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With key on and alternator not spinning up lamp should be on, if alternator spins up with engine RPM and light does not go out it indicates alternator is not producing....

IF it is failing I would simple replace it with a nipple, 90° elbow and barbed fitting...

Out put voltage at B+ terminal of alternate when proper charging should be 14 volts (+/- 0.2 volts).... IF not alternator has a problem... If there is a regulator associated with alternator it could possibly be problem... Also check if system has a ALT lamp. some systems require a shot of 12...

I believe length of PTO shaft is more determined by distance for tractor to implement than rather what category it is.... Haven not seen a "standard" for over all length, always seen statements about sliding overlap if shaft required for safe operation though...

There is also a MF forum where you might get a more direct response from some one with the experience with same problem as you are having....

You are not going to find much in line of Miller, Hobart, Lincoln, or ESAB quality for size you want for what you have budgeted.... Guess Harbor Freight may have something that is useful for your budget numbers.... Personally I would go with either a Hobart Handler 190 or a Hobart 210MVP....I...

Might go to AGCO site and lookup parts/repair manual for this machine.... Use "guest" login whenever possible.... https://apb.agcocorp.com/# Would suggest purchasing "Shop Manual" for machine to help with these sort of problems.... IF machine is hydrostatic drive (transmission) most likely...

For brush work also consider front hood guard... Big piles of brush tend to spill over top of bucket and onto hood of tractor and if you have forward radiator it could get serious... This was thrown together from a bit of 1 inch angle iron that was in scrap pile.... Might even consider...

i would think minimally 6x6x3/8 inch (H beam) .... Which is slightly more robust than my 22 ton stand alone splitter... But size of beam may depend on how much tonnage you can engineer into splitter (pressure/ram size) ...

I got new stretch on urethane tires for my old Craftsman Professional band saw... It is sort of a odd duck as it cuts on left hand side instead of right hand side.... PO did not know that and could not understand why it would not cut... Sold it to me for $20 at yard sale, because it did not...

Fall back solution is follow lead off glow plugs back to where ever it goes, it will eventually terminate on relay or key switch....

if its a B&S it is probably the seat for float needle valve, to remove one machining step in manufacturing they use a Neoprene "O" ring as seat, and no matter how well you care for engine its seems to swell up and foul needle... Every Briggs I have dealt with in last few years has has this...

I do not rent out or loan tools or anything else because IF they come back they are usually broken... MY dad had a policy I grew up with, if you borrow something and you damage it you either had it repaired or you replaced it..... Great concept, except does not seem to work in this day in age....

Good counties that have the resources usually try to keep easements clear for safety and maintaince reasons....

OK enlighten me, I admin that my thinking the pressure relief valve would have protected valve body was wrong, BUT for the fact the relief path was probably through tank port which is blocked by closed (disconnected) QC....

There is already a couple of threads on 3PH log splitters... You may want search them out and read up.... Personally I would have stayed with the stand alone splitter, because it leaves the tractor free to move wood around work area ... Other issues are the GPM and PRESSURE of tractor...

Multi tined forks are more effective for brush/limb moving...

Once you get it all together check pressure setting of relief valve.... Housing should have never blow if relief valve operated properly even with tank line blocked.... Coupler probable problem was that it was never seated and locked correctly from day one.... If its still under warranty...

Ballast box, log puller, tool carrier, trailer hitch.... Anything useful that can be mounted in receiver.... IF nothing else you got a draw bar worth about $40 retail...

Simplest test is as other mention remove cap and try it or check cap vent.... A vacuum in tank will keep fuel for being drawn to carburetor...

Is there a clutch on the mower PTO shaft? ....Something similar to image below...

Have you tried looking for "Shop Manual" on line if one did not come with tractor? http://www.gaaged.org/docs/sidemodules/15334_WORKMASTER%2035%20-%2040%20Operators%20Manual.pdf Maybe....

Hobart Handler 190 if you don't need dual voltage (120/240) .... I have a Hobart Handler 140 its been good for 8 years and does 95% of my welding (120VAC machine), wished I had gotten the Hobart Handler 210MPV though...

Specs/part numbers for filters and hydraulic fluids and engine oils should be in owners manual... That is where I would look first.... Then Google search tools are great help...

Of course Generic is going to be different from Proprietary....

IN concept it seems good... You need to develop it with Gee Ray's comments in mind... You could try a QED (Quick En Dirty) trial with a piece of PVC pipe to prove concept...

https://antique-tractor-parts.steinertractor.com/tractor/John-Deere-2520-Wiring-Diagram https://aplusmanual.com/2116/john-deere-2520-tractor-service-technical-manual-tm1004 Might be worth the investment.......

Mechanical (works with mechanical tachometer) or electrical (digital)?...

Ahem.... Re read my post, 38 years in the communications, the buggy wiring picture was a work in progress, it was one of my hobby cars....

ON my SCUT the pin for 3PH arm is about 4.5 in forward of center of hook for lower pin of QH (cat 1) And yes bolted on tab keeps pin pushed all the way in so the bracket that keeps drawbar from spinning has a length of pin for easy access when connecting up....

Here is the comment that is going to upset a lot, soldering produces a rigid brittle joint subject to failure from vibration..... The aircraft and automotive industry has completely gotten away from soldered connection in wiring harnesses.... Yes I agree soldering is probably simplest in...

All hydraulics leak down eventually...... You either have a leaking control valve or bad "O" rings in lift cylinder.... IF its not to severe easiest thing may be to live with it....

Another failure on how a webpage is managed to force people to join.... Its sort of like a sales site that forces you to create a account before you can see their products (WISH.COM)....

Solved... Has one made up down in the valley, not impressed with how it turned out, maybe if I have to do another I am going to different shop....

Your "U" bracket has limited among of flex or motion, if you have really rough terrain you may come up to the limit of "U" bracket motion and the whole linkage becomes a solid bar and it can still put strain on tail wheel.... Chains have no limitation of movement... Try placing tractor and...

Just replace bars #2 with chains.... IT can be that simple....

Got the digital calipers, got the thread gauge, got the Discount Hydraulics PDF... Spent a hour with hose off tractor and on work bench, numbers are close but no match... Some of the diameter are as much as .020 off and that is just enough to leak and screw up threads or maybe not go together...

Exactly......... For what its worth also found out "Discount Hydraulics" can make exact hose to spec for $22.08 plus tax and shipping If I can identify correct fittings......... The 2 hour round trip and plus wait time and fuel costs ($16.00 @$3.99 a Gal.) makes online inviting...

Finally found parts book for DL95 loader if anyone needs it... https://na.apb.agcocorp.com/p/masseyferguson/79036537/l Unfortunately GOOGLE search can not find part number...

Probably true, but nearest hydraulic shop is 35 miles away and next door to dealer.... But dealer probable will not have hose in stock...

I have a hose leaking on my DL95 loader, its about 34 inches long and goes from the "B" port at cluster at floorboard which is for the loader arm lower/float "T" connector.... Believe it to be a 1/4 inch line as it connects to the Safeway S40-2 quick connect (actually the S41-2 Male half -...

I think weight issue is border line, and you probably should get a bigger trailer.... What bother me somewhat in picture is axle placement of trailer and a lot of weigh of tractor forward, kind of wonder how much tongue weight is on hitch? Also some states (like Kommuist Kalifornia) require...

If its a male end QC and has ball as valve (seal). you can cover with rag and tap (lightly ) with hammer and it will squirt a bit of oil out and release pressure....Loader probably should be supported though to keep line from repressurizing as weight of loader remain on hydraulic line... TO...

Another thread on how to set up BH... https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/threads/bush-hog-setup.437944/

Or maybe give instructions or demonstration so you can do it yourself without accident or injury....

A thought..... Why would you consider selling you expensive tractor at a loss, to buy new tractor to solve your problem, when a day or two of work with a hired dozer would be a lot cheaper, and maybe after holes are filled with dozer you would find out that a new tractor is no better on...

Funny... I made up post to look on other side, but some how missed actually posting it..... Must have been old age mental fog...

Huge misconception here on what top link is....Top link is from tractor to top of vertical part (bars) of cutter.... It is 3rd connection of 3PH, not part of implement (in this case cutter) ...... Chain goes from top of vertical part of cutter to rear near tail wheel.. As shown in post#6... ON...

He does make some 2 inch spacers for various tractors, which some state are the max with MMM, might send off e-mail inquiry and see if he responds about 2 inch spacers.... Don't think 1.4 inch will get you very much for the money...

I made a set of add on forks for brush work....

Maybe something like these... IF you can find them in proper wire gauge...

Contact BROTEC.... https://bro-tek.com/products/index.php?s=&searchc=1&addon%5B%5D=Massey+Ferguson&addon2%5B%5D=GC2400&srt= Extremely happy with the 3 inch one's for my GC 1715...

How far is it to nearest IN & OUT burger joint?....

You problem is not the tractor, but the operator and failure to fill in holes ....

I went directly from battery positive post through inline fuse to after market switch (on dash) to lamp... Grounded lamp at lamp position... Sometime trying to connect into a system the was never designed to be connected into can cause real headaches.... DIY from battery post keeps it...

Why are you YELLING........ And why do you insist on being so "correct".... Every one here understands your first post, its justly that most of us don't care about over priced under nourishes work lamp, when something better is available for less........ Quite frankly I could not recognize a...

Only time in almost 4 years only time work light has been on is to test is to see if it still works....

At twice the price as a after market LED, I don't think so.... https://www.lindstromequipment.com/electrical/pid28232/worklight-36-wat/

Kinda almost same thing, used 20 ton splitter for $200 with blown B&S motor, new B&S (or Honda) motor was 3 time what I could get Preadtor 6.5 hp from HF, bolted right up, got new hoses and wheels and tires... About $550 investment vs about $1400 for new 20 ton... Initially I was going to add...

Hydraulic pump on stand alone splitter or pump on tractor (If capable of that pressure)... Only way you are going to get more tonnage with lower pressures is with larger diameter cylinder.... Graphic is for reference only actual values you have to work with will vary as to what is available to...

Calculator.... https://www.baumhydraulics.com/images/calculators/cyl_calc.htm 40,212 PUSH PSI divided by 2000 equals 20.121 tons

Many times they ARE not balanced.... You may not have issue..... IF no factory marks, don't sweat it...

This site was highly instrumental in my finding proper chain for old/small Homelite saw.... Also had best price and free shipping... https://www.frawleyssawshop.com/chain-codes.html

MY solution was to custom make cart... You can usual make better cart for a lot less then than you can buy.... And put biggest wheels on cart you can afford.... The bigger wheels the easier it is to move across clutter on floor....

Odd you mention that but even seems to be true with my little (48 inch) riding mower....

You may have flex link, but it may not allow enough motion if you have really uneven terrain... Still think chains may give better relief...

Most splitters unless very large industrial have a 24 inch throat meaning it will accept a 24 inch log... Not sure of you concerns of length of logs, when most consider fireplace size around 16 to 18 inches.... Higher GPM rate usually means faster cycle time...... Fast is not always better as...

Umm, diagram of parts (Parts 22 and 23 for figure 007-2.) would help... Think "ptsg" has best solution...

Put a loop on top of box so if you tip it over you have a easy way to hoist it back upright.....

Set up a system if rails (grates) that support equipment (like cattle guard) in front of shop door and pressure wash equipment before moving into shop....

Down force applied because no flex in top link to rear of cutter.... Replace bar with a chain and try that.... chain allows cutter to float on tail wheel...

Maybe if you figure it out, you have solved the issue with the wobbly wheel on the shopping cart and need to tell the grocery industry how to fix their carts... I actually though the tail wheel was a portion of height adjustment so you did not scalp the area being cut... Do you have rigid top...

MY 25hp 1715 will go about 3100...

Problem is Chinese jack, everything out of china is disposable....

Never thought Kroil was that good, always had better luck with PB Blaster.... Pipe dope is winner for taper threads, totally dislike PTFE tape, ...Anti-seize for bolts and nuts is still winner for me...

I would look up specifications from numbers imprinted on connector... This may help you....

Resolved yet? How about update...

This can be your friend.... https://www.delcity.net/images/photos/225px/13065133_primary_225px.jpg

I think the cost in man hours watering trees far exceeded cost of installing irrigation system if this is long term endeavor....

What, 11 or 12?

If "logging" is you winching needs have you considered PTO or hydraulic capstan instead of winch.... Somewhere on site there is a in-depth thread of winch vs capstan... Most hydraulic winches work in either direction, control is probably not much more than directional control valve same as...

Now I know why local store was out of drawbars when I needed one....

This may answer your questions... If all are built to specs. it should not matter unless you believe one brand has better quality then another....

Lift arm pin height will be determined by how low (or high) your 3PH hitch can/will go.... IF you can not set box on ground (flat surface) and unhook it, it means you have to put box on pallet or blocks to disconnect.... I made mistake of putting pins to low and had to add 3 inch square tubing...

Two bolt holes...Done...

Really don't give much though to number of cylinders, for me its all about horsepower and torque....

If I don need chains on my tractor "daily" I just put them in a bucket and hang from any convent "hook" dependent on work I am doing....

Yes there is issue of mid mount lift system connected to 3PH arms.... It needs to be addressed...

You could raise 3PH to top and use "check chains" or "stay chains" to keep it there.... Also find chains useful to keep tool holders and ballast box from drifting down when concentrating more on FEL work......

Yeppers.... Actually have a "FB news feed eradicator" extension for my browser....

Addendum to above post: For me facebook is only for local items of public interest like community politics and yard/garage sales and public notices........ Most of the national news and ad's on FB I ignore as garbage, many ad's seem to be scrams posted buy people who have poor understanding of...

Have you consider labor cost (time) between spray foam and sheet foam.... If you go with sheet foam be sure you have excellent glue .... Gluing sheets to your "bubble" (need better description) may not actually be doable....

Quick and dirty way would be 1 inch water pipe.....

Odd because my Chinese 6.5 HP (B&S copy) on my log splitter is quieter than my SCUT diesel cranking along at 2000 RPM...

With good jack that you can regulate height on and a helper it should not be much of a problem..... Just go slow and don't let tire/wheel take control of situation... Bigger issue would be quality of spacer you might need...

I would call around to local dealer(s) and see if they know of local tractor salvage yard or used tractor sale(S), that might have parts you need....

Never understood the problem with dealing with small engines.... I have them on generator, pressure washer, standby water pump, lawnmowers, log splitter and actually riding mower, once a year I change the oil and tune up on all units ....They always start when I need them when even after setting...

Ummm....... https://www.wixfilters.com/Lookup/Applications.aspx?Section=4 WIX has a really good cross reference system to...

Get tractor electrical diagram and trace start/run path through all safety switches.... As others state a switch is malfunctioning some where along the way.... The two I would look at first is seat switch and neutral safety switch those are most used....

If its a one time operation , this what I would do.... No sense investing in a lot of implements and straps if its not going to be repeat work....

Have to completely agree with this statement....

IF you have decent GPM flow (10 + I would guess) 3PH splitter may be ok...But at 16 tons, its a wimp.... I have oak on my property the makes my 22 ton stand alone grown and almost surrenders to log.... If you have soft wood it may be ok.... Personally if It were me I would stay away from the...

Well I lost my car carrier with 2-5/16 hitch off 2 inch ball, luckily it was empty and in yard.... I only use correct ball for hitch now...

Sort of looks to me like hose just loops both sides of cylinder together to prevent oil for leaking out and keep crud out of cylinder.... By the pictures I can not see any other hoses that can make cylinder operate... Cylinder itself look like it may be typical double acting cylinder if plumbed...

Hope all your trailers use same size ball... Otherwise nice build...

IF you can get it hot enough you can not touch it, its going to be hot enough to release, you only need to raise temp a few hundred degrees, and I would bet you can not get it hot enough with propane torch or acetylene (Prest-o-lite) torch to melt it unless you have along time to apply heat...

Don't have need for back hoe that is why my ballast box was made QH compatible so it fits my QH like my other implements...

Might consider watering at night also, can put system on sprinkler timers so you don't hat to be at attendance all the time and at night there is less evaporation and loss, so water better applied and absorbed into ground.... Would investigate using cheap 3/4 drip line and make with accouple...

I would "FIX" it ..Either repair or replace.... Dent like the is a failure point (stress riser) that could cause tube to crack or bust at anytime specially if it high pressure line ... Probably at worst time for user...

Don't have BH option, made a 600 (+/-) pound ballast box, measure 2x2x1 ft. and holds 4 cubic feet of concrete.... Smaller and more compact than a BH would be.... BUT if you have BH and its mounted it would work just fine, just remember the "bulk" behind you.

Put safety chains on Lynch pins... That way they are harder to lose...

This document may help you....

This type?

You are not the only one to use this method... Works great to hold logs for cutting to fireplace lengths...

Got to agree with "cqaigy2", poorly done previous repair.... Good clean up, lot of heat, get good penetration on fill contact area and my guess is it would be good.... If really into fix you may want to disassemble the effected links and get it on bench and do really proper repair, BUT it...

NO but I did get some real good advice and a technique how to do it.... Its documented in the Massey Ferguson page.... The whole idea was so I could run a log splitter, but a used splitter came along so need was set aside for now.... The secret is spread through this thread...

Set of forks does wonders..... Less the $100 in materials and about 4 hours fabrication time... Also use chain hooks from each side of bucket and sling chain under center tines instead of a grapple....

I would stay with same parts manufacturer/number system to ease compatibility thing... Yes I know about standards but minor discrepancies can be a major headache... IF you need to adapt a hydraulic connector size to a different hose size than is suggested by specification I would just look for...

A sort of yes, here.... A lot of LED come in different color temperatures expressed in kelvin and I believe 5500/6000 k. is equivalent to sunlight... Anything with larger number tend to be into the bright blue spectrum, where lesser numbers tend to be on the softer brown tones.... The brighter...

Ditto.... Dale

I would think versatility would be more important for farm/ranch... ZT would be great for golf course...

Keep in mind Ohms Law.. Volts time Amps equal Watts....Or V x A = W Or Watts divided by Volts equals Amps... Or W / V = A Voltage will always be a constant in calculation whether a 12 or 24 volt vehicle system or 120 volt shop lighting system... Any lamp source that does not state actually...

I have always had opinion that if old grease is being forced out new grease has filled any voids in mechanical connection,,, Over greasing probably cant, creating amess always....

NO welding required....

Be aware there is two different sizes of Quick Connects used on the 1700 series, change came about in around 2017(or so I have been told) .... Look at base of female connectors and get the brand and part numbers on connector, it will be key to what you need to connect up... Going from memory...

Nether am I, I'm more of a hot glue gun artist... BUT you can learn.... Its pretty good skill to have being a tractor owner and operation on large property....

I welded up my own... Cost me about $100 for materials..... Ended up with 5 tines and is width of bucket (about 48 inches) ....Tines are about 30 inches past front lip of bucket.... Some where on site is build thread with more details...Maybe in "Build it Yourself"

As long as sensor and gauge are "matched" and gauge is correct voltage, yes you can....

Most of the floor people in Lowes or Home depot are lucky they can find their way to work, let alone a single item in store....

I hate tape.... Always seems to booger up threaded connections and finally found a "pipe dope" that seem to be within specs for almost all farm/ranch/small wanta be ranch operations.... Even seals where PTFE tape will not.... Use it on all plumbing, hydraulics , fuel, water....

I like rear ballast for FEL Work.... about 500-600 pounds.... JD mower is 540 lbs by JD specs... Yes there is a low bumper on front of dead deere that is wedged under bucket lip....

Have a 10,000 lb. Smittybuilt (typical Chinese) winch on my WranglerX, leads from winch relay box were long enough to reach battery and just put lugs under battery clamp bolts..... Have run battery (900CCA Odyssey) down several time winching to point engine died from low voltage to ECM, and...

Nice.... I need to make one too....

Drive up the hill, drive down the hill, go slow, do not go across face of slope, if you are losing traction and directional control, you are on to steep of a hill, FEL and rear box blade or ballast box (my preference) will help keep CG low if kept in lower positions.... Wheel spacers will give...

Just be aware the tractor electrical may not be robust enough for heavy sustained winching.... And please unspool cable and rewind, it could really turn in to disaster to unspool when you really want to use it, it was obviously wound loose after last use, and it should have been under some...

Is it hose or actual quick connector .... IF just quick connector, look at part number on connector and just find replacement on line... IF its on male end where fitting is swaged to rubber hose you may need new hose..

Basically the valve appears to be a open circuit valve same as used on log splitter..... it should only effect the operation of AB ports if moved from "neutral position"... Valve moving on its own is either plumbed wrong or may be defective... Anyway that is how my interpretation on how valve...

Some times people forget air tools need lube occasionally.... Try the PB blaster thing then follow up with pneumatic tool oil... Or similar product...

Seems to be a China based company.... I have had a few good hit and many bad hits out of China... Tend to try and do all my purchase from US based companies after some bad dealing with China companies.... NOT saying this company is bad, only your experience can tell you....

3/4 inch water pipe?....

Once you get them connected the correct way you may want to mark them to be sure in future if you disconnect and reconnect you don't have this conundrum... https://www.boltonhooks.com/product/8-zip-tie-pack/

My GC 1715 whines in low range (tortoise) but hardly at all in high range (rabbit).... FWD does not seem to make difference...

Check the base of females for a part number.... That is you best clue to proper couplers and buy corresponding mates....

A issue to consider is propane has lower BTU (octane) than gasoline so you will loose a bit of the power generator is capable of (some thing like 8-10%) so be sure your load is below "new" lower power out put....

Little shot of "starting fluid" done carb throat may make it easier to start.... Personally I use carb cleaner, its not as volatile as ether but a little more pizazz then propane, so not quite as much of a shock in engine internals...

Not so unless you do not have a differential, which many tractors do.... Just jack it up, put a pair of jack stands under it and be happy....

The manual for my MF GC1715 has a very similar page.....

Just swap them from left to right side and right to left side and use a couple of washers to space them out from ROPS so you don't pinch wires, and run wire down outside of ROPS and use a couple of ZIP ties to hold wires in place....

Forged in Fire and every one wanting to be a wicked knifesmith has driven anvils to a premium price, a lot more than really worth, every seller has a "premium" anvil no matter "WHAT" shape it is in....

A side note, I found the check chains on QH to be if good use no matter what implement I have on QH, even ballast box....... ITs a cheap fix for maintain QH at desired height if you don't have good hydraulic control....

Lets just call it a ID number and call it quits.... Traditionally a VIN for car of truck describes the major aspect of the build as to year and body style and engine.... Do not know if serial number does this, My thinking is serial number is just a identifier on what number tractor was in...

Just be aware, the tail/turn signal lights mounted on out side of ROPS cost about $125 each... I moved mine inboard.... And yours do not even seem to have the guards mine has....

I just have to wonder how one breaks a bucket level indicator.... Dale

Sound like you may have leaking valve or cylinders that will not hold hydraulic pressure on the down angle of bucket...

I have best results with Rust Oleum, paints.... Specially with items the live out doors... Painted my car carrier with Rust Oleum black 3 years ago it it looks as good as the day it was done, and it live out doors 365...

"Most" gauges I have trouble shot or tested seem to follow what is laid out in this document.... https://gilmore-global.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/03/TroubleshootingGuide.pdf

Anvils do not need to be hardened faced..... A 500 pound block of steels is no going to need hard-faced, most anvils are cast steel today.... Main thing is to not strike anvil face with a hammer... You strike to work with the hammer, the anvil only provides mass to help inflict the hammer...

You never grind down or machine flat an anvil....Period!... Some anvils like Vulcans only have a 1/4 inch tool steel top plate molecularly bond to cast iron base at time of casting, you grind or machine though steel plate and you have exposed the cast iron and have ruined the anvil forever...

You don't need to hard surface a anvil, all you need is a "chunk" of steel (not castiron) to use as a anvil.... Want to buy a low cost real anvil.... These get good reviews from a lot of well known professional blacksmiths.... No the are not a Trenton or Peter Wright or Peddinghaus but will do...

This is the most accepted method most blacksmith use... https://www.anvilmag.com/smith/anvilres.htm

And that is what it is all about, parallel axis.... Does not matter if tractor is on "level" ground or on a hill facing up or down hill......... When rod is even with end of tube, flat of bucket bottom is in same plane as tractor wheels.... IF rod it down in tube front cutting edge of bucket...

I just go with chart on inside door for the ball park figures and "dial" it in from there to get good penetration and bead....

Yes, "tank" needs to vent.... May be some sort of vent hidden (not readily visible) on top of "tank" or maybe in tank filler cap and just plugged.... Dale

Years ago a friend of mine used to have a "boat" repair shop next to a "U" SQUIRT car wash, he could have made a small fortune selling Kleenex tissues to stranded wash the engine enthusiasts...

Was first addition to my SCUT 3 years ago when I got tractor.... Find it useful every day I use tractor front bucket.... Dale

GunK Engine Degreaser and pressure washer or just garden hose with squirt nozzle.... Not familiar with model but if its gas, try to keep distributor dry.... IF you get moisture in distributor cap, it not going to run very well if it starts at all, but you can remove cap and dry insides with...

Think I would try a razor blade first, maybe sharpened putty knife if razor blade does not work, try to get it perfectly between to flange and base and try tapping it in with light hammer blows..... When its loose and off, you might want to make slight bevel on outer side of flange, so if in...

Seem to me a backhoe or excavator with a thumb would work, may have to extend width of bucket and thumb with some steel plate to get full grip, but mostly it may just be up to skill of operator ....

Might all depend basically on shaft size and diameter and diameter of bolt circle to mount it.. What engine is on it now?.... Might be something out there like I did for my log splitter, it came used with badly broken B&S 5hp engine, I could have spent $350 for a new brigs or $375 for a Honda...

This concept is what I was trying to suggest way back in post #4....

This has always been my tool of choice IF I needed a nail extractor.... https://www.finehomebuilding.com/2007/11/14/the-extractor-extracting-pliers-review Dale

Funny part of this my JD riding mower cuts better in reverse than forward........Previous owner actually by passed override so it is full time active.... 12 years now and not a issue... Don't see why it would be a problem with ANY mower if operator is knowledgeable of machine...

DING... Winner.... Any pulling should be done by hooks or rings on chassis.... Pulling to hard with FEL can wrack it out of alignment.... This is what I did for pulling direct from chassis behind FEL because there was no factor attachment point... Dale

I had a problem with my MF GC 1715 temperature gauge and it proved to be loose screw where mechanical gauge mated with printed circuit board.... Most gauges are basically a volt meter, try disconnecting wire at sender in block and grounding it out to block if gauge moves problem is sender if...

I'd bit the bullet and weld on bucket .... Dale

Looks like something any fab shop or semi skilled back year fabricate could fabricate out of steel.......... Maybe somebody with CAD programming and CNC shop could make small fortune making more robust unit the out of something more robust than cast zink.... Even machined aluminums would be...

First thing would be to do is find someone to do the tire change, either a tire service that will come to you or will do it at their shop.... We now the why, but you need to know the how before you plunge in on the buy.... The "How" may make big difference on what you purchase.... At age some...

Recheck and recycle through all switches and levers and controls..... Sometime a lever looks to be in correct place but may be just a tiny bit off and not letting safety switch "connect"...

That bother me because it is 3/4 x16 thread and 21 micron.... GC 17xx are metrics and use a 20x1.5m thread and manual says it should be 10 micron... https://www.wixfilters.com/Lookup/PartDetails.aspx?Part=44232 Yes NAPA filters are made by WIX and lose the 5 in WIX number and you have NAPA...

Like the receiver concept for variable tool mount....

Ring should be firm over cam...If its loose the spacing between pickup unit and ring will vary causing it to be erratic... And don't connect up the leads backwards, electronic module goes POOF! if you do... And there is a set spacing electronic module need to be from ring... Might find more...

I made one, it is mounted on frame/chassis of FEL....Its simply a piece of 3/4 inch black pipe and a tab welded on it and holes in tab match existing holes in FEL bracket.... Was going to put a bicycle hand grin on it, but my silly little town does not even have bicycle handle bar grips...

Think you are looking for a item made of nonexistium....

What exactly are you looking for? Dale

Explanation to you question and my suggestion was answered in #8, by Smokeydog... Dale

The position of the rams will determine level of fluids in tank.... With rams retracted the rods in the cylinders displace more fluid there for tank level is higher, with rams extended the cylinder will require more fluid (volume) to fill space in cylinder, there for level of tank will be less...

Think I would have ended angle with a sleeve so valve stem was still accessible with out having to remove anything.... Dale

Graphically.... https://www.electricaltechnology.org/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/Testing-Diode-by-Multimeter-DMM-AMM-in-Resistance-Mode.png Dale

How about just have people post their resume in sig line....

Yard art....

I think the logic of having all the rams retracted is that the rod side of cylinder takes a bit less fluis to fill... There for more oil in transmission (tank)... its really just transferring a small volume of from tank to rams or from rams back to tank... And manual for my 1715 is basically...

Just curious, but did situation ever get resolved? Dale

Think your diagnosis is wrong..... IF solenoid is removed from circuit, you are removing the problem.... If solenoid is not in circuit then there is no load on wiring, there for no failure of fuse, proves wiring is good.... If fuse blew when solenoid IS NOT in circuit then I would suspect...

Personally almost any style of paste sealer should work as long as the specs are for "oils" and "high pressure" uses.... As motioned above read the application parameters/specification on back of can or tube to see if it is applicable to what you are trying to do... I found this product at...

Yes the table is another of those "will get to it someday" projects, if I was welding more and had more demand for a "table" in shop it would have been done by now....

NO radio flier decals, pan is from cheap HF wagon that all four tires no long would hold air and it cost to much to fix....

Might try putting socket on end of crankshaft (if accessible) and see if it moves any, starter and flywheel may be jammed, and rocking crank back and forth a bit may release it.... Other wise pull starter and bench test as "bearthebruce" suggests... Dale

You can not "secure" anything in bucket with forks.... But hooks allow you to chain up almost any awkward load.... I use my hooks more than my forks.....And actually use chains and hooks to keep large awkward loads on forks... They were actually first thing I added after my tractor was...

Did a complete rehash of old caddy project I started a long time ago and was never happy with it so it was abandon....Now resurrected..... Now IF I can just find my can of Rust Oleum Red (yes it matches MF red) ....... Dale

Since I don't have a welding table I just improvised by using my post (leg) vice I use for blacksmithing... Project was a tool caddy for rear of my SCUT Yes it is a rehash of older caddy that was not really very good........... Dale