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Had to replace a 4 foot hydraulic hose the other day.....$ 84 for one hose....outrageous !!!

Put it in the river like they use to it ends up there when it melts anyway. People think all that salt just stays where they put it but all that ends up in the river no matter where you pile it.

Ready for spring, got tons to do. We get ours from lake effect off lake Erie. Tired of seeing it melt and come back. It never got real hot here last summer. Maybe 1 or 2 days in 90's and not humid. I'll take that over cold and heating bills.

I got 3....

Might have pressure in it making it tight. Like when you try to hook an implement up and can't connect the couplings because of pressure. If you bleed some off might be normal.

Always use a brass pin or even a brass hammer to pound on the pin. You might also have pressure on it by the hydraulics. If it truly stuck you should notice when running it up and down even by noise. Spray it good and run it up and down so penetrating oil works in and take pressure off and start...

Can always use a torpedo heater about 5-10 feet in front for a couple minutes.

The battery came from Napa size 51f....the model tractors I have are listed under my profile pic to left.

Same exact one I have a TM5 and when the bearing went it destroyed the aluminum housing. At that time Messicks had a used one but they wanted $300 for it because they quit making them. Good luck trying to find one. I only paid $300 for the whole thing wasn't paying $300 for one spindle.

That looks like the one I have with a broken spindle.

I have an Iseki and it starts great in winter. Don't even use the glow plugs. Make sure your battery connections on starter are clean and a lighter grade oil helps. I replaced my battery 2 yrs ago and replaced the positive cable to a heavier one and cleaned it all up.

Got tire chains with it haven't needed them yet.

Fuel and compression for a diesel to run, the starter is just to get the motor turned over to pump the fuel. Like they said loosen lines going to injectors and turn it over to see if fuel or air or both come out. If you get fuel it's not the fuel shut-off. Also look for a bad line going to...

I bought one about 15 years ago from Tractor Supply back when they cost $500 and dug many holes with it for myself and others. I had it on my 16hp Bolens and it dug fine but getting it back out was a problem if you hit roots or rocks, no reverse on them things. I now have it on my 25hp Kubota...

You know I have turf tires on my Kubota l-245dt and got chains with it and never had to put them on. I can go through over a foot of snow plowing and it doesn't slip at all.

Thanks just bought it last fall for $3500 with 700hrs. Would never pay $20 or $30,000 for a tractor with a computer. I want it to run the way I want not the way the government thinks it should.

KUBOTA L-245DT WITH HYDRAULIC 3-WAY PLOW

I thought about a used tank from a tractor trailer and making a storage tank out of it. Fill it with 5gal jugs and empty it the same way into the tractors. I'm not worried about the extra work just the price going up and quantity going down.

Another reason to buy a good used tractor.

I always noticed whatever the person owns is the best in there opinion. I have a County Line posthole digger and back blade and haven't had a problem with either. I've dug a lot of holes for myself and others and never had a problem with it. The back blade has been used for snow, dirt, and stone...

Because the computer tells the starter not to turn. Like I said before anything with a computer is junk.

I'd ask $25,000 for it. An 08 is pre-emissions and no hours. People would jump at it. I wouldn't let anyone talk you down, they are just trying to get a good tractor cheap.

Anything can break no matter what the age. I've seen new break and old break. If I can find what I'm looking for at a decent price, I'm not worried about the age, I can fix it myself. Some young kids can't even change a flat tire anymore. I learned by doing it and am glad I did.

I'm not saying somethings they improved on but think of what you are saying with vehicles and tractors. Most of those things you replaced on a vehicle aren't even on a tractor. And with a vehicle electronic ignition was an improvement over points. But then some idiot decided a coil for each...

What gets me is how many mention new tractors and dealers. Most older ones were fixed at home by the owner unless you were unable to know what a wrench was. Now days with the addition of computers in everything unless you have the tools you have to take them to a dealer to get fixed. All a...

My way of thinking is take your time and look around till you find what you need or want and at a decent price. I have 3 tractors a Bolens Iseki 16hp 4wd, a Kubota l245dt 4wd, and a International 464 all used and paid a total of $10,000 for all 3. I got a posthole auger, back blade, and...

Well evidently he needs it or he wouldn't be looking for a tractor at all. And when do the rebates roll out? Do you have a definite date or just hoping they will? And what happens if they don't? Now do you wish you bought the older one or just suffer the extra cost?

Only problem is when does the horizon get here? If you need it now do you wait and hope the price drops? And just like taxes, other than a sale, I never see prices go down. Just the addition of emissions to a tractor raises the price.

I'd go with the older bigger machine. For one no emissions to go bad. You'll wish you had more power down the road somewhere. You didn't state the price difference, which if you are saving with the older tractor you'll have extra cash for other parts you want. Doesn't take much to add a lean to...

Does it go down like it should? Did it go past the stop on the up and down lever? Mine has a float on it. Mine didn't want to go down right till I figured it was the stop adjustment.

Sounds like it's hydrostatic. Must not be getting the same oil to rear.

I bought 3 used and still have all 3....no problems with any of them and it only cost $11,000 for all 3.

Well the best way I found was small rocks to break the scale up. The only problem is once they start rusting it's really hard to stop them. My old International 464 has that problem and I cleaned it a couple times and it comes right back. I'm going to find a different tank to mount on it...

Sounds like the fuel isn't increasing when the throttle is increased. Shouldn't have nothing to do with temperature. Mine will rev up as soon as throttle is increased no matter how cold. Might be something blocking the fuel from getting to pump or injectors. You need air, fuel, and compression...

I've put 4x4 and 4x6 in with a 6" or 9" auger and quikmix and they've been in for years.

Is the stop adjustment stopping the handle to raise and lower the hitch set wrong? Mine has a stop I can set so it raises to the same point every time the handle is moved to raise position.

Good to hear....remember all you need for diesel to run is fuel and compression once it starts. Can't have any air in fuel lines or it might chug but not run right. And of coarse you can't stop the flow with a paper towel either.

Like this....245dt.

I'd measure the size of the radiator and try to find one in a junk yard. Some of the smaller cars should be close to the same size. Just check inlet and outlet positions and try to find a metal one. Junk they make now days....another reason to buy old.

Not only that a radiator is under pressure not like a plastic jug with just fuel sitting in it.

It's not just Kubota tractors with problems. As I said before anything that has a computer is going to cost more in the long run. The computer runs everything and everything has a sensor of some type to tell the computer if it's working right. Every time a sensor goes bad you just about have to...

No I was saying the bottom of the first picture looks like it. And this is his picture so that's all I had to work with.

People are to picky about batteries, think the only thing that will work is the same one. I put the biggest that will fit in the battery box with the most amps I can get at a reasonable price. Never go smaller than what you had but bigger is always better.

This looks like the solenoid.

I had trouble with mine on my Iseki Bolens years ago, replaced the whole filter system with one of those little fuel filters for a car. It's the little see through ones, been working for years now and only cost a couple bucks.

Sometimes if you over tighten it will bow out and not seal.

Your shutoff solenoid should have a electric wire on it and should be around your injector pump. Like I said if you pull it out leave the wire on and turn key to on position not start and see if the little plunger moves in and out. If it does it's ok and probably air in system. Should be...

I have a friend with a Bx23 that had his quit one day. He ran the tractor shut it off and wouldn't start the next time. It was the fuel shutoff that went bad that fast. Electrical components can go at any time doesn't have to be a slow process. Diesels run on fuel and compression. Electric is...

Some have a electric shutoff that stops the fuel to stop the engine. Could be bad and not letting fuel through. What year is it? This is why I like the older tractors without all the computerized junk.

Problem is there are always people that will spend the money no matter how high it goes. Look at the price of a new truck and they keep right on buying them. Until people refuse to pay them prices it will never stop. More reason to buy used and let them spend the money.

Some of the things they changed from them days were good, most weren't and were done to cost you more. Why would you change a gas feed rod to a cable. The rod doesn't wear, the cable does. Why you quit using a potentiometer type knob for your heater speed control to electronic, electronics need...

Problem with that way of thinking is anything with a computer now needs special tools to figure out what's wrong with it. It's like buying a whole set of standard sockets and then they switch to metric fasteners. So you buy metric and they switch to torx head fasteners. Any kind of tool that...

Evidently I don't have to.

Like ethanol which is in gas, 10%.

Sounds like air in the fuel lines. Try cracking the bleeders and turning it over and look for air bubbles. Do it till it stops bubbling and tighten bleeders back up and try it again. A diesel will never run with air in the lines.

Never heard of a tach drive on an alternator, heard of them on a distributor. Why would you even need a tach on a alternator?

Probably because they can get more for the ag tires.

You are only 1/4 higher than Pa but our gas tax is the highest.

I have turf on mine and was going to look for ag tires. Wanted to try the turfs in the snow first and they work fine for snow so no need to spend the money.

I was trying to make it clear you don't pay taxes on a tractor every year you pay when you buy it like anything else you buy.

You should state that better. There's a 6% sales tax on everything sold in Pa not just a tractor.

One of the biggest problems with emmissions is they need a computer to work with all the sensors. I own a 1980 vette, last year before a computer, and no sensors. I own a 1987 Bolens tractor, no computer, no sensors. I own the Kubota, no computer, no sensors. When yours starts going bad and have...

Lots of them out there yet. For one I like the older better built models. I like the gear drives better than hydros. I have a hydro Bolens and it's an 1987 and no emmissions either.

I'll stick with my 1982 Kubota L245dt without the regen bullcrap. Gear drive 600hrs and run it the way I want not how the government decides.

Sounds to me like the solenoid might be the problem if it starts when jumped from there. Them contacts get burnt causing low current to flow through them like a dirty terminal.

I downloaded both the maintenance and operators manuals already and have an operator manual for the bolens. I'll keep both, always good to have a backup.

Check for air in the system.

There they still sell them pull behind backhoes $3500.

https://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200832947_200832947

You might want to make it heavier since the weight is all that's going to stop it from moving while digging, especially in harder ground. Might be better off finding one of them pull behind backhoes Northern use to sell for around $5000 years ago.

I've owned a little Bolens 16hp 4wheeldrive tractor for 15 or more years and it's worked perfect. Only thing I ever had to do to it a new battery and add fuel. Great little tractor which I used to move dirt and snow and mow for a while. Now I bought an old Kubots L245dt with a 3-way hydraulic...

Northcentral Pa here.

I'll stick with the older better built models and without the re-gen junk.

I think you guys are going way overboard on this suing thing. Who's responsible for someone getting hurt on a tractor that never came with a ROPS? What if I sell my car and the brakes go out the next day and someone gets hurt? People sell older tractors all the time without them and I have never...

That's basically what mine will look like. The difference is the attachment. I bought 4 square 1/2 inch ubolts to go around the axle and will weld the bars between the 2 pieces of angle iron which will be 1 on each side facing to the back.

Well my Kubota L245dt didn't come with a ROPS so I'm making my own and will weld anything I want on it.

I understand the drilling part but the welding makes no sense. I'm sure they don't temper these bars they use and that's all the heat of welding would change.

I own a Kubota l245dt and am building my own ROPS next spring. I bought 4 -1/2 x 3 1/4 x 6 ubolts to mount it to rear axle. Going to use 2x2x1/4 angle iron as the top plate on ubolts and weld the square pipe to the angle iron. I'll post a pic when it's done.

I bought a 245dt 2 months ago and was looking for stuff in the forum and noticed your post. That website has every tractor I wanted to know about on it.

Mine has 16.1 rear and 15 fronts.

Check Tractor Data.com

Great tractors.

Ebay has lots of parts for the 245dt....I just got a water pump off ebay.

I found a set of 16 front tires and rims and 24 rear tires and rims for $500 with r1 ag tires in good shape.

Mine is stock Kubota.

I've downloaded a manual from online and it shows 3 different sets for the 3 models of L245 tractors. They have an L245 2wheeldrive, an L245H which is higher but 2 wheeldrive , and an L245dt like mine that's 4wheeldrive and different combination of tire sizes. But all I see for my L245dt is the...

I have a 4wheel drive L245 and from everything I can find it says I should have 11.2-24 tires on rear and 5.00-15 on front. Mine has 5.00-15 on front but 16.1 on rear. These are a turf tire and rib on front. Now wouldn't the circumference of the tires have more to do with being 4wheeldrive than...

Posthole digger on my 4wd Bolens.

I got a bad back and that turning around to see what you're plowing sucks. This way I can just drive ahead. 25hp gear tractor. Don't like the new ones with all the emissions and like gears.

I bought a Countyline posthole digger and a back blade years ago and no problem with either. Digger more than paid for itself doing jobs for others. it was only $385 when I bought it 15 years ago.

Kubota L245dt with hydraulic plow bought for $4000. Will beat using a back blade.

Anyone have wiring diagram for an IH 464. Lots of wires not going anywhere.:confused2:

Anyone have an electrical diagram for a 1976 international 464 gas tractor? I bought one and it runs fine but most of the electric system is disconnected. None of the gauges or half the lights don't work. Looks like someone did some cutting and when it running I see a lot of wires with power...

Anybody know of any other rims that would fit the Iseki G-174 tractors. Mine has 15inch wheels which I think are on 2 wheeldrive tractors. The 4wd like mine should have 16inch wheels, but what I'd like to know is wheels from any other makes of tractor that would fit.

Ok guys I have a small 3 cylinder Japenese tractor and ran it out of fuel the other day. Now it won't start, doesn't even seem to be firing now. I checked to see if it has fuel at the filter which it does. Any ideas why and what can be done to get it running again?:confused2:

:confused2: Any idea why on a hydrostatic Bolens when I push the back of the pedal for reverse it slows down but keeps going forward? It's like it has no reverse. If you let the clutch out it goes forward and the harder you push the back of the pedal the more is slows down but has no neutral or...

Hi just bought a Iseki H1704 and decided to join the forum for ideas and info. Live in nwpa by ny stateline and retired. Bought the tractor for snow removal and playing around the yard.