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Well I wasn’t able to fit the tip as I have clearance issues getting the tooth installed on the quick coupler. Luckily I only tack welded the ears on. They need to move upward 1/2”.

I have been thinking about creating a stand for this reason. Having a stand-up feature on the tooth itself allows it to be used anywhere on the job sight, I hadn’t thought of that. I just need to study your pictures as I am having trouble understanding how it works.

To keep perspective, the commercially available pieces are not cut on a band saw whose trim lines were transferred from carefully prepared templates. Developing the templates and trimming on the saw were by far the most time consuming portions of this project.

Today I will be fitting the tip on the tooth as I am here with my tractor. I plan to show how that goes later.

The tooth is welded inside and outside the hub.

Showing how the tooth passes through the hub to be plug welded on the end.

Finishing the hole to size with a boring bar.

Cutting with a hole saw. Notice the two drain holes I cut. This prevents chips from loading up in the cut and allows uninterrupted cutting. Much faster this way.

Here I am preparing to drill the corners of the trim for the quick coupler ears. The template has all the information needed. I can use this template in the future.

The hub is made from 4x8x 1/2” wall tube. Here I am milling a slot for the tooth to pass through.

The tooth is made from 3/4” Hot Rolled trimmed on the band saw.

After making templates from cardboard I went to cutting a kit. I did buy a replaceable tooth tip shown on the left.

I simply couldn’t get myself to spend $1,000 so off to the shop I went. Here the tooth is about 90% complete. I have yet to install the tip but I need to check clearance to the stick of the backhoe 150 miles away. This is for my JD 110 TLB.

I dig this. The fall arrestors is a great idea. I plan to make one to for the new shop. I will use a worm driven speed reducer. Such speed reducers are inherently safe. Great point on using as a workbench. I will remember this during the design. Good job!

Well, this job is ongoing as I gather the final pieces to secure the hoses and make the new pedal control as time allows. Here I am showing how the hard line is repositioned to accommodate the space taken by the new valve. You can see the needle nose pliers pointing to a bolt head on the floor...

Yes, it is obvious how it goes together and works but I didn’t see the advantage until I gave it more thought. I can see now an angled drawbar being less of a lever when pulling in a turn with the tractor, much like having a shorter drawbar would. I can see how this could improve tracking when...

Moreover, the cage where PIN number 6 is inserted is not square. Notice the sides of the cage are placed at an angle, presumably to allow clearance for the angle of the drawbar.

Yes, I understand these pins are typically greater than a slip fit however I want to know about the requirement for two pins. In the drawing, PIN number 6 is located in the center hole of the bracket. There is also a second PIN number 4 on the other end. It seems this pin can be inserted into...

Looks like I did it. This is a view from the bottom. Notice the “cage” on the left side where the drawbar is placed. It looks like the bar can pivot on the pin that goes through the hole in the cage.

I’m not sure what I am doing here.

The dealer wants over $800 for the bracket that secures the drawbar. So, off to the shop I go to make one. I was able to find a drawing of the bracket on the JD Parts catalog and also three pictures of one that is for sale ($900). I was able to get a good idea of what this bracket is to look...

Structural square or rectangular tubing will begin to separate as the lengthwise cut progresses. If you have a press you can straighten it. The trick is to block the piece up a small amount at a time so there is no chance of over bending. Add small increases of blocking as needed.

I’m sure the kubota TLB’s are fine machines but I have never operated any other than my 110. I actually would have bought a L48 if this 110 didn’t present itself first. One of the key features of the 110 is the creep function. This is a rocker switch that allows creeping forward or reverse...

But does it have a 3 point hitch?

Well look at that! I thought you were showing a typical grapple until I took a closer look. I have not seen a thumb for a loader until now.

Gosh, I thought so too when I first saw it. Anchor points are typically loaded in tension. This piece would be loaded with a high bending moment, not good. Also, too many sharp edges to safely attach anything. I actually passed on using this point for anchoring on the two occasions I loaded...

My 110 does exactly same. After a bit of warming I get three short flashes followed by one long one. It has done this for several years. I have not noticed any deficiency in performance so I never did anything to correct it.

There was no way the loader was to pick up the backhoe without ballast on the rear, I promptly gave up. I decided to use the loader in a different capacity. It was now much easier dropping the valve/hose assembly down rather than lifting it up into position.

I was looking for a way to manipulate the backhoe to facilitate installing the valve assembly. I discovered what may be the purpose of the heavy slots that are welded to the underside. What do you think fellows, fork pockets?

I have not been happy with my thumb lately. It has been painful for over a year now. It started when I ate more than my share of yogurt.

Needing to stretch the tie rods to somewhere close to the desired point and not having access to my torque wrench, I came up with this. I think I was able to get as close as most click or dial wrenches would have. I’m having trouble adding picture. I think I have the picture now.

Indeed, I have wanted a thumb the first time I saw one. I will be fabricating one as soon as this retrofit is done. I thought about attaching the pedal pad with a U-bolt so adjustments can be made. Then welding after a comfortable position is determined.

Yes, I talked with a fellow at the dealer today. He said the part is no longer in stock however he was able to order the “tie rod” from the manufacturer. It should be here early next week.

I I find your question Curious. I’m not sure how to answer. I don’t know anyone by name.

One of the three new studs is wrong. The new studs are longer to accommodate the space taken by the added valve. Two of the studs are 5/16”-18 and One is 3/8”-24. I need one 5/16 stud to complete the assembly. I will call Deere today to see if it available.

I am concerned about the interior. Do hydraulic hoses deteriorate from the inside which will then contaminate the fluid and eventually leak?

Well, the crimp on the fittings of two hoses have weakened from rust, I don’t trust them. Ironically, it was the fabric covering intended to protect the hose that caused water to be retained which caused the rust. I won’t be covering the steel fittings with protection this time. The hoses are...

I’m not following precisely here but I do know that conditions like this can benefit hugely with two people. Finding a way to apply a steady torque while applying impacting blows in the same direction is often the ticket to remove stubborn threaded connections. A grove cut into the fitting can...

These are backhoe hoses are on a 2004 JD TLB with 600 hours use. Most of the hours were taken up by the loader, not much backhoe use. The hoses are currently removed. Two have rusty fittings but what about the others that have no apparent damage? Cost/money is not a “big” concern here but I...

I am doing this job in a friends garage, a garage that is not intended for work of this nature. I was concerned the valve stack would separate when the through studs were loosened. This would have likely contaminated the inner workings of the valves. To my surprise the stack held together. Here...

Missing from this collection of parts is the foot control lever, linkage and support bearings. The parts catalogue shows a drawing of these, they are simple to fabricate.

Attempting to post pictures again.

Hopefully I can post pictures for you fellows. I have not tried to do so yet on this forum. The seventh function valve was an option that allowed control of an attachment such as a hydraulic thumb or grapple. My 110 TLB is a 2004, it appears drilling, cutting or modifying any of the structure...

I am following up with my recent experience. I had the same issue with my rock shaft and PTO. My 110 is a 2004 model. As far as I can tell the backhoe was never removed at 500 hours in 2017. I tested and replaced the presence switch and checked a few things but decided the problem was...

Well to be sure I don’t know if my T&T is JD OEM. I bought it and the Frontier box grader at auction about four years ago. The owner had a 110 and an array of JD attachments for it that appeared to be unused. The story was that he was starting a business years ago but got sick and later died...

I ran an underground steel pipe to a remote building 30 feet away. I pitched the pipe down hill to the building being fed. I also added a small reservoir and drain valve to each vertical end to trap and drain water. It worked reasonably well for several years until the pipe cracked from a...

I have not seen this feature before and I don’t know if mine does have it. It is JD original equipment. I will have a look when I get back to the shop.

To add, I already have a top and tilt kit and a Frontier box grader. Both were original equipment sold by John Deere for the 110 TLB. The box grader has a cylinder that controls the scarifier depth. So, I will need three remotes. I was just wondering how helpful the float feature would be for...

Yes something very much like this! My plan is to make a consolidated unit like the one shown in your picture but with a quick attach feature. This way it won’t be causing interference when the backhoe is used. Taking advantage of the existing quick couplers should make this feasible. Do I see a...

Yes adding rear remotes to the 110 TLB seems particularly easy as the hydraulic lines from the removed backhoe are easily accessible. I wonder how many 110’s were fitted with rear remotes from the factory. I suspect a significant amount were not due to the primary use of the backhoe. I bought...

I am interested in opinions on the configurations of the valves. I have the option of float. Do you think it is needed for any of the remotes? Is there any other considerations to adding remotes specifically for the grader box. Thanks for any help.

Fellows, I plan to add three rear remotes to my tractor specifically for a box scraper. Two remotes will control the top and tilt on the tractor, one remote for the cylinder on the scraper that controls the scarifier depth.

That was a quick response. Well the machine wasn’t always 12 years old. Has there never been a kit made?

Since the backhoe will be removed it seems logical to use the lines remaining on the tractor to feed the remotes. I think sourcing control valves with the same port size is also a good idea. This way there will be know concern of damage or overheating. Am I on the right track here fellows?

After searching for two days I could not find a kit for the 110 TLB. I am somewhat surprised. I suspect there would be a significant demand for such a kit and there doesn’t seem to be much complexity to create one, or so I think. If anyone knows of a kit available please feel free to tell about...

An update: I did not see any water in the tank when I opened the drain valve at the bottom. I also checked the fuel bowl and filter, no water there either. I considered trying to start it after these checks but I followed through with a nearly complete system drain. I had left the fuel tank...

Little did I know this post would help me years later. Again having the same issue. A search for similar problems revealed my old post that helped a bunch LOL!

Back home in Michigan now. Well it looks it would be prudent to be diligent about ensuring fresh clean fuel at start-up. Having issues 300 miles away from home in a rural area would be inconvenient. This especially when trying to make progress on a new shop and home.Thanks to all for helping...

I’m actually here now visiting my tractor but I don’t have time on this trip to nurture it. I noticed some rust pits developing on one of the rods. Later today I will look into what is needed for draining. The farmer who is storing it said some additive to the fuel tank will prevent water from...

Yes, it is a hydrostatic. Also the three point lift rocker does not work. I bought this 110 in 2018, I Believe The back hoe was never removed. I have read that some part of the hydraulic system can “seize” when the 3point is not used for long periods causing a malfunction.

As often happens for me my plan has changed for now. I won’t be visiting my tractor for a while yet. This tractor sat still for quite a while before I bought it. I did find a mouse nest in behind the instrument cluster. Thanks for the replies fellows. I will be checking for water.

Hello folks, I’m planning to visit and start my 110 after it has been still for about five years. It ran perfectly when I parked it. The Yanmar four cylinder always started almost instantly. It is outside in Ohio at a farmers home 300 miles away. I did not do anything to prepare the tractor for...

I need to remove mine too but am wondering how much effort to do so? Lifting it off is not a problem for me. I am curious how it is attached. My 110 is 300 miles away and I am considering bringing it up to my shop to do some repairs but my door is only 8 feet high.

My tractor is 300 miles away. I am considering bringing it home to do repairs but winter is coming and my shop has only an eight foot high door. Has anyone removed the ROPS? Is it possible to do in two hours or less? Is it at all possible?

I'm looking for a backup starter for my 110 as it has been acting up lately. I suspect the solenoid is the problem but I don't want to spend time repairing it when I get to my work site 300 miles away. A rebuilt starter from John Deere is over $500. I found other suppliers of rebuilt starters...

I ran my 110 out of fuel recently . According to the service manual the system is self bleeding so I thought I would simply add fuel and go. This was not the case. After refueling, the engine would start after a considerable amount of cranking and then for only a few seconds. I repeated this...

I ran my 110 out of fuel the other day. According to the service manual the system is self bleeding so I thought I would simply add fuel and go. This was not the case. After refueling, the engine would start after a considerable amount of cranking and then for only a few seconds. I repeated this...

Hello fellows, first post here. I will thank you for the information that I am looking for now because I am certain I will get it from here. I have searched the Internet for the last two days and called several dealers but no one can give me a definite answer. I am looking to buy a 110 but...