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Nice.!! I love fishing with the Mrs.. When we met she didn’t know what end of the rod to hold.. lol Now she’s the 1st one to bring up, “ What’s the bet?”.. She’s gotten so good “at catching”.. we now bet on, smallest fish cleans the catch.!!

The system will NOT work without bleeding the air out first.

10-4. Good luck

You’re very welcome.. Keep us updated..

I forgot about this thread.. otherwise I would have written a book.!! As I type this, I have 4 incoming pumps that are LOST.!!! The customers ALL used USPS PRIORITY MAIL.!! Last month, I had a pump that was “in transit” for 55 days.!! The customer insured his pkg for $2500.00.!! That was...

Yes, it could be from there but it’s highly unlikely.. My money is on the tamper screw.. some are 5 sided TORX tamper screws, some are 6 sided TORX.. You’ll have to get a mirror to see whatcha got.. I have used the correct bit and held it with 1 hand(finger) & tightened it with a wrench using...

Check this.. dry your hands and reach around the pump (from the top) to the other side of the pump, just about the area of where the side window would be.. now check your hand/fingers, are they wet.?? There’s a plug on that side of the pump that is loose from the factory.. it’s a tamper proof...

That’s the advance plug.. it has an adjustment screw and lock nut, sealed with an oring.. Depending on WHERE it’s leaking, the big plug is sealed with 2 orings of different sizes.. and the adjuster screw has an oring behind the nut and seals on the face of the big plug. If it’s leaking behind...

What’s the name plate on the pump read.??

Contact me directly and I’ll walk you thru some checks. thepumpguysc at aol dot com In your home mail service..

When I put up my plywood walls, I ordered BC plywood..?? The type that’s sanded on 1 side.. It makes for a nice finish and it’s “blonde” so it’s pretty light in there..

Well of course their being tracked.!! THATS the purpose of the tag.!!

I think it’s metric.. 6mm.??

Yes, it’s possible that a stuck injector (open or closed) does fix itself..

Put the old injectors back in and see if the problem gets better.. u have nothing to lose. I tell people all the time not to buy that type of injectors online.. I’ve tested TO MANY of them to endorse them.. WHAT IVE FOUND IS, they’ll either have the wrong nozzle in them, be set at the wrong...

Pinch it off with some vise grips and see what happens.. Where does the line go or start from.?

The hst bhas a “cold start solenoid”.. towards the bottom of the pump..it’s not a shut off solenoid.. Make sure you have fuel at the inlet of the inj pump.. Then Loosen the lines AT THE INJECTORS and crank the engine until it starts to squirt fuel at the loosened lines and tighten..

I had one that I did the pump with new pumping plungers.. I rebuilt the injectors with new nozzles, did a compression test, they were all at 290psi… and checked the glow plugs..& it wouldn’t start.!!! The compression was low but not VERY LOW..& they were all even.. I had plenty of fuel to the...

Start eliminating things.. I would start w the filter.. Get yourself a couple of barb fittings to bypass the filter and hook the lines together.. If that doesn’t do it, my next move would be the fuel tank.. Get a clean 1 gallon container w a screw on cap.. Drill a hole in the cap to accept a...

Lol.!!! Good one Tinhack..

If it overheated that bad.. are u planning on sending the head out and get it pressure tested and magnafluxed.?? Decked.?? Personally I think it would be worth while seeing your going down that road.. Good luck

Don’t wait for the sludge to run thru.!! Your just waiting for a problem.. Drain the tank and flush it out..

I can do it.. what’s the problem.?

5393-252u.. front seal

Start by measuring the old ones and putting the same amount back in.. Most inj pumps don’t come w shims and the old ones are reused.. Good luck

Does your unit have glow plugs.?? Incase u don’t know, they’ll be real close to the injectors, screwed into the head and have an electrical connection going to each one.. U have to MAKE SURE THEY WORK.. The next thing to check, in my book, would be the fuel supply TO the main injection pump...

how did u get to the plungers.?? The most common mistake is, people don’t know that there’s a piston in the sleeve in the end plate..because it’s frozen in the sleeve.. Another common mistake is they put the pressure adjuster in up side down.. Good luck

So sorry, YES, MAPP gas

If u don’t have a BIG oxy torch.. they have them in a hand held YELLOW BOTTLE.. NOT THE BLUE BOTTLE..

I was limbing branch’s and cutting trees from the hurricane that came thru.. Separated them in sizes.. Took me 2 days to get over that.. Day 3 I decided to bundle the smaller branches with twine to take to the landfill.. had about 12 bundles.. Waited about an hour before I cooled down enough to...

Doesn’t that engine have a removable plate on the side of the engine, directly on the side where the inj pump lives.? U could take the plate off and feel if the rack is sticking or if your engine rack is bent causing the problem. Btw.. thank u for installing the supply pump and trying to...

I’m just thinking out loud here: If the fuel tank is lower than the inj pump, I think u would need a supply pump/lift pump to feed the inj pump.?? U said u had the “fuel pump” reconditioned.. do u mean the injection pump.??

THAT wouldn’t be to bad, IF it worked like THAT.. (the spigot worked filling the tub while u took a shower.) but like your regular home shower, it’s one or the other..

Thank u for answering Sig.. I still think 8 or so minutes is a long time to be sitting there naked, freezing “the boys” off.. I appreciate the first hand experience..

As long as we’re on the subject of bath tubs.. U know the ones they advertise on tv.. the zero lip ones that u sit in and close the door.?? And if u act now, we’ll throw in a shower head absolutely free.!! Who in their right mind will sit in an empty tub, naked, while it fills.!!?? U can’t fill...

If u have the push on filter, the one that fits between the lines..?? Take it off and blow thru it.. I had the same problem.. I put the new one on, the same way as the old one.. It was made “backwards”..!!

With smoke like that, I’d say injector.. Just loosen each line and retighten until u get to the one that makes no difference.. It could be a stuck plunger in the pump also.. To check that, remove all the lines AT THE INJECTORS and spin the engine over while watching the squirt.. a stuck plunger...

Ur SUPPOSED TO USE THE GLOW PLUGS.. that’s why they’re there.. The term “cold start” is NOT for the outside temperature.. It’s for the temp of the engine.. When starting for the 1st time, it’s a COLD START..

U should get wet with a loosened banjo bolt.. I’d start there..

Eddie, is that some of your work.?? Very nice upgrades.!!

And the bolts are METRIC.. It’s probably a 10mm.. To check it, disconnect or loosen the line from the injection pump and crank the engine.. U should get a good pulse of fuel at the injection pump inlet..if the supply pump is working.. Good luck.

I take it it’s a 3 wire solenoid.?? This has been covered .. a lot. Do a search for Kioti shut off solenoid. U can test your old one.. Black is ground (-) Red is hold (+) White is pull in (+) It takes a lot of amps to pull in, so if you’re going to test it with a battery charger, you’ll have to...

looks like the Angel Oak tree.??

The shim are for timing of the fuel being injected into the engine.. The shims lift or lower the pump off the cam lobes.. Did u measure the old ones.? Did u get the one off the old pump.?? You usually just use or put back the same shims.. If u just have to use sealant on them, use it very...

Degrease the screws and the holes they go into with brake cleaner.. blow dry. Use BLUE LOCTITE Zon the screw threads and tighten. I use a hand impact tool and hammer to tighten them up. BE CAREFUL.. the screws are soft and the heads will strip out when going back together.. If I remember...

It all “looks easy”.. all u can do is try.. sometimes the inj body gets rusted in the bore and it takes days of spraying them down with penetrating oil.. so all u can do is TRY.. Have a look at the mounting ear on the inj PUMP.. There’s a timing line on it.. That line corespondents with degree...

The fuel system is a closed system.. once u break the seal (inlet line) u have to bleed the system.. The easiest is loosening the lines AT THE INJECTORS and spinning the engine until fuel squirts out and tighten.

A Diesel engine needs 300 psi to ignite the fuel. What r u using for a compression tester adapter.? U cannot use a gasoline compression tester in a Diesel engine.. That’s a good compression reading if it’s a gas motor.

It’s possible that an injector is stuck open.. But seeing u don’t have a pop tester, it could be anything.. pump, injectors, bad rings sucking oil.. U just gotta grab your wrenchs and get to work.

If u think 500.00 for an injection pump is expensive, u bought the wrong toy.. Good find Mike.. It’s the same procedure. FYI: they can be rebuilt.. But for not much less than buying one off Fleabay..

U have it correct, it’s the same as your previous job. Bolts on the 4 corners.. U might have a slight problem if the rack is stuck, only because the rack has to be in a certain position to allow the rack pin to pass.. There’s actually a CUT OUT in the block to allow it to pass.. Do yourself a...

A picture would be GREAT.. I wonder how many times they used THAT line.!!??

Have u checked the bottom of the fuel tank.? Have u cut open the fuel filter.?? Basically there are 2-3 things that will directly effect the injectors.. 1) dirty fuel 2) bad fuel filters allowing dirt/debris thru. 3) injection pump timing. Idk what the warranty is on that engine, but it seems...

How about a “shop vac”.??

I had the misfortune to talk to a call center a couple of days ago.. They’re giving these women “American” sounding names so u feel at ease trying to talk to them.. The poor girl I “talked to” the other day was named ROOT..?? I’m SURE it was supposed to be RUTH, but I guess her tongue didn’t...

The inj pump controls the amount of fuel sent to the injectors, the injectors atomize the fuel into a mist where the mist is “exploded” in the cylinder caused by the heat generated from the glow plugs and pistons going up and down.. That said, I would suspect the control rack on the inj pump is...

If u loosen the inj lines 1 at a time and listen for the miss.. U can narrow it down to A cyl.. THEN swap that injector to one furthest away from the suspect hole. Hope this helps.

Yes, I think you’re on the right track.. leaking injectors will create those symptoms. If using anything in the tank, FOLLOW THE INSTRUCTIONS.!! To much is not a good thing.. I’ve personally seen an inj pump eaten from the inside out.!!

After getting the 10pk of vents from eBay which works great btw.. I bought a battery operated siphon.. that thing works great.. pop in 2D batteries, put the siphon end into the can & put the hose end into the mower and push the button.. it puts 2-2.5 gallons in QUICK.. I took all those “safety”...

It’s not as simple as it looks. U see that return line joining each injector.? When u go to loosen that nut that’s holding it on, the line will spin on u and break.. I always use a HAND IMPACT TOOL & hammer to jar the nut loose.. that’s if I have room. If not, I’ll put a wrench on the injector...

Never mind, I found them. My 1st hand experiences have not been good.. I tell my customers not to get them, they’re junk. I still have customers that get them and then send them to me to check them.. So far I’ve found metal in one and the opening pressures are ALL OVER THE PLACE.. I actually...

Post a picture of them or send it to my email.. I might be able to rebuild them cheaper.. My email is my screen name at aoldotcom in your mail server..

Now there’s a man who enjoys his work!!!!!! Can I ask u, how does that ceiling heater work.?? Do u wish u went bigger.?? Do u have to turn it on and come back in an hour before you start.?? I’ve seen them advertised in the Northern Tool catalog.. By chance do you know the specs or the mdl...

It’ll only move about an inch.. Get someone to crank the engine while u push/pull on the lever.. If u can’t get it to move, the control rack is stuck and u should STOP.. U don’t want to bend/break anything..

A SLIDE HAMMER.??!! Yes it’ll hurt it.. probably snap it in half..

Yes, get a pick with a hook or a 90* on 1 end.. If it’s really stuck u might wanna consider taking it off the engine.

They’re GOOD PEOPLE.!!!

Get a hold of Jeff at BROWNIES Tractor.. He just called me last week about the same thing.. I gave him the name of a Co. that rebuilds electronic injectors.. He called me back and said they can’t do the Kioti’s.. So I don’t know what he ended up doing.. He or Laura are very welcoming so don’t...

If I remember correctly, that glow plug indicator is part of the circuit.. if the bulb is burned out, it opens the circuit.. so, check the bulb. Have u put a test lite on the bus bar to check to see if voltage is making it that far.? Make a hot wire with 2 alligator clips.. clip one end to the...

Remember when the hi beams were on the floor board and activated with your left foot.??

Use them, so you don’t need anything else..

Yes.. Did u have a hand in it getting out of adjustment?? U can contact me directly at: My screen name at aoldotcom in your mail service..

I’ve got some.. contact me thru here or my screen name at aoldotcom in your mail service..

I was just getting ready to leave those instructions.. The solenoid HAS TO BOTTOM OUT INSIDE THE CASE.. and is adjustable with the nut.. If u need further instructions..on how to.. just ask. Good luck

if that solenoid has 3 wires: Black is ground- Red is hold, low amps. White is pull in, hi amps. Do not make the mistake of running the solenoid w a “hot wire” to the WHITE wire. It’ll burn up the solenoid in short order.!! Good luck

Do the model #’s on the new pump match the model number on the old pump.??

Deterring tailgaters..??

First u have to figure out what size ends u need.. both inj pump AND injector.. Hint: take a METRIC wrench, use the box end and fit it over the connector.. it’s either gonna be a 12mm or 14mm.. Now plug that # in Google as written & look for the correct ends..(12-14mm) Ex: 6x2x600 injection pump...

Space them so you can back your boat thru the uprights safely.. And the size of the roof, to cover the motor and bow.. SERIOUSLY..

That’s some funny **** right there.!!

I was looking at that too ArlyA.!! No hangers.. & the stringer sitting in the dirt is a no-no.. a couple of paver stones would take care of that..

Momma said there’s be days like this.. That’s why I LOVE doing what I do.. I take a non-running piece of machinery, go thru the fuel system.. turn the key and it roars to life.. I smile EVERY TIME..

Sounds like the control rack in the injection pump is locked up.?? I’m not familiar with that mdl. but if there’s a removable plate on the side of the engine, directly in front of the inj pump.. u might get lucky and get access to the control rack. Good luck

Your explanation is hard to follow.. The INJECTORS are screwed in the head.. If u torque the DELIVERY VALVE HOLDER (#4) to 35 ftlbs, u should be ok.. If u took the pump apart chances are hi you didn’t get it back together properly.. and sheared the locating pin..

U said u ran new wire.. Just swap the wires.. You’ve got 12v battery voltage plus, going to the pull in coil. I’ve never done it before.. but u could run a wire from the pull in coil to the starter exciter wire.. you’ll get the full amps to pull it in..& it’ll quit when u release the key.. Not...

I’ll look it up tomorrow.

So ur saying the head and rotor is seized/snapped.?? And u need a head and rotor.? Do u know the cause.?? U HAVE TO get the injectors pop tested.. I’ll see if I can find u a H&R..

Black is ground. Red is (run) hold.. low amps White is pull in.. hi amps

What is your pump number.?

Or injectors for spray pattern.??

Toooo funny.!!!

U know ur old when you say, “HOOEY”.!!! 😂

That test will tell u if the bubbles are coming from the return fuel or a hairline crack like bmav. suggested..

Good video of the “problem”.. That is indeed odd.. Is there any way to reroute the return.?? Is that the fuel outlet, to the filter, directly under the return bubbles.?? Just as a test, grab a spatula, preferably off the grill, and see if u can block off the bubbles from the outlet..

Loosen the fuel inlet banjo bolt that go into the inj pump and crank the engine while watching the loosened line.. wait for the bubbles to stop and tighten it back up.. Loosen the lines AT THE INJECTORS and crank the engine and watch for fuel to squirt out and tighten.. It should be bled now...

There r no parts required “on the other end”.. It’s a metal to metal seal..

You use the “double wrench” method.. Hold the delivery valve holder with one wrench and use another to loosen the line.. once u break the seal on the line nut, go to the other end and loosen the line at the injector..& remove the lines as u go.. keep them in order.. There IS an oring and a...

I use to have signs made up that read, “If you had room to bring it, you have room to take it out.” I hate seeing the empty blue worn tubs littering the area.!!

& hold the throttle to wide open while cranking the engine with the lines loose at the injectors.. Once the air is out of the lines and u get solid fuel out of the loosened lines, stop cranking and tighten up the lines.. Good luck

If the fuel filter was your problem, u wouldn’t get fuel TO THE INJ PUMP.. The inj pump is what pushes the fuel to the injectors..

On your inj pump, is there 2 fuel lines, 1 in and 1 out or is it just 1 in.?? If it’s 2.. make sure u have the overflow valve (pressurizing bolt) on the OUT LINE..(return to tank) If it’s 1 line (fuel in) be sure to loosen the bleeder bolt on the inj pump, so the fuel gallery can fill with fuel..

I knew I was old when I laughed at a cop who drew down on me.. poor guy was terrified.. I REALLY STARTED LAUGHING when he announced, “I WILL SHOOT YOU”.. He didn’t know what to do when I said, “You won’t be getting a cherry”..

U said u bled it to the inj pump.. Does it have a good pulse of fuel going to the inj pump FROM the supply pump.? Does it have an electric shut off solenoid.?? Can u hear it clicking on/off.??

The problem I see with them are broken teeth on the gears, in the inj pump.. The broken teeth will lock the control rack either in the shut off position or the wide open throttle position.. Believe me when I tell you, you really want this to happen in the s/o position.!!

If ur going to remove ALL the shims, rotate the engine BY HAND a couple of times to MAKE SURE the pump cam isn’t going to bottom out into the pump.. THAT would be bad.

Do u idle the engine for extended periods of time.?? Don’t do that.. if your jumping off and back on, that’s fine.. But if you get off and shoot the bull with the neighbors and leave it running, your killing the tractor.. Any more than 5-10 minutes, SHUT IT OFF..

Nice explanation DAVE.. U can buy a tool with alligator clips that has a push button on it.. U can hook it up and stand back or get in the seat AND THEN push the button to crank the engine.. It’s called a: STARTER BUTTON. MOST auto parts stores will have 1..

u can tell if ur on the right track by measuring the shims u have now.. Someone had posted a formula between shims and degrees.. I can’t think of it at the moment.. It’s probably been done a gazillion times.. see if u can search: Kubota PFR timing formula.. The process is the same..between ALL...

I can send u a picture of the drip tube if u like.. Send me your phone # in a prvt msg and I’ll text you a pic of it.

The compression seems ok.?? I can understand the injectors seems ok because of the smoke from the exhaust, but how does one check compression without checking the compression.??

Without going back and reading the whole thread.. WHY r u going thru this.??

The “drip tube” coming off #1 cyl should only be about 5 inches long and curved over like a candy cane.. Fuel start flowing and starts to drip and when the drip gets to 1 about every few seconds.. STOP.. that’s port closure, start of delivery..

I think you’re thinking about this wrong.. The fuel is supposed to be flowing out of the #1 cyl under a bit of pressure, not under gravity flow.. And when the engine is turned slowly, it SHUTS OFF. THAT is the “start of delivery”..

U might b in the “starting fuel notch” with the throttle all the way open.. try pulling it back to half..

U have the decompression lever on..!!

Do u have the throttle about 1/2 way on and not in the shut off position.? It’s a throttle shut off and not an electric sol. right.? Put the throttle on 1/2 way.. If it’s electric, turn the key on.

Quick note but very important… Where it says remove the delivery valve .. they mean THE CENTER of the dv.. NOT the entire thing.. Good luck

If it’s a stuck rack, that happens when low quality fuel is used (bio fuel) and the machine sits..

Loosen the lines AT THE INJECTORS (all of them) and crank the engine and look for fuel squirting out of the loosened lines.. If no fuel out of the lines, that means the pump isn’t pumping.. The mechanic is going to pull the pump.. and probably order u a new one..($1100.00 + service call) It’s...

Before email, they use to ask for phone numbers.. I used to tell the girl asking, “I think your cute too but I’m married and my wife would have a fit if u started calling me.” When asked for email I just say, “No thank you”.. they get the hint..

That looks to be a little “streamy” rather that atomized..?? Are u checking them with a pop tester or with the injection pump.?? If it’s with a pop tester, when u go slow, does it go pop, pop, pop.??

Have u lined up the timing line on the pump with the “0*” mark on the block.?

It very well could be timing.. The enlarged hole is from the spray pattern being off.. Are u torquing the injectors down or just using a wrench.?

I was just “TRYING” to buy some sandblasting gloves.. The ones that come/came with the blaster lasted a good while but it’s time to change them out.. On the website it says, “In Store Only”.. but it won’t allow me to check availability.. how stupid is THAT.!! On a brighter note, I DO like their...

There is a big difference between RPM AND HP.!! B.. all u did was increase RPM’s.. THAT will allow the HP to extend its range before the governor kicks in and slows it down.. IN THE manual does it specify, hi idle no-load speed.?? And hi idle full load speed.?? Usually they’ll list just hi...

The black smoke is simply unburnt fuel with no air blowing out the exhaust.. Engines are not sent out from the factory to their max limit on hp..(fuel setting) One can easily turn the fuel up 10% without harming the engine & notice an increase in hp.. BUT.. what’s 10% without knowing what the...

R u sure your adjusting the low idle screw.?? It should not shut off..

The timing is set with shims UNDER the pumps mounting flange.. so changing is unlikely.. Have u just glossed over the 100 psi compression numbers.??

Why not try sending pictures to this site/thread.. U can send’m to my email if it’s easier.. my screen name at aoldotcom in your home mail service.. AND PLEASE let me know who u r and from what forum..or the problem.. U wouldn’t believe some of the stuff I get DAILY.. from people who don’t...

I’ve only removed a handful of pumps from Mahindra tractors.. so I’m no expert with the removal parts of the equation.. & w/o pictures or physically being there, I’m at a loss..

I take it u removed the nut and washer from the drive shaft.?? Idk how I’m supposed to explain how tight u need to have the puller.?? I remove the nuts/bolts holding the pump to the block and just screw them back on to keep the pump from taking off when it does break loose.. I’ve also used a...

Have you popped off the gear on the front of the pump/engine.??

Sounds like ur gonna need a starter soon.. And you’ve bled the air out all the way to the injectors.?? And THEN tighten them up..

If u have an auto parts store close by, they might have a “Loan a tool” program.. Call and ask..and see if they have a steering wheel puller.

Yes, just so it doesn’t get lost..

U have to make certain you’re on #1 TDC compression stroke.. BECAUSE.. the pump WILL come back with the drive shaft locked, timed to #1 cylinder.. Did u see the post that said the TDC hole is by the starter.??

It’s very possible that the shaft IS NOT KEYED.. Whatcha gotta do it find TDC and lock the pump drive shaft.. U see that 10mm headed screw with the washer under it.?? Once u find TDC, loosen the 10mm screw and remove the washer.. tie the washer to the pump and tighten the screw against the...

How about taking a pic of the pump so we know wth we’re working on..

U see the difference.?? The “mist” is what catches fire in the cylinders.. Hope to hear, ITS RUNNING shortly..

Look at the face of the gear.. Does it have 2 threaded holes in it.?? If yes, it takes a puller to pop off the gear.. BE SURE TO TIME IT OR MARK THE GEARS TO EACH OTHER WITH A SHARPIE before removing.

U did a good thing.. DO NOT PRY ON IT.. How about sending me a pic of the pump so we can talk apples to apples.. Send it to my home email..from your mail service.. to: my screen name at aoldotcom

Another source is, the forklift guys.. Around here they have the hose machine IN THEIR TRUCK/VAN. If u can stop one of’m and ask.. the ones I knew worked for LINDE.. and they STAYED BUSY on the weekends, pocketing the proceeds. (If u know what I mean)

U r correct, no fuel to the lower half.. When u took the top apart the “barrel” came off its locating pin and when u tightened it down, u sheared it.. It’s a good thing it didn’t start or you’d have parts scattered everywhere.. lol I can fix it for u.. but u have to stop RIGHT NOW.. U can...

U only need the rack.?? U can turn the “pinion” 180*. I have the parts.. u can contact me directly at: My screen name at aoldotcom

I need a new set of sandblasting gloves..for my HF blaster When I look them up and try to buy them, it says, IN STORE ONLY.. why.??

Down here in SC the auto parts stores have gotten into the hydraulic hose game.. and cheap too.. Only problem is the O.D. is “a little” bigger.. THAT comes into play when replacing the boom hoses on a Case 580CK.!! So next time your in YOUR LOCAL auto parts store, ask’m if they make hydro...

It very well could be the injectors.. they’re diy friendly to remove.. and the least expensive.. I think the 1215 has an accessible fuel tank, u can look right inside it to check for water on the bottom.. Some injector cleaner probably couldn’t hurt AS LONG AS u follow the instructions.. Good luck

And on the plus side, u could run it on a timer so it’s toasty warm when she goes to it..(probably not a good idea)

David, u can get the number off the name plate on the inj pump, ex: 3234f190 and plug it into Floogle.. The description will tell u whatcha got.. If u need help with the pump lemme know..

It was my pleasure.. Happy tractoring..

Thanks David.. I’d be happy to help..

There’s a gazillion fuel shops thruout the country.. why not try one of them.??

They are rebuildable.. DO NOT buy them off the internet.. they’re garbage.

Swap the one that’s NOT PUMPING to a different line.. THATS to rule out a bad cyl in the pump..

U don’t take the gear OUT.. As a safety precaution, degrease the face of the gear and run a magic marker to the other gear or somewhere YOU KNOW how the gear goes incase it falls out of place.. Other manufacturers put NUMBERS on the gears U SPLIT THE 33 with the 3 on the other gear..and that’s...

Look directly in front of the pump.. (radiator side) there “should be” a separate plate that can be removed to access the gear side of the inj. pump.. If there’s not a cover plate, the whole timing cover would have to be removed.. It’s not out of the question.. That’s how we have to do the New...

My shop is quite larger than yours but I use a DOUBLE HEAD propane heater that mounts to the top of a bbq tank.. u can run 1 or both heads for heat.. I also run a pedestal fan behind it on low to push the heated air to me.. works great..& A LOT cheaper than the kerosene heater I have..

There is an arrow on the name plate..& depending on what color the smoke is, is which way u turn it. I’m thinking your timing is retarded.. SO you want to turn it OPPOSITE THE ARROW. If there’s degree marks on the engine block, use those as start and finish marks.. There’s no set place to be...

If it’s a 3 wire solenoid, u might have straight wired the PULL IN wire.. that one only gets power for a few seconds to start the engine, THEN it switches over to the other wire to “HOLD” the solenoid open.. (Black is ground)

Wow.. that’s pretty noticeable.!! Get it knocking and then loosen the inj line AT THE INJECTOR ONE AT A TIME AND RETIGHTEN AS U GO.. You’ll find the cylinder that’s knocking that way and u can pinpoint your efforts.. it could be something as simple as an injector knock.?? To rule that out, swap...

Yes, the pump times with shims under the pumps mounting flange.. they’ll either stick to the pump or to the block.. Do u have experience going into inj. pumps.?? U can cause WAY MORE damage than u can fix.. But good luck anyway..

I had a similar situation on a tractor I was working on.. New pumping plungers in pump, I overhauled it so I know it was put together correctly.. I cranked and cranked on that thing till the cows came home.!! I loosened the inlet line and fuel would POUR OUT.. I did a compression test.. it was...

Check for fuel flow TO the inj pump.. Check that the shut off solenoid is getting power and operating correctly.. the sol is to the left of the inj pump and has 1 wire to it.. turn the key to the run position and remove the wire.. u should HEAR IT clicking on and off..

Just a smidge..

I can handle the pump repair if need be.. U might have broken gear teeth.. which will lock the rack up just that fast.. be thankful it locked in the s/o position and not wide open.. U can contact me thru here or my screen name at aoldotcom in your home mail server..

Don’t Try to start it.. u already know it ran away.. Remove the solenoid..& then the pump.. I can turn that pump around in a couple of days for probably less than half of that money.. If u want to send me some pictures of your engine and pump, I can walk you thru some diagnostic tests.. U can...

Tell me about it.. I retired 5-6 yrs ago and haven’t had a day off since.!! I tell’m, if I wanted a job, I wouldn’t have retired. 😆

Mine was doing the same thing.. Come to find out, after a face full of gasoline, it was a bug in the tank outlet to the carb.. I looked in the tank and saw “something” strange.. I was looking in the top of the tank when I was back blowing it thru the feed line.. DONT MAKE THAT MISTAKE.!! 🤮...

Mark.. as long as you keep up on the maintenance, oil, filters, grease.. etc. it “should” give u a few years of trouble free usage.. If u think finding parts for the Ford was next to impossible AND expensive, wait for the day that Kioti needs repairing.. Stay on top of the fuel filters.!! Glad...

Pass.. I have a pump off and 1800 that is no longer supported and no hard parts available.. I had to circle the globe 2 x to find the seals..

093245-0140

Hmmm.. try swapping 1&2..

By chance is the knock coming from “the bad” injector.?? Do the same thing, find the knocking cylinder and swap the injector..

But u DO have to take it all apart again.. TO REPLACE THE GASKETS..

If u clean it and it starts working, u won’t know if that was the problem or not.. FIND THE PROBLEM FIRST.. THEN fix it..

That would be acceptable.. but ur gonna want to replace it with new when done with diagnostics.. U don’t have to put the injector return line on for the diagnostics..unless the line goes back into the filter.. If it does, just pinch off the line so it doesn’t suck air into the filter. Good luck

I do so many of these that it’s hard to remember what size they are.. 15/16.?? 1-1/8.?? Actually they’re metric but standard sockets work just as well.. Incase you haven’t thought of it, u have to replace all the gaskets when u reassemble it.. The bottom of the injector takes a copper gasket..1...

Use the larger hex on the injectors ONLY.. If u use the smaller hex, u stand a better than average chance in unscrewing the 2 halves of the injectors.!! There’s all sorts of springs and shims in there that will be hard to locate..

U need to see IF the pump is pumping fuel TO that cylinder before u go to the injectors..

The only way I’ve been able to loosen the nuts without breaking the line is with a hand impact driver / w a hammer and a 17mm socket.. Otherwise the line WILL TURN AND BREAK THE LINE.

If your machine has the filter that’s held together with the long bolt thru the center, the top oring goes UP IN THE GROOVE IN THE FILTER HEAD.. NOT ON the filter.. Seeing it petered out on its own, your gonna hafta bleed the injectors.. just loosen the line nut a couple of turns, and pull the...

Before u start it again, loosen the steel lines AT THE INJECTORS .. for that matter u can take them off.. Slide the nut back so u can see the end of the line when sitting in the seat.. Now crank the engine & watch the fuel squirting out of the lines.. Are all 3 pumping fuel.?? U can’t tell the...

Change the f filter and get back to us.. There is a bleeder screw on the injection pump, by the name plate.. it’s a double screw with a 5/16 head.. loosen the 5/16 and crank the engine and look for air bubbles.. wait until u get solid fuel and tighten the screw..

Jeff if u want to send me a picture of the pump and point to where u think the fuel screw is, I’ll lead u down the right path and try to keep u out of trouble.. My screen name at aoldotcom

If u still have any questions about the injector, swap it to another hole..

U still haven’t said where it’s leaking from.. Seeing u bought gaskets, plural.. I’m gonna jump out and say u think it’s the delivery valve holders that are leaking.. where the lines screw to..they MUST BE TORQUED BACK DOWN..

When u hear a click, then nothing happens, and then no lites on the dash, 9 X out of 10 it’s the battery cables not making a good connection.. Get a battery terminal/cable cleaner.. they’re like $2.00 at Harbor Freight..& do a fantastic job at cleaning the posts and cable ends.. If u SEE GREEN...

IDK if your aware of it or not but u have to pay attention which way the pistons go in.. Some will have an arrow on them, but u still have to know which way the arrow goes.. Also, mark your rod and rod caps 1/1, 2/2, 3/3.. U might wanna buy some “plasti-gauge”., to get the correct rod bearings...

Depending on where it’s leaking, u can’t fix it in place and it needs to come off inorder to be repaired.. If it’s leaking between the aluminum hsg and the steel head, U DEFINITELY CANT FIX IT INPLACE. If u remove the 4 screws to release the head, all the guts WILL FALL OUT.! If u want to send...

Just to keep you on the right path.. there is no 1 seal that’s leaking.. U have a pump called a PFR pump.. Google it.. The fuel is sealed internally by metal to metal sealing surfaces.. There are orings that keep the fuel from leaking EXTERNALLY.. If u have fuel in the oil, so bad that it’s...

Lol..^.. I had a customer that was picking up a pump one Saturday & wanted to know “how late” is to late.?? I said, u better get here before the sun goes down, cuz I start shooting after that.. He made it in plenty of time..

It would spin faster if u took out all the gp’s and did the test.. I don’t recall ever doing it 1 x 1.. If u wanted to do a “backyard” test of the fuel system, u can remove the steel lines from the pump and injectors, turn the lines around to where they point to the outside of the engine...

Fuel pressure.?? I thought the inj. pump was gravity fed.?? The fuel went from tank to filter, then to injection pump.. let me know if I’m mistaken..

That’s a very low compression reading.. how confident are you in the test.?? Are u taking it from the glow plug holes.?? Have u tried another compression gauge.?? U can rent them for some parts houses.. AutoZone..

If it has a PFR injection pump, they’re known to shear the teeth on the gears inside the pump.. causing a no start condition OR a run away.. Do a search for PFR injection pump.. and see if it matches your inj pump.. If yes, there is a tutorial on this site that someone posted when they did theirs.

It really depends on what fuel system and injection pump u have. Are u sure it’s not just going into regen mode.??

Yes the main shut off solenoid is in the top cover.. The bottom gizmo is a Cold Start Solenoid.. only active on cold starts.. If your machine keeps blowing the solenoid fuse, it’s not the pump.. It’s the sensor in the filler neck for the cooling system.. Go up to the thermostat hsg and find the...

THAT certainly would be the lesser of two evils..($$$) between an engine o/h and an inj pump o/h..

You do know that you can’t use a compression tester for a gasoline engine, dont you.? The gauge doesn’t go high enough.. Good luck with the testing..