing in the parts book if you can't find it without removing a bunch of stuff.

So a 49 million rise in premiums across the board for Kaiser then.

1st check would be battery post/terminals are clean and there is a good ground connection to the negative lead.

I'd start with the tag just to the right of the main gearbox. Maybe post a close up of it and it can be located that way.

If you can give me the ID, OD and width (or height) of the bearings and seals I might be able to find them in my big cross reference books.

A permanent mount where you can get all around it would eat up too much floor space, so I made a quick slide on base for one of my fork extensions. Doesn't take long to set up, is solid enough to use easily and tucks away in little space when not in use, which of course is most of the time.

A ratcheting box end of the correct size should work on that, you might try an obstruction wrench. If the tailwheel bracket is welded on, it would be easier to take a hole saw and cut an access hole in the deck so you can get at it from underneath with a socket and extension.

It looks like it has a cable that pulls an idler pulley to tension the drive belt, chances are that the cable is gummed up, or has stretched and there doesn't seem to be any adjustment for it. It could also be the idler pulley bracket is gummed up and don't want to move. The idler pulley may...

It sounds like a safety switch issue, test the start terminal on the ignition switch for +12v, then test the wire to the starter solenoid. If there isn't +12v, there is a safety circuit preventing it. The safety nannies will piss orange juice, but I'd advise running a wire direct from the...

It looks like the bakelite housing will come off the back of that solenoid. You should be able to take it apart and clean the copper bolts and plunger. If it's a direct short, the plunger is probably slightly spot welded to one of the bolts by arcing and will free up and work normally when...

It doesn't make sense, the holes do caliper out different that the numbers they give, but that's what they're listed as. I have the big ones because Datsun used them on the pickup wheels for some reason.

Type in loader in the select model box, then compact tractor from the menu.

Is this it?

Sounds like a piece of heat shrink tube on the brake pin would be good insurance, if it would allow the case to close, some of them have pretty tight tolerances.

I'll bet sorting this one was fun...

Not finding that specific model, but you might have a nose-about here and see if there is anything that looks close. A lot of time the layout and build patterns are the same across model lines so you can suss it out from a similar book.

Any outfit that wants a down payment for a quote needs to be avoided at all cost as that's a red flag as big as Texas.

Having a little leeway on that could help if you have a shaft that is scored from the seal. You should be able to tell where it ran based on the mark, even if it isn't scored, if it originally ran flush with the outside and setting it back can run on a smoother part of the shaft, go for that...

I see that my go-to site seems to have purged everything Cat from the menu, might try this one and see if it pans out.

It's probably too new to be a 743, so it will have some degree of electronics and computer stuff, hopefully not the hand controls as those give people fits. At any rate, it's worth it just as an investment in parts. Join skidsteerforum.com for manuals and all kinds of expertise on whatever...

Quick search shows the 951 at Walmart for under $10, the 961 on ebay for $8 and change. No luck on the other, but might check Digi-Key or similar. I'm sure someone's already posted a link.

That actually looks like part of on of those heads that take the three nylon blades that would fit the holes. I have a Craftsman branded head on one I'm working on that was designed for single line.

All the set screw checks above, then put a 3 jaw puller on and snug it up. Air hammer with a pulley driver or ground flat chisel, couple of bursts on the side of the pulley. See if the puller will snug up any more. That's the best way to go about it without damaging anything, once it starts...

Looks like a Sonalert, you probably won't be able to get the ring to secure it without buying the whole unit. A small ring of latex caulk will hold it in place, especially if the wires are tied off as well. They really should put a switch on them, so they can be turned off when you're by...

Possibly add it to the watched list and access it through the find threads menu at the top?

It's quite possible the first tank valve is a 1427C, as the catalog linked showed just the valve to be a 1427B. That repair was successful, as it held a full tank over winter, inside the shop where any leaks would have been readily apparent. Since I was unable to find anyone that had...

Here's another valve problem from a different tank, this one wouldn't shut off all the way and you'd get a waft of propane when you walk by, and it managed to leak off nearly a full tank over winter. It appears that the teflon seat might have too much wear in it, have been unable to locate any...

Grok's thoughts on it, I tend to agree... For the best lifespan of a silver/black tarp, use it silver side up. The silver side is typically designed to reflect UV rays and heat, which helps protect the tarp material from degradation caused by prolonged sun exposure. This can extend the tarp's...

They should be the same, I have big books of cross ref for bearings, seals and belts and there are several brand names for the same spec'd item.

We built a Bobcat trailer at work, the triangle section at the front was boxed in with a lid for chains and binders. Probably not as important on a trailer that isn't shared or used by crews, when I wired it I put a weatherproof box at the front of the binder bin. The trailer wiring was ran...

ATF and acetone is what everyone recommends for freeing stuff like this. After it set for a while, I'd use your setup pictured and give a few light taps with an air hammer with a pulley driver, on one of the legs, just to deliver shocks to the fused joint. Then see if the puller will snug up...

If you still have the old starter, lay them side by side and compare. Often times, the 'exact replacement' might be for two or three revisions later and be slightly different.

That Dexstar has a slightly smaller center hole, so it would take a bit of die grinder work to make it fit.

A quick look at a manual indicates that it is indeed driven off the cam, possibly the connection holding the driven gear to the pump shaft has loosened,where the cam spins the gear but not the pump. Another option could be that the pickup tube from the sump came loose, I'd not suspect the...

I'm running Stoddard in mine. Many years ago there was a Shell distributor up in Woodburn that had it on a pump for like $1.53 a gallon. Took two 15 gallon plastic drums up. Wish that still existed.

We did these all the time, estimator would make a templet for the spacing and angles for the slope and any curves during the run. I'd make that one out of 1.625" tube, should only need three posts set if it's as short a run as it looks. Auger out the holes first, so if you encounter a rock or...

Since the battery has been replaced, I'm assuming there is no corrosion on the cable ends? I would unplug the voltage reg and plug it back in, might be enough corrosion in the connector to kill it.

Do you have an air hammer? I've had pretty good luck using that with a pulley driver to get stuck stuff apart where sheer pulling force and big hammers just bend things. Something about the rapid blows with a little pressure on it gets things to move.

Yeah, that one stood out for me as well. But every time I tell myself I'd do well on there I have to think that I'd end up with categories like opera, European philosophers and Shakespeare instead of radial engines, machine shop, and things I'd like to do with Jan, from the Toyota commercials...

Put them at the end of the road with a free sign on them, post on craigslist / marketplace where they are and will remove post when gone. If that doesn't work, replace the free sign with $25 each, people will be compelled to steal them even if they don't want them because they perceive that...

Put a regulator on it and fill a balloon to test for density. Unregulated, tip on side and blast some out so you have ice, put it in water and see if it carbonates. That will confirm / exclude helium and CO2

I don't go through a lot, so I use a half gallon plastic whiskey jug. Got a small beaker from AS&S that's marked at 1oz, and a plastic kitchen measure. Make 40 oz of 40:1, easy to shake and mix, easy to see how much is left, and easy to tell it from the straight gas. And easy to fill small tanks.

Measure the width of the plastic part of the rubber blade; I got tired of trying to find refills and got them on ebay. 6mm inserts 26" long for busses were .99 a pair, cut to fit. I got six sets so I'm set for a long time.

Magic, who adopted me a few years ago, and her kitten The Gray One, who tops the scale at over twelve pounds now.

I had an old yellow HF heat gun that failed, now have the red and black one that works fine, for some time now. I use it for heat shrink tube so it doesn't get run for long periods of time though.

Search or ask over at Ratsun, that's where all the Datsun people ended up.

An internal leak will allow the force to push the piston down; the oil in the back is now in the front part of the cylinder. Since they are plumbed together before the valve, the cylinders will tend to equalize, thus the good cylinder will gain and lose oil via the other side until the force is...

That's where the 10 ton HF portable hydraulic kit would come in handy. Put a big wood block or similar at the base so the other side doesn't get bent, should rough it out pretty easy. Use heavy flat bar and big C clamps with heat to get it back to nearly straight.

He was in the Comanche with Cowboy Copas and Patsy Cline.

I saw that kit on Amazon and Walmart while looking for a manual for it. I'm sure that somewhere in the docs it says to replace the sprocket clutch drum with the pulley one and keep the clutch. Otherwise you add to the rotating mass making it harder to start, plus you'll always have a live...

The pulley is half of the centrifugal clutch that is probably proprietary to your saw, or at least very niche. What I'd do is keep the original sprocket hub, grind down the teeth so you can position a pulley off an alternator or other similar diameter that is drilled out to fit. Position it...

When I first moved here, I worked at a fab shop that made helicopter parts. I needed to get my own tools; fortunately Sears had a sale a couple months later for a huge mechanics tool set plus roll around and top box. $641.26 early in 1979. Still have it, along with another Sears box set with a...

If you've ever spent any time around a grounded welding table, you'll notice that there is often a spark between the work and the table when an arc is struck, that can happen inside a bearing if the current passes through it, causing a pit, and subsequent early failure. That's why people...

I saw the title and immediately thought of that episode. When you don't have enough need for a dedicated facility and can batch you projects it seems like a pretty good solution.

There should be a label on the pump saying what to charge the system with.

I've got a lot of old stuff kicking around. Have three original IBM XTs, a bootable 8088 in the shop, bootable Win 98 and XP machines. Keeping with the theme, here is a Bondwell, t powers up but probably needs a cmos battery to boot. Main battery is toast, of course but the charger will start it.

Pontiac Vibe 5 speed and a Toyota SR5. And my cousin's Honda Fit wagon with a five speed while she's traveling in Europe.

Weld the holes mostly full and re-drill it. If it get a lot of hammering and wallows out fairly easily, weld a thick washer the same ID on the outside to thicken it up. If it really wallers, find a drill bushing the size of the shear bolt and punch it out to fit it.

Since you know the size and thread, go to the hardware store and get some in both lengths. Or just get the long ones and enough thick washers to shim if they bottom out.

M12x1.25 x30

Quick search found one site with RG, nearly 1700 for a drum. Might check with these guys and see if it's a good alternative.

If it were mine, I'd test it for snags with a nylon rag or open palm. Knock any sharps off with a 2" disk then use a surface conditioning belt to buff it up. Internal pits might wick out a minute amount of fluid, but shouldn't cut up the seals.

Have you checked to see if a hydraulic shop can make up a new rod? That would likely be cheaper than two cylinders, unless they can be bought at scrap price.

That would work great for a man basket, where you need to go high but don't have the weight issue. If you have racking, you'd want to put the heavier stuff in the lower tiers anyway, so other than having to swap machines occasionally it should be fine. Here's my full 8' fork extentions, I...

It must be the perspective - those forks look longer than the eight footers I made for mine. Since we both have 5k lifts, I imagine that they're similar in size/weight.

Eddy, think of series as flow. You can measure fluid pressure by putting a gauge on a line, but to get the flow you need to have it going into and out of the gauge, or in this case, DMM. A switch is a series item, just think of the amp feature as replacing a switch in the circuit and it will...

I have Tracfone as well, had to update phones a couple times due to network upgrades, but my current one was only $30 and is a smart phone. Some time ago I got the lifetime triple minutes option, so every year I get more time and text than I can use for around $100, and it carries over. Having...

According to Messick's site, this kit should fit your loader. Here's a Google search of the part number with some more options.

You might try ebay, especially if you have the OEM part number to cross check. I did that for my Bobcat lift cylinders, under $30 for both, and look exactly like all the other online kits.

I just went out and measured my mast, it is 85.5" from the ground to the top, just a shade over 7'. It won't fit inside my shop, but it did fit inside a neighbor's garage when we moved a piece of equipment in. He now has a Clark with a three stage mast that is lower than the rops so it will...

It sounds like two gears are engaged at the same time, locking up the tranny. The wheels going in opposite directions is the differential not turning the input shaft.

I had a couple of late tomatoes that I brought inside before the frost as they had a couple of green to ripen. When they ripened and died, I put some seeds in as a test since last year's starts were so abysmal. So far looking better than the seed start mix/potting soil that I usually do.

A cheap and easy tilt meter is a level app for your phone, with a spare case mounted somewhere, or a strip of velcro on your case to the dash if you don't want to swap it all the time. There might even be an actual app for that, haven't looked. Edit: I did take a look and there are in fact...

Is there a reason that you can't just mount a fairlead at the front of the trailer and use the rear hitch mount on the pickup for the winch?

Definitely need the pneumatic tires for gravel and working on the lawn. Here's my Hyster H50 that I got from work for $500, they were going to ship it off to the auction. I made a set of 8' fork extensions for more versatility, along with a man basket. Only drawback is documentation is hard to...

Scrolling through Nextdoor (aka Karenville), the amount of posts from people looking for someone to perform some ridiculously simple repair task is scary. Noone is capable of doing anything for themselves anymore, it seems. We used to have a thing called Repair Fair, where people with repair...

My cousin has a Honda Fit with electric steering; I was taking it to the airport to pick her up when the electrical system went nutso, gauges cutting in and out and radio and lights flickering until it all finally went dead. The car kept running, and the steering was very similar to a failed...

This was in today's paper, happened this morning on the back way from Salem to Independence.

As others have noted, it appears that it is a lined block, so pulling the liner should give access to the inside of the hole. Since it missed the water jacket, it would be able to be threaded, if a tap size is available, or if not a rod could be sized to be pressed it with some sealant. In...

It's probably not a press fit, try rocking it while pulling up on it, or gently tapping near the hub with a soft face hammer while lifting.

When I worked at the photo lab, every time they'd get a new piece of equipment to replace something, maintenance would clear all the spare parts for that item to make room for the new stuff; they'd just box them up for me and I'd take them home. Bearings, rollers, switches, all kinds of stuff...

From the pics, it looks like that red depth probe goes all the way into a cylinder, which would make repairs pretty difficult. If it's a sleeved engine, you might be able to punch out the outside hole a bit bigger so you can tap the inner one for a plug, seal it good with JB or braze, smooth it...

I haven't seen anyone mention Oil Eater yet, used to could get it at Costco but it's online and probably cheaper. Scrape the worst of the grease off with a trowel, spray some on full strength and scrub with a dollar store brush after a couple minutes and rinse out. Should get it clean enough...

For mounting tires I have one of those HF clip on chucks with the guts removed so it blows all the time. Seat the bottom bead as best you can, clip the air up to the valveless fill stem, and use both hands to lift the top bead into place. Works most of the time to get beads seated, then put...

So the Timkin numbers confirm the listing I posted above, you might try some of those numbers in a general search. Rock Auto has a listing for them, but out of stock, you might hit the notify me link for when they get them in again. For pressing bearing races I mostly use sockets; between std...

Might have a look here, and see if anything is close enough to work.

+1 on the air hammer, either with a dull chisel on the tool or a pulley driver at the joint where the head threads in. Another set of hands helps immensely on tasks like this.

Since it still works, chances are it can be fixed with a reseal kit. If time allows, I think the best thing would be to take it apart, check to make sure none of the hard parts have any wallering out or erosion that can't be fixed with seals. That will also give an idea of what the correct kit...

They don't have that model listed, but you might find something close here. Often times shared architecture and components span models and can be sussed out.

If you can get the dimension of the seal that is already in there, I can look it up in my IBI book and possibly get a list of part numbers.

As near as I can find, this should be a list of valid options. Dimensions are given so you can get the calipers and see if this is the correct group.

I've got a bottle of bubble-blowing soap that a neighbor was throwing out during a move, grabbed it for the shop for tire use. Makes the leaks quite visible. On tires that sit for long times without rotating, a lot of bead leaks might come from itinerant cats passing through and marking...

Just saw that Phil Lesh died, jamming with Jerry and Pigpen now.

First test would be to ohm out the big terminals, it should be infinite with it off the starter. If there is zero or little resistance, I would suspect that the disc has arced against the contacts and is not releasing, which would give the condition indicated. Unfortunately, the solenoid...

It looks like a solenoid relay, like on an aircraft master switch or motorhome disconnect. I had a neighbor that had a MH with a latching relay for both coach and chassis, one of them was sticky and needed several cycles of the rocker switch to either get it to turn off or turn on, can't...

You might have a nose-about here, and in the M-F section as well, to see if anything might be close.

Couple days ago I replaced the seals in the Bobcat's lift cylinders; one of them was leaving a steady stream of oil everywhere it went. Wasn't that difficult, other than a couple times where another set of hands would have been nice.

Closest that I could find in my big book of cross references.

Some time ago a neighbor dropped off a saw that he was tired of fussing with, finally got around to looking at it. Stripped the bar and covers to look / clean things, the only obvious problem I could see was that the snap in primer bulb was missing. Since I needed one a while back, I order a...

The locksmith is a good idea, might measure it with a calipers and thread gauge just in case there are differences out there. In the mean time, maybe find a pvc pipe close in ID to the outside and hog it out so it can will take threads. Not perfect, but it should keep it from falling through...

That reminds me of last night - I had listed an old freezer, a portable dishwasher and some other junk on marketplace, someone came by in a car about the size of my Vibe, with what looked like a large box of some kind on the roof already. I don't know how, but they managed to get everything...

Chances are that the main bearings are worn enough that it bleeds oil pressure at idle below the 5 or 10 psi threshold of the switch for the light, as you've found upping the idle a bit gives enough psi boost to keep it off. Going to a thicker oil would help, but depending on climate could...

The early to mid 70's Datsuns had about a 5/8" flat bar at the bottom of the spring pack that kept it from bottoming out. I've still got a trailer made from a '75 standard bed.

If a cheater bar won't move it, I'd try putting it under stress by reefing on it and having a helper give it a few blasts from an air hammer with a pulley driver against the socket. If you don't have help available, preload the cheater with a jack.

IMDB says Discovery+, but it can be readily found elsewhere.

The replacement looks like the bakelite end cap is swedged on, if the original has machine screws holding it together it can be taken apart and cleaned. Often the square head copper bolts will erode from arcing, they can be carefully tapped out, cleaned, and put back with the new part facing in.

More talk on the possibility of S05 and beyond from RT. In other news, S04E01 of Richard Hammond's Workshop dropped yesterday, if you follow that as well.

I think that one of the reasons that manufacturers have such a hard-on against ROPS alteration is they have to consider the lowest common factor, the mouth breathing troglodyte who'll cut a big notch out for something without reinforcement, or shorten it and refasten with TEK screws instead of...

Check for spark. If none, check any Darwin switches that might be there for blade or seat positions, if they ring out I'd look to see if the oil switch wire has a short to ground somewhere. If you don't have a wiring diagram, you might find one on manualsonline or manualslib, makes it a lot...

A quick and dirty test would be to put a ring terminal on a scrap of wire and fold the other end over so it goes into the spade terminal, do a test and see if it runs. If it does, change the wire terminal to a ring.

Went to one of his shows when they filmed in Portland. It was outside and of course in rained, must have been '79 or '80.

I would see if I could scrounge a section of the same material from another trailer, either at a scrap yard or ask around at marinas for possible leads. If you can't get the bend part, a straight section can be bent by cutting little wedges out and matching to the other side. Properly done and...

I'm sure that everyone's seen the 30% off items $10 or less, finally went and got some of those piddling items I've needed for a while, like super glue, small pick set, etc. Found a closeout on knotted wire wheels for angle grinders and picked up a few of them. The coupon states it's only good...

Harbor Freight has inexpensive IR temp guns, often on coupon sales. You should keep the thermostat in, it helps get the engine up to operating temp quicker and keeps it in range where it likes to run best.

I've picked up a lot of good stuff over the years, but a nice recent find was a Bissell carpet cleaner, the hot water one for pets. They were setting it out for garbage pickup so I asked for it, just for the long cord for a grinder. They said it just quit working; when I tested it I found that...

Between the human flaggers in the fields and gps, there was the automatic flagman system that came out in the early 70's, I believe. A heavy cardboard trapezoidal base with two streamers of toilet paper-like material in a chute on top of one wing within the propwash to pressurize it so there...

If it leaks while sitting, that would be the shaft seal. The oil level should be below the case half gasket. Parts diagram

Since the fuel system is where you made the changes, probably. First thing to check is the pickup tube, is it longer than the one that came out, and does it have cutouts on the bottom edge so it can still get flow if it's on the bottom of the tank. Also, if you replaced it because it was broken...

Nylon just refers to the material in the belting, aka steel-belted radial. That was a less expensive alternative in the early days of radial tire development, I think it may have been pretty much done away with by the dominance of steel belting, but hopefully some tire guys can chime in with...

Just a guess, but it appears that the edges on the right indicates it broke there, so it could be a swing away hose cradle that can be unpinned and moved for access. Look around for a hinged section that would match those edges.

If it hasn't been an issue with getting them filled, don't worry about it. My two forklift tanks are waaaay out of date and I've had no problems. I could see it being an issue if you went to a distributor, or had them filled on site, as that could be a cya issue for them if something went...

If you have a charger that won't start charging an extremely discharged battery, you can fool it with another battery and jumper cables. Doesn't take too long to get a charge going and you can remove the second one.

I'm a big advocate of the HF assortments as well. When you run across a problem like that it's far easier to just go to the shelf and get the part than have to make a special trip or put it aside until you're out and about to source one.

I'd suspect some part of the fuel delivery system is getting too hot and giving a vapor lock condition. Check if anything runs close to an exhaust manifold or hot component, also, some vehicles had heat shields at the base of the carb, so if that's missing or damaged it could be an issue (if...

Proper prep is everything for powder coating. Most of the adherence problems come from the chemical dip cleaning process, that's less than ideal. The best results we got were from an outfit that would sandblast everything and flash it right before shooting. Not having any sharp corners helps...

I'd bet that the opening is just gunked up with stuff and it's not getting full flow to the diaphragm to open the switch. I'd take it out and carefully clear it with the blunt end of a toothpick, or some other non-pointy object.

I'd unplug every connector and check for corrosion, and spray some tuner cleaner (or equiv) in the wire speed pot and cycle it a few times to clear any gunk. In addition to other cable checks outlined above. Another thing is the tip; if it has a micro-berry inside it it can work fine when cold...

Will the drum be used upright or on it's side normally? If it's on it's side, I would bend some flat bar and plug weld it to the thin material and tack it pretty good to the rims. Put all your runner supports and tow points on the heavier material. The plug welds will keep you from blowing...

If you can root through the scrap bin for materials to fix it up for just a little time and welding, that's a no-brainer. You'll have a usable implement for the cost of a replacement bit, which can be a good used one.

Yeah, you'd have to be pretty thick not to notice the similarities. Clarkson said some stuff that rubbed the wrong set of hatchet-faced, weaned on lemons malcontents the wrong way and they're throwing everything they can to impede him. I guess lawfare knows no boundaries. I doubt that he would...

More like 3, each episode is 45 minutes +- Two eps in and it's still marvelous.

Empirical evidence indicates that this is a problem with the hub itself. Maybe there is a hairline crack in the outer bore that allows the cap to work out due to force redistribution during rotation. If close inspection and a dye pen test doesn't show anything, swap sides and see if the...

If it has the small can type solenoid on the starter, chances are that the big contacts for the battery cables are eroded or crudded up. You can take the bakelite end cap off and clean everything up, and carefully tap out the square head copper bolts and turn them 180 degrees so the new edges...

I knew that there was a 500 electric, but not others. They are a very limited market, some warehouses, ship's holds, etc., where they operate only in a highly limited area. I would imagine that the basic machines would be the same; the electric wouldn't have a fuel tank, battery box and wiring...

I've got an extra propane tank that I quit using since it has a leak in the shutoff valve, especially when going from closed to open or vice-versa. It's a Sherwood PV 14270. Can't find any online info on it re: repair parts. Have an email into Sherwood, but here's the question. There is a...

Season three of Clarkson's Farm to drop on May 3rd and 10th.

Was spreading out a pile of gravel for the across the street neighbor last Thursday, the calcium finally got the leaking rear tire. Found a set of foam filled tires on FB for $150 so I should be good to go now. Those rims were a ticking time bomb when I brought it home 15 years ago, guess I...

If it has the can type solenoid on the starter, and it's doing the "click,click, etc 50 or 60 times then starts" routine, you can take it apart, carefully tap out the square head copper bolts in the bakelite end, clean them, and the plunger on a wire wheel and reassemble with the new sections of...

A quick search shows those with a pulsa-jet carb already installed for under $25. Mower shop scrapyard and free off craigslist or FB could possibly net some results, although those are pretty old and have largely been cycled out of regular service.

One more thing which I'm sure you already know, but when you splice the horizontals together, make the splices so they meet in the middle of an upright, and the top and bottom at opposite ends of the gate. Another reason for 2x all around, 2-24' sticks will do most of the spans, 1 more will do...

The .120" wall seems a bit excessive, as with the 2x4 bottom as the structure gets its strength more from design than the material, per se. If the extra cost isn't an issue and for aesthetics, you can use the heavier materials for peace of mind; the extra weight won't be an issue. The...

I've built scads of cantilever gates, all the way up to 57'. You've got the right idea, we'd generally go 2/3 - 1/3 for the bays. I'd recommend having three six foot bays for the opening and two smaller for the tail. For something that small, I'd use 2x2 .095 for the outer framework and .065...

The Honda p/n appears to be available on ebay for around $19, but you've found the SB-48 equiv which seems too large. Is there an adjustable idler that can be repositioned to take up some slack? That would be my angle of attack, either modify it to work with the belts you have in hand by...

If it is worn, it will still work; my forklift has that issue, it will still turn fine but has a tendency to want to groundloop while going forward at speed. Just need to stay on top of it, with a hand instead of feet. I've got a .pdf repair manual with diagrams, need to research what type of...

It seems that the smart thing would be to have a labeled off road tank in the bed, and have it plumbed into a fuel select valve so the main tank remains pure.

Might get lucky and not have to remove it, if you can reach it with air. Pick the front end up with the loader and pull the valve core, then use a chuck with the valve removed to get extra air in to seat the bead. I've got one of the HF clip on chucks with the guts out for seating beads, then...

If you can find an o-ring the same diameter as the formed one, you might be able to glue it in with permatex and hold it with clamps until it sets up enough to go back together without jumping the groove. Failing that, maybe clean the existing o-ring and grooves good, paint a thin line of...

I think they only pick up ADS-B out, which is why something like a DC-3 going over won't show up, but probably has a transponder, as well as an Escort 110.

Saw this little oddity the other day, there are a bunch of R-22s that do RWI out of Hillsboro, several of them had this trailing image that had the same n-number (minus the n). They have a slightly different profile than the single returns, anyone know what they are or have any theories?

You might have a look here in the Jimma section and see if anything's close enough to be helpful.

As near as I can tell, the belt number is 7389240. You can go to bobcatpartsonline and find the breakdown for that mower model and s/n range.

When I worked at a sawmill back in the 70's, the carrier op would often doss off for long periods of time and when the green chain bays would fill up I'd have to give this rig a go. Hopefully without dumping the load due to not grabbing the bunks properly, that's a right mess.

I looked in both the Wisconsin and Bobcat parts books and couldn't find reference to a spacer, just a gasket, QC71A

I like the terminal ends that you solder on, they tend to stand up more like a factory cable than most of the bolt ons. It seems that most of the newer stuff comes with the small steel band terminals. My cousin had a corrosion problem on her Honda Fit; when I cleaned the posts and terminal ends...

I don't use the ignore, to me that would be like tearing pages out of a book. It's easy for me to skip over them, and I've found that I while I might think that they're wronger than a wrong thing, there is no way that I'll ever convince them otherwise so it's best to just not engage and move...

I don't see ads, but when I built mine the OSHA ones were around $600, so I suppose the Chicom ones would be considerably less. I made mine with scrap I had laying around and I'd wager it's more secure than the tailor-mades, at least the ones that I've seen.

I've got three of them, you can still get carb kits and probably other parts on ebay.

If you have facebook you might want to join the =AZXQytCCADP5AGJkveJo9nFTXG_vyiuT3gKJ2pYO_vibsLiFPwrlE-B1qlQpxFJeHatGDUH8wdU3hi8F_4tm3EMznQN_3S-aNjjRbGjXJqSHuz38PAbh-cTU_cTca13h3MIr2XS_khN3NqGvs1HJxVIWUodcfuI29H3IKlpt4EozPRxBkvdn6MwdHS3rbBUGDOg&__tn__=-UC%2CP-R']Melroe Owners group, otherwise...

It shouldn't be an issue when trailering, any more than expired plates would be on a trailered vehicle. I guess it would depend on how determined they are to shake revenue out of motorists. I can see the problem of having a SMV sign on a trailer that is usually pulled by a tractor but might...

Found the cause of the problem and it didn't cost anything to remedy it - that's a definite win in my book.

Just guessing blind here, but I think the solenoid is for the shielding gas, not drive motor related. The trigger switch should activate both; I'd get in with a DMM and see if the motor was getting voltage when the trigger pressed and go from there. Could be a breaker or fuse somewhere.

There is a .pdf for a Case 585 here.

I saw a boat come off in downtown Salem some years ago. It was on an intersection where the cross street was crowned higher so it had a noticeable hump when going over, energy release was obviously more than the restraints. My dad had a 23' Uniflite, and he was concerned about it coming off so...

One thing you might look at is the emergency lift lowering valve; it could have some effect on this. Seems like a likely suspect as drive and tilt work okay, and it's not part of the normal operating envelope.

Pitt Auto Electric has a vast library of Wisconsin literature, as well as parts for them. I'd suggest downloading the VH4D manual and checking out the alternator troubleshooting section.

Taking the welder out of the equation complicates things, but it can be done with pieces of angle iron for brackets and lots of drilling and bolting... Do you have a SSQA where you can drop the bucket and put another implement on? If so, you could make a blade from an old barrel and some square...

Not sure if it's just a Vizio thing, but there is a watch free channel that is nothing but old BBC Top Gear shows. A good go to for filler. There is also a channel that has those insane top fuel tractors in a show called Pro Pulling League, which is fortunately entirely different than the...

If they were crossways, they could only be 8 feet, so they were probably going to a stud mill. Back in the early 70's, Georgia Pacific bought the Moyie River Lumber Co. and put in a stud mill. I got a 1 ton Chevy flatbed and cut stud logs for a few summers. The reason for loading them that...

Someone needs to recreate that for the heavy rescue wrecker shows just to film the crews reactions when they pull up on it.

Here's a pic from the Wix master catalog 1998

You should be able to find a universal frost plug block heater at a parts store, especially where you are. That will ease starting and extend the engine life as well.

I use the air angle grinder with 2" scotchbrite roloc discs.

I lucked out and found some 4x8" I beams about 7 feet long on craigslist a while back. Got two of them and a stick of .250 flatbar that was 9" wide for $40. Made me a set of 8' fork extensions. A little thick for pallet work but for picking up cars or pickup toppers they work great, and were...

I get postcards like that all the time. I save them up and write REFUSED across my address and send them back when I get a stack.

That should be about a quarter to a third of a tank, it shouldn't run out. Hopefully just a plugged filter from junk stirred up. Here's a pic of mine for reference. It's a H50H, 5000 pound cap. Not sure of the year but I was watching old episodes of Honey West a few years back and saw what...

When it acts up, is there a loud buzzing sound coming from inside the machine? I've had three phase contactors act up due to contamination and do the floating buzz that doesn't allow full current, which as you'd expect, makes some pretty bad welds.

Rather than whinge about people inserting politics into everything we care to talk about, it would be better to question why politics has inserted itself into everything we care to talk about. As stated previously, basically nothing can be discussed without a tinge of politics affecting it. "I...

If the jumper cables start it fine, that would indicate that the problem is corrosion within the cable ends that act as resisters between the post and the cable. If the frame connection was bad, it would be hard starting with the jumpers as well. It's still advisable to go ahead and clean them...

What you have is called a Monotrol, it's just a switch that activated the drive to forward or reverse. It's only one speed but variable depending on torque and load, rpm, etc. There should be a section in one of the books about it. Mine is the twin stick manual with a G193 Continental...

Link sent, the nice thing about these old beasts is the wiring is pretty simple.

That looks very similar to my H50H, almost like someone welded fender flares on for duals. Most image searches show dual models with bigger steer tires, don't know what you have there. I've got a folder with all kinds of .pdf manuals; electrics and hydraulics should be similar for everything...

They're in talks to keep it going to series 4 and possibly beyond, it would appear that someone might have introduced a fable book to the boardroom and pointed out golden eggs and the inadvisability of making pate out of the goose that provides them.

I did a 12000 earlier this year and have a spare tore down in the shop, if I recall it is a 5/16 head 10-32 bolt. I didn't have any issue getting mine apart. Worst case, grind the head off so you can get the rod out and deal with the stub in a vise.

I've used an air hammer in similar situations; grind a semi circle in one of the chisels so it fits around the socket, or extension. Put some hand tension on it and give a few short blasts, you should feel it start to move. Doing it that way eliminates pulling the threads out because you're...

I'm all over the place with novels, biographies, reference and manuals. Quite a few years ago a big used bookstore was going out of business and at the end were giving away books to clear the store. Pickup loads came home with me.

The solenoid has a couple of square head copper bolts the the bakelite end cap that the battery terminals connect to; they will get eroded and the whole inside will gum up with carbon from all the arcing. I had one doing that, I carefully tapped out the bolts, cleaned everything up with a wire...