10Kw generator powered by JD332 garden tractor

[DanMc77]

My 6" pulley arrived and I put it on the generator. When I run the tractor engine at "full" throttle, I get 61 Hz with the Kill-a-watt plugged into the generator head. Remember, I tached the engine at 3220 rpm under no load at "full" throttle. So my throttle cable could be adjusted to get the engine up to it's rated 3600 rpm at "full" throttle, but this happens to be perfect. Now if I plug in the 2Hp compressor, it starts up just fine, even if there's pressure in the compressor. I also tried welding while the air compressor was running, and that worked fine too. At this point, I have no need for any more power than this. So this is perfect, I have 3 different operating points to run this: 3" pulley with engine running at a fast idle for small loads up to ~1500 watts. 4" pulley with engine running at mid-throttle for loads ~2500(?) watts. 6" pulley with engine running at full throttle for the heaviest loads. I can't really say with any accuracy what those "heaviest" loads are in terms of watts, but if I can weld while the generator is running the 2 hp air compressor, that's all I need.

Now as for engines running at full throttle: That's what tractors are designed for. I grew up on a farm and we would plow a field, or run an implement for days and days, and it was typically at full throttle the whole time. The tractor engines seemed to run forever and never showed any sign of wear. So in the case of this 332 with a 3 cyl Yanmar diesel, sure it's not a farm implement, but the diesel will still run for 1000's of hours. Maybe there's more wear at full throttle vs fast idle, but who knows? I prefer half-throttle mostly because it's quieter, the engine sounds "better" and it uses less fuel.

Now it's time to figure out a method for adding a bit of belt tension. Once that's done, a little bit of final cleanup and a few coats of paint.

 

[zzvyb6]

I would not use a spring loaded tensioner spring arm like what would be used on a mower deck because the bearings in those sheaves are questionable. Instead, I'd try to revamp your belt drive to use a tensioner from a modern car or truck, with the roller wheel on the back side of your belt. These devices are made to last a lot longer than the mower idler wheels.

 

[Tractor Seabee]

I would not use a spring loaded tensioner spring arm like what would be used on a mower deck because the bearings in those sheaves are questionable. Instead, I'd try to revamp your belt drive to use a tensioner from a modern car or truck, with the roller wheel on the back side of your belt. These devices are made to last a lot longer than the mower idler wheels.

ZZ is right on with that comment. Why not just have an adjustable bolted base for the generator and have 2 adjusting screws to keep belts tight. Have 3 bolt locations for the different sheave sizes. One less moving part to wear out. The belt sizes are broad enough that an idler would not cover the whole range. Just keep the 3 belts handy

Ron

 

[Industrial Toys]

I too, would hard bolt the belt tension. MAYBE, at certain loads, a spring tensioner could go into some resonance. You see it on mowers, a high rate of vibration on the tensioner.

 

[DanMc77]

Appreciate the input from everybody! Tractor Seebee has hit on what I have already done. The generator head is bolted to a wood base that is hinged on one end. The pulley end is then hanging on the belt. Up to now, the belt tension has been limited to the weight of the generator head (about 45 pounds). While testing, if I want more tension, I just put my foot on the generator.

I gave it some thought this weekend and here's the first approach I will try. I'll use the KISS approach. If I add a couple eye-bolts to the side rails, then I can simply take a ratchet-strap and run it from one bolt, over the top of the generator and down to the other bolt. I'll also add a spring in the middle there to add some compliance to the tension. I have it apart right now since I'm preparing to paint. Once I have it painted and back together, I'll post some pics.

Sometimes a project like this works, and maybe half the time they end up in the junk pile. Happily this is one project that goes into the "works" column. Posting it on this forum motivates me to push it to full completion, rather than getting it working "good enough" and then never completing the finishing touches. It's like door trim. I'm super bad with door trim. Once the door's in, and it opens/closes, putting on the trim can always be done when I get a "roundtuit". Roundtuits are hard to find at our place.

 

[Industrial Toys]

It's why I don't enjoy building stuff. It's too hit and miss for the work and often expense involved. I figure my time and energy is better spend finding and buying already built, well engineered stuff, cheap! Also, easier to sell.

 

[DanMc77]

It's why I don't enjoy building stuff. It's too hit and miss for the work and often expense involved. I figure my time and energy is better spend finding and buying already built, well engineered stuff, cheap! Also, easier to sell.

Yup, unless what you're looking for is either too expensive, or just not available.

 

[Industrial Toys]

Yup. That is true. Those are the only two things I like!

 

[snowmansimon]

Great post. I have been looking to build one to run off the rear PTO but cant source a cheap generator head in Canada.

As for running these little diesels. I work in a mining environment and we have numerous light towers on trailers powered by these little kubotas, yanmars, etc. These things get left running for days and days unattended. Everytime I am in the field I check the hour meters if there is one near by just for fun. I see some with 18000 hrs and 25000 hrs on them and counting. Yes 25000 and not 2500!

 

[DanMc77]

The final details on this generator mount have been completed, using two coats of black POR-15 paint and adding the belt tensioner. The first pic shows the mount just before painting. Once the black paint is on, it's hard to see the detail of how it's built. Using a ratchet strap with springs for belt tension works perfectly and is super easy to adjust. Simple and sweet.