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In addition to dust you could have spider webs in some of the small passages. That's a common issue with propane barbecues.

It could be the spring in your Bendix is too weak to disengage it when the engine starts. A new Bendix could cure your problem.

Many tractors already have a vent, look for one, usually near the seat. How long have you had the tractor? Have you ever changed the transmission fluid? Do you keep it topped up?

If your gauges work intermittently I suspect you have a grounding issue somewhere. A power supply issue is also possible but grounding is probably more likely.

I did an Amazon search for five sided wrench. They do exist. https://www.amazon.com/s?k=five+sided+wrench&crid=3AAW2PGR8CG4P&sprefix=five+sided+wrench%2Caps%2C241&ref=nb_sb_noss_2

I believe the glow plug coil to which your refer may be used as an indicator for heating but it drops the 12 volt tractor supply to about 10.5 for the glow plugs. They frequently glow dimly or not at all. The cheap ignition switches may not have the glow plug position. I replaced my tractor's...

You could go with Alan's suggestion. My pressure tanks are significantly larger than yours. At the top of mine is an air fill like you'd find on your car or tractor tires. The appropriate pressure before you add water is a nominal 30 psi. Actual preferred pressure depends on your system...

I'm not the guy to ask. My sixty foot long building was eighty four feet long before I was done. Be sure your plans are FIRM before starting construction.

Try a search on this site. An individual did install that kit with positive results. I believe his initial hydraulic pressure was slightly below spec.

Have you considered having yours rebuilt?

Contact NGK. They can recommend the correct replacement, probably for less than the dealer wants.

A lot of white smoke is not a good thing. It can indicate moisture in the cylinders. This can be a head gasket or a cracked block but depending on the tractor you could also have moisture entering the exhaust. Some used to exhaust up instead of down. A little white smoke can simply be...

An explanation or description of your specific problem would be more likely to get suggestions.

Start by cleaning your battery terminals and cable ends, replacing them tightly. If you can move them they're not tight. Clean and tighten at the frame ground point as well. That's the starting point, assuming you have a good battery.

Obviously in the main or house panel ground and neutral are the same. In your appliance they are not. Your appliance frame ground is a safety return path while neutral is used to complete the circuit. A wiring fault can carry the current to ground hopefully preventing a shocking experience...

Check your owner's manual - either in print or online. Bleeding different brands and models varies that much.

A new tractor should certainly start reliably and any Tym dealer should be able to repair it on warranty. You may even be able to pitch a fit and have them pick it up and return it at no charge. As far as the paint goes read your warranty carefully to see exactly what's covered. If you...

You could just tape or wire the flipper in the down position so the tractor thinks you're in the seat all the time.

If you have a box blade they generally have some pretty sturdy rippers to dig into the earth.

Great info on a cheap fix, thanks for sharing. I was already a Sea Foam believer for my small gas engines but had not used it on diesel.

If it was the safety eyes the button on the wall wouldn't work either and the light on the opener would flash to indicate you have a problem. It never hurts to clean and align these eyes but they're not likely to be your problem. Check the antenna on your unit. The remotes need to be able to...

Welcome to TBN. You're more likely to get possible fixes with more information about symptoms and any possible troubleshooting you've done thus far. Including the specific tractor and model would be most helpful, too.

This is interesting but seems to have digressed from the original question. I have nothing definitive to add but thought the surface charge was on a fully charged battery actually putting it a bit above the stated battery voltage. That being the case why would one want to charge a fully...

Interesting and informative. One might consider that often these indicators (doubling as voltage dropping resistors) do not fail. The ends become oxidized and will not conduct. They can be disassembled and cleaned then put back into use.

Unless your tractor battery was completely dead or the terminals REALLY corroded you should have had massive fireworks if you connected the jump box backward. Connected properly you should have seen a small spark. Did you connect the jump box directly to the battery? Start with a thorough...

You could try checking into a tractor wrecking yard.

I don't know what you're smelling. I run Rotella T6 exclusively in my L2501 and I don't notice any strange or nasty smells.

The smoke color can give some indication of the problem. Black smoke is generally too much fuel or too little air. White smoke can be water getting into the cylinders. With the information given all you're likely to get are guesses. How was it before your friend started replacing parts?

Check your hydraulic fluid level. If a seal fails in the hydraulic pump some tractors can dump hydraulic fluid into the crankcase.

Do you have one volt at both sides of the resistor or just one? Were the points open or closed when you took your measurement? When the points close they ground one side of the resistor - that's what makes the spark. Your points need to be properly adjusted to work.

The grease type will vary by what it's lubricating. If you are lubrication sleeve bearings for a sliding surface like loader pivots the above suggestions are good and if the grease has molybdenum disulfide in it that's even better - or you can add it. If lubricating a roller or ball bearing...

The dye is a great idea. I was concerned whether it would void my Kubota warranty. I had the local Kubota service guy check with Kubota. According to him per Kubota addition of the John Deere fluid does not void their warranty.

I note there is fork attachment for the bucket. What exactly does that mean? Does this tractor have a complete front end loader or just a place to put one? The tractor is forty five years old. Are parts readily available?

If you can bring the starter motor out of the woods you may be able to take it to a local starter repair shop where they can identify exactly what it is. A local shop successfully identified my Mitsubishi starter and got an after market replacement for far less than I anticipated. The foreign...

If I don't remember to close it my drain valve stays open. When I run the compressor it will remind me to close the valve. If a wasp or something blocks the hole it will leave along with its debris when the compressor starts or certainly when the valve is opened again. Since most condensation...

The tractor takes their DL 95 loader. I don't know what size bucket it will handle. If you decide on something larger take into consideration the load the front of the tractor will handle as repairs can get really expensive. Many tra

Start with the easy stuff. Check the adjustment on the clutch. You may have too much free play.

Many newer diesels call for DEF (diesel exhaust fluid) though not all tractors do. Many tractors over 25 horsepower come with a DPF or diesel particulate filter which does not necessarily require DEF. Your manual should say where to put it if required. Different cars require different...

I've got no Farmall experience. I do know if the three point is in the full up position it can go into bypass mode and really slow all other hydraulic functions. This usually indicates an adjustment on the rock shaft is required.

Learn what you can about your glow plug timer. It is possible one or more glow plugs is shorted causing the timer to short cycle. Some glow plugs burn out open, others short.

Smaller tractors generally use three cylinder engines now. Larger tractors still use four cylinders though the size change varies by brand. Many older tractors used four cylinder engines though some used two or three cylinders, too. That could account for the different sounds made by...

If you pull the wire out you may note the wire itself goes through a metal piece at the end. If there's no metal piece at the end it may still be inside that socket. That is what holds the wire in place. It's also possible you're not inserting the wire fully. It is helpful to slide the...

If your three point lever is in the full up position it can slow all your hydraulics. If moving the loader lever from full up improves your FEL operation you may need to adjust your rock shaft.

Some Kohler engines have an electric solenoid fuel shutoff in the carburetor to prevent run on. It's possible yours is bad. Check the carburetor to see if there's an electric wire running to it. When power is applied the solenoid allows fuel to flow. When the key is turned off the solenoid...

I'll agree there's always something broken or something needing done. I thought when I retired I'd have more time to do stuff. Sadly that's not the case, you just have more time to see stuff needing done. Then old age kicks in, the wife gets cancer, and my time is no longer my own. I just do...

I got my hooks from Home - BoltOnHooks LLC. They were a little more expensive than Amazon or eBay but well thought out and custom for my tractor and loader. Check out the options. Oh yeah, they're real people and will interact with you.

Have you considered having the garage door and opener taken down while the sheetrocking is being done? Of course just taking down the opener would greatly simplify the sheetrock job. Personally I wouldn't consider taking down a door by myself but removal and installation of the opener is a...

That does sound very weak for valve springs. The bubbles in coolant could simply be a bad head gasket. You may wish to investigate further before having any machine work done.

Your battery voltage is a bit low. How much does it drop during cranking? Clean battery contacts and ground - 'tis the season. It's good your glow plug rail gets power. Do the glow plugs themselves? Are they actually heating or possibly defective? If it cranked only to run sluggishly it...

Be sure the vent in your fuel filler cap is clear. If clogged it can create a partial vacuum in the tank preventing fuel flow. This is easy to check by running awhile with the cap off.

You could inquire at a local hydraulic shop. They may require you to take the tractor to them to assure a correct fit. It won't be cheap but probably far less than Deere would have wanted if they had them.

Do a little surfing. There are write ups about similar things out there as well as You Tube videos. This particular company happens to be located in Germany and the purchase price is prohibitive if you're only doing one tractor.

You may find it cheaper to buy tires for your existing rims than to purchase new rims for your tires.

Bleeding methods vary by tractor model. Get the owner's manual for your tractor and follow their suggested bleeding steps.

Generally the FEL will bleed itself in use. Cycle it up and down a couple times curling the bucket as well. It will be bled.

Prices can vary significantly. Contact a few surveyors in your area for estimates.

Instead of depending on somebody else's solution to a problem you'd probably be better served to solve your own problem. His may have been completely different. Your first step should be to determine the actual oil pressure. This will tell whether the oil pressure is really low or you have a...

Replacing the tractor is probably your best bet financially and practically. A specific twenty year old loader will be difficult to find at best though you may get lucky at a tractor wrecking yard. There are after market loaders which can be adapted to a variety of tractors. I'm partial to...

If you've narrowed the issue down to those wires all you have to do is find out where they go. They may go to a shorted component or insulation may have rubbed off at some point allowing a short to ground. It is also possible a rodent has been chewing on them or eaten the insulation in one...

Take it to a local hydraulic shop. They can probably either repair it or order an equivalent for far less than the tractor dealer.

I'd replace all fluids and filters. When you pull the glow plugs to check for water squirt an ounce or so of oil into each hole then turn the engine over a few times to spread the oil on the cylinder walls. If you have a standard transmission your hydraulic oil is also the gear lubricant so...

Activate your glow plugs for ten or fifteen seconds before attempting to start. Make sure you're actually getting power to the glow plugs. Check to make sure the glow plugs are good and heating.

Is it broken? Is it stolen? If it seems a price is too good to be true it usually is.

Check with a local hydraulic shop. They may be able to rebuild your cylinders for only slightly more than you'd pay for a brand name kit.

If you have a local diesel truck repair shop check in there. I found they could rebuild my Mitsubishi injectors - I think they were Nippon Denso or something common.

Clarification is in order. What does "refuse to crank again" mean? Does that mean the engine will not turn over or does it turn over and not start. These are two different things. If it won't turn over at all that is very likely a safety switch that's not being satisfied. If it turns over...

Check the position of your three point lever. If it's in the full up position it can cause the hydraulics to go into bypass mode robbing power from any other hydraulic accessories. If that's your problem the solution is to move the three point lever a bit off of full up. If that does it your...

That's the correct answer for the washer, the other part is the lynch pin sold at most farm supply outlets and by the box from Harbor Freight. The washers are sold by the pair and you will need to know whether your hitch is cat 1 or cat 2 as the sizes differ.

You may come out okay if you can locate a used loader for your model tractor. If the loader is for a different model tractor you can find yourself needing extensive modifications to make it work. A new after market loader for your tractor could easily run $6000. Selling or trading your...

Try pulling the relay and see if the fuse still blows. If the coil in a relay is shorted it can blow a fuse but it would be very rare for a coil to short. If the circuit controlled by the relay has a short that could cause a problem as well when the relay is energized.

I'm not sure what non - oxy gas is but I'll assume it's a gasoline tractor. Make sure you've got spark. There are several places where you could lose it and you've not mentioned what troubleshooting you've done.

If the carport has a metal roof insulation is a concern. If you do not insulate the inside of the metal from contact with air water condensing on the metal will precipitate and drip inside the carport. A carport being open birds will want to destroy the insulation.

Fiskars works well and has a no hassle guarantee. I broke mine due to too tough roots or too hard soil. I gave the replacement to my daughter who has sandy soil.

If the lights come on but starter won't engage I suspect a safety switch is not satisfied. It could be a bad switch or the wiring to it.

You replaced the key switch. Are you sure it's wired correctly?

Normally there's no need to bleed the hydraulic system. Run the loader or three point up and down a couple times. That should do it.

It sounds like your hydraulic pump is leaking into the crankcase. It is powered directly from the engine and sometimes they leak.

Check into a local hydraulic shop and explore options with them. You could even take in an old cylinder so they can get sizes for pricing.

Sometimes the pressure sensor will fail - I've had it happen. Temporarily install an oil pressure gauge to see what's really happening. In addition to oil pump and bearings there is a pressure relief valve spring which can get weak or fail. Troubleshoot before throwing money at your problem.

Do a web search for fifth wheel truck rentals. I scored several both 3/4 and one ton.

Measure the battery voltage when the tractor is not running - it should be about 12.6. Measure again with the tractor running. It should go up to about 14 if the alternator is working. That's the easiest test I can think of.

If the transaxle is low on lubricant things may not slide freely. A leaking wheel seal can cause this. I hope it's just a belt as the seal is not available though there are workarounds.

The wires may be a bit oxidized. Taking the wire nut off and replacing it may be contacting a new area on the wires permitting better conductivity. You could try replacing the wire nut with one of the grease filled underground variety.

It is possible your new seat switch is defective, you could have a bad connector, its wiring may have been rubbed bare at some point and shorting, or mice have been chewing the wiring - just a guess.

I have a Kubota HST with a three speed transmission. If one of the gears is not engaged it will not move. There is a dead or neutral area between each gear, very easy to think you're in gear when you're not. You may wish to investigate that possibility on your tractor.

If as the dealer says they're all like that you should be able to go to any unit on the lot and have it react in the same way. If others are all smooth performing the same operation and yours isn't the dealer has a problem to fix.

What transmission do you have? How old is the tractor? How well maintained? If it has an HST transmission your fluid could be low, you could have an incorrect fluid in it, the transmission filter could be dirty or clogged as could the HST filter. I little more info could be really helpful.

Your fuse should not get hot. Based on your resistance reading the PTO clutch should draw just over five amps - well within your thirty. However when you engage the PTO it will initially draw far more, hence the thirty amp fuse. Your coil may have some shorted turns or some internal leakage...

Try going through another thread. There are several after market loaders suggested - none of which will be inexpensive and all will require some fitting. Frontend Loader for YM220D

Go with the original ad. Contact the seller. I've dealt with him and he's real easy on the returns if the part is incorrect. The picture shown may not be correct for your tractor but he may have the correct water pump. FITS MITSUBISHI Satoh MT250 MT280 MT300 D2600 D2650 D3250 TRACTOR...

Using the PTO will work the engine harder than just moving stuff around. That and the higher RPM will increase the temperature at which the engine runs. That said there is no indication (in degrees) of the actual temperature at which the engine is running. Since it's not off the end of the...

Consider also it may be the push button itself. That would certainly be cheaper than a control board or module.

When my Mitsubishi starter failed I removed it and took it to a local starter repair shop. They identified it and ordered a new one. After a two week wait they had received the new one. I installed it. End of story.

The Bendix may be shot. It sounds like it's engaging the flywheel but incapable of turning it. Normally the Bendix will spin freely one way so it can disengage but lock the other way to turn the engine over. This one sounds like it's not locking.

Very clever. Thanks for sharing. I'd a never thought of that!!

It sounds like one of the safety switches isn't happy. Be sure PTO is disengaged, sit in the seat, and depress the clutch. It may want the transmission in neutral as well. Check the manual.

As a quick fix you could try some automotive belt dressing on your drive belt. It may be slipping under load.

What type transmission does it have? If it's an HST it won't roll freely.

Are you sure the new blades are the same length as the old ones?

Be sure you know the correct name for your router / network. You may be seeing it and it's not named what you think it is. Of course when you're able to see it you'll need the correct password to access it.

White smoke usually indicates water getting into the cylinders. The smell is probably from antifreeze in the water. You may have lost a head gasket which would be far preferable to a cracked head. In either case it demands further investigation.

Charge the battery then have it load tested. Or charge the battery then remove cables. Clean terminals and cable ends. Reconnect and tighten. If you can move the ends they're not tight. Follow ground wire to frame - clean and tighten. Check battery voltage - it should be about 12.6...

It does indeed sound like a safety switch - or possibly the start switch located in the ignition switch.

The nut where the lever pivots may be a little loose. Try tightening there.

If you replace the test lamp with an ammeter you can determine the amount of draw. That may give you some idea of where the current could be leaking.

With the radiator cap off and the engine running you should be able to view turbulence in the radiator as the water pump moves water. That may help you decide whether to replace the water pump. The water pump may have internal problems preventing it from circulating the water.

While considering a quick hitch note that all implements you plan to use must have approximately the same attachment width. Mine are not so I went with Pat's Quick Hitch instead.

Try checking to see how much voltage the starter is actually getting when you try to start. If it's not getting ten or eleven volts it may not go. If it's not getting the volts you need to backtrack to see why not.

Check your battery cables to see if the ends are corroded. They may only LOOK good. Be sure battery cables are tight. If loose they will be resistive to current flowing. Check solenoid connections as well. When solenoid clicks see how much voltage is actually at the starter terminal. It...

If it's a gasoline engine with no fuel in the carburetor I'd check to see if the float valve is working properly. That can prevent fuel from entering if it sticks closed. Disconnect fuel pump from carb and check to see that it's putting out fuel.

You may be able to turn it on with the key then jump it at the starter bypassing all safety switches to get it running. The concern there is having it jump when it starts. It may be best to have someone depressing the clutch if you attempt this method.

I'd start by cleaning and tightening all battery connections - clamps as well as battery terminals. After installing clamps try to move them. If you can move them they're not tight. Follow the ground lead to the frame. Clean and tighten there as well. From here you can begin to troubleshoot.

If you weld the landing gear to the trailer would you have a way to detach it when you want to use the trailer for hauling? Perhaps you have room to extend or widen your lean to?

There is probably only one terminal and the frame of the switch is the other. Connect an ohmmeter between the connection points and see what you read. It should be open or infinite resistance. Leave your meter connected and put it into a container of water. Heat the water and see what it...

Yes, a special tool will be required. I'd start by spraying some contact cleaner into the female pins and working the connector a few times. That may do it for you. I can't help with the special tool, there are too many kinds and sizes though they are generally not very expensive.

Your clutch issue could be as simple as a piece of linkage popped off. Carefully examine all parts of the linkage from the pedal to the bell housing. It's also possible with that vintage tractor the break or disconnect could be inside the bell housing.

By all means clean and check all connections as suggested above. You may be having issues with your fuel shutoff solenoid. It could open or close an internal (or external) connection when it gets hot.

Check the output of your fuel pump. Don't assume just because you replaced it any fuel is being pumped. Disconnect it from the carburetor and crank while the line is going into a can while watching the flow.

I guess that depends on your particular tractor. The PTO drive is generally gear driven even if you have a hydrostatic transmission. It may engage directly or via a solenoid or cable.

Check the float level in your carburetor and be sure the needle valve is capable of stopping fuel flow when float is up. If needle can't turn fuel flow off and on you may have found your problem.

Since your tractor is under 25 horsepower it probably does not have a computer. A wiring diagram would be good to have for this project. I used an automobile ignition switch from NAPA to replace the factory switch on my Mitsubishi D2350. That allowed me to turn on all the electrical power. I...

Check the oil level in your engine's crankcase. You may find your missing hydraulic fluid. Sometimes a seal in the engine driven hydraulic pump fails dumping hydraulic fluid into the crankcase.

Those do appear to be half inch hooks. You could use half inch chain but if you go down one size they'd probably be easier to work with.

The first thing that jumps out at me is the warranty should cover it. You may have a weak solenoid or a poor connection if the PTO is energized by a solenoid rather than a mechanical engagement.

Turn the key to the run position. Ground one voltmeter lead. Put the other lead into the various points on the connector one at a time. That will tell whether any have power when the key is on. They are probably fused. Track down what's what.

It is likely a ground problem and you may not find a ground wire as such. The plug providing power and signal to the gauges could also carry the ground. The instruments may be grounded by the screws holding them to the dash. Your solution is likely step by step troubleshooting with some...

It may or may not be a concern. Start by adjusting your valves. There could be excessive play in one or more.

Generally figure 5 PTO horsepower for each foot of brush hog. If you have a bit less it will still work but you may have to reduce your forward speed to keep up with the cutting. If you have trouble swapping implements different types of quick hitches are available. There are even quick...

It is not clear to me where the sparks are happening. Scotty seems to be referring to sparking inside the alternator. Your description sounds more like sparks outside the alternator. You could possibly have a bad ground. Look for something loose or a missing screw.

The speaker diameter is not important - whatever fits will work. The speaker impedance is far more important. Most speakers are either four or eight ohm. Go with what the stereo manufacturer recommends.

If you can get to the switch try spraying some contact cleaner into it - like along the little moving shaft. Work it a few times. This may or may not solve your problem.

At 2783 rpm the engine probably does sound like it's racing. The proper rpm does vary by tractor but since the proper rpm for my Kubota is about 2000. 2783 sounds high to me as my engine won't even go that high. I have no specific tach to tell me my PTO speed, I just depend on the engine tach...

You could try replacing the flasher. I prefer the newer solid state ones to the old mechanical switch type.

Did you bleed the lines this time?

My Kubota has one continuously live wire to the back. It turns off with the ignition switch. It's for the work light.

Those are all good answers but to help prevent over filling in the future try adding John Deere transmission fluid dye to the oil. It makes it a snap to see it in your sight window.

As long as you're looking for opinions, I don't use valley flashing at all. I'm a homeowner not a roofer so I can take the time to weave the shingles across the valley. If not properly installed with enough flashing on each side of the valley the roof may leak in a good rain. I put on a new...

As long as we're guessing, they may be removed to verify grease is getting into the link. You could remove them and see if they're long enough to even contact the threads or if they just plug the holes.

A weak battery or poor connections can result in hard starting. If you've not done so check the air filter and passage into the intake manifold. You could clean or replace the fuel filter then bleed the system.

If you can tap on it and things return to normal that indicates a loose or corroded fitting. One likely culprit is the way the module is grounded. Try finding the ground point, clean and tighten.

It does appear to be the return line. This is a very low pressure hose which may just rely on the friction of the fitting to hold it in place. As suggested look carefully for the little fitting where it should go.

The tractor is old enough you could probably have the radiator professionally cleaned. I think they take it apart and clean the core with rods or something like that. You could even have the core replaced at a radiator shop, we have one locally that does all of that.

I don't know Tym tractors. I do know many (most?) tractors have a screen in front of the radiator. Remove it and clean it, then use a hose or air to blow debris from the radiator from back to front. Replace the screen. Now check for a sticking thermostat. If it sticks shut the tractor will...

If you have a filter screen it could be partially blocked. You could also have too much crud in your hydraulic filter. Was there possibly any water in the system of the attachment you used? Water could vaporize in the hot hydraulic fluid.

You may consider fashioning a blocking plate to cover the rear opening where the PTO was removed. Using gasket sealer it should prevent leaks from the hydraulic reservoir. If your hydraulics are otherwise intact you may be able to use the tractor for pulling and use the loader.

Did the transaxle actually fail or is it simply out of fluid? I have a Craftsman that lost its fluid. I can't get seals for it but it does have a fill port on the top. I drilled lower down for a hydraulic jack plug to check fluid level. I'll get a bit more life out of it - perhaps enough to...

I got a Noco ten amp charger but your chargers are old enough they can probably be repaired. The most common problem is probably the rectifier but you could have a poor connection internally. If the transformer still works they're not dead.

Your chosen picture may be too high a resolution and have too many pixels for the given site or your email program. You can change the resolution with a free program such as Irfanview. Go surfing on the web.

Please elaborate pulling the 40 amp fuse to reset. Are you replacing it because it blew or just removing and replacing the same fuse to interrupt power? A schematic diagram of your wiring would probably help sort out what's happening. Lacking that you could try pulling individual fuses in...

You listed a symptom of the starter solenoid clicking. Thomas gave you the first step in troubleshooting. To that I would add have the battery load tested. It is usually less expensive to begin with a systematic approach to troubleshooting than to start by disassembling things.

If you can access the front of your engine you may be able to get a socket and ratchet or breaker bar onto the bolt at the front of the crankshaft. If you can access the ring gear on the flywheel you may be able to grab a tooth with a screwdriver and turn it that way.

As suggested it may be the switch but you may also want to investigate the solenoid which it probably activates. The worst possible case could be the clutch but if the tractor keeps moving normally it's probably not that.

Some tractors have a screen in the hydraulic system which can restrict flow as they catch crud. Some have a hydraulic filter which serves the same purpose. Some have both. A diagram of the hydraulic system would be in order as well as a pressure check. Perhaps when he redid the transmission...

Hi, and welcome to TBN. Black smoke frequently indicates too much fuel for too little air. Check your air cleaner then the air path through the intake. Sometimes it really is that simple.

Installing a loader can be complicated - if you can find an affordable used one. After market loaders like Koyker can be purchased to the tune of $5000 or so. How badly do you really want a loader? Selling the tractor and buying one with a loader already mounted may be a better and less...

Check your engine oil level. Many hydraulic pumps are driven off the engine. If they leak the oil can go into your crankcase overfilling it. The cure is to either reseal or replace the pump.

Shaking the tank with nuts and bolts (or even gravel) inside will indeed loosen the rust and break it loose. You can then even put in muriatic acid for fifteen minutes or so to clean it, just flush thoroughly with water to dilute it well so it doesn't keep acting. Let the tank dry thoroughly...

You probably don't need the inner filter. I got one as added insurance in case the outer fails for any reason. I should never need to change the inner filter. I change engine oil every fifty hours just because.

If simply wiggling the key gets it to start the problem probably resides in the key switch. It's probably time to replace it.

There is no reason not to go six foot. The rule of thumb is five horsepower per foot of cut. That would put you needing thirty horsepower for that cutter. You have power to spare.

Welcome to TBN. If you can't find your information on this website you might pose it on a Kubota specific site such as Orange Tractor Talks. There's a guy in there from Northern Idaho who REALLY knows his Kubotas. He's Wolfman or something like that.

Decide what your desired end result will be. Get estimates from two or three guys who do this kind of work. I do not believe your equipment is up to the job. You could probably do it given enough time. You may be pleasantly surprised how cheap it is to have someone with bigger equipment come...

If you don't have a specific job in mind save your money.

Almost any album by Simon and Garfunkel would fill the bill for me.

I agree with Beenthere but will add to be sure cables are tight after cleaning. If you can move the connector it's not tight. Follow the ground lead to the frame. Clean and tighten there, too.

Clean the air filter and ensure the air path from there to the intake manifold is clear. Does it have glow plugs? Are they getting voltage? Determine this with a voltmeter not a dash light. Are the glow plugs good?

The process of charging generates hydrogen gas which is highly explosive. I suspect you had a build up in the cell which was low on fluid. It then ignited when you attempted to start the truck. Check your fluid levels periodically and refill as needed.

The rule of thumb seems to be one foot of cutter per five PTO horsepower. Actually that's on the conservative side and you'd probably be okay with a four foot cutter. If it starts to bog just slow your forward speed.

Shop the internet for OTC (over the counter) hearing aids. There are various outfits rating their choice of best. You may get by for $300 or less.

Check for dirt in the air filter and ensure you have a clear air path into the intake manifold. It's possible your starter is tired and no longer spinning the engine as fast as it should.

I usually start with tractordata.com. There's not much on the Ford 535 other than it's an industrial tractor: Ford 535 Industrial Tractor Tractor Specifications The 4110 appears to be more of a farm type tractor TractorData.com Ford 4110 tractor information Note the 4110 is diesel and the...

I've no idea how you know it's not the coil but yes, it could be the condenser. If you have one it could also be the ballast resistor and you are correct, it could be the distributor cap. It could also be the rotor failing to make contact with the center of the distributor cap. Of course it...

You may have already tried this but if not disconnect power from the unit - flip the circuit breaker. Leave it without power for perhaps fifteen minutes to be sure capacitors bleed down. Reapply power and see if there's a change. That fixed my convection microwave.

Remove organic stuff down to native dirt. Water well to be sure it's settled. Use 5/8" minus as a fill then water and compact that.

There are manufacturers who produce generic loaders which will fit a wide variety of tractors, just pick your size. I've only had experience with a Koyker loader but was very pleased with it. I believe they're made in South Dakota.

If moisture got in lube isn't the cure. You could try contact cleaner but cleaning battery terminals and connectors is the proper starting point. After cleaning tighten securely. If you can move the connector it's not tight. Follow the ground leas to the frame. Clean and tighten there, too.

You might consider a shallower groove along the length of the pin to allow the grease to go more than just in that circle.

There are two types of 120 volt outlets. Most are fifteen amp outlets. A few are twenty amp which require heavier wire. Check your breaker panel to see which you have. That will limit your choice of welders. Although you want a stick welder you may be limited to a wire feed if you're...

Did the old one have the plate and gaskets? Is the new water pump thicker in some way than the old one?

It sounds like it's still on warranty. If you don't wish to take it in take a fuel line apart near the tank output and see if fuel flows freely. If that's good check your fuel filter - sometimes they collapse "just because". Bleed the air out of your fuel lines per the manual and try it...

You should be aware that when you reach a certain age (72 or 73) you must take money from the IRA each year so the government can tax it. There are calculations for this minimum required distribution. When the IRA becomes your daughter's the distributions must continue based upon what your age...

I run a five foot cutter behind my L2501 with zero issues and had none with the Mitsubishi D2350 before it. I avoided tractors above 25 hp due to concerns of issues with computers and particulate filters and such. Simple works best for me. I opted to pay more for the Kubota because I've had...

When flushing the system use only distilled water. Tap water has impurities which will build up in the cooling system. You'll probably have to drain into a large pan if you pull the lower radiator hose as fluid will come gushing out. Parts stores may not carry ethylene glycol antifreeze any...

There is a conversion factor to get from one to the other so one may be larger or smaller than the other. SCFM Vs CFM Explained: SCFM To CFM Calculator + Chart

Your water pump looks similar to the one on my Mitsubishi D2350. That tractor did have a small coolant line going "somewhere" back the right side of the engine. If your tractor doesn't have the line you can probably just plug that hole on the water pump. The older Japanese tractors had many...

I engage at idle then throttle up to PTO speed.

You may have a bad Bendix but it's also possible your starter doesn't spin initially with enough speed to throw the Bendix into the ring gear in the engine. A complete starter may be a better way to go. Of course it's also possible your starter isn't getting full voltage when activated. You...

Try a local hydraulic shop. They can probably provide a matching actuator. If it's very different from the original you may need to buy two. Who knows? They may even be able to repair your old one.

It does appear Carter and Sons are still on the web. Had I known about them before buying Pat's I would have had theirs. As it was I did have to get a longer top link and extend my PTO shaft. After the added purchases and adjustments the Pat's hitch works great but Carter would probably be a...

That's all good information and would probably solve your problem but you may want to try cleaning and tightening the battery connectors first. Don't neglect the ground cable where it goes to the chassis..

To facilitate rigging the shop vac check the size and thread of the fill port cap. Mine was exactly right for a one inch threaded PVC adapter.

I believe white smoke usually indicates moisture. A little would probably indicate condensation from the air. A lot can be a leaky head gasket or even a cracked head. See if your coolant level is going down.

I lower the bucket, set the brake, and use a chain around each axle.

Try pulling the fuel line before the fuel filter to check flow directly from the tank. If you get some flow which then stops or slows way down you may have crud in your fuel tank. Don't forget to bleed the air out of your lines when done checking.

The blue smoke indicates oil may be bypassing somewhere. If it is closer to black try checking your air path, especially the amount of dirt in the air cleaner. You should probably do a compression check. How much voltage are the glow plugs getting? They should get a little over ten volts...

If yours is like my GT5000 it has a disc brake kind of. The metal piece the brake rod pulls rotates when pulled. It has a bit of an angle to it as I recall. As it moves it depresses the pad against the disc. There is an adjustment to move the pad closer to the disc because as the pad wears...

if it's your land they just have an easement. As far as I know you can still use the land - that would mean planting if you wish, use it for pasture, or whatever. You probably have the right to mow your own land, too. I'm not so sure they have the right to apply poison to kill plants on your...

Instead of troubleshooting by blowing fuses you can replace the fuse with a twelve volt bulb on jumper wires. The bulb will limit current and serve as a tattle tale to when current is flowing. The current flowing will not be ten amps so your devices may not work but this trick may help track...

You can check out the selection at Tractor Supply and see if anything strikes your fancy. Don't forget to read the reviews on any model you may select. https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/search/side%20by%20side%20utv?