14 Stall Barn Project 84ftx36ft

   / 14 Stall Barn Project 84ftx36ft #21  
Your barn construction appears to be a cross between a pole building and conventional stick frame looking at the second floor. Here is a picture of a typical purlin framed roof. In this case 2x6's standing on edge on the topside of the trusses. The white cover is the vapor side of insulation placed on top of the purlins to prevent condesation from the metal roof above.
 

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   / 14 Stall Barn Project 84ftx36ft #22  
AllWaysBreakinSomething said:
Hey Eddie, Purlins I think of wood that goes between studs,joices or trusses. But I think you mean slats nailed across the framing.

I've never heard of "slats" before, but from your discription, they sound like purlins. One of the advantages to metal siding and roofing is the lesser amount of lumber you need to frame it up. The method of framing is also totally different. What you did was conventional house framing. From what I can see in the pictures, you did a fantastic job of it too!!!

It's just interesting that you did it this way. Here are a few pics of my roof when I was building it. Notice the spacing of my trusses and the purlins to attach the metal to them.

I've heard that 1x material is too thin, and not code, for roofing and siding in some parts of the country. From what I've heard, it will not hold your screws over time and is prone to failure in high winds. I don't know this for a fact, but before I used it, I would ask around. Especially with your supplier.

Be sure to use the best quality screws you can find. Not all metal to wood fasteners are the same. Failure usually starts with the rubber gaskets. Cheap ones break, crack and split on you really fast. Don't over tighten them. As soon as you see the rubber start to compress, stop.

There has been a few threads about where to put your screws. I always put them in the flats where you have solid contact with the wood. Some people said that they put them on the peaks to keep the water away from the screws. After some discussion, both versions were found to be recomeneded by different manufacturers. I prefer the metal to be as tight as possible, so I'll continue to fasten it to through the flats.

You'll also hear allot of stories about metal buildings that "sweat." This is really just condensation that forms on the bottom of metal roofing. Then it drops water to the floor as it builds up. This is caused by the lack of air flow in uninsulated buildings. You can never have too much venting!!!!

If you've never been on a metal roof, they are slipery. I wear white soled sneekers. Those seem to have the very best traction. Also be sure to keep them clean. Just a little bit of dirt on the bottoms of your shoes will make you slip and fall.

Good luck and be careful,
Eddie
 

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   / 14 Stall Barn Project 84ftx36ft #23  
Very nice building & yours too Eddy. I think I am going to have to build another Barn my self.
 
   / 14 Stall Barn Project 84ftx36ft
  • Thread Starter
#24  
Hankus, In the Carolina's I haven't seen 2x6's on edge before. I suppose up North with a foot of snow that would be really strong. Yes I built the loft walls like stick framing. I wanted the walls to support the weight of hay leaning against them since I was going to use metal to cover the outside. Since the wall was only 6ft it wasn't that expensive. Also it supports the trusses really good.

The roof system is a a bit overkill as they are 16" on center but I didn't use a full truss on the lower 16ft. Basically spans 16 ft from outer wall the center post. This is what made me decide to make them 16" on center. We do get an occasional snow 2-6" so I didn't want them to sag. Or worst break.
 
   / 14 Stall Barn Project 84ftx36ft
  • Thread Starter
#25  
EddieWalker said:
I've never heard of "slats" before, but from your discription, they sound like purlins. One of the advantages to metal siding and roofing is the lesser amount of lumber you need to frame it up. The method of framing is also totally different. What you did was conventional house framing. From what I can see in the pictures, you did a fantastic job of it too!!!

It's just interesting that you did it this way. Here are a few pics of my roof when I was building it. Notice the spacing of my trusses and the purlins to attach the metal to them.

I've heard that 1x material is too thin, and not code, for roofing and siding in some parts of the country. From what I've heard, it will not hold your screws over time and is prone to failure in high winds. I don't know this for a fact, but before I used it, I would ask around. Especially with your supplier.

Be sure to use the best quality screws you can find. Not all metal to wood fasteners are the same. Failure usually starts with the rubber gaskets. Cheap ones break, crack and split on you really fast. Don't over tighten them. As soon as you see the rubber start to compress, stop.

There has been a few threads about where to put your screws. I always put them in the flats where you have solid contact with the wood. Some people said that they put them on the peaks to keep the water away from the screws. After some discussion, both versions were found to be recomeneded by different manufacturers. I prefer the metal to be as tight as possible, so I'll continue to fasten it to through the flats.

You'll also hear allot of stories about metal buildings that "sweat." This is really just condensation that forms on the bottom of metal roofing. Then it drops water to the floor as it builds up. This is caused by the lack of air flow in uninsulated buildings. You can never have too much venting!!!!

If you've never been on a metal roof, they are slipery. I wear white soled sneekers. Those seem to have the very best traction. Also be sure to keep them clean. Just a little bit of dirt on the bottoms of your shoes will make you slip and fall.

Good luck and be careful,
Eddie

Eddie.. Just when I thought I had the terminology worked out we learn something different.:D I guess slats are really common in NC. They are usually 1x4 or 1x6's over the truss 2' apart. I like the 16" on center for this thin board as it's really strong and easy to walk on. I'm using 26 guage imperial rib (American Building Components Products: Imperial Rib Metal Panel). The screws look good as the washer seems to be more than just rubber. It seems to have fiber in it and they are painted but I do wish they were cheaper. ($150 box) I also put the screws in the flats as I like the good contact it makes.

I didn't get as far this weekend as I hoped. I didn't get home with the hay until late Saturday. The hay ended up costing me $7.85 bale for Burmuda Alecia square bales.:eek: Anyways I was able to get 1/4 of the roof metal on. Just enought to cover the bales. I do think I'm going to need a new cordless drill. Pics tomorrow of the progress.
 
   / 14 Stall Barn Project 84ftx36ft #26  
AllWaysBreakinSomething said:
Hankus, In the Carolina's I haven't seen 2x6's on edge before. I suppose up North with a foot of snow that would be really strong. ..........

I'm guessing the 10' span between poles and trusses was one reason the builder placed the 2x6's on edge. In addition each purlin is a 14' in length, and overlaps each other by 4', at the double trusses. The purlins are spaced 2' apart except where they approach the peak of the roof. A friend of mine just had a 30x60' shop built by a different contractor but his roof is identical to mine in construction. As you can see from the picture I posted and also what Eddie mentioned the amount of framing materials required for metal siding and roofing is normally less.
 
   / 14 Stall Barn Project 84ftx36ft
  • Thread Starter
#27  
Here are some updated photos of the perlins/slats installed with some metal completed. I also included some photos of the overhang which is notched and tied into a truss inside the barn. Really strong. I can stand my 230lbs on the edge of a 2ft overhang. It was really worth the extra time and 2x6's

Also notice there is hay in the unfinished barn. It will be out of the way here but this gives you an idea of how urgent it is to get your hay in the barn since it has been so dry here. As I mentioned in previous post I had to drive to GA to get hay from NC this past weekend.:eek:

As for wide spans. I could have raised the roof higher and used preformed trusses but I wanted to reduce cost. The ruff cut lumber was cheaper than renting a crane and buying prebuilt trusses. Although there was more muscle involved. ;)

Eddie.. I posted a pic of the metal and screw. I hope they are good screws:rolleyes:
 

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   / 14 Stall Barn Project 84ftx36ft #28  
AllWaysBreakinSomething said:
Here are some updated photos of the perlins/slats installed with some metal completed. I also included some photos of the overhang which is notched and tied into a truss inside the barn. Really strong. I can stand my 230lbs on the edge of a 2ft overhang. It was really worth the extra time and 2x6's

Also notice there is hay in the unfinished barn. It will be out of the way here but this gives you an idea of how urgent it is to get your hay in the barn since it has been so dry here. As I mentioned in previous post I had to drive to GA to get hay from NC this past weekend.:eek:

As for wide spans. I could have raised the roof higher and used preformed trusses but I wanted to reduce cost. The ruff cut lumber was cheaper than renting a crane and buying prebuilt trusses. Although there was more muscle involved. ;)

Eddie.. I posted a pic of the metal and screw. I hope they are good screws:rolleyes:


I love it! That looks like something I'd have to do, roofing the section with hay in it. But if I did it we'd probably be looking at a tarp hanging over that area. That shed is really going to be something. Great work!
 
   / 14 Stall Barn Project 84ftx36ft #30  
AllWaysBreakinSomething said:
The screws look good as the washer seems to be more than just rubber. It seems to have fiber in it and they are painted but I do wish they were cheaper. ($150 box)
1" screws may have been cheaper than those 1 1/2" ones and still long enough to go all the way through the 1X4s.
 

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