i am wondering if there is any sort of correctly installed supports on the ends of pipes or were ever there might be a 45 to 90 or tee fitting.
water hammer effect. more noticeable in old homes, you turn on sink. and then shut the sink off. and pipes rattle within the home. another example hooking up a garden hose outside with a nozzle. and turn the nozzle wide open, and then you quickly release the nozzle. and the garden hose "shakes and surges". if the garden hose is kinda scattered in a bundle not really coiled up. you may see the garden hose almost look alive, as you release the handle on the nozzle. this would be water hammering effect.
once that water begins moving, it just like a train, it needs time to stop moving, and the force of the water stopping needs to be addressed. if not every time you use water. and then shut a valve (sink, toilet, shower, etc...) the pipe will take a beating itself and can pull itself apart. due to the pipes and fittings need to with stand the force of the water stopping and coming to a stand still.
inside diameter of pipe, length of pipe, GPM (gallons per minute), type of material pipe is made of, and how it was installed and supported. can make a large difference. along with if there is any sort of "water hammer" resister and placement of them.
check valve fittings most likely between water line outside and just before or after the meter, perhaps at the home itself if meter is at the road. a water hammer resister pending on placement of the check valve placement can be good or bad. in dealing with water hammering effect.
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examples of a water hammer resister....
a fitting with a spring, much like a hydrualic cylinder for a tractor. when you shut a valve, the pressure builds up and pushes on the spring to help "slow down" the water vs causing the water to suddenly stop.
a pipe extending straight up vertically, that has air in it. as the pressure builds up the air compresses, much like a spring compresses.
a well tank. much like the pipe vertically above, but generally has a rubber bladder in it (balloon). it can be smaller than what it would take for a straight pipe with an end cap on it.
expansion tanks for say a boiler, or in floor heating with fluid. smaller than a well tank. also help with water hammering effect pending on how they are installed and made.
i forget the terms used, for dealing with piping that is buried outside of home. and correct support of fittings (45, 90,s etc..) that cause a change in direction of the pipe / hose.
