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Another vote for rebuilding. One of the nice things about the N Fords is that many components were engineered to be rebuilt multiple times. When you reinstall it, get new bumpers and a new Brillo pad for the area between the radiator and hood, and you will be good to go for a long time.

This is my '73 3000 for comparison.

Yep, I would not recommend Leyland Cypress. There are at least two blights that attack them, and there is no cure for them. I planted over a dozen more than a decade ago. Only have five left, and two of them are dying. I am in central Virginia.

The 3000 is a great small utility tractor. Practically a bullet-proof engine. You can download a free owner's manual here: https://www.ntractorclub.com/manuals/tractors/Operators Manual All Purpose and LCG Tractors 2000,3000,4000,and 5000.pdf Basic info on features and specs here...

Not to mention not being able to stop the tractor from going in the pond, your wife's flower garden, etc., as the centrifugal force of the bush hog blade being transferred forward to the transmission continues to drive the tractor forward, even with one standing on the clutch, cussing, praying, etc.

Those side brackets are not intended to hold an implement at a certain height. They are called drawbar stays and are there to be used with a cross drawbar to keep it from rising up. You can use limiter chains to keep your mowers, or any other equipment, at a set height. They also allow you to...

Are you aware that the 9N does not have position control like your 8N?

Here's a link to a digital copy of an original sales brochure for the SOS: Manuals Forum - Expanded Thread Page

I generally will not offer more than $500 for a non-runner. Since this is family, you may want to up it some. Parts for everything but the SOS tranny will be easy to get. Ford offered that 134ci OHV engine from '53 through '64. If the SOS needs parts, you will have to hunt for them, I...

The parts manual shows only the washer behind the axle nut:

Here's a free service manual that you can download: https://www.ntractorclub.com/manuals/service-troubleshooting/I&T FO-19 Shop Service Manual for Model NAA.pdf Owner's manual is here: https://www.ntractorclub.com/manuals/tractors/Ford%20Tractor%20Owner's%20Manual,%20Model%20NAA.pdf The...

It sounds like float to me. That is the first thing I would check. Do you have an owner's manual? It has instructions on setting float height and adjusting the governor rods. I can post the info here if you do not have one.

The original idea for the Funk conversions was to allow the Ford 8N to compete with the big tractor boys in the large, mid-west farms and be able to pull a 3-bottom plow. The early ones used a 6-cylinder engine but later included the flathead 8's. That stimulated creativity and now folks have...

Agreed! Mowing this with a 33hp engine and 6' LandPride bush hog can bog her down at times. If I mow monthly, it's not much of a challenge.

It looks like you have your answer, but for future reference, here is parts info on the MS428:

You can buy a new Proofmeter for around $33. You can either cut the hole in your current dash panel or find one from a '50-528N. If you don't have the drive cable between the governor and Proofmeter, then you'll need to buy that, too (about another $33). The one advantage over a typical tach...

The '48 8N did not come from the factory with the Proofmeter, so you would not install one if you want to restore it to the correct factory standards. The Proofmeter was introduced in 1950 at serial number 290271.

YouTube has a few video how-to's that may help: https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=Ford+3000+transmission+repair

Marvin is not only a straight-up engineering genius; he is also an old-school gentleman. Great to talk with and deal with. For samples of his work, click here: Marvin Baumann Antique Tractors

That's a picture of Marvin Baumann's Four-Trans 8N. Slowest tractor in the world.

There was a dual-fuel version of the '48-52 Ford 8N called the 8NAN. Here are a couple of pics of a restored model showing the dual fuel tanks and the two-valve sediment bowl to select which fuel you wanted:

Merry Christmas!!!

One possibility: SHOCK ABSORBER C5NN3A540B - New.Holland | AVSpare.com According to the Messick's website, the part is discontinued so you may have to find a used one and rebuild it if necessary.

The front-mount coils are problematic, especially the new ones from the "land of almost right." Napa sells one that is a little better quality. If you have not been feeding the right voltage to the coil, you can easily toast it, so replacing may be your best option at this point. For your...

I think you would need to replace your generator if you upgrade to a voltage regulator:

Do you have the front-mount distributor with the coil on top of it? You said you replaced the resistor. The one that attaches to the back of the dash panel? Where did you measure the 1-volt? On the other side of the new resistor or at the coil? The 8N has three circuits: starting...

You can get something like this from an Agri Supply: https://www.agrisupply.com/3-point-tractor-rear-hitch/p/101596/ and this: https://www.agrisupply.com/hitch-mount-tri-ball-chrome/p/40278/ and have a lot of towing options.

I use 50/50 green stuff in my 1533.

I can put you onto a manual for a 35 but I do not know how similar it might be to your 40.

I think that it should fit. It's a Series 725 loader. This is from the Assembly Manual. I have digital copies of this manual plus the owner's manual for it. Message me your email address and I will send you both.

I am not using these because I have an 8N. But, the founder and his son are friends of mine and I have done a ton of business with them over the past 30 years. They do restorations and refurbishments and use the parts they sell. I would encourage you to call on Monday (feel free to drop my...

https://www.just8ns.com/NCA3105B-Years-1955-64-Spindle-Assembly-Right-Hand https://www.just8ns.com/NCA3106B-Years-1955-64-Spindle-Assembly-Left-Hand

You can get ramps for low-clearance cars. I've had a set for years for my Corvette. Mine are in two sections for each side that can be disconnected for storage between uses. The lift is gradual so you can drive up on them without ripping up spoilers, etc.

Assuming that your fuel valve is open at the sediment bowl, you should get a steady stream from the fuel bowl drain at ALL times. You either have a fuel line blockage or your float is sticking in the fuel bowl. Also, there is no way that your main jet screw should be out five turns. The spec...

What is your definition of "good flow?" When you say "plug" are you talking about the bolt in the bottom of the fuel bowl in your carb?

Do you have the tractor end of your top link in the bottom hole?

If you want remote control hydraulics on your 640, you don't mess with the factory pump, but install an accessory manifold and control valve on the top cover by the seat:

On my 1533, you turn the ignition key enough to light the dash lights but not enough to start, and then just a little more, but not enough to start, and that sends current to the glow plugs and a yellow light comes on in the dash cluster. After the first turn of the key: After turning just a...

When the 8N came out, Ford replaced the cutout relay with a voltage regulator. You may want to consider taking it back to factory spec.

That process does not work for the Ford front-mount distributor. You have to static-time them and you can do this with the distributor off the engine and on your work bench. You can get a tool to help with this on eBay: Locking & Align Tool for Timing Front Mount 8N, 9N/2N Ford Tractor...

Do you remove the distributor to tune or maintain it?

Attach your voltmeter to your battery terminals. With the engine off, it should show around 6.2 volts. With the engine running, it should show a reading of around 7.2 or a little more. If your battery has a bad cell, it is likely that your 8N would not even start. But, you can load test it...

Yes, you would only need the extra resistor if you converted to 12v and kept your 6v coil installed. It would not be in your cutout, only the wire to your coil. Your cutout is irrelevant here. It is part of your charging circuit and your problem is in your ignition circuit. If your battery...

Do you have another resistor (maybe white, ceramic, rectangle in shape) in the coil wire from your ballast resistor attached to your dash panel to your coil?

Your symptoms would typically indicate a bad coil. I have a TSC near me but I buy my ignition parts from my local Napa auto parts place and have had good luck with them. Does your wiring look like this:

What are you reading with the engine running?

If you are seeing 6.2v when running then the genny is NOT working as it should. You should be seeing more like 7.3. When you installed the new genny and cutout, did you polarize the charging system?

Need more info and a photo or two would help us help you. How many, and what type lights do you have installed? One tail light and one work light, two tail lights, ????

Do you have the 1525 loader?

I get my replacement hydraulic hoses from my local Napa dealer. Better quality than the factory hoses, less expensive than my Agco dealer wants for the lower quality stuff and they make them up while I wait.

I do not know for sure, but I think you should be seeing closer to 2,000 psi on your pressure test. This service manual is from 1964 and may not be 100% relevant, but I'll offer it in case it can provide some answers to you until someone more experienced can respond...

I installed mine dry. This chart will show the torque setting and tightening sequence to use. After you put some hours on the engine, go back and check the setting for each head bolt

https://www.chewy.com/kong-classic-dog-toy/dp/38485?utm_id=401602547&msclkid=d9867f7640371f6d7fe7192dee925dd9&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=Shopping_NC_Dog_HG_Toys&utm_term=4584688618114141&utm_content=Dog Toys

https://www.chewy.com/kong-classic-dog-toy/dp/38485?utm_id=401602547&msclkid=d9867f7640371f6d7fe7192dee925dd9&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=Shopping_NC_Dog_HG_Toys&utm_term=4584688618114141&utm_content=Dog Toys

Your '48 8N came from the factory with a ballast resistor on the back of the dash panel like in the photo. It allows full current at startup and as it gets warm it increases the resistance to extend the life of your coil. The resistors you are talking about are probably little white rectangles...

You don't have the factory ballast resistor attached to the back side of your dash panel?

If you let the engine completely cool down, will it start and run properly until it gets hot again?

I got mine from my local Agco dealer. I had to measure the internal width of the bucket because it bolts to each side of the bucket and then drill the holes for those two bolts when I brought it home.

I am also only familiar with a 3-wire voltage regulator on 8Ns. Perhaps the 4th wire grounds it? That said, you really need to know which terminal is which because you can immediately ruin the regulator if you touch a jumper wire to the wrong terminal. You usually take a short wire and just...

You can still find them. I just sold mine. If you had the front piece, you can lift all four wheels at one time.

You can make sweeping turns with ground-engaging implements, but sharp turns with the implement in the ground will break things on Ford Ns. Ford beefed up the upper lift arms with my model but I still lift plows, cultivators and disc harrows when making turns.

I have the invoice for my '52. You can see what an 8N, 2-14 plow, rigid shank cultivator, and tandem disc harrow cost in '52.

Nice to see that ole Dearborn Economy plow at work. It's great that you have the full history on your 8N. Best of luck with it!

I'm not familiar with the term "third function" but, when I bought my MF-1533 new in 2006 I had the dealer install remote hydraulics so that I could operate my hydraulic toplink. Hope this helps some.

As John suggested, start with the top cover and check the piston. The factory piston had 3 steel rings. Rather than a ring job on it, I would replace it with a piston from the '53-54 NAA with an o-ring and leather backup washer. It will seal better. Also take a hard look at the cam follower...

Sure it is. 8N hydraulics, when working properly, can lift ~800 pounds and it will lift all three implements you listed above. Parts are easy to get and how-to information is available at some websites and on YouTube.

Are you still 6-volt?

Yep. You can learn all you want to know from this compilation of photos and restoration info in this document: https://www.ntractorclub.com/manuals/tractors/An Introduction to the Ford Tractor 2N Warhorse, v06-09-16.pdf

You have a 1944 2N. Looks like it may have a Sherman auxiliary transmission, too.

The 960 44043 is what is throwing me. The 960 would indicate that the motor came from an earlier Ford. This is what a model and serial # would look like on a 4000:

4-speed or 5-speed? Live PTO via a two-stage clutch? Pictures would help us help you.

This wiring diagram will also show you the firing order:

In addition to the ballast resistor? If so, this is probably your problem. An additional inline resistor to the coil is only needed when you have converted to 12v but retained the 6v coil.

This wiring diagram may be of help to you:

Is it backfiring through the carb or the exhaust?

Did you do a dry then wet test when getting those results?

Make sure that the lift lever is all the way down and then push down on the lift arms with your hands. Can you post a photo of the two levers?

As you have seen, it can be done, but Ford Tractor recommended you not do it. That's because, in gaining the experience mentioned above, you may lock the transmission in two gears or break something expensive. This is straight from the owner's manual: You can download a free owner's manual...

Nice Ford!!! I love the 3000. Hard to find a better vintage utility tractor that can still be used every day for the money you spend on one.

Angela sent me this pic:

Thank you! What would the lever be used for?

I am helping a friend dispose of her deceased father's garden and farming equipment. She is going through his stuff and trying to decide on what to keep, what to throw out and what can be useful to someone else to sell. Can anyone help ID this part and whether it comes from a lawn tractor...

I wait until I see a hose starting to leak before I replace it. I've had my MF1533 for about 17 years and have replaced a few of the loader hoses. I have them made for me at my local Napa dealer. The owners are also farmers and tractor owners. The replacement hoses that they make while I...

A friend of mine in Indiana is downsizing and relocating. He has the following parts listed in the Cincinnati Craigslist: Ford 1 3/8” PTO pulley. $200. Several 1 1/8” PTO pulleys, with/without buzz saw bracket and/or adapter extension. $50-$75. Ford dual wheel spacers with adapters. Fits...

A home-made rig that seems to work for Scott:

Also not AI:

Not AI:

This document may be of some help in this:

Just FYI - if you don't operate your 8N in dusty conditions, you don't have to use the dust cover. It wasn't even offered until late 1951 when the '52 models were probably out. It's recommended but thousands of 8N's were operated without them.

If you still have the factory M-S carb, I would use that every day, all day over one of the Chinese jobs. They are a crap shoot - some are ok, some suck out of the box. The M-S carb was engineered to be rebuilt over and over. Actually, many of the parts on the N's were engineered that way...

I would recommend doing the fuel drain test to fully eliminate fuel as your problem. Fuel flow can be impacted by the gas tank vent hole getting plugged (loosen your gas cap to eliminate this as a cause). If your float is sticking, that will also affect fuel flow. Did you replace the carb...

You said you "got gas" - how do you know it is enough and continuous? The way I test this is to take a pint jar, remove the drain bolt from the carb fuel bowl and you should fill the pint jar in about 2 minutes or less. If you can't fill it in that time, then you have a blockage. I'm...

A direct answer to your question: 8N12127B-8N12127B Years:1950-52 Distributor Assembly (Angle https://www.just8ns.com/NCA12106A-Years-1950-64-Distributor-Cap-For-Angle-Drive-Dist https://www.just8ns.com/C0NN12200-Years-1950-64-Rotor-Assembly-Distributor Make sure you have one of these...

Go big or go home, baby!!

Did you check all three filter screens in the fuel line to ensure there is no blockage?

Interesting implement. Here's one on an 8N:

Here are some plans that will work: https://www.ntractorclub.com/howtos/pdfs/3-Point-Lifting-Boom-How-to-Build-Your-Own.pdf

Yes, pretty much the same engine with a differently jetted carb that gives a little more power but also uses more gas. Has the same engine as your Jube, too.

I have a 1533 so don't know if it will apply, but I'll take a shot. To engage the PTO on my 1533 I have to engage the lever on my left near the gear shifter and then engage the electric switch on the dash. Hope this helps............Ed

You can get a replacement part here: 8N3105B-8N3105B Years:1948-54 Spindle Assembly (Front Axle)-

There is also a manual for the WM-4 in that same library. https://www.ntractorclub.com/manuals/implements/loaders/Wagner%20WM-4%20Loader%20Installation%20and%20Operation%20Instructions.pdf

Are you connecting a rotary cutter (bush hog) or a finish mower to your 8N?

You and me, both, John. Love the Powermasters. It was the first Ford from that era that made a great loader tractor, in my opinion. Hard to find a better, all-around small acreage farming and utility tractor.

Some info on your loader:

I would consider it vintage and yours looks like it's been restored or well cared for. Data on it here: TractorData.com Ford 4500 industrial tractor information

You only filled tubed tires with CaCL, never a tubeless tire. You still have to monitor it around the valve stem - that's where you will typically find a small leak and if you do, you have to deal with it immediately.

I use a 6' Landpride rotary cutter behind my 33hp diesel MF 1533. It's 20 years old so has a heavier frame than its successors being sold today. I can mow 7 acres of this stuff in about 4 hours IF it is fairly dry. If it is wet and lush, then add at least another 2 hours because I have to...

I don't use my '52 8N much anymore so I always keep the clutch pedal blocked. I've read many reports over the years on Ford forums where many folks have come asking how to deal with a frozen clutch. I figure better safe than sorry.

Just in time for Halloween:

A buddy of mine painted this Cub for his daughter:

Pink works for some operators (not my tractor here, though):

Thank you for sharing this. I hope I don't need it but it's nice to know that it's here if I do. I love Floyd. My mother's family is from Woolwine.

My MF1533 has two removable screens, one in front of the transmission cooler and the other in front of the radiator. I don't know if this applies to your model but you may want to check. It's still necessary to hose off the radiator fins occasionally, also.

The cab and especially the A/C are super nice in Virginia summers.

I don't use my '52 8N much any longer but I just cannot get rid of her. I'm getting ready to put new seals and brakes in her after doing that in 1995 when I bought her from the original purchaser. He replaced two plow horses with her and farmed 77 acres of corn, soybean, and hay from '52 until...

I am posting this for a friend in Wyoming and am not associated with the sale. Rick is selling a rare Selec-Trol hydraulic valve for use on Ford Jubilee or NAA tractors (1953-54). The valve diverts hydraulic pressure from the tractor to activate a remote (external) hydraulic cylinder, mounted...

Are you in the UK? Would you mind posting a photo of your 4000?

Well, if it hasn't been cleaned in 72 years you are in for one nasty job, one that you won't want to do again but will never have to in your lifetime. Get some rags that you can toss out when done, something to scrape with (I've used plastic Bondo spreaders and gasket scrapers), and your...

Working a 1/2-acre garden is babying an 8N. I bought my '52 from the original buyer. He farmed 77 acres of corn, soybean, and hay with it from '52 until I bought it in '95. He took great care of it and it was not beaten down any when I got it from him. He could no longer get up on it so he...

Napa sells a 3,000psi gauge but you'll have to adapt the stem to fit the test port. I made my own with a 3' hose because I'm 6'-6" and prefer to stand next to the lift lever when I use it, rather than be down on my knees.

Your pump is worn as most N pumps get. As long as it is working, leave it alone. The scotch yokes have a bit of play. If it is raising/lowering properly and holding for a couple of days, I would ignore it and continue to use it until it starts not operating properly. Parts are available to...

Are you keeping some type of ballast on the 3-point hitch for counterweighting? Putting a lot of weight that far out in front of your tractor will cause you to lose traction at the least. Loaded rear tires will help with the traction but you'll also need something hanging out from the rear to...

Well, the owner's manual will tell you to NOT do it. But, you will always hear from folks who say they can and do do it. If you mess up, it could be an expensive mistake.

Did you try the 4x4 pattern that I posted above just in case it is?

Do you have a dog leg shifter on the left side of the tractor that you change ranges with?

Yep, I don't think parts have been available for many years so you have to cannibalize one to fix another. I knew a guy in CO who had the Howard in his NAA so safe to assume it might also fit the Hundred Series and maybe early 2000 (4-cyl) Fords.

Restoration guys seek them mainly. Customizers also will use them to make "crawler" tractors for competition. Here is a photo of the famous "Fourtrans" Ford 8N done by a genius named Marvin Bauman.

They were aimed at Ford tractors in order to use Howard's roto-tiller, which they called a "rotovator". It's not an auxiliary transmission like the Sherman and the Hupp, it's more of an auxiliary rear end to slow the tractor while allowing the PTO to continue to spin at 540rpm. You can't do...

You definitely should not have a voltage regulator in the charging system if you have upgraded to a 12v alternator. The alternator is internally regulated.

Wiring for yours should look like this:

The factory ammeter was the loop type:

Is your amp meter the loop (inductive) or terminal type? The presence of a resistor would indicate that you still have a 6v coil. You don't need it with the 12v coil - it will affect performance/running.

Do you know the model of your loader? If the manufacturer's tag is still on it, it should show the model number to prefix with 19-. Ford Dearborn did sell a kit to add bucket control but I doubt that the kits are still available. I do have the instructions that came with the kit and can share...

If you don't have an owner's manual for it, you can download a free one from here: https://www.ntractorclub.com/manuals/tractors/Ford%20Tractor%20Owner's%20Manual,%20Model%20NAA.pdf

When you open the fuel valve on the sediment bowl, you normally only open it 2 full turns. When you get low or run out, you continue to open it all the way which provides another gallon to get you back to the barn. You don't normally want to run with it fully open all the time because you get...

What year is your 8N or which steering gear box you are rebuilding? The 8N had two, the later one was the better one to rebuild. The pre- mid-'49 had four bolts: The later, mid-'49 to '52 one only has two bolts: I can show you where to install a grease zerk to help you grease it when I know...

Absolutely! I plowed with a Dearborn 2-14 behind my '52 8N (23hp) for years. Used it behind my 33hp diesel MF tractor after that.

If you can find a donor hood, even a junker that still has some good sections along those ridges, you can cut out the good sections and weld them to the bad areas on your hood after you cut out the rusted sections. That will save some bodywork labor on your part. As John said, this is the area...

https://www.ntractorclub.com/howtos/pdfs/Repairing-an-8N-Ford-Hood.pdf

https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/FIL1512?impressionRank=2

Agree on the #2 Permatex. I know a number of people who have used the blue RTV and been satisfied with the result, but I've been a fan of #2 since my days working on air-cooled VW engines. I used #2 to seal the case (block) when reassembling and never had a leak.

You are actually aiming for zero load here and that's hard to gauge. I'm with John - you are better off if it is a tad loose than tight. Too tight will destroy the axle bearings. I also recommend that you reassemble with some Permatex Ultra Blue silicone RTV on all flange faces and wherever...

You can buy a pipe layer add-on for a subsoiler, or use the photos in this ad to fabricate one: PIPELAYER F/ASC 73410A I had to bury a 100' run of coaxial cable for my DirecTV dish and rented a ground saw that made pretty quick work of it.

I got these on Amazon - work very well to get down behind the radiator...

Get a battery load tester like this and it will let you know if it's a weak battery or the solenoid is starting to go:

The 8N-B you see cast into the engine indicates a 2nd generation 8N block that was fitted for the side-mount (aka angle drive) distributor. It also indicates that your engine came from the factory with .040 steel sleeves, but that doesn't mean this was not changed during a subsequent engine...

I've always used Shell Rotella 15w-40 in my 3000. I'm in Virginia with mild Winters and I do use mine year-round.

There are other locations where you can check for casting dates. If all are fairly close, then you are lucky to have a pretty original 8N. Crawl underneath with a rag and check under your hydraulic pump for a non-coded date: The rear axle housing also should have one:

I forgot to mention previously that you can determine when your engine was manufactured by the casting date here:

Sounds like a split and clutch replacement is in your future. A band-aid fix might be removing your starter (careful because the two bolts that mount it to the flange also hold it together so have a couple of 5/16" nuts ready to screw on them as you remove the starter) and spray a can of brake...

When you park her, wedge the clutch pedal down to keep it from freezing to the flywheel. I use a piece of 1x1 but there are many ways to skin that cat.

I suspect there is another digit between the N and the 1. You have a later steering box that came out at serial number 216989. The 3-hole rocker came out at serial number 215759. The Proofmeter (tach and hourmeter) was added to the instrument panel at serial number 290271. The cotter pin is...

Just 8Ns has them, too: Welcome to just8ns.com - Redbelly Restoration Headquarters

>> I differ in opinion on this. First there is NO reason to drain the hydraulic oil. You will lose a very small amount when you unscrew the filter so have something underneath it to catch that which is no big deal. << I agree with this. I don't change my fluid. I only change the filter and...

That is the entire manual. I think that you are confusing "page" with "paragraph", which is how the I&T manuals section information.

https://www.ntractorclub.com/manuals/service-troubleshooting/I&T%20FO-19%20Shop%20Service%20Manual%20for%20Model%20NAA.pdf

There is a good chance that the grease in the leveling box has gotten solid. You can take it apart, but getting the pins out can be fun. Use lots of penetrating oil, a brass drift, and a 5 lb. hammer, and you may need the ole flame wrench but they will come out. You can then inspect it and...

Unless you modify your voltage regulator, you cannot keep your 8v battery charged to 8v (you really need to charge at 9+ for an 8v) - 7.2 or 7.3 at most. Plus, 8v batteries have gotten pricey because they don't sell many of them. Personally, I would go all the way to 12v if I did not want to...

I would not have a tractor without a hydraulic top link anymore: Hydraulic Top Link-Tractor, 3 point It's so much more convenient to adjust the top link from the seat instead of stopping the tractor and getting off and back on.

If you cannot tweak your voltage regulator to charge an 8v battery you will constantly run it undercharged, so you may as well get another 6v or convert it to 12v in my opinion.

If you have remote hydraulics set up on your 3000 you can install a hydraulic top link. They are super handy.

If you want to replace the bracket, you can use this:

I use Rotella 15w-40 in mine. I'm in Virginia so Winters are not brutal here. The only two places where you can probably find an original light switch would be a New Holland dealer or a tractor bone yard if you have any near you. eBay might, also.

Data sheet with specs: https://www.ntractorclub.com/manuals/tractors/Ford%203000%20Series%20Tractor%20Data%20&%20Spec%20Sheet.pdf

I love it - love the blue LED's, too. You can download a free owner's manual here: https://www.ntractorclub.com/manuals/tractors/Operators%20Manual%20All%20Purpose%20and%20LCG%20Tractors%202000,3000,4000,and%205000.pdf

What John said:

I'll go down in the morning and take a photo of mine. Stay tuned....

Is this what you have in mind? 9N5260-9N5260 Years:1939-52 Bracket (Muffler Outlet Pipe)

The running boards on the OP's tractor are aftermarket accessory items.

Here's my 2-cents: If you want a parade tractor, then generally you want a restoration. The original color of a 9N is battleship gray, not red and medium gray. Inline filters like that are not only not original, they can often be an inhibitor to good gas flow in a gravity-delivery fuel system...

I've used Shell Rotella 15w-40 diesel engine oil in my old Fords for many years. Walmart has good prices on it: Robot or human?

Do not fill them to the top. This is a picture of my 8N but I believe it should be the same deal with your NAA. If the dipstick is missing from this location, remove the bottom bolt that is circled and fill to where the hydraulic fluid starts to run out of this bolt hole:

Me, too. Were it me, I would polarize it - can't hurt.

Do you have an owner's manual for it? Welcome to the forum!

It might not be the best time of year to get the best price for them, but they should come in handy up in your part of the country. Here's a pic of an old 8N with a cab, Dearborn V-snowplow, and Bombardier tracks taking care of business.

I can't help with a price but you can download a free instruction manual and parts list here: https://www.ntractorclub.com/manuals/accessories/Blackhawk%20Half-Track%20Instruction%20Manual%20and%20Parts%20List.pdf Your buyer may really appreciate having it.

You can test for a bad shut-off solenoid by removing it and trying to start. it contains a plunger inside that shuts off air to the fuel system. When you turn your ignition key on the plunger is supposed to retract and allow air in. When you turn the ignition key off, it extends and shuts off...

You can jump a 6-volt tractor from a 12-volt battery, just don't connect the two batteries the way you would on a normal jump. If you are jumping your 6v 8N, first make sure it is NOT in gear because you will be standing right in front of the rear tire and you may run yourself over. Connect...

Do you have power steering on your Kubota?

Looks like a Wagner WM-4 loader.

Chances are that your NAA had a loader on it in the past. Without power steering, you put a wider tire and pump it up to make it a little easier to steer with a full bucket. I would not run more than 28psi in them and 14psi in the rears if you don't intend to put a loader on it.

You can download a free owner's manual here: https://www.ntractorclub.com/manuals/tractors/Ford%20Tractor%20Owner's%20Manual,%20Model%20NAA.pdf

From the parts book it looks like you may need two tubes. I don't know for sure but it may be that the tube from the oil pressure gauge connects to a junction block, and the 2nd tube goes from there to the engine:

Here's the link to their online parts book: Search masseyferguson/651854/l | Shop AGCO Parts

It would be helpful to see close-up photos of the tractor, dash, etc. but it might be a Ford 4100: TractorData.com Ford 4100 tractor information

We have a lot of mature beech trees on our property and they shed branches like crazy. I use a combination of a clamp-on debris fork on my loader (Clamp on Debris Fork, 60 In. Bucket | Agri Supply 87637) and a landscape rake on the 3-point to get the ones that I can't just mow over to shred.

I have not read through all 12 pages of responses, so if this has been covered I apologize. The tips that I have read are excellent. Beyond gaining experience with pulling a trailer, you also need to learn how to load one properly to have the weight in the right places. Generally, most of the...

You said that you installed EI. I assume from Pertronix? Did you get the full kit with a new coil? Are you running the old-style copper plug wires or did you also upgrade them to modern ones? I don't think the old solid copper plug wires are suited for EI but you could ask the Pertronix...

I have the same tractor that I also bought new in '06. I bush hog a lot with it here in VA and have found that it really sucks in "stuff" and I not only have to stop after an hour or so to clean the two screens, but I also have to blow or hose off the bottom section of the radiator after I am...

Have you inspected the inside of the distributor cap and rotor for damage or signs of arcing?

Which distributor do you have on your 8N? Front-mount or side-mount (aka angle drive)? Did you do the 12v conversion or was it done when you bought the tractor?

I would not hesitate to buy a Ford utility tractor from the late 50's through mid 70's if they were in good shape. I grew up tuning distributors and carbs so it's not as mysterious as it would be to someone only used to electronic ignition and fuel injection. They are pretty bullet-proof and...

Here's a Gannon that was recently sold at auction: https://www.tractorhouse.com/listing/auction-results/217249715/gannon-13-534-blades-slash-box-scrapers-other-equipment

If it will help you sell it, point a potential buyer to this free download of an owner's manual for it: https://www.ntractorclub.com/manuals/tractors/Ford%204000%20Owners%20Manual.pdf

Absolutely!! Buy it for $1k, put maybe another $1,500 into it and you'll have a solid worker that you could flip for $4,000 in this area. There is a reason these old Fords are still around after 60 years - this one is from '62-64 and with a little love, it'll operate for another 60 years. This...