10 ton manual wood splitter, convert to run on remotes

[mwemaxxowner]

I have a 10 ton manual wood splitter that is powered by a two stage bottle jack. The thing is pretty slick, and works well.

I have been pondering how to power it with the rear remotes or the third function valve on my bx1880. I think, if my calculations are correct, it would take about a 3.5" piston on a new double acting cylinder in place of the bottle jack to give me approximately 10 tons of force at 2,000 psi (which I'm shimmed to be close to).

I'm curious, though, about this. The manual "pumps" on the jack have a threaded connector to the body of the jack. It stands to reason that I could remove one of these, and make an adapter from that, to a hose to connect one of my rear remotes directly to the jack.

I need to measure it, but I think it's a 2.5" piston on the jack. That would only give me 5tons (approximately) of force from the tractor if I successfully converted that jack to a single acting cylinder. If I used the port on the jack for the quicker and less powerful stroke, and left the alternative manual pump on the jack intact, I want to believe I could still use the more powerful manual pump lever as well. So if I got into a stubborn log and the tractor force couldn't split it, I could use the manual lever to finish it.

I'm curious about this because it would give me the ability to still use the splitter full on manually (but slowly with the slowest "stage"), or with the tractor for easier splitting. I'm envisioning being able to do this at just the cost of some hose and fittings.

But, is 5 tons of force any use at all? Would I find myself still manually pumping the jack with every piece of wood?

Will a single acting cylinder work fine on the rear remotes? I think I've gathered when you move the lever to retract, the fluid can move back to the pump without a return line. If not, I'll scrap the idea entirely until I just get a DA cylinder to replace the bottle jack with. I have to decide if I want to completely give up the ability to use it without the tractor present.

 

[WranglerX]

If your tractor has the remotes It make more sense to use a DA cylinder... Keep in mind sometimes a splitting wedge can jam in a log and you will need to use power (manual or hydraulic) to extract it....And the more "tonnage" of splitter means more efficiency....

 

[mwemaxxowner]

I know it does, just thinking out loud and wondering what I can do for minimal costs (and also retain either tractor or manual operation). I have a front third function and rear remotes. Seems worth a try to just plumb one of the remotes in place of one of the manual "pumps", but I'm not totally sure a single acting will work properly. The screw to release pressure will still be there on the jack. I believe it also serves as a relief valve.


As is, the splitter has no powered retraction, only some large springs. That has always been adequate.

 

[LD1]

Make sure the port on the bottle jack is an actual pressure port direct to the internal cylinder, and not simply a fill or drain port for the reservoir. Otherwise you will blow the thing apart.

A 10-ton bottle jack will look like a big cylinder. But the real cylinder is MUCH smaller and inside. The outer housing is simply the reservoir.

And most bottle jacks arrive at their rating at 10,000psi. So a 10-ton jack will have ~1.5" cylinder inside.
It looks like a 2.5" cylinder cause that extra inch surrounding the ram is simply a thin piece of metal (can) to contain the non-pressurized oil.

Putting 1/5th the pressure to it, you can expect 1/5th the force....or about 2-tons.

The "best" you can hope for is to buy a cylinder of appropriate diameter and replace the bottle jack. But how are you going to control it. Are you ALSO going to put a valve at the splitter....or constantly have to reach up for the tractor valve.

The cost of a cylinder, valve, hoses, fittings.....you probably be better off selling what you have and actually buying a 3PH splitter.

 

[mwemaxxowner]

About the size of the piston, I see. Just to make sure, I was measuring the diameter of the rod that extends out of the housing that does the work, not the diameter of the housing itself. I was also trying to guess from photos though, I still have not dug mine out to measure in person. I was calculating it by diameter squared, multiplied by PI, divided by 4, then multiplied by the pressure. I believe this is the equation for lbs of force of a hydraulic cylinder.

If it's a 1.5" piston it's not worth messing with. At 2.5" it came up to 5 tons, and there are some electric 5 ton rated splitters which seem to do okay for what they are. At that size it might have been worth a try.

A double acting cylinder with a piston large enough to reach 10 tons force is very expensive. I priced a few last night.

As to the ports, the ports I'm talking about are where the manual lever "pump" moves in and out of the housing. For that part of the puzzle, it should work. In this area

I don't know why it would be a problem to operate by the levers on the tractor for the third function. If I'm working by the three point area it's right beside me at waist height. Still though, the cost of a cylinder alone is cost prohibitive.

A better option might be to replace the jack with a 10 ton air over hydraulic jack and use a cordless air compressor. I have one that works well and an assortment of 6 and 9 amp batteries for it. I thought it would be nice to use the tractor but I don't think that's the best course of action.

 

[LD1]

The air over hydraulic is not gonna be a good idea. They will consume alot of electric, and now you are wearing out a compressor.

Dont know what the stroke of the existing bottle jack is, but I cant imagine its more than 8 or 10". I can find 3.5 x 8 or 3.5 x 10 cylidners for a tad over $100. And if you think that is too expensive you should just stick with what you have. You are gonna have $100 or better in hoses and fittings to even hook to your remotes. then risk blowing the bottle jack....and still being spring return....what a PITA.

Watch market place or craigslist in your area. I am frequently seeing 3PH splitters for $300 or less.

But if $100 is too much to spend....again id suggest just leave it alone

 

[mwemaxxowner]

I saw more like $500. I'd spend $100 for a cylinder in a heartbeat. I think the stroke is just a little over 8".

I was assuming an air over hydraulic jack would use very little air, thanks for the warning!

 

[zzvyb6]

Complete waste of time. Tractor pressure will blow the ram apart. Awkward control position, wood in location A. Controls in location B. Dangerous if 2 person's trying to work together. Most common cylinder size is a 4"x24". Thats 15 tons at 2500 psi. Used splitters all over the place around here for under $1000. Sell the manual 1 to a Twink and get the job done with a dedicated splitter. Been there, done that.

 

[bdhsfz6]

I realize this has nothing to do with your question but I get disgusted when I think back about all the time and money I spent on wood splitter rigs over the years. I would have been better off throwing more $$ at it from the beginning and gone with something like this:

No lifting required. It splits the wood on the ground and moves it to a pile as well.

Well out of your price range though.

 

[big bubba]

good luck w/project, you'll find good info here better than i can offer. Question: is this splitter conversion a cost effective project for you, or just a challenging home project you want to pursue? seems to me you could save the existing manual splitter for your family/friends to use , then get a stand alone gas splitter (at least 25t). might be able to pick up a deal after holidays. best of luck

also, please be careful when testing your hyd project...stay clear of hoses, etc, hyd blowouts are extremely dangerous cheers

 

[shooterdon]

I realize this has nothing to do with your question but I get disgusted when I think back about all the time and money I spent on wood splitter rigs over the years. I would have been better off throwing more $$ at it from the beginning and gone with something like this:

No lifting required. It splits the wood on the ground and moves it to a pile as well.

Well out of your price range though.

What a stupid way to do it. Painful to watch. Go to about the 12:00 mark and see how he struggles getting a round lined up and split.

 

[WranglerX]

Just for clarity this is how a typical wood splitter hydraulic system is configured....

 

[LD1]

What a stupid way to do it. Painful to watch. Go to about the 12:00 mark and see how he struggles getting a round lined up and split.

I never liked that way of doing it unless it was mounted on an excavator.

When the whether is nice and the ground is dry, Im not wasting time splitting. Im cutting and hauling wood. When the ground is too soft to cut....I split. Last thing I would want to do is be driving the tractor or a skidloader over the same small patch of ground for hours at a time grabbing and splitting a single piece of wood at a time.

ONLY thing I would consider on the front of a tractor or skidloader for wood splitting is the ones that grab a whole log at a time...then cut and split. One of them firewood processors. Otherwise you are better off with a standalone splitter. If the pieces are too big to handle...either horizontal/vertical or one with a long lift.

 

[pycoed]

I know it does, just thinking out loud and wondering what I can do for minimal costs (and also retain either tractor or manual operation). I have a front third function and rear remotes. Seems worth a try to just plumb one of the remotes in place of one of the manual "pumps", but I'm not totally sure a single acting will work properly. The screw to release pressure will still be there on the jack. I believe it also serves as a relief valve.


As is, the splitter has no powered retraction, only some large springs. That has always been adequate.

I had the same manual splitter (Ebay second hand £12)& the same idea as you! The problem with using the jack with externally supplied hydraulic pressure is that there is no return path for the oil. In a jack the cylinder overflows (small hole near top of bore) into the external case which holds the oil supply. If you supply external oil, then you will rupture that case which is not designed to hold ANY pressure: it's just a reservoir.

I used a double acting cylinder I had lying around & purchased (£35 ish) a single spool valve. Then

a couple of spare hydraulic lines & bits of scrap plate & bolts etc to make some mountings & the pusher slide & for a total cost of less than £50 it was complete.

I use it in the bed of a Cushman Turf Truckster powered by the Cushman hydraulics. It works well for my needs: most of my logs come from hedgelaying so 9" dia would be the max. I have split some larger rings, but the Cushman hydraulics are a bit asthmatic for the bigger stuff. I did try it behind my Zetor 7045, but the Cushman is much handier to use around confined spaces

 

[mwemaxxowner]

I had the same manual splitter (Ebay second hand £12)& the same idea as you! The problem with using the jack with externally supplied hydraulic pressure is that there is no return path for the oil. In a jack the cylinder overflows (small hole near top of bore) into the external case which holds the oil supply. If you supply external oil, then you will rupture that case which is not designed to hold ANY pressure: it's just a reservoir.

I used a double acting cylinder I had lying around & purchased (£35 ish) a single spool valve. ThenView attachment 722163 a couple of spare hydraulic lines & bits of scrap plate & bolts etc to make some mountings & the pusher slide & for a total cost of less than £50 it was complete.

I use it in the bed of a Cushman Turf Truckster powered by the Cushman hydraulics. It works well for my needs: most of my logs come from hedgelaying so 9" dia would be the max. I have split some larger rings, but the Cushman hydraulics are a bit asthmatic for the bigger stuff. I did try it behind my Zetor 7045, but the Cushman is much handier to use around confined spaces

Thank you, and thank you for taking the time to give me explanations, rather than just say it won't work, or say it's going to blow your jack.

I knew (and was afraid that) blowing the jack was a possibility, but the reasons I thought it wouldn't are as follows.

As mentioned, the jack is designed for a 10k psi internal pressure. I believe there are check valves between the non pressurized reservoir in the body that holds excess fluid and the pressurized channels where work is going on. I thought if the check valves are for 10k psi, my 2k psi tractor is not going to force fluid into the jack body past those check valves. I was guessing that the tractor would push the piston until the log was split or the tractor went into relief, and when I retract the cylinder the fluid would flow back from the jack cylinder into the tractor. But I wasn't sure and I knew this could be the nail in the coffin.

I think I'll continue using it as is, until other, more pressing tractor expenses have been made, then revisit with with the intention of using a DA cylinder, as you did. I first did a quick Google and saw cylinders $300-500 and used that as my ballpark. After looking harder I'm seeing $150ish cylinders which are cheap enough to pursue.

I'm not sure I totally follow why it would be unsafe to use the levers on the tractor to operate the cylinder. If I mounted the splitter like this

and take into account where my remote valve levers are

I think if I stand as I am when I take this picture

, if the splitter where the log is is to the left near near the tractor, and I'm reaching to my right for the valve, all is well. I've never, not once, split wood with any company, but maybe that is the sole concern?

As to Big Bubba's question of why, it's a little bit of both. Now that I have the tractor, I have a goal of using it for as many things as possible. I have many things now that are made to be used by hand, standalone with its own power source, or with a lawnower or golf cart that I desire to get set up to use the tractor. I want the tractor to do as much work for me as possible, but I'm not made of money. I like to tinker also. I don't split enough wood to justify buying a splitter. Gas or 3ph and even the used prices I've seen so far. However, it's worth enough to me just for making my life easier when I DO need to use it to spend a few hundred on a cylinder and hoses (basically why I bought this tractor too. I don't NEED it.)

I appreciate when people give feedback (positive or negative) without being condescending. There is something to be said for someone who is in the research stages asking for insight and feedback instead of just doing it without seeking the wisdom of others. Don't beat us up and make us afraid to ask next time.

 

[LD1]

I see you are from the UK.

Not sure what the used market over there is like. But here....I could probably put you on half a dozen 3ph splitters in the $300 range within a 50 mile radius.

At one time....you could buy a new one for $600 all day long at places like TSC or rural king here in the states. Not sure if covid has changed that.

 

[mwemaxxowner]

They've gone up. I'm in SC, USA.

I'm also hoping to reduce the number of extra small engines I have. I have a 2 stroke auger I just put a carb in, and another 2 stroke auger that I can't start that I guess needs one. I have a generator and a pressure washer that I can't start, and need work. For things that get occasional use, if they can be tractor implements, that's what I hope for.

You can say, well you need to treat and store your small engines for long term storage better! And you'd be right! Lol, but here I am.

 

[LD1]

They've gone up. I'm in SC, USA. View attachment 722300

I'm also hoping to reduce the number of extra small engines I have. I have a 2 stroke auger I just put a carb in, and another 2 stroke auger that I can't start that I guess needs one. I have a generator and a pressure washer that I can't start, and need work. For things that get occasional use, if they can be tractor implements, that's what I hope for.

You can say, well you need to treat and store your small engines for long term storage better! And you'd be right! Lol, but here I am.

Those aren't 3ph splitters. I'm sure they went up...just don't know how much. Not in the market

 

[mwemaxxowner]

I don't see any 3ph splitters at TSC, but the cheapest 3ph splitter I see is $1000.

 

[IndyIan]

I realize this has nothing to do with your question but I get disgusted when I think back about all the time and money I spent on wood splitter rigs over the years. I would have been better off throwing more $$ at it from the beginning and gone with something like this:

No lifting required. It splits the wood on the ground and moves it to a pile as well.

Well out of your price range though.

For a little pile like that I think I would beat that quite easily with my splitting maul and my 372xp to cut the stubborn ones. If he had a trailer right there to spilt right into then it would start saving a bit of time and using a skid steer would be much quicker of course.