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No! 30 year old equipment that is well maintained and has some sort of parts supply is not too old to keep. It might be too hard for some peoples pride and it “could” cause some customers to unnecessarily question a company’s image and/or success.

IMHO you’ll need to mow it more regularly if you go to a zero turn. My recommendation for you would be the Cub Pro Z 700 or 900 series

Here is a nice air filter upgrade kit. https://powerequipmentman.com/products/air-filter-upgrade-kit?srsltid=AfmBOoqX0mMWAfZtmtWhEV8cxpcJOXlS0PiIM-_ns-leyR9k8E-MrkQi

What is the part number? Is it a 54/60/etc? My search f indicates the spring kit is available for the Titan.

I have the Kawasaki 23 with 54” deck. I wanted the Kohler 25 but nobody had them in stock and the TSC 0% financing for 48 months was ending soon. I will look into the Big Boy spring kit.

Subscribed to an old thread. I’ve been looking at ZT’s and the myride. At $4600 for the myride, my recent purchase is the best choice for the money. I had an hour meter installed and I have two hours on it. I really like it.

I see there are a number of service manuals available for purchase. Some are free but I do not know what systems they share with your unit...

Maybe I missed it. What size and type LS Tractor is this?

I’d say that is typical of brush failure, unless your wife was also rocking the ignition back and forth. With a new tractor it would likely be a bad connection rather than worn brushes. Typically, brushes can be replaced if you can buy them. Keep us posted.

I like Walmart.com because they typically use FedEx in my area and many times I receive the item the next day. I have found that I need to be careful regarding finding/understanding the return policy/return shipping requirements of the seller when fulfilled by a third party other than Walmart...

I’ve had good experiences with EBay and Amazon regarding returns and credits and free returns. I prefer Amazon because the reviews typically reflect the item you are purchasing and not just random merchandise like EBay. I screenshot all my orders and items, and details/specifications/etc. for...

I’ve got a 2002(?) hydro unit with a 48” deck. It has given me minimal problems mowing 4 acres of rough terrain, garage kept, not abused. The gas tank cracked and was repaired. The sheet metal holding the seat hinge cracked/repaired. The drag link broke. Head gaskets changed out in ‘21...

Hey all! You do not have to purchase any special tools or pay a shop to install these difficult to install seals. Here is an easy DIY I found and had my mechanic watch it and perform the procedure. It does seem easier if the vice jaws are smaller. I think the best twine/rope to use is a smooth...

My mechanic replaced the seals in both my bucket cylinders. There’s a really neat DIY trick to install the cup seals on the piston located on YouTube.

So sorry. A foolish mistake.

I was thinking of a dremmel or cut wheel to protect the tractor, since the pto shaft is about a $150, then buy a new pto shaft.

So the previous repair did not last long. How warped was the head?

“… I pulled the glow plugs and was able to turn over the engine and it blew quite a lot of coolant from the #3 cylinder. #3 shows 400 psi of compression, the other three show 500 psi, so I don't think I bent any valves...” When you pull your head, check the piston height as you may have bent...

Sorry, TTY bolts are engineered to be stretched to a specific point during tightening, which creates a high and predictable clamping force over repeated cycles of cold/hot. Non-TTY bolts can be reused and are usually re-toured at some given interval.

My Technician found a source of my bucket drift. Months ago he isolated these cylinders and they proved fine. It just goes to show me that things are alright until they are not.

My Tech found this today on my Ansung BL-20 loader bucket circuit. Long story short- Curl cylinders were isolated to determine source of drift. Initial test months ago Indicated cylinders were fine. Curl circuit was now drifting due to left cylinder internal seal damage.

Many of my colleagues have insisted that gaskets do not need sealant, but I have used “Copper Coat” sealant spray with 100% success and I would continue to use it if I ever recover from my current health issues.

From my research, my 2004 3520 does not have stretch head bolts so I ensured my head was torqued to spec. If there is no coolant in the engine ***THIS INCLUDES THE CYLINDERS*** it should not hurt the engine “further” if you run it shortly to lift the loader.

I had my mechanic install the pilot operated check valve on the bucket circuit. It works fine and removed all the creep/drift in the circuit.

When the flat starts becoming an inconvenience you can no longer tolerate. My tractor has 450 hours now, but I had two flats on the right front within no time after purchasing it. Jagged metal fence posts were just below the grasses and sliced a tread on the front and rear. Later, one of them...

;) I don’t know why I didn’t think of this before, If you had a greenhouse, you could move it inside. Many times it’s too warm in the winter and has to be ventilated anyway, so opening the door shouldn’t be a problem, nor would the extra water.

This is what I was thinking, this will also SLOW my dumping circuit- as from new it seemed real fast as if it released, so I was always careful dumping the bucket.

I’m sorry if I was not clear or if I misled you all, my controller is a joystick with the tie rod like linkage below the handle. It would be easier to just replace the main valve unit. Is there any requirement or pass/fail rule for new control valves with creep/drift?

Thanks, the boot has been replaced. I had my mechanic stop in and remove the boot and disassemble the linkage. The linkage was stiff and dirty. He cleaned lubricated the linkage with some special lube and cleaned and lubed the areas at the spools. The controller certainly is much smoother...

Thank you, I will take a close look at that. For the longest time my rubber boot covering and protecting the linkage was damaged. I finally replaced it, but did not perform any cleaning other than blowing the area clean with my breath.

My 2004 Branson was stored outdoors at the dealership when it was new. The dealership was located in a hilly area where road salts were used AND, my tractor has been outdoors on my property since, with nothing more than a tarp covering it when snow/sleet was expected. My fittings have just a...

Greetings, My bucket curl circuit developed a slight creep over the years and has gotten worse. I isolated the cylinders from the valve and the pistons held without ANY movement. Which led us to believe the bypassing is occurring in the valve. What was strange is the creep/ bypass stopped...

That didn’t last long. I changed out the grapple for the snow plow and now it seems the circuit is bypassing even more. I had the cylinders blanked off and the bucket held leading us to believe the bypass/ creep is in the valve itself. I’ll create a separate thread to ask questions and document...

I clean a little around the auger, fan, and chute so it will function smoothly if it freezes. My garage floor drains towards the door. I started to leave my blower outside when used because one day the door seal froze to the concrete and I could not get the door to open.

I’m not sure, it has been a long time and my memory may not be exact, but maybe this will help you. When I was turning wrenches back in the ‘80’s many vehicles came in with hard and intermittent electronic issues. Some of the hard issues we confidently knew exactly what it was and the repair...

I guess the answer to your first post is yes and depending on the problem the frustration was understandable or not. We’re trying to help you. Obviously you brought the tractor to 5 dealerships due to some negative or undesirable operation or appearance, ie “problem”. Q: What is the problem or...

So, it's not fixed, but it is better than it was previously. Apparently the creeping condition has only slowed down after putting some stress on the circuit with the install of my snow plow.

I had the hydraulic hoses changed on my backhoe yesterday. Long story short, the system was opened and closed twice. The silver lining is..... The excessive creep that previously developed in my loader-curl circuit is totally gone! The air in the system must have cleaned the debris in the valve...

@ Tomplum: I didn't realize this cub had the fast attach system when I purchased it. I observed a video where the quick flanges were worn from debris and to me the wear should affect balance. I thought I might change the spindles out for a star or something else, but someone said the pulleys...

I checked my posts and I don't see the "QD" you referenced, but maybe it was a typo/autocorrect that was edited.

I can appreciate that method for sure, but none of the blades I have ever purchased were sharp. And 30 degrees is the standard, but I've eyeballed 45 degrees and that works best at slicing and dicing and has a good debris tolerance. I've use six mowers and with exceptions of the newly acquired...

Good day everyone. I recently purchased a XT2GX54D with a fabricated deck and the fastattatch blade system. My research indicated the fastattatch blades required dealership balancing or a special insert to balance if one is sharpening at home. I finally purchased a sharpening and balancing kit...

I tried peppermint oil but it seems unless I apply it frequently it doesn't work. I have gone to covering my engines with a clear trash bag or clear tub container and it works best. It seems the rodents like it dark, so if you have a hood it needs to stay up so light gets on the scene.

Lol, sorry for the dilemma. I'm going to ask, lol, you to repost that information in a completely new thread titled 'What has your Branson done to you today'. Lol, I'm just kidding and that humor was probably funnier in my head and best left there. I was in the data mining/information gathering...

I like the way you used your bucket.

Will you post clearer photos and additional photos from further away?

I spray bug-b-gone about every other year under my platform, in the center console, the backhoe, and other nooks and crannies that facilitate homes for wasps, dobbers, and spiders.

Yesterday, I turned over and mixed two piles of homemade top soil. Some time back i had a cylinder leak down test performed and found out my hydraulic spool/ controller is bypassing on the bucket circuit. Looking for options and/or a replacement.

It might take a day or so to clear the smoke or burn any tailings from inside the muffler. If a larger dose of the oil did get into the cylinder, I would suspect the cylinder over pressurized and the high compression has cracked the piston, especially if you used ether to restart the engine.

I believe that is the operation. I checked mine the other day but I forgot to report back to you. The good thing is that section can be removed and a welder can easily restore those surfaces in green💚 if they are worn. Maybe the roll pin or barrel is worn and all that is required is replacement...

Any updates?

[Edit: Yes, you are correct. I confused the two.] "Anti-drop load checks on each spool."...

I incorporated an external [load hold] check valve for my grapple.

Bucket requires a load check as well otherwise the bucket would uncurl as you try to curl operate the lever. Most loader spools incorporate an internal check on those two circuits. [Edit: Disregard, I think that's what you said.]

Yes, cylinder seals can be the issue. I was thinking the load check in the main valve body. If the cylinders do not drop during the isolation test mentioned, I would bank on the integral load check [Edit: which is generally cheaper to replace your main spool].

My tractor and backhoe does not have an oil cooler and a few times early on during heavy use I could smell warm oil. My transmission is gear and not hydro. For those of you with a cooler and elevated temps, can you install a remote unit in the return line with a fan in the open space...

Try switching out the cylinders with each side and see if your problem changes with the cylinder. That should indicate that fluid is leaking past the packing when it's hot.

What might be even easier, you may only need to replace the bushings or bearings for the stem...

Have you thought of paying someone or bartering with someone to fix it? The real simple fix is it might only cost you two chickens and not a whole flock, ;)

That is a real simple fix. The tail wheel and fork assembly should be available online. That neck can be easily sleeved and welded, and reuse the fork even if the stem is not badly worn.

Any updates?

This appears to be a direct replacement (Identical to mine) suspension seat for the 2004 3520 at KM 42 Seat & Mech Semi-Suspension | Compact Tractor | Tractorseats.com

Rereading you post, to your point, adding a suspension seat is cheaper. Thanks

Yes! I like the [El] Toro myride suspension concept given that it seems suspensions are non-existent or only available in the higher priced models.

I know it's an old thread, but I've been shopping for my first zero turn. The transmissions do make a difference and in my research I'm finding the $2700 Murray Cruz uses the same EZT2200 transmission as the $3500/$4500 Cub/Badboy. To me, this means the Murray could be overbuilt or the...

Prayer sent for your wife and you. Apparently you lost more than 2.5 gallons somewhere around the third or fourth trip, if you recall accurately. You need to add more fluid to bring the level into the sight glass before you start it again. You probably were sucking air for more than a thousand...

If it is anything like mine, it is a proprietary quick connect. I had to have a fabrication/mod to accept the SSQA blanks/attachments. Mine looked like this.

Here is the Combo, but you can get them separately if you want.

The brand is Express Steel, Made and Fabricated in Indiana- USA (High quality item that doesn't cost you the farm or your first born). I'm not a paid spokesperson- just a satisfied customer who paid a fair price for a good product.

Due to this posting, I took a casual gander at IronCraft and like the pricing of their 4way bucket. There is a dealer about 50 miles from me that supposedly carries their product.

Nice. I like mine also. I also have a short set from another brand but I don't use them often due to their size.

Unless your soil is sandy, I would disagree, but it all depends on the users need. I have struggled with buyers remorse all my life and I do not regret this purchase at all. I shopped the add on's and the prices were the same or close to a $100 of the price of a full grapple itself, and the "add...

I got a sweet 48"-6.6KHD fork (100#lighter) and grapple "combo" from Express Steel (Made in USA) for around $2300 with free shipping. https://expresssteelinc.com/product-category/es-attachments/universal-quick-attach/combos/

If the solenoid moves out with power on I suspect that opens the fuel valve. Now, there is also a "hold" circuit to prevent the extended linkage from retracting until the key is turned off. If the solenoid opens the fuel valve with extended stroke on power on, then retracts quickly and closes...

You don't need to remove it to test it. Just watch the solenoid when you turn on the key. The tip of your solenoid appears modified/welded. Maybe the solenoid is an aftermarket mod without the proper throw or pull. Your IP lever appears dry and possibly the welded "nut" and the linkage bend is...

Yes. Yours should be an exterior solenoid with some sort of linkage going to the IP. There are plenty of photos here in our Branny group

https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/threads/power-steering-tank.195645/

It might be too late after the JB, but Amazon has some inexpensive die crimpers that might work

Shop your towing weight. 4x4 a given requirement. Your mension of revines prompts me for you to opt for agricultural tires at first, then if budget permits buy R4s later.

I forgot, my '04 has a fuel cut off solenoid that sounds like a sharp clunk noise when I turn the key on. If that is not moving the IP lever to open/run/on position, you won't get any fuel to the injectors. Yours probably has one also. I hope this helps, keep us posted.

There is a banjo bolt on the fuel line at the IP and I have used this to bleed air. Listen to the sound of your fuel pump, is it slow/fast and does it sound light and raspy or heavy and solid? My pump runs real fast and sounds light and raspy when I initially turn the key on, then in a second or...

So sorry for your trouble. I never had that happen. I did have a bucket on my backhoe break at the weld areas. The welds barely penetrated the steel. The welds were intact and separated from the adjoining metal as if it was wax laid on the seam. Anyway, if your mount is a bolt on, I would...

My Branson is gear with no Regen and I do not use it at full rpm unless the power is needed. I certainly idle when shifting. I have a smaller hydro gasser and do not run full rpm unless needed even on fast forward/reverse and have not had any issues with the hydro in 22 years.

I don't have a pusher. And I do not have high banks or buildings blocking my snow storage areas. I do like the idea of a pusher since there is no bucket bottom to hold snow. I also like the idea of modding the sides of a pusher so they can power out and act as a plow. I might modify one of my...

To reduce the heavy crown in the center?

You are right about debris. My Branson came with that strainer as standard equipment. But a super small grain sized piece of debris stopped my original fuel pump and it's replacement. Now I have a clear inline auto filter before the pump (forgot to mention earlier).

That revving up is typical of air. Knowing you have a leak I would suspect air first.

My system was under a positive pressure since the pump was just before it on the upper firewall.

This was the first thing I abandoned due to hose fittings that were a tapered press-fit and apparently sealed with clear glue. One of my hose fittings was damp and when I touched the fitting it moved. I put a plain clear auto type filter in its place and haven't had any problems since.

*** I also would suggest investigating that white gear timing mark that appears to be factory and use it. If you do turn the engine and not use the factory timing mark or your yellow mark, you will need to make a new painted mark to ensure timing. Good luck, we're all hoping the best. Please...

Also, it appears those threaded studs that secure the cover plate are in the way. I think- if you push your IP back into the engine you can rotate the engine enough to bring those hole to a horizontal position and use those smaller/linear pullers.

Do the bolts from your puller fit into the gear correctly and out of the 2.5" hole? If they do, this is the time many mechanics and technicals sacrifice the tool and modify it for the specific job-it pretty much becomes a "specialty" tool. My advice is wait for a smaller tool or modify one to...

I know this is an old thread, but I recently replaced my original front tires last year. They were severely cracked on the side walls. My RF tire was punctured in the tread by a sharp fence post-stub and repaired with tire glue and a large internal patch, probably before 2010. I think the weak...

Any updates on this?

Even though I answered your post earlier I forgot that my fuel gage stopped working early on and my fuel gage sender unit was also replaced under warranty.

Do the hydrostatic transmissions require bleeding after assembly?

Dash/gage clusters?

Have you seen any rodent activity?

What do the engine and battery fasteners look like?

My backhoe is an older Branson/Kukje 7620 made byAmeriquip. Here are some measurements for your BH150. https://www.tractorhouse.com/listing/for-sale/231468047/2021-branson-bh150-bucket-farm-attachments

Hi ning, That's a great attachment. I think I could use those attachments as well. I assume "the" original bucket mounts to the adapter? I went to the site and did not see any measurements or want to provide my email in order to get the question answered. One would think they would provide this...

I overlooked this part of your post, sorry. They probably do not offer an aftermarket plate. Since this plate is in a down and dirty location I personally would not chance an aftermarket part due to the possibility of tolerance variations. If the top seal leaks, you'll have water and debris in...

Do you see Teflon tape on any of your fittings? Your system and that valve could be contaminated. [Nevermind]

Here you go...

There appears to be two threaded holes on that gear. A general metric sized puller set or steering wheel puller from HF/Advance/AutoZone should include those bolt sizes and if the gear is loose, you might not have to remove the shroud/radiator as the puller body without the center stud will just...

You need to get a few metric bolt sizes and threads to find out what pitch those holes are. Hopefully that gear comes off easily once you remove the mounting nut. If nothing else, get some coat hangers or rods in those holes so the gear doesn't drop down where you might not reach it. And watch...

On second view, the white paint looks like your factory timing mark. There appears to be a mark or groove under the paint. I would turn the engine further to see if there is a mate to this mark, if so, use the white mark. Did you add the yellow paint? Have you tried to remove the nut that holds...

That looks like the opening to the IP gear. The yellow painted lines are matched up and I would presume would indicate the pump is properly timed with the engine. Im not sure about your white mark.

My tie rod ends and upper plates were replaced under warranty. The tie rod holes in the upper turning plate were egged out of round, but I thought the tie rods appeared normal. The newer pins in the tie rod ends are substantially larger as is the plate.

There are a ton of them online. Seems to me, next to getting an answer here, the easiest thing for you to do is measure your drawbar openings and then ask the sellers what their measurements are.

Any update on this? FYI Forum Members. I have successfully repaired several plastic fuel tanks in the past. Regarding plastic weld, I would suggest the welding rod over the liquid weld. I gave up on the liquid more than a decade ago. I used a heated iron and it made the broken pieces one...

One thing I dislike about my hydro is the reverse speed. All hydros make some noise. If your pump is making a loud annoying whine sound when the hydro is engaged it could be cavitating due to air or a restriction. This will rob the tractor of power and speed and may eventually damage the...

Any progress on this? I don't know how your engine power is robbing you, and turning the IP up might work. What I suggest can help you/all of us get more use from our tractors in matching the load/work to its size and is also applicable to any size tractor. 1. Check the hydraulic pressure and...

Any progress report on your decision? I purchased a subframe mounted backhoe with my 2004 3520. Very easy to remove and not all that hard to mount. Hook the hydraulic lines up when you get close and you can use the outriggers and boom/dipper to bring the mounts to the pins. One issue is having...

There are advantages with new technology. But I am glad much of my stuff doesn't have it.

I use my 4WD quite often, but I usually disengage it when done, but I don't use my PTO often, so I went out yesterday and moved them in and out to ensure they moved. Thanks for the reminder

There is a document floating around that details a bypass kit. I replaced my plastic tank with metal and use the same fluid as all my axles. TBN. https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/threads/power-steering-tank.195645/

Now might be the time to install a stripped mechanical injection pump, if possible, due to all that heat damage and get rid of that crap.

I've never replaced a dual stage clutch. Have you checked your pilot bearing for wear? This keeps the input shaft aligned and prevents side to side movement. I almost always use the foot throttle and power down when shifting, this reduces wear on the pilot and throw out bearings.

I run a battery from Sam's with the three year exchange with good success. Someone here says only the redtop works in below zero climates.

I always found these lights next to useless because I have a loader. I installed a set much higher.

If my tire pressures are right, my gear tension is minimal and it usually comes out of 4WD very easily, otherwise I lift the front end and it comes right out. Also, many years back I developed a similar difficult to move problem. My brakes were sticking at the shafts outside the brake...

I'd be carefully about rapping your levers with a hammer unless the lever is disconnected from the linkage.

The length of this cap seems to indicate that you have float. We need more pictures of this back area only.

I thought it was an advertisement.

A sawzall on a stump root is a great idea. I was using a Maddox when I was doing stump work before the advent of battery powered sawzalls, and that's hard work.

I'm a little younger than you and my list encompasses one brand🎇 in several models. The 1950 Ferguson T020 I have seems to me a forever tractor that just keeps going. With that said, I have a 2004 Branson 3520 that has had very few problems, so I don't know about parts. For your purposes maybe...

Yeah, IMO that filter assembly is suspect at best. I replaced mine early on for a clear horizontal auto fuel filter. Doesn't look snazzy but offers a clear visual indicator for water or lack of fuel.

Any news?

I [seem to remember] early on, owners had 3 pt arms [thingy] that weren't working because the knob under the seat was turned too far one way or the other

Or, if the world has no shackles on you, then take your time and enjoy life.

If you think you need one size, go one size bigger.

In 2002-04 I test drove several tractors in different sizes and decided a Branson 3520 was not too big. The smaller sizes I thought were too close to the capabilities of my 1971 12Hp Powerking. Also, 4x4 is a must.

Yes, 'for the most part' I think so. Stump grinding is hard on the machine and post hole digging will depend on your soil. A smaller frame and horsepower will limit you in job size due to speed and time to completion. Compare a small mouse and a large rat with a piece of cheese, the rat might...

Gotcha

The circled lever is where the solenoid connects? Have you checked to see if the banjo bolt/bleeder has a fine mesh screen or a screen below the bolt? And the vertical fitting to the right if it originates from the same line? I would highly recommend bypassing/replacing your filter with a clear...

Is the rod on the upper left fuel cut off or throttle? What is the lever circled in yellow? Where is your throttle connected?

I "believe" it is all open or all closed and our design should pull when energized. Or will push or pull in the opposite design of any spring tension. You could rotate the IP lever towards the seat and try starting and try the reverse if that doesn't work. Then once you see the movement...

Possibly. Check the throw of the lever as compared to the throw of the solenoid and go from there. If your ignition is damaged, it may be causing the problem where the pull in portion is not being de-energized. I would determine how the solenoid works while disconnected from the wiring harness...

Yeah, you have to be careful. I submitted progress photos of my log splitter log lift build on two forums and now one of my photos are featured on a build plan website.

When you posted your photo of the lower pipe, you mentioned you built your loader, did you design it or just install it, and is there a photo here?

My filter/return design is different. My filter is located near the LR wheel and there is a short 90 hose to the axle housing, and a short straight to the return pipe. My 90 is more vulnerable to damage than your system if I ride over a small sapling and immediately back up. The straight hose to...

Your unit may also have a return hose down low near the rear transaxle and filter.

After looking at your photo again, many surfaces near/above/below the IP appears wet. Is it fuel or oil? Additionally, do you have an external solenoid/lever fuel cut off or is it an internal cut off switch?

** I FORGOT** Get rid of that piece of crap filter combo. I removed mine in the second (?) year because the fittings are pressed in and sealed with a nail polish like material and they loosen easily, leak and suck air. I put a straight clear auto filter in line.

How does it start if you run two or more GP cycles when it's cold? Could be air if it does this only on initial start up after sitting a while (depends on size of air leak, if applicable). Diesels rely on compression for combustion, low compression will cause harder starts, especially when cold...

From my 2004, 2810-4320 Series Tractor Manual

So mine is a dual coil solenoid. It uses two separate coil windings to allow the solenoid to be held energized for long periods of time without overheating. The first wound coil (pull coil) operates at a high current level to provide maximum pull or push. The second wound coil (hold coil) holds...

My solenoid has 3 wires, W, Blk, R

Does it not indicate this info on the solenoid? I think the solenoid strokes the lever with power on, so if your other relay is rated at 7 amperes I would think the fuel cut off solenoid would draw no more than 80% of the relay max current. One might think no more than 5.6 amperes. I don't know...

I would take the loader/backhoe, whether it is fixed center pivot or 3 point (with subframe) 4x4 is a must over a skid steer. I have a smaller loader with 3 point (subframe) backhoe and I have not regretted the extra cost. If I were ever to go larger, I would take either a center or side shift

I think one doesn't have to worry all that much if you are using it frequently since it takes down time on the equipment for the rodent to investigate and scout for lodging, unless there is a history of activity. If you find a nest and clear it, I Believe it is highly likely the rodent will be...

I always check under the hood before I use the tractor, because I have found nuts and nesting materials on top of the engine. Also, the falling leaves tend to collect around the outside near the firewall.

If you have a loader, the stock lights are worthless with the loader down. On my 2004 I can add lights on the brush bar and that is a better height for loading. I have my lights at the ROPS height and it works nicely. With the price of the LED's, I might change over.

Mine don't smoke and the pipe is black.

In my 1985, I add a quart of atf per 16/20 gallon tank every once in a while and I think the engine performance is noticeably much better- maybe because I think it works?

That is a nice subframe. I have one. How in the world did that bolt come loose?

Looking at the picture of your tractor, that amount may be correct. Recommend putting tractor on level ground, check level to ensure full; drain, refill, check level.

I bought a unit on clearance from TSC. I haven't installed it yet. It will require cutting the frame of the original, and drilling some holes to reuse the suspension system I got this $299 one for $80 https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/countyline-skid-loader-seat-black-460000bk-cnl .

It's getting to look a lot like spring, things have warmed up, ground is drying and the bunnies are moving their stuff.

You could also consider turning your rear wheels to an outside profile if not already done

Can you remove the outside stabilizer bar and use an inside check/stabilizer chain? Or a inside stabilizer connected to the swing draw bar or swing drawbar plate? With the inside connections, I think you would have to be careful with the geometry to allow for lift operation; or fix the hitch so...

So does the statement, "...The updated rules do not revise the 24-hour standard which is meant to account for short-term spikes in pollution. That will remain at 35 micrograms per cubic meter...." mean that all the billionaires can fly to Baku & Dubai in an empty jet so long as engine time is...

Yeah, I think it is a Euro and will fit on the lower outside pins. I couldn't get anyone to give me any measurements for these adapters and for $88 I passed because they do not have the angle the bucket has. So, I made my own, but it is not the best design. Let me/US know so I can adapt. Thanks...

Broken off and no other obvious damage? Do you have photos?

Just picked this chart up today from another thread. Make sure your diligence ensures it's accuracy. https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/threads/branson-oil-filter-cross-reference.63164/

Wow, that 3786C is a popular engine oil filter.

If I remember correctly the 3520 & the 4020 use the same block, but the 4020 is turbo, is that correct?

How much did it cost might give us an idea. A couple hundred should pay for the car like fuel pump on the firewall. I replaced two of these at $17 each. The injection pump (IP) might run you $2k or more.

Sweet! The cab is full of flags. Thanks

Where is the red, white, and blue?

Nice job! "...maneuverability was super limited so I wasn't able to get the very middle of the lane packed..." This is where back-dragging your bucket with down pressure works well (bucket flat and front tires off the ground) and turning the tractor with the rear brakes (requires flipping the...

Subscribed, can't find picture to post

May not be relavent Branson 3520 has a quick attach subframe for the backhoe that mates at the loader plates.

I would think we would see dig marks in the snow from the tires, and as one poster mentioned it is a green tractor.

My guess is it wasn't strapped and slid off a trailer.

Cavitation isn't good for any pump.

Is there a drop in replacement for the engine available? It stinks, but 4/5k is a cheap fix for a tractor that size

That stinks!

Is it not on the sidewall of the tire?

I wrote pushrods, but I meant connecting rods. Anyway, glad you have no additional noises.

My ground rarely freezes so I typically use a walk behind blower. But, recently I saw a rig on YouTube with an EXTRA set of shoes and I'm going to try that for the unfrozen tundra driveway of ours

Picked up a 72" Kubota box scrape to mount on an extra SSQA adapter plate for front grading or as a snow pusher. I may use my 60" County line instead because this thing is heavy.

I'd change the engine oil again after an hour or so of non-load normal operation. Then again after several hours of run time and return to normal change interval. Your lucky to not have bent your [connecting] rods, maybe because you were idling. Is there a new sound in the engine; one that...

Have you viewed the Mahindra threads here or anywhere else? Before I bought mine, the dealer said check out this TBN site, or online reviews and decide for yourself. There are better and worse brands out there, but when there is greater $$$ difference between brands there may be loyalists that...

I'd check crankcase ventilation also. Sometimes the IP seal will fail and dump fuel into the crankcase. Do you have turbo? Could oil be leaking into the intake from the turbo?

I went out and looked at the snow plow I have connected. We got a couple + inches of snow, but the ground wasn't frozen at the time. Now the driveway is frozen but the snow is gone.

I got my two 10.50x16 front tractor tires from Amazon for $350 and changed them myself. The old tires were 6 ply rated and the new ones were 8 ply. Could have gotten 10/12 ply for a little extra but thought I couldn't install them myself. Plenty of YouTube videos showing how to install them.

In preparation for the possibility of snow, I connected the hoses for the plow L&R swing. Let it snow, let it snow, let it snow ...

After thinking about it, I believe I went to a top link because the blade always wanted to float up. The Meyers is heavy and maybe my loader arms were to low due to lack of actual practice with it. When we get snow here are it is typically a freezing/compactable sleet/slush under powder, if/when...

Can you show me where the plow frame mounts your plate? In my mod, the plow float was butchered and it is rigidly mounted to the female plate. The two old pivot pins don't permit any pivot and are only supplementally securing the inner-core tubing to the plate.

Lol.

Here's a photo of my first rig

Here are photos of my recently completed SSQA Western Ultra Finish unit.

I missed the sideways/chains question. No chains. The one year recently ('15?) we had substantial snow and there was not slippage, but I guess the Meyers added another 200+ pounds to my front axle.

As a funny haha regarding float, the first year I had the Meyers I plowed [graded] a neighbor's driveway that was obviously littered with ruts in some areas, it would have been nice to have more float with that experience.

My Meyers used the chain sleeved with a pipe to limit float, then I went with the top link and it worked fine. I preferred the top link since it gave me more control, since I slow plow. The top link on this new setup lends support and permits the tilt feature. I thought about removing the tilt...

Sure will. I used a Meyers in the same way bolted to my bucket. It worked fine on pavement but my slate driveway never froze so it kicked the slate to the curb. I'm suspecting this rig will work better, since it is lighter on my loader and now has a tilt feature- the tilt feature may or may it...

One SSQA has a Western Ultra Finish on it. I picked this unit up several years ago as salvage. I wanted to keep the tilt feature, the older Meyers is the same size but much heavier steel.

I purchased a couple SSQA plates.