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I put Amsoil 75w110 in my past two front axles, and use 75w140 in all of my gear boxes. Most of the gear boxes get changed on a very loose schedule of every few years. The gear boxes on my diesel zero turns get changed by the book every 150 hours due to the severe service 6-8 hours per day.

When young, my dad insisted I grease his equipment until 100% clean grease came out. We went through a WHOLE LOT of grease! I have greased my equipment as you do for many years.

Hedges and general vertical mowing were also a secondary consideration for me when I got a ditch bank flail. I guess it all depends on the type of vegetation and blades, but cutting anything vertical so far has been unimpressive for me. It does do a basic hack job up to 6 or 7 feet

I use semi disposable gloves, in the 8-9 mil thickness range. I usually give the grease gun a quick wipe down after I'm done.

That's what I do also. The heavy duty lives in my area all seem to be black, and will snap your fingers good if you're not careful!

Perfect! Nothing wrong with playing with all of the toys! Maybe do one Kenny Rogers style.

They are fast and reliable... No doubt. My only beef is the seemingly random and exorbitant shipping rates. For routine parts and supplies they offer a weekly delivery service in my area for a flat fee. When I last used it was $10.

Also, Low and dense grass like crabgrass will look like that after a cut, particularly when the sun is low in the AM or PM.

Sub 12" stumps could be ground in just a few minutes each. As long as there is no issue with the remaining tree below 4 inches or so, I would just grind them. Backhoes are great when the whole stump has to come out, but then you have a hole to fill, and a stump to get rid of.

I'm afraid that just won't do! There must be a complicated retaining mechanism to hold that thing!

The front axle and built in Jack is awesome. I recently sucked in a very large piece of landscape fabric, which wrapped up in the blades tight before I could shut the blades down. Jack the front end up, cut it out with my pocket knife, and I'm back in business! That was actually the second time...

Plenty of uses for a concrete slab! Chalk art was about the only use my 25x30 basketball court slab ever got... Until I built a pole barn over it 25 years later. Nice work btw.

Warrenton Virgina added a "visitors tax" to our restaurant bill last year. I will never spend another dime there.

The powder will fill the nest from the bottom. The dust applicator has a 45 degree bend so accessing the entrance will not be a problem. If you want to get stung up, it sounds like you are on the right path.

If it ends up not being the cable or linkage, perhaps it's related to the higher rpms required for regeneration. I know the Regen lights are not on, but perhaps the computer is calling for 2000 rpm for a Regen? After ruling out cables, I think I would disconnect the battery for 5 minutes or so...

I use a powder called Drione in a puffer type applicator. Apply at night when all hornets are in the nest. They don't get aggravated at first, and I usually have about 20-30 seconds to get out of the area.

While we're spending someone else's money, plowing a 1500' driveway would certainly be more comfortable in a heated cab. For snow plowing, weight matters. I would be looking for something north of 4000lbs on the spec sheet.

Since it seems there will be a delay in figuring this out, I will add that a red symbol of any type generally means there is a problem that will result in damage with continued use. It may even be a shut down immediately scenario.

CUT tractors don't really excel in powering front mounted implements, particularly power hungry ones. Other than flail mowers, I've only seen front mount brush cutters on skid steers.

I ended up replacing my L4060 battery with a group 24 Odyssey. I believe it was a 24f that has the correct terminal orientation. There wasn't much extra cable to work with, so I didn't want to risk the cables not reaching if I turned a group 24 around (the posts are not centered on the case)...

We dog sit a Black Mouth Cur for weeks at a time. He's a great dog, but an escape artist.

I looked pretty hard on the web and could only find that symbol on a replacement MF cluster housing, but no description. Absent a manual, perhaps you could trace the wiring back to whatever sensor activates it?

No real world inverted experience, but the numerous posts I've read indicate that if your tractor can drive through the snow (blower or not), the inverted blower will work fine. My L4060 begins to have difficulty driving through 20-24" of unplowed snow. Mirrors help, but I use front and rear...

There are those that swear by turf tires in snow, but my conditions and experience are similar to yours... Nothing is worse than turf tires in snow.

I get stressed out with rain just cutting large rural lawns, without the numerous factors apparently involved in haying. I don't know how you're dealing with all that rain!

You do not want ArmorAll on your seat unless you don't mind sliding all around. I use a diluted grease remover for most everything on my equipment, including plastic and vinyl. If you can stand the smell, Simple Green works well, but I prefer Oil Eater diluted 50% with water. I use it straight...

Wow, what a read! I would never guessed that pouring oil in too fast could cause a catastrophic problem.

There is definitely a procedure. Your manual is your best bet, as there are numerous possibilities on how the fuel system is bled on your particular machine. Generally, the water separator / filter can be either left loose (so air can escape) with the fuel petcock open until fuel begins spilling...

Most importantly, it's "one and done!"

In a perfect world, I would have a inverted blower. I make due with a regular rear mount blower with hydraulic rotation and deflection for the occasional to rare heavy snows we get here in Maryland. I would think an inverted blower would be ideal for the OP.

My first 2 tractors were straight geared, next 2 HST. I could never go back to a geared machine for my use. I road my tractor between jobs a lot in High, do the majority of work in Medium, only use Low for stump grinding and pulling real heavy stuff. I have a Hi-Lo in each range which is a big plus.

I've always been on my own well and septic. Ultimately I have paid for the well and septic installation, as well as maintenance and electricity. The state still "owns" the water as a natural resource, and I'm surprised they haven't tried to bill for private wells. I am not supposed to use any...

I use the same 1 gallon oil filling can between hydro and engine oil without cleaning it out between, but that's about as far as I go with cross "contamination". I suspect 1 gallon of engine oil in 10 gallons(?) of hydro oil would not be that big a deal, but I would still drain and refill. I...

What about a high resistance connection on the battery, ground, or starter cables? That could account for it not turning the engine over when installed and spinning the starter when not installed under load.

There is no question in my mind that it was AI generated.

I agree, but on the plus side, it makes it easy to recognize a spam post that's replying to a topic with AI and the spam link.

Higher settings make for a lesser quality cut in my experience. My flail cuts what I consider acceptable beginning at about 3", which I think is where it's set now.

Not an electrician, but I've never heard of a home generator transfer switch on the power company side of the meter. No doubt it's possible, but I suspect the power company won't like it. I would figure out how to install your generator near the panel and do a standard transfer switch or...

I checked... Yes $155. I would still bite the bullet and go OEM for a hydraulic filter.

I'm sure you will like that trimmer. Do yourself a favor and get an Echo SpeedFeed head for it. I run them on my Stihl trimmers, and they feed well and reload much faster.

I use the Gator G6 blades year round, and for my conditions I don't notice excessive blow out from the front of the deck. I also have only scraped the underside a handful of times over years, usually when I have to cut wet. By the time I'm done mulching leaves in the fall the deck is clean as a...

Glad you are enjoying the zd326. It's a great mower. As far as closing and opening the chute, it will likely leave windrows of pulverized material when closed. When I'm mulching leaves I get a row of piled leaves, close the chute then go back over the windrow with the chute open to splatter it...

The rocker is OEM, and I believe the power switch is left up to the dealer (?). In any case, my installation does not use a house clamp... The power switch is mounted in a plastic panel below the fel control lever.

Looks like you'll need the serial number for at least the hst type B7100. As sandman2234 states, Kubota doesn't really use model years.

Sounds like you received everything. Should have the toplink also. I would have to see the 3rd function switch, mine was a rocker switch integrated into the loader handle, with the power switch in the plastic below the fel control. As far as shielding, I bought a nice 3rd function hose shield...

Could be the key switch, but more likely resistance in the numerous safety switches or resistance in the high amp cables (battery, ground, starter). If it's low voltage on the solenoid wire, an easy fix is to add a simple relay that provides power to the solenoid directly from the battery...

I would imagine the clunk you are hearing is the fuel shutoff solenoid. As far as not engaging the starter several times before starting, that is possibly a low voltage condition to the starter solenoid, or resistance in the solenoid itself. It could also be poor high amperage connections on the...

I get between 500-600 hours on each set of 26x12-12 Grassmaster tires on my mowers, with zero failures. I run the tread off of them going from lawn to lawn on pavement, maybe 2 or 3 miles per week.

I think mowing in general is very much like snow plowing... A whole lot of variables that affect the outcome. I find that the higher my flail is set, the worse the cut gets. 3" results in a finish mower cut in normal to slightly high turf grass. If I'm running the flail elevated over my stream...

I blow out the radiator on my diesel mowers after each use with a battery leaf blower. This post reminds me that it's due for a more thorough cleaning with compressed air followed by a water flush.

I have seen string replacements for rotary mowers, but I can't believe that they would last very long at all. Chains or cable would be a dangerous choice imho.

Looks like asking prices are around $11k for similarly equipped 4110 tractors. With your tractor's low hours, I suspect it would sell at that price.

You can't beat the convenience of a commercial chute blocker. That said, if you're a good fabricator I see no reason why a similarly easy to use blocker couldn't be made. I'm not that good a fabricator, so I bit the bullet and bought one.

I personally would also drain, and possibly flush the tank depending on what comes out. I had a contaminated fuel issue last year in my Kubota that I fixed by running it low on fuel for several cycles and allowing a 2u Racor separator / filter to clean the fuel and tank up. It was more time...

Perhaps it's a self bleeding fuel system. My Kubota diesel mowers have (2) filters before the lift pump and one after. I bleed them by just leaving the key switch in the run position (engine off) for about a minute or so and it bleeds the air without using bleeder valves. Hopefully an RK owner...

I checked the specs, and that ditch bank flail is 820 lbs. My 62" ditch bank flail weighs 707 lbs, and it's about all my L4060 (6450 lbs with loaded rears) can handle when fully extended. The actual cutting width is not an issue with my setup. I would be much more concerned about that weight...

King Kutter implements are generally well made. I have a KK tiller that is built like a tank. It's relatively easy to assess the quality of a box blade based on material thickness and weld quality. Tractor Supply implements (County line) are USUALLY well built, but hit or miss with weld quality...

Not the same brand, but my Kubota requires that I be in the seat, engage the pto, get off the seat and raise the seat within a second or two (activating a second switch). Have you tried getting out of the seat first, then immediately pushing the unattended pto button?

I think @ptsg is correct. It's #21 in the attached parts diagram that is labled "breather"

@Melancholy Bear Not familiar with your specific tractor, but the manual vaguely describes that the bleeder is on the filter or filter housing itself. Look for likely a bolt or knob on the housing, and try loosening it while the electric lift pump is running (key in run position, engine not...

Nice setup. Nova was on my short list for a ditch bank flail, but I ended up with DelMorino.

Gauge wheels do make gravel and dirt work easier. I used a rake on my gravel driveway, and adding gauge wheels made it a two pass job.

Many chiropractors in my experience, blow smoke with their claims and assessments. That said, I had an amazing experience years ago while dealing with chronic and debilitating back pain from bulging and herniated discs. A good no nonsense chiropractor alleviated my pain in a few months of...

Hopefully it will be that simple. I burned up one starter on a ZD mower years ago, but that was me over working it with a fuel problem. Mine smoked on the inside, but I'm sure the 12v lug got pretty hot. Are you certain the operator didn't just crank it for minutes on end? In any case, you will...

Here's what I wrote down for my L4060, but I've never tried it : 1. Press Display mode button and hold 2. Turn Key to On 3. Several modes will appear 4. Press Display Mode until "D" is highlighted 5. Press and hold display mode for more than 2 seconds 6. "Want to clear codes? Hold button...

I quit running my small engines dry years ago. Seasonal and infrequently used engines get the fuel treated with Stabil run through the fuel system.

Looks like it's $200 from Kubota, or you could fabricate one with some coarse screen.

I also prefer the push button types over collared shafts. It hasn't come up yet, but a bunjee cord or rubber strap holding the shaft up makes it easier to align and install either type.

I use Gator mulching blades year round. For fall leaf mulching, I have a chute blocker that I use in various mowing patterns to grind it all up. Usually throw in with the chute closed, blow the windrow with the chute open throwing out. The windrow is fairly chopped up on the first pass, on the...

I did the same with a long kombi hedge trimmer attachment... Forget what they actually call it. It was great on my stream bank before I got lazy and use a ditch bank flail.

Funny how I start taking things like my tractor for granted.... This topic reminds me how useful they are. Last week I forked my golf cart on a trailer, to trade it in on a new(er) one. That blade getting bent like the OP's is a new one on me. Last year I got on top of a pine root and spun the...

I use A KM131 as my primary trimmer for the last several years and I really like it. I kept my previous lower HP Kombi as a backup. The power level is adequate. I also frequently spin at low rpm's while trimming fence wire, and haven't noticed any plug issues (original plug). My typical usage is...

The book numbers sound about right. FYI, the front numbers may be for a non loader tractor though. If you have a loader, you may want higher front pressures while doing loader work. I keep 40psi in my front tires because I use the loader a lot, and 12-14psi in the rears of my Kubota L4060...

There are kits available for other brands, not sure about NH. I have seen people hanging suitcase weights on rear blades to get some extra bite.

I ran a 6 foot blower behind a 25 pto HP diesel tractor for many years. Yes, you can bury a much larger tractor using an even smaller blower - it all comes down to speed, cutting width, and snow consistency. There are fabricators out there that enjoy projects such as what you are considering...

You know it's gonna be a hassle, plus you'll have to get it off the trailer. A roll back even with the added expense would be the way to go. As far as the loader, I've never delt with that, but I suspect you could put it in float, jack it up, take it out of float. It should stay up for a little...

That's pretty dramatic. You've tried different blades, so in my mind that leaves something is going on with the right spindle height or rotation. Can you post some photos of the underside, and take some blade height measurements?

Keep in mind that most of the BX machines I've seen have (2) inline filters one before, and one after the electric lift pump. The second filter is there to prevent a catastrophic failure of the lift pump taking out the injector pump. Kubota runs the same filter setup on the ZD mowers.

Don't those take the excess fuel and return it to the tank? I think you should bite the bullet and replace them.

Is there any white "smoke" from the exhaust? I would definitely keep an eye on the coolant level.

I shut off the tank valves and disconnect one side, drain into a coffee can, then install the new filter. Prime one filter at a time until the filter is full (key on, not started), when both are full I open both tank valves and push any remaining air out with the electric pump as above. You...

^^ It's getting easier for me to spot AI generated drivel.

I prefer tandem trailers, and 16' is a good length imho. There are likely more 16' landscape trailers available on the used market also. Laws vary by state, but I believe your gross trailer weight is going to be in brakes required territory, or close to it. In any case, I think trailer brakes...

I suspect the shutting down is not related to the coolant, but sounds like coolant is long overdue. I quit using the radiator petcocks after breaking a flimsy plastic one. I drain from the lower radiator hose, fill with distilled water, run up to operating temp... repeat until clear, but I've...

Another thing to look at is the loader arm crossover tube. If it's twisted even slightly, the bucket will not be level. It's not always easy to see, so get a straight edge on it.

I should have put a little more thought into my response.

Not the swinging Baumalight, but my 1p24 has worked very well for me, and is well built.

The ball joint (Item #240) threads out of the bracket.

My dad also taught me how to use a slide rule and read meter scales, micrometers, etc. I found it fascinating. I wish I had kept the slide rule he gave me :(

Me three. In the back of my mind I believed CC owners were exaggerating the slope abilities of these machines.

I have always wanted a grapple, but the reality is for my use the pallet forks work better for moving brush piles and logs. If I were making the brush piles I would certainly want a grapple.

I updated this in another thread, but FYI my uneven fuel draw returned and I converted the fuel system back to stock. It seemed to draw equally for a while, but after maybe 30 hours (?) it mostly draws from the left tank. I can live with it but it bothers me. Curiously, the left filter is always...

It's not just poor Mahindra manuals... All brands seem to be poorly documented in the manual. Capacities, oil types, coolant, grease points, etc... There are better Universal Tractor Hydraulic / Transmission oils than TSC premium UTF. Many users here on TBN use TSC UTF Premium fluid with good...

When I last researched vacuum / mulchers, I decided on the Cyclone Rake brand, with DR Power a close second. I never pulled the trigger though.

It is actually quite common for the front axle to take 80w90 gear oil OR Universal Tractor Hydraulic / Transmission Fluid. The viscosities are very similar. My preference in the front axle is gear oil, but Kubota specs either gear oil or UDT.

Some people can break an anvil. I can see someone ramming a garage door with the rops, but not paying for the damage is real telling.

Uhmmm. I guess it all depends. If I borrowed a neglected piece of equipment I think I would grease it, but likely not if the owner was the regular maintenance type. I would not want my stuff to receive routine service IF I loaned it out (which I generally don't do). I do occasionally loan out my...

Everyone has there own procedures, but on spindles I don't grease until I see grease. I give each one 6 shots from an electric grease gun and call it good every 30-40 hours. All other grease points get grease until I see some push out. BTW, maintenance conscious people almost always seem to...

I checked the link, and to be honest, nothing seemed odd except the price. I'm usually pretty tuned in to potential scams, but this one may have gotten me if I were in the market for a grinder.

Wow. So glad you weren't hurt worse, but certainly sounds serious as it is. Wishing you a full recovery

If this is a commercial delivery, I doubt the driver will allow a questionable unloading procedure - nor should you expect any help from the driver. A lift gate truck would be easiest, or maybe find a neighbor with a loader and pallet forks.

My L4060 has been problem free with emissions, electronics, and everything else over the past 9 years and 1100 hours. It's gone through 20 regens while working, averaging 53 hours between.

I was in the same decision making boat last year... Too many options and conflicting information. My use is quite different; main objective is to mow a stream bank and occasional field type cutting, so I got a 62" Del Morino ditch bank flail with hammers. It gives a better cut than a brush hog...

I think all of those brands have quality mowers. The Stihls I believe are rebadged Ferris mowers, and with suspension, would be comfortable. For gas engines I prefer Kawasaki, Yamaha, or Honda. My Kawasaki walk behind is 22 years old and still running perfectly.

That's a normal interval for the "standard green" coolant that comes in all of the Kubota machines I've owned. The first coolant service gets Zerex G05 hybrid coolant with a five year service interval. There are other long life coolants that are popular, with even longer intervals. I would read...

If it helps to estimate, my Kubota 6' light material bucket holds 10.9 cf (0.40 cy) struck level, and 13.1 cf (0.485 cy) heaped.

The problem from a landscaper's perspective is that most clients want their grass cut (scalped) very short, thinking it looks better and will require fewer cuts during the season. For tall fescue lawns prevalent in the northeast, I compromise and cut the "scalpers" at 3.75", and a few others at...

I don't sharpen the mulching wings. In my soil type (no sand) the lift wings see little, to no wear.

Same here... This thread is a prime example of how "we are many, and varied". To each his own! I occasionally cut some wild patterns in my lawn which gives the neighbors something to talk about.

That sounds familiar! I'm currently looking at smaller batwing finish mowers, but storage is an issue.

I would look at all of the safety interlock switches first. Operate individual switches (pto, hst pedal, brake, clutch, seat) one at a time and try starting. You likely won't have all of these switches, just listing all possible.

The general idea is to allow the clutch to slip before the tractor stalls. If it really pulled hard on the tractor when your clutch began slipping I would call it good. If you feel like the tractor engine had more to give, then you can turn the clutch bolts a very slight amount clockwise and...

I would imagine the blades would have to be pretty rounded off to have cutting issues, and even then the amount of blade overlap should make up for it. I've always read that the majority of grass is cut with the last 1/4" of the blade, and to keep them square.... So I try to keep them that way...

Maybe cost 2 sets of blades, but I generally get 600-700 hours out of a set of blades, so jig and balancer have more than paid for themselves. I don't have sandy soil, but i'm sure it eats blades.

That's definitely the wrong fluid for use in your tractor. Amsoil does make a Universal Tractor Fluid, but it is equally expensive. I use Amsoil greases and engine oils, but I just can't stomach the price of their UTF.

I use a jig to get a consistent edge using a 40 or 60g flap disk. Sharpening every 30-40 hours I can keep the tips square, and they get balanced each sharpening.

Possibly your rims are turned out compared to what you have seen with other same model tractors. I would not consider a blower that was 4" narrower than the tractor footprint.

Holy crap! That's quite the photo! I worked on a dam construction site years ago, and one shift of miners had a party on site after their shift... The entire shift was fired.

I'm not that knowledgeable on tractor front axle types, but I suspect most, if not all of the components are rotating whether the 4 wheel drive is engaged or not. I would not use the tractor until repaired

I shoot for every 40-50 hours on my zero turns (but never over 50). I have about 2000 hours each on the zero turns with no failures.

Welcome! We all have something to contribute, and there is a very wide variety of experience here on TBN.

I'm sure that's true for 99% of homeowners. When I did the math for my use of cutting about 1000 acres per year, diesel pays off... but not by much. That said, if I were only cutting my 6 acres, I would still have a diesel for the easier fuel handling, quiet engine, and longevity.

That trail mowing sounds like a leisurely job. How do you deal with hikers on the trail while mowing? The rural properties I cut they stay off the lawn when I'm mowing, but not so much with dogs.

I have also questioned Messicks shipping rates, but in your case there is a difference of around 1000 Miles. I am close enough to Messicks (about an hours drive) that they offer $10 flat rate delivery on a certain day of the week. I generally pickup fluids, and have the small parts I don't...

I prefer diesels. The ease of fuel handling alone makes it worth the extra expense for me.

I never used the Luberfiner filters, having only read of paper towel rolls being used in them. The Motorguard TP filters that I used were all bypass filters. The only reason I stopped using them is that TP rolls were shortened around 15-20 years ago, and the Motorguard canister wouldn't slightly...

I read that as "A" stating to generally operate at a reduced "load", and "B" IF you operate at basically idle for 30 minutes, then follow that with higher rpm work of 1500 OR MORE for an hour. It's not really critical, just don't unnecessarily idle, or run the snot out of your new machine for...

Plenty of people used TP filters, myself included. I believe trucks used a brand called Lubrifiner (?) with paper towel rolls in huge cannisters. I personally used single TP roll filters in what was initially designed as an oil filter, then rebranded as a air compressor filter. The brand was...

Fiberglass rebar MAY be good when encased in concrete, but I would not use it for anything else I can think of. I used steel rebar in my barn slab, and patio.

That is a curious failure. My first thought would be to check the linkage, although I'm not sure how that would activate the brakes while in use.

I use a 108 gallon transfer tank mounted to a pallet made of 4x4's on the bottom and 2x6's for the top. I set it on a large wheeled steel dollie so I can roll it around in my barn. As far as securing it in the truck for fueling runs, I have a large 20k lb cargo net that I just throw over the...

It will continue running if I shut off the empty tank, but then it starts filling up again from the injector fuel return line.

It wouldn't take much to add a charging port. I've been tempted to add a regular 12v cigarette socket, then just plug one of the many USB ports into it. I suspect there are straight USB 5v power points that can be wired to 12 volts also, but I've never looked for them. I did wire SAE 12v...

I use a magnet exactly like that on my tractor for lynch pins. I also like the magnetic rings that used to come on the hydraulic filters.... Perfect size for the job.

I just finished cutting 5 acres of thick 8" spring grass with a 72" side discharge ZD1211. Cuts like nobody's business. It won't blow through high grass like my previous ZD331, or the current ZD1611, but I do not find it underpowered.

I take my brush guard off for winter plowing. It attaches with (4) bolts

They can be a bear, particularly on the first change from the factory. My methods : Standard strap filter wrench Chain wrench Filter wrench that engages the filter base notches Tapping or air hammer on the base notches I really avoid ramming a screwdriver through the filter, but I did resort to...

I used roofing tar on the posts of my first fence... I don't think it helped at all. I redid the fence a few years ago, and just sunk the ground contact posts in straight dirt. I did use dry pack concrete on the hinge side posts of a cattle gate, but that was the only one.

In my jurisdiction homeowners can grow a reasonable number of plants for personal use. It can't be too difficult on a small homeowner scale, as quite a few of my lawn customers have flourishing plants. That's gotta take a bite out of the commercial growers (and the government!).

My Dad had one of those that I cut my teeth on in the early 70's. It was a very durable and useful machine, but very uncomfortable to operate compared to more modern tractors.... Loud, vibrations, and slow. When he passed a few years ago he specifically wanted me to have it, but I just didn't...

Having used both tips, I prefer the fish tail type for our clay soil. Sharpening or reversing the auger bits also makes a big difference.

My 32 HP at the pto tractor easily runs a 62" flail, but as @dieselscout80 mentions, ditch bank flails place a significant offset load on a tractor. I would not hesitate to run a 7' (non articulating) flail on my tractor, but 62" of ditch bank flail is about all I would want to handle. For...

That's the same issue I was having across multiple pairs of Redwings. Plus they were far from the advertised waterproof.

I wear boots all day, every day but it's not very severe service. The Redwings that were falling apart (literally) were glued several times to get to close to a year! They did replace one pair, but the replacement was equally poorly made so I just gave up.

I think you are on the right track!

I was a Redwing diehard for many years, until their boots started falling apart after less than one year. In their defence, the boots falling apart were apparently imported hiking style boots, but they came with a Redwing premium price. I believe their legacy boots (like Pecos) are just as good...

Lots of good ideas and methods. For many years I had been storing my implements in a cargo container and shuffling them around seasonally - It was a royal pain. I put pallet racks in my pole barn last year, and store implements on pallets and fork them onto the rack. Two homemade pallets on...

Synthetic vs conventional will make no difference with condensation issues. Condensation is a non issue with transmissions, but short cycling the engine will create moisture issues for engine oil which is why I always get my machines well into operating temperature before shutting them down. All...

Interesting. I wouldn't expect the hydro motors to put off enough heat to damage grass, or even radiant heat from a reasonably placed muffler. My tractor will kill the grass from the exhaust, but only from long term stationary use with the pto generator. Kind of drifting off the grass aspect...

I got stung by the same thing several years ago. A relatively high volume consumer fuel station had left several inches of dirt and very small gravel in my transfer tank. This buildup may have occurred over a year or so, but who knows. The tank was only fueled at this one station, but never...

I seem to have the most success with the old school Victor snap traps with the metal bait peddle, and the Victor electronic zapping type traps. I also seem to catch more mice if I relocate the traps around in the space frequently. The electronic traps operate on batteries that supposedly are...

My diesel mowers will get dust clogged radiators, mostly when the grass gets a little too tall and gone to seed. I have a set of water and air radiators wands, and they work great. Frequent cleaning is the key. My general pattern is to blow out the radiator with a leaf blower after each day, use...

Properly stored diesel lasts A LOT longer than 6-8 months! I currently have a drum of 5 year old diesel that I will use up this year in my diesel mowers. I store 55 gallons specifically for long term power outages in a full sealed drum in a small shed. If there is any chance of water...

The real rough and beat up high hour 2040's seem to be (asking) around $6k at the auction houses. The paint issue doesn't appear to me to be the typical throw paint over the rust and dirt to get it sold thing. Other than the non OEM stripes and lettering, it appears to be a reasonable (full)...

You can certainly do that for the flail hydraulics. As far as MechMax, I read (and read) everything I could find on flails before making a decision on what to buy. MechMax wasn't around when I bought, but I ruled out the Chinese flails after reading a lot of complaints about construction...

I don't use flat faced connectors, but I occasionally have to release pressure on my 3rd function lines like this : Turn the tractor off Turn the key to run Power the solenoid, and operate the 3rd function Make connections.

I could never go back after running solid wheels on my (different) mower. I think mine are 6" OAD , and most sizes should be available online or through the OEM. I'm curious what you end up with.

Top and tilt is just hydraulic cylinders controlling the otherwise manual lower arm and toplink connection points. The mower you mention will require (2) remotes to control. I would imagine (guess) that a Kubota shop could add two remotes for around $2k

Definitely clean it up real good and keep an eye on it as @TractorTech suggests. I would be VERY suspicious of the banjo bolt connector nearby.

You should really try out the HST+ if you haven't already. The hi/lol in 3 ranges is a great feature, as well as the other electronic transmission controls.

The Kubota insurance requirement comes up every once in a while here on TBN. My understanding is that Kubota Credit has never required Kubota insurance, but the dealers push it. I have always provided my own proof of insurance, and they were fine with that. Not from personal experience, but the...

I was somewhat forced into 3 point finish mowers when I bought my first used tractor. It came with a severely damaged belly mower, so it was significantly cheaper to trash it and buy a RFM. You won't win any speed races with a RFM, but imho, you can't beat the convenience of them. Additionally...

I replaced the sediment bowl pre filter on my Kubota a few years ago with a Racor 215 series... It's been great. I run 2 micron filters in it, and they generally need replacing every 100 hours which isn't too bad. I could always use the available 10 or 30u filters that would be more typical for...

My retail guess would be around $12-13k if you fixed the cables. Dealer is likely to offer $8-10 (?).

The weekend warrior series doesn't seem to appear on the corporate web site (at least not that I found). Some appear on distributor's sites though, many with "limited" or no stock. Anyway, they appear lighter duty and are about 300lbs lighter than my similar (62") Del Morino. Given Maschio's...

I regret not getting 3 rear remotes when I spec'd my new tractor 9 years ago. I have 2 rear remotes, and with my blower or ditch bank flail I have to remove the hydraulic toplink and use a manual one. Everyone's needs are different though. There are various aftermarket hydraulic options...

That flail will not be a problem behind your tractor. I run a similar width ditch bank flail on my 32 pto hp tractor.

Never had just a straight pipe, but I did change my old B8200 from vertical to horizontal (and a 90 degree lateral tip ) to get the exhaust out of my face.

This is my first snow season with a barn and pallet racks for implements. I can finally swap and store implements in minutes rather than the seasonal jigsaw puzzle when I was storing in a shipping container.

Looks good! Box blades are a very versatile implement.

I would think the 6' would be a good match. Even a 4' box blade is capable of anchoring much larger machines under the right conditions.

Sounds like a big step up with plowing and road maintenance, and a big step down with mowing. Replacing that Ferris with a tractor is going to be a disappointment as far as cutting time and comfort (other than the benefit of a cab).

Glad you caught it early! I keep an ABC in my cabbed tractor, but not on my diesel zero turns. The first thing I put in my new pole barn was a larger dry chemical extinguisher mounted on the wall.

I use a digital meter that plugs into the 12v power port on the tractor, plus it splits into (2) 12v outlets and (2) USB power outlets. I use an OBD2 gauge in the truck (Scangauge2) that displays the OBD2 parameters I want including voltage.

From an expert in a previous life, there is no secure place to hide a key within 10' of a door.

I've noticed this also. I was taught (and common sense would also dictate) to observe power lines of whatever may be reflecting an oncoming car's headlights. I definitely relayed all that kinda stuff to my daughter when I taught her how to drive, and she is a courteous (and safe) driver!

Really those hours are not going to play much of a part in selecting between them. They all should have plenty of life left in them. I personally don't like the idea of rebadged tractors like the RK, but there are plenty of happy RK owners here on TBN. With that list, I would imagine physically...

I just finished hauling 5 loads of Leland Cypress branches for my immediate neighbor with my pallet forks. It would have been an all day job for him to cut it up and haul it away.

Or roll it on a few sections of 4" schedule 40 PVC pipe.

"Project Farm" I believe did a YouTube comparison of diesel additives. I recall seeing several, but one did evaluate lubrication ability. I personally use Power Service Silver in summer, and PS White in winter. They both advertise lubrication qualities.

How heavy are the pallets of feed and round bales? A good starting point would be to ensure that the fel lifting capacity will comfortably handle the weight.

I have had practically zero good results with super glue type adhesives on plastics. I was able to super glue coroplast plastic sign material years ago, but it required a very specific "flaming" technique (for lack of a better term). That's not necessarily related to your nylon material though.

I have had good luck with the various formulations of JB Weld. I'm sure they have an epoxy product for your application.

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Can't help with the rims, but I do know you can put R4 industrials on the turf rims. I swapped my turfs for R4 on the same rims, but had to use tubes.

Through reverse Google image, they appear to be older Massey Ferguson weights if the seller in Chile knows what he is selling.

I replaced the OEM filter on my tractor with a higher capacity Racor water separating filter with 2 micron cartridge. Pretty simple install on the suction side of the fuel system.

You will need to find out what warranty work has been done on the machine. There is one long time user here on TBN that actually got his B3350 functioning through Kubota, so hopefully he will be along. My understanding is that Kubota offers a lifetime transferable warranty on the dpf system, but...

Will dang, that's plain enough. Maybe I looked into one of the earlier enhanced UDT varieties.

Several years ago I researched this issue, and determined that SUDT2 was a synthetic blend. Don't recall the source(s), but it was not just somebody's opinion. Regardless, it's what I use in (3) different Kubota machines, and I'm satisfied with it !

Is your DEF comment an autocorrect typo? I thought the L6060 was still just DPF.

My 40hp Kubota L4060 has the same T4 emissions as the rest of the L60 series, DPF regeneration. I believe (most?) tractors have DEF at 75hp. Over the past 1100 hours it has averaged 53 hours between regens. Shortest was 20h while installing split rail fencing (a lot of idling), longest 93h...

They seem ligit, with positive unbiased reviews on OrangeTractorTalk and GreenTractorTalk. The 3rd party photos also seem to show a reasonably well made rake. I have no direct experience with them, however.

It's refreshing to read a post that the author actually understands the difference between 3 point ballast and wheel weights.

I plow 15 long rural driveways in a moderate to low snow area. I enjoy having a wide variety of options, so I own a rear blower, front and rear plows, bucket, truck plow, and a 30"'walk behind blower. If time (a lot of it) were not a consideration a bucket will get through anything at minimal...

Don't know what to make of 20.8", which is between 20-3/4" and 20-13/16". The width and thickness are also important. I just checked, and I don't know about a standalone pdf, but they do list blades by dimension on their www site. Good luck.

Oregon used to have a pdf catalog sorted by OEM or blade dimensions and mounting hole diameter. Measure yours and see what you can find. FYI, the length is corner to corner.

Late to the party, but I agree that a freshly cleaned tractor can be a double edged sword. I would have cleaned it up also though, and it looks much better! Clean vs. dirty reminds me of my shopping experience for an RV some years ago... Went to look at one, arriving a few minutes early finding...

Did you get these through Kubota? I've been wanting to add iron weights to my L4060 for years. I think it's time I bit the bullet also.

The side discharges will also buildup chaff on the radiator, but apparently much less than the rear discharge. If I skip a day blowing out the radiator I notice the coolant gauge rise a bar or two. I guess there are a variety of grass types / conditions involved, but any rear discharge mower...