Thanks to everyone for your help. I was able to trace the problem to the relay (which is mounted next to the horn, above the battery), and even managed to repair the relay although I may replace it at some point. You can see in the picture that one of the primary wires had broken free of the...
Gregster613 - thanks for that. Do you need to remove the instrument panel to access it or is it accessible from the bottom? Is it labeled in any meaningful way?
No, MTGreen, I haven't- good thought. I have about 810 hours on it so maybe it's time. I found the valve lash spec easily enough-
(Intake Valve Lash: .007-.009" cold (.178-.229 mm) Exhaust Valve Lash: .007-.009" cold (.178-.229 mm)) but haven't located anything about how often it ought to be...
No- I don't hear any noise at all. I'm a seasoned electrical troubleshooter but simply didn't know where the relay and or timer might be located. Since I posted I found a Mahindra 3510 parts diagram online (TYM made the HST 330 for Mahindra as the 3510) which gives me some idea where to look...
I must be dumb as all get out. I've had my TYM HST330 for 12 years, put 600+ hours on it, and never seemed to need the glow plugs to start it. It has the Kubota D1503 engine, and it's my first diesel engine product.
Sometimes it has been slower to start than others, but this year it has...
Greg- that's a good idea. But I guess my concern was that as weak as the detente is I wondered it it would move out of position anyway. It sounds like you've found that to be a reliable solution though, so maybe I'll give that a try. Was your 273 SVC set up in the same position as mine? Caine
I have a 2005 TYM HST330 which has mostly served me well. Made by TYM, it was also sold as the Mahindra 3510 (so you Mahindra owners might have a suggestion here). I bought it used in 2010 with 191 hours on it and recently passed 700.
It has an SCV (secondary control valve) and its control...
Thanks, Lineman. I did play with that while the tractor was running- opening it up and closing it down. The arms move only a little bit and weakly. I suspect a blown o-ring or if the gods favor, something wrong with the linkage. When the weather clears I'll pull the seat and panel and see...
Beenthere-
Unfortunately, the "rear end" pumpkin is in the way. It will require bracket extensions that stick out in the forward direction toward the tractor before the lateral piece of round stock can be welded in place. If I end up going that route I'll add some length to create more...
It may... but currently it is installed without a slip clutch (which is on its way here). Not sure of the exact length that will introduce but suspect it will be every bit of 4-1/2". I did buy another driveshaft in case I need it, but this little one came with the tiller (as did a new set of...
Quick follow-up-
So in the end, it looks like I did not buy a "pig in a poke." While the tiller sits close to the tractor, it is similar to what I've seen for Yanmar tillers on Yanmar tractors. For the moment I'm operational (as soon as the ground dries out a bit more). Also, the direction...
Thanks for the idea of the square stock, Eric. What model tiller to you have, and what do you pull it with? Are you using a quick hitch or just connecting directly?
As I look at the casting where the current pin is mounted, I don't see a way to get much more than 1-1/4" diameter of contact...
Thank you for the suggestion, DL- I've been noodling along those lines and will take another look with your thought of using a spacer like that. I was also thinking of getting a 7/8" grade B7 threaded rod, and using a Cat 2 bushing over it to reduce likelihood of it bending. But your idea is...
That was my concern too. If there were a larger flange to bolt a block of steel to, then it might be easy to extend. Skipping the quick hitch is looking attractive at this point.
This is helpful insight into what I'm dealing with, Bruce- custom configuration for a particular tractor- thank you. I'll explore modifying the tiller mount to make it fit with the quick hitch, and if that doesn't seem practical, then dispense with the quick hitch (per 5030's suggestion) when I...
While I'm not a total novice, I'm no tractor expert at all. My 33 HP TYM HST has held up well over the years, and I have no trouble swapping my brush hog, box blade, or rake on and off my 3 pt hitch.
I bought a tiller (Shibaura RS 3147, also sold as Yanmar) for a song and a dance. I've...
There have been a few threads on this site about replacing a Nimco 2S-40272 loader control valve with a replacement, and most of the dialogue I've found has centered on the Brand LV22 valve as a replacement. I've just come through a painful lesson that I thought I would pass on in hopes of...
Folks, I would sure appreciate any insight on the following. An ex-dealer I trust concluded that my problem is probably the computer/controller in my HST 330. I have two issues:
1. Engine won't shut off when I turn the key off. My assumption was that I needed a fuel shut-off solenoid. I...
I own a TYM 330 HST. I have been dismayed at the demise of the dealer network in Oregon, either leaving the business or unable to get parts. As one dealer put it to me, "they make a great tractor but their dealer support and parts network is terrible." And the TYM online resources are very...
I posted this as a reply to TJ200, but it appears at the bottom of the thread- I was hoping he might reply.
I appreciate that this is an old thread, but I had a question. First of all, thanks for a great post on replacing a Nimco 2S-40272- I appreciate the pictures.
It appears that you have...