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I would not recommend a 72" blower and 19hp at the pto. Sure, you could slow way down with an HST, and take smaller bites, but it's going to aggravatingly slow going in all but the lightest snow conditions.

I also use a standard golf cart for around the property. I have turf style tires that give more than adequate traction.

Just to throw it out there... I don't use float when using my ditch bank flail. It's not really a requirement, but may be useful under some conditions. On my stream bank (primary purpose) I set the mower height with the 3 point, and adjust the angle and offset as I go.

If I do a burn out first, the heat smoothes out the hop.

I prefer gear oil in front axles that allow HST fluid as an option. I personally would not use HST fluid in a gear box period. For a leaking seal your could use a 75w140 in your blower, or corn head grease.

That sounds like the compressor belt is loose, or the compressor is having a problem.

Remove, inspect, and clean all high current cables. That includes the ground strap to the frame, starter connections, and battery terminals. If that doesn't get you going, load test the battery regardless of its age. You can also test the voltage getting to the starter solenoid upon activating...

uhmmmmm... I never thought of adjusting my hydraulic toplink, then unplugging the lines. The toplink will stay in position? That would be a lot simpler than swapping the hydraulic toplink with a manual one when I use both remotes for my blower.

I ran my 72" blower on a 27pto HP hydro and a 32pto HP hydro without issue.

Try ebay or Amazon. When I was burning up solenoids on my Kubota ZD mowers due to heat from the manifold, I found exact replacements all over ebay / Amazon. Finally fabricated heat shields over the starter, which worked very well and haven't burned up a solenoid since. Post a picture of your...

X2 on topping off with oem fluid. It's unlikely that another brand of compatible would cause problems, but I wouldn't do it.

Never really thought about that. Makes sense, as it's pretty universal for end users to lube the gasket when installing a new filter. Pretty sure they wouldn't at the factory.

Yikes. The gear box seals are on a schedule to be routinely replaced on my Kubota ZD mowers.

Yes they can be a bear to remove, doesn't seem to matter the brand tractor. My "go to" has been the chain wrench, but I had more room. I have also used an air hammer positioned right on the base when there are machined slots on the filter base. Definitely cut any paint that may be at the base...

The L60 series is limited to (3) sets of OEM remotes, but there are several aftermarket options to get the (4) remotes you want. Summit hydraulics is a popular supplier. I have (2) sets of OEM remotes on my L4060, and am in "Analysis Paralysis" over biting the bullet on adding (1) additional...

We hiked for a day on a military range near Yuma maybe 30 years ago. Amazing what's on the ground or there! We found anything from WW2 50cal brass, to small rocket parts (air to air?). We checked in at the base and were allowed to be there.

Could be wrong, but I think the TBN administration discourages posting AI generated material. I personally prefer not to read AI here, as it's frequently incorrect or too generalized to be worthwhile. Posting an AI generated response or comment with a clear statement that it's AI is certainly...

If you go to KubotaBooks.com they have the WSM that covers the various codes. Beginning at Section 9 -S4

Interesting. I don't have it so bad as many here. My property has been farmed since the mid 1600's or so, and I occasionally find metal that dates to at least the 1800's. Mostly harness related equipment of all things. The land became a large dairy operation in the 40's through 80's, and from...

It's on page 2 of their products section. Even at just 3 amps, it charges my cart overnight for my average usage. I haven't used the 20 amp OEM charger much at all this year.

I am referring to the structural tube that connects the two loader arms. If ever so slightly twisted or bent, it can show in the cylinders being at different lengths. It usually also presents with an uneven bucket while on flat ground.

In addition to what @TMGT states, it's possible to damage the crossover tube between the loader arms. Similar symptoms will result, and the damage is not always obvious.

@John_Mc , I thought I was particular about batteries and chargers / maintainers!!! I also like the Battery minders, and rotate the 8 amp and 1.5 amp around as needed. I like them so much I bought a 48v BatteryMinder for the golf cart.

Totally normal, and unrelated to being filled. If my tractor sits for a week or so it's got a little hop in it for a little while.

Not standard, but the company I got mine from years ago offered doors on both ends.

I know my L4060 cab will not fit height wise in a standard 8' tall (exterior) container. On the positive side, it did force me to build a small 32x32ish pole barn! If I were getting another shipping container it would definitely be a high cube with doors on both ends.

Not sure about MF, but my Kubota would require dealer intervention via a computer interface to deal with that. Even though it's possible, I have NEVER interrupted or delayed a Regen to avoid dpf limp mode issues. Perhaps there's a manual forced Regen procedure in the manual?

I believe the BX tractors have (2) fuel filters inline. Did you replace both of them? It sure sounds like a fuel delivery issue.

I think your options are: SSQA hydraulic blower with rear power pack. SSQA blower with separate engine. Both will likely be equally expensive compared to an OEM front mount blower.

No direct experience, but I have read that a 3 point backhoe is very hard on a tractor. Having personally snapped off a lower link at the case (not with a backhoe), I can attest that there is stuff on a 3 point hitch that can break! (and it was expensive)

Welcome to TBN! Short and unusual replies in the middle of a thread is a very common way that spammers introduce links and ads. Other than the lack of an advertisement or link I suspect it just caught his attention as unusual. Regardless, this is a fantastic forum and I look forward to hearing...

Not quite what you are suggesting, but I took the brute force route on my Kubota L4060 and replaced the oem water separator / filter with a Racor water separator / filter (2 micron). Much larger capacity, plus my oem initial separator was basically a strainer (steel mesh cartridge).

I'm not usually a fan of a bandaid fix without a real diagnosis, but have you considered installing a block heater to ease your difficult cold starts?

Not familiar with your particular machine, but the best place to start is to remove / clean / tighten all cables and wires in the start and cranking circuit... Including the main ground to the frame. Also load test the battery. If you hear a momentary "click" when trying to start the tractor...

I have read of bottle seals being found in fuel tanks and engine oil, but no first hand experience. I am now very conscious of the potential issue.

Thanks for taking the time to post the pics. Mine are bolted on, and removing them takes maybe 10 minutes but there is nowhere to store the plates. Looks like with a welded on hinge and a little imagination I could do something similar.

It's an Ariens Professional 21, 4 stroke. Probably on par with the Toro commercial blowers... which are very popular with crews in my area.

I can't view the attachments. I am interested in seeing how your foldings panels work.

If I were just doing my driveway I would use my 30" Ariens walk behind. Walk behind blowers are very cost effective and efficient. A few years ago I added a small gas powered single stage blower to my fleet, and that thing is perfect for sidewalks, between cars, or really any small area.

Before I forget, I wouldn't recommend starting a tractor for "a few minutes" on any schedule. Start it when needed, and get it up to operating temperature. My rig usually has a 7' blade on the front and another on the back. The front blade has some side plates I made up for it that makes it a...

I checked out (2) how-to videos, and the OP had the correct positions for off and on. I think the only answer is that the valve is not totally closing off the fuel, allowing the engine to continue to run.

The heating oil filters are likely too low of a flow for use in transferring fuel. I use a sediment bowl filter with water block element, followed by a 2 micron particulate filter. Both are designed for fuel transfer flow rates at somewhere in the 10gpm range. A typical boiler oil filter is...

Sweet! That's a big generator!

If properly filtered and stored the #2 would have been fine in your machine. I got 250 gallons of heating oil about 15 years ago that I pumped out of a basement tank. I filtered it on the way out, stored in 55 gallon barrels, then filtered it again before going into my tractor and mower. In my...

That's a whole lot of loose hay! How does it get processed and used?

It does sound like a failed battery, but as Dodge Man suggests a load test is in order. For replacement, if the BCI size and CCA information is not printed on the battery you can measure what you have and reference a BCI table for something that will fit. Pay attention to the terminal...

Sounds like a well equipped, low hour machine! A starting point would be the original purchase price, and add on the extra features from there. Don't know the original price, but what would that be plus $2k ?

Apples and oranges, but I have to blow out my diesel zero turn sometimes several times a day to keep the temp in the normal range. Several times meaning over 8 hours of mowing, and there's not really a whole lot of debris needed to be reflected on the temperature gauge.

I don't use the plastic radiator drain petcocks on anything because of leaking or worse, breaking.

I guess they put that blanket spec because there are too many variables in what's being cut? You can always adjust your speed in higher grass, but honestly I don't think you'll have a problem cutting with a 72" finish mower under reasonable conditions. I used a 72" Befco RFM for years behind a...

For me the extended interval of the various ELC products far outweigh the additional expense. I personally use Zerex G05 HOAT, with a 5 year interval.

In the right type of vegetation the grill / screen / radiator can clog up in a matter of minutes. Comparing one tractor to the next is almost meaningless on different properties. If in that short period of time, you see chaff and debris sucked up onto the grill or radiator screen you're just...

Just for grins, I searched various maps describing the geographic regions of the US, and they were all over the page. My area (Maryland) is usually lumped in with Mid Atlantic, but also Northeast, and South. One map I looked at has Pennsylvania and New York as Mid Atlantic. That can't be right...

Good luck with the new machine! $5k is a great price with lots of room for repairs (hopefully minor).

I had something similar happen on my ZD1211 mower. Tightening the clamp worked for a little while, then I ended up applying a light coat of high temp silicone on the inside of the hose.

I was meeting a group of friends at the beach back in the early 80's, and arrived in jeans and work boots. Found them on the beach, and standing there chatting, a random girl rudely told me to move because I was blocking her sun... I was tired from the long drive, so I didn't respond and blew...

I have never had a diesel that required DEF, but a quick read shows it's BAD NEWS when mixed with diesel and run through an engine. I'm really surprised that it would be pumped through the same dispensing hose just requiring a push button selection. Definitely don't use the contaminated fuel in...

Easy to say, but if you've had fuel issues in the not too distant past, I would expect water and / or microbial issues to still be the cause of your symptoms. It may be time to "go big" on the fuel system. Drain, flush, clean, and inspect the tank. Drain and blow out all fuel lines, replace...

I track my F250 6.2L, and over 10 years my overall average is exactly 12 mpg. The trip meter is usually within 0.5 mpg between fill ups. Towing 8k and up I range from 8 to 9 mpg, and lighter towing around 10.

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My Carhartt jacket had served me will over the years, but it's getting a bit worn and stained. One of my plow customers called it "legit" and I think a beat up work Carhartt is now a fashion statement. Anyone looking for some really tough work pants, try the Carhartt Steel Cargo pants. Double...

Never thought of using a drill, I may have to try that. What I do is pound a 12" landscape spike into the ground and place the marker in the hole. Most of my winterizing tasks are much easier this year after building a small pole barn with pallet racks for implements. Plows, blower, and...

Block heaters on my last 2 tractors were 400 watts, but that still is a big ask for a solar system unless it's a large one. I run my block heater on a timer for 3-4 hours prior to expected use.

I would NOT drill it. You're practically guaranteed to get shavings in the coolant passages. The plug will eventually rotate... You couldn't push it through the holes unless you really tried.

Try pounding on the furthest from center to rotate the plug. The last freeze plug I removed I had to punch a hole near the edge, then pry it out.

If it has an electric lift pump, perhaps the wiring was damaged at the same time? My only other thought would be the valve on the separator.

My primary rig is a cabbed tractor with 7' front and rear blades, rear snow blower for large dumps. I have a Western plow for my F250 8' bed crew cab, but it's a royal pain plowing driveways with it.

Here's my burn starting off just yesterday. I generally push it in 2 or 3 times as it progresses.

I am not personally familiar with the BX machines, but transmissions without a dipstick should have a sight glass somewhere lower on the case to check the level. It's also possible (?) a previous owner replaced the OEM fill cap with something without an integral dipstick? There must be a way to...

Have you tried searching based on the engine? TractorData shows it has a Kohler 19.9hp 2 cylinder engine. I'm pretty confident it's a simple inline filter, with 1/4" ends. Could be wrong though.

Glad you weren't seriously injured. You don't necessarily need a winch. A ratcheting come-a-long will easily right that tractor. I think I would also secure the high side with a strap or two to ensure the tractor doesn't flop the other way while pulling it over. As BleedingOrange points out, DO...

I had an L3410 for many years, and the L10 series are a great machine. I wouldn't be overly concerned with those hours, and the price is in the ballpark. If I were making an offer, I would mention the hours, and offer $12k. I do believe it's worth the $13k though. Good luck!

For the majority of my career we used a similar numbering system, although the second engine at a station would have been E-292, and the tender would have been TW29 (Tank Wagon). About 5 years before retirement we switched over to a large area numbering convention to simplify mutual aid. Each...

I just use diesel and a 15 minute road flare. Just chuck the flare in when the fire is rolling good.

I prefer 3 point finish mowers for their ease of hooking up, and for many years I used them to back over my stream bank. The Befco 84" mower I've had for 20 years has served me well, only needing the gearbox seal replaced once.

This thread is EXACTLY like the flat earth thread.

Great pictures! Every kid needs to grow up with a dog. So many life lessons can be learned from having a dog.

Haha. Entertaining and educational. I've seen some of his videos in the past.

I did the exact same thing to my drawbar, but only damaged the plastic pto guard. Easy mistake to make.

Scam-detector.com gives it a 15.5% (lower = more possibility of scam). Scam sites frequently slightly alter legit domain names, ie: adding the "s".

I really doubt there is an anti microbial added to the stations fuel supply, but it's possible. In the finger lakes region I would definitely ensure that your fuel is winterized, which it SHOULD be at the pump after a certain date based on location. I winterize my fuel regardless of the supply...

So true. Even after 28 years of plowing my gently curving 600' driveway I struggle to stay on it without stakes. To be responsible for turf damage I require my customer's driveways to be staked, but they rarely stake them. I take photos while driving up the driveways in my tractor before winter...

I think people buy the CT solely to look, and be different... Much like coloring their hair purple.

Congrats on the new machine. I have its little brother the L4060, and really like it. Staying warm and dry in the winter for the past 9 years has been a godsend in my older years.

I need to get one of those! I've had a need on a few occasions to lift some heavy stuff with pallet forks, but limited by the fel capacity. It would also be convenient to have other ssqa implements on the rear at times.

I have only gotten an answer from one supplier (current) about treated fuel. EVERY regular fuel station (chains) I've asked were not able or willing to tell me when, or if, their fuel was treated. I switched to a dedicated petroleum supplier a few years ago and I should have much sooner...

I use Power Service White and Silver that is left over from the previous season. I've never needed to go beyond that timeframe.

It appears to me that cable #10 sets the cruise control and cable #90 is the brake release. The notched bracket holds the setting, don't know why it's not labeled.

I've done a bunch of neighbor gratis work since my last post, mostly small and quick tractor work. Taking downed trees, branches, and brush to my large burn pile, light grading, moving and placing a used basketball pole (concrete base and all), etc. Where I draw the line is large or otherwise...

On my ZD326 I was having constant starter issues. What I learned was that the starter solenoid was the culprit, even after installing a starter relay to get full battery voltage to the solenoid. The final solution (no problems since) was installing a heat shield over the starter to keep the...

I think the best solution for a bucket on gravel is the use of bolt on skids. I have (2) Edge Tamers from R2 manufacturing that are perfect in gravel or grass.

I got an answer from my off road supplier here in Maryland, and they add cetane improver and anti gel additives on the second Monday of November. That is 11/10 this year. In Vermont I would imagine fuel is treated earlier That said, I still begin treating my fuel with an anti gel additive...

X2 on what Harry and Topzide are saying. Sure sounds like a belt routing problem, but post the make and model, as well as some photos of the belt routing. Your manual may address the correct routing.

I raise the blower just a few inches when not actually blowing snow to keep the pto shaft more level. I cringe when I see people raising a blower to full height, usually creating a severe angle on the u joints. It's just unecessary wear and tear.

Mine was stored in a garage for its first 8 years, and the last 2 in a pole barn with concrete floor. My last 2 tractors got all exposed steel clear coated when new, and they didn't rust at all.

I thought I would use the cruise control on my last 2 tractors... But no. First one (coincidentally an L3410) was manual and I never used it. My current L4060 has electronic cruise control, and I thought I would use it.... But no.

It's the cruise control.

Any ssqa pallet forks that I've seen either lock in place, or are hydraulically adjusted. Dedicated pallet forks are going to be much more stable and secure than clamp on forks.

Above spam (that is no longer there) reported.

I've seen similar batteries that vent on the top edge of the case inline with the caps. I'm sure they vent somewhere, perhaps valve regulated? I do know that I have had exceptional service from Kubota batteries, usually in the 10+ year range.

Cell levels will vary with use and charge percentage. Make sure the plates are at least covered, then fully charge the batteries. Add distilled water to the bottom of the well tube (for lack of a better term). There's usually a slot in the vertical well tube, and water slightly into the well...

Her address was Honeoye, right off the main drag. The organic farm is off the west shore of Canandaigua Lake, about in the middle north / south.

I have experimented with various heaters for my hst oil over the years. (2) 250w magnetic heaters do ok on 11 gallons, but need to be on all night to see much of a difference. The easiest and most effective solution for me was a 1500w radiant heating dish, but I was always nervous about its...

That is a very nice area! My daughter lived briefly on the northern tip of Honeoye lake while she did a stint at the Wegman's organic farm. She learned to run a skid steer there, and was "expert level" on that machine.

I suspect the flashers will work ok. Not counting the led headlight conversion I shaved off 11 amps of load using led bulbs in my running lights and flashers. With incandescent lighting, added front and rear led cab lights, and cab window defrosters I was way too close to the alternator's capacity.

Not in a BX, but my L4060 led conversion did not require anything additional. I have no doubt requiring a resistor is a thing in some cases, but across (3) tractors, and (4) road vehicles I've never needed anything additional.

Uhmm. I don't have a BaumaLight, but my Winco volt meter stays consistent under no load, or a consistent load. You may want to get one of those plug in watt meters that also measure frequency. I use a Kill A Watt meter and set the generator to 60hz.

Those are capped discharge ports on the other side of the engine. To pump water off of the tank, you will need to open the tank to pump valve (green arrow) and open the discharge valve of your choice. Uncap the discharge obviously, and be aware that when throttled up a significant and...

I give mine an occasional wash and wax, but always in the spring to clean off all the road salt.

I retired 12 years ago, and am now 63. I was never much of a traveling type, and preferred to stay close to home. What I do find as I get older, is that I am much more patient in general.

I would be happy to help out with any questions you may have. To start off, do NOT run the pump for an extended period without water actually flowing (either out of a discharge, or recirculating to the tank). It will burn up the pump. That is a sweet looking engine!

That's enough difference to notice a steering issue, what are the pressures using a right and left description?

I ordered one of these tools when I saw the topic last year. Great little tool for the money, and it works very well.

There is certainly something to be said for living within one's means. My eye opening realization was in my first year of working my career job. I got a 7-11 coffee on the way to work, and lunch at Roy Rogers every day. In 1983 dollars I was spending $2300 yearly (13% of my yearly salary).

Yours plugs directly into an existing remote just as an implement hose would? I have hesitated in getting a similar device because I don't want the hassle of removing a set of remotes and plumbing and mounting the manual splitter. Do you have a photo or a link to what you have?

99% of the time the neighborly approaches mentioned work out just fine. I mow 30-some acres of rural residential lawns and as a rule do not trim anything on the other side of a fence line. Brush on the other side just gets cut flush to the line. On my own property I access and trim both sides...

@Topzide describes the law of the land in my state, and I assume it's similar in most others. Trim what you want on your side of the fence and deal with the material.

Didn't pan out for this particular excavator, but doing a reverse image search is usually very revealing of a scam. The below result shows the same excavator (based on boulder in photo), one from a known reputable dealer and the other being sold for $13k.

Without a doubt a scam.

I know they make other quality accessories. I have a brush guard from them, and it is very well built and a perfect fit with stainless hardware. I suspect they manufacture the rops bracket and outsource the multiplier.

There certainly are some clever machines for very specific jobs. My neighbor has a hand roller for picking up walnuts, but he only has one tree to pick up. It's a small football shaped basket, that rolls around picking them up.

I hear ya. I still have a 25 year old bull float that has been used exactly once.

Don't know about ArmorAll, but ProtectAll does provide UV protection to rubber and plastics. I use it on practically all non cloth surfaces.

I used an Ideal Tire Groover with the #4 blade. It cuts a "U" shaped groove, and the depth is adjustable.

X2 on the hardener, it does make a difference!

Funny and true! I used to keep on old circular magnet from the HST filter on the cover to hold on to lynch pins.

It's partially cut off in the picture, but mine is a ditch bank flail that moves out 5' beyond the rear tire width, and rotates up 90 degrees or down 45 degrees. It's a lot of weight hanging out to the side. I use it primarily to mow stream banks and it sure beats using a string trimmer like I...

62" working width. It's about all my 6400 lb tractor can handle when offset, and weighs about 700lbs.

I run a straight plow on my 2011 F250, and it suits my needs. I bought the truck with the plow very slightly used back in 2013. I think if I were to specifically shop for a plow it would be a V plow though. The V plows will give you more options in larger snows, and scooping windows etc. I will...

I have grooved my last 2 R4 equipped tractors, and just recently regrooved the well worn fronts to get another few years out of them. I notice a significant improvement with the grooves. I should have done two grooves on the rears, but only did one down the middle of the tread.

I can see those working well and being convenient to use. I get by with regular pallet forks, and after training my neighbors on how to layout brush piles they work well enough for my use.

Google image. There are several near exact hits on tractor auction and sale sites.

Do a reverse image search... It's manufactured by Minneapolis Moline.

I use Battery Minders for golf cart batteries (48v), tractor, mowers, and vehicles. I have an 8 amp Battery Minder for quicker charging, and multiple 2 amp maintainers. They are a little pricey, particularly for the 12v 8 amp and 48v 3 amp chargers.

After putting in 1100' of split rail, try drilling the auger a few inches deeper than required, then push soil back in and tamp with a marked 2x4 to get the exact depth. Any time a clamshell digger can remain leaning on a tree is a win! Also... I skimmed the thread and saw mention of a pole...

High lift blades do better with pine needles than standard mulching blades. I use Gator mulching blades that have some lift, and they generally handle pine needles that are dry.

My tractor has a dipstick, so I don't need to dye mine. I've read here on TBN that John Deere sells a dye specifically for hydraulic systems.

No help with mfg / model, although some older tractors have the glow position opposite the run and start direction (CCW). There also could be a spring loaded position right before the start position, usually without a physical indicator.

In my younger years I wore Redwing legacy boots (Pecos) and didn't really have much need for additional waterproofing. The leather thickness and welt type was adequate, so I just used Neatsfoot oil on them. I never had much luck with the non legacy Redwing boots, particularly any with a glued...

This site is the best forum I have ever been a member of. Likely a combination reasonable moderation, polite and civilized members (generally), and a common theme of tractors and related rural life.

I rarely post a new topic, but since boot care is likely of interest to many TBN folks, here we go... I've always worn boots pretty much 365 days a year, and the hands down best waterproofing and maintenance product I've used is Obenauf's LP Heavy Duty. It's a combination of beeswax and leather...

I cut down a 7' rake years ago to 6'. Not sure how you would widen one without a donor, but I'm sure it's possible. I still had about 6" of rake past the gauge wheels, so they were a foot in on a seven foot rake. I doubt it makes much, if any difference.

I definitely agree with the wicking material. Even on the rare occasion I have to dress up, there is a white Hanes Cool Dri underneath! The rest of the time it's either lime green, orange, or gray Cool Dri's

I vote for TBN shirts / hats!

My hammer flail works about the same. I have yet to mow something that didn't get clean cut and finely mulched. Other than price, it's hard to beat a flail mower for the finished cut and mulching.

It looks will cared for with those hours! With 3000 hours, that's a good reminder to me that these machines can last a long time. I traded my previous tractor at 1300 hours, and have similar hours on the replacement. I find myself thinking about a new tractor, but I'm sure my current machine...

That appears to be a hydraulic oil, not suitable for use in transmission / hydraulic applications like your tractor.

True. My Del Morino doesn't even specify what to adjust the belt tension to. I made an educated guess to adjust the deflection to 1cm midway between the pulleys with moderate thumb pressure. After maybe 100 hours the belts look great, so hopefully I'm in the ballpark!

Creating a more cost effective product is one thing, duplicating someone else's idea and design is another matter entirely. From the consumer's perspective, it's a little more complicated. Many are driven solely by price, while others may not even realize they're purchasing a knock off product...

That's not at all like I imagined from the description. That amount of movement is typical of any snowblower I have used over the years. I wouldn't worry about it.

I suspect the blower will settle down while blowing snow, but your description sounds more on the severe side. My blower will shake slightly when raised or when first powered up, but it doesn't shake the tractor to any noticable extent. I think you should have the selling dealer look at it.

I've felled a few trees in my day, but problem trees and non standard cuts are outta my league. Always a good idea to have another (or expert) opinion when in doubt.

That looks pretty light, so practically any type of cutting implement would get the job done. After having used a flail mower for the last 2 years, I would definitely recommend the same for your application.

That's a lot of hours! Are you certain AW32 hydraulic oil is the correct fluid? Most tractors use a universal transmission / hydraulic fluid.

I have used both. The spin on water block canister from goldenrod is 10u, but they are more expensive than the cartridge water block filter in the bowl. I personally like to see what's coming out of the tank into the sediment bowl filter. Either filter will lockup solid with a big slug of water...

Sounds like it could either fuel delivery or an intermittent safety switch. Try breaking the fuel line before the first fuel filter and confirm flow. Then proceed to check the flow after the first fuel filter, and before and after the secondary filter. If there's good flow through the system, I...

There’s nothing up there under the headliner, or any options that I’m aware of. I’m sure it’s there to provide rigidity like Fallon says.

That was pretty common in my area 20-30 years ago. It was always a guy in aviator style sunglasses. I guess the value in your current sales person is the image being printed (presumably larger than a typical laser printer can print) and framed. I spend a fair amount of time on Google Earth...

How exactly is the tractor shutting down? Immediate, like turning the key off, or more slowly losing rpm's first?

I use a goldenrod water separating bowl filter with a 17u filter first in line so I can see any contamination, followed by a 2u final filter.

I prefer posters give manufacturer and model, but the topic is frequently in the particular manufacturer sub forum, or specified in the op's about page.

That looks to me as though something was damaged in the past, and cobbled back together. I would replace the shaft cover to keep it from twisting up brush / grass / or other debris.

They seem to have an impressive list of available comfort and performance options! Getting older, the heated air ride seat would be sweet.

That site is without a doubt a scam.

A picture may help.

Congrats on the new to you mower! That's a quality machine well worth repairing, having many hours of life left. IMHO, the grass catcher adds limited resale value, so if it doesn't meet your needs, you could always just scrap it.

I think I would bite the bullet and take them to a shop with a press to straighten them out, and maybe reinstall on the inside with a 1/2" steel plate spacer.

Best guess, either a defective safety switch is shutting down the machine, or the fuel solenoid is not working properly (in order of probability).

My father had a 1970 Power King that he used for everything... Mowing, plowing the garden, snow plowing, spraying, planting, and I'm sure some other stuff I'm forgetting. My job was mowing 2 acres, and it would mow down a corn field... but it was terribly uncomfortable as a mower. Unfortunately...

How exactly is the engine shutting down? Immediately, decreasing rpm's, slowly over a few seconds?

Glad you found it before it burnt to the axles!

BXpanded makes a nice bar called Piranha. Measure your bucket, they'll ship to your door.

You can't beat a can if there's room for it !!! I keep one in my house and garage, but not on the tractor.

I carry a 5 lb abc extinguisher in my cab, I think it's a 3a 40bc. It was around $50 when I bought it, but prices are all over the page. Never needed one on my tractor, but I prefer being prepared. From previous experiences with firefighting, they are fine for putting out small fires if caught...

If memory serves, removing the hydraulic suction filter will drain the majority of the sump. Removing the transmission filter will drain a quart or so max.

My last 2 tractors and truck were a simple swap to the led equivalent base. The exception was the headlights on the tractor, where it was a little difficult to confirm the base type. I ended up comparing pictures and measuring the height of the replacement headlights. The led headlights I...

At the risk of repeating some areas to look at : - wheel lug nuts, check again after 10 hours or so - SAA for frontend loader and mount - grease all points. Check the manual and get them ALL - Check all fluids - Check tire pressures - Check all hydraulics hose connections for tightness / leaks

Compared to a pto auger, my hydraulic ssqa auger spins slow at around 100 rpm. It took a while to get used to the speed difference. That video looked painfully slow, but it got the job done.

Hopefully that's still leftover from being outside on the dealer's lot. I would address the strong potential of water still being in the tank. If there's a low point drain, you could drain off any water, or if not convenient you could put a water absorbing snake in the tank for a few weeks. Your...

I live on 6 acres, and mow 36 acres weekly as a retirement gig. My fuel setup consists of a 108 gallon pallet mounted tank with 15gpm 12v pump, 17u separator and 2u final filters. I load it up in my truck once every few months and fill with ORD. I also keep a 55 gallon drum of diesel stored in a...

In my previous life I was required to stop at all railroad crossings regardless of control signals being present. I still stop in my personal vehicles, and it never ceases to amaze me how this simple precaution infuriates other drivers. Roading my tractor is not my favorite activity.

According to another thread here on TBN, it's a restricted air filter light.

Sounds like a short somewhere, AND resistance in a high current cable such as battery / starter / ground.

One advantage with FB Marketplace is that you can partially vette potential buyers prior to even dealing with them. Surprising how many scammers will just use a practically blank account to conduct their "business". I generally specify in the ad "no low ballers", "price not negotiable", and "if...

That's an interesting thought, but my L4060 doesn't sound like that during a Regen. Could still be related to the dpf though.

I'm not a logger by any means, but I do know saws get heavy with longer bars. My 20" is about all I want to use for any length of time now that I'm getting older. I prefer the 20" bars from a previous life

Sure sounds like exhaust, rather than a mechanical noise to me. Hopefully it will get straightened out with the dealer quickly.

I stored my previous tractor in a 40' shipping container for many years. At the time it was $2000 for a one trip, weatherproof box. It worked very well, and was lockable. I have since built a small pole barn (32x32ish) and the barn is way more convenient.

I don't know about a fake post, but I do think your quoting doesn't make any sense, and it's confusing at best.

I don't know about the ZD21 machines, but my ZD326 and previous ZD331 both had starter solenoid issues on a frequent basis. Rather than always replacing the solenoids (aftermarket about $20), I installed heat shields and solenoid relays and haven't had a problem since. I think the starter and...

Opinions and markets vary, but with a loader I would estimate its value at around $20k. $17k without the loader. Low hour pre emissions tractors are getting harder to find.

I've had such good luck plugging tires I keep a kit and small compressor in all of my road vehicles.

4000 hours is a fair amount of hours for the average owner here on TBN. My 10 year old L4060 only has around 1200 hours, but the plan is for this to last many more years.

I use wool socks on my ZD mower armrests, and they look surprisingly good (and comfy).

With no API standards, and only relying on a manufacturer's statement of compatibility, I would stick with OEM fluids for the transmission / hydraulics.

KubotaBooks has that loader manual, and lists the bucket weight at 123 lbs and lift capacity at 400 lbs (presumably full height at pins). 277 remaining lift capacity full height at pins. That appears to equate to about 1/2 a bucket full of average dirt estimated at 100 lbs per cubic foot.

Since you've cleaned all of the high amp connections, consider replacing the cables themselves. They have been known to corrode on the inside, which would account for your symptoms. The actual battery cables are the most susceptible.

The OP basically dumped 10 gallons of Walmart hydraulic oil into his expensive ag machinery, showed some vague pictures of almost certainly water contaminated oil, and quoted some partially correct information about the 303 oil debacle of about a decade ago. I believe he is going to have Walmart...

I don't do that, mostly because my degreasing is done on a frequent basis before it gets too bad. I'm sure it works better on a warmed (never hot!) engine.

For the op's stated concerns, the choice is HST.