1403 tiller

[shovelrider]

Just picked this up today. Had him put it on a tractor and apply pto, everything was quite and seemed tight. Yanmar 1403 tiller w/ extra tines $600, doesn't have the whls. for rear. The ground i have is a sandy soil until 18", then clay. My question is, do i go ahead and use GL-4 /5--80-90 wt gear lube or not? And is ther a download i can get on this 5' tiller ? Also, will it be ok just to take the xtra weight off tiller. The sq. tubing and the tilt part of it, it'll make it lighter + i would rather just use my positional arm on r.s. of seat for lowering. Any problems with these? Thanx for your advise and help.

 

[winston1]

Pretty sure that is a chain drive model. No guru but I would use the gear oil you show. You might want to leave the rear on there for rear chute adjustment, don't think all that weighs very much.

 

[California]

You did good!

As Winston said, I would leave the rear structure in place. It provides some downforce on the rear flap, which assists in levelling behind where you tilled.

Yanmar's similar tillers specify GL-4 gear lube, 85w90 etc, so I would use that. Also, drain out a sample to see if there is water below the existing oil. It's very likely since these were used in rice paddies.

Did you get the special top link assembly with it? That is needed so it won't hit the tires when lifted.

 

[3gunr]

I have the same tiller in 6 ft, when i bought it it had all the rear wheel parts removed. It sat around for a few yrs because i also have a 5 ft buhler tiller . Last yr i got a new slip clutch drive shaft for it and tilled about 3 acres of food plots with it . I was amazed at how well it tilled. I think you will like it. good luck and enjoy.

 

[shovelrider]

Never thought about xtra weight, thanx. I use a lot of gl-4 /5 in utvs, so have plenty in cabnit. That's all i got, if it's not to complicated and had pic or measurements, i might could make. Mainly bought for garden and to help knock down some high spots on property. In pics you'll see i'm missing spring / pin, will try napa for replacement.

Ok, i see what your talking about. Just looked at pic of your set-up in another post you commented on. You don't think a standard link will work, or will it be too long? Thanx again

 

[California]

A standard 3 point top link will swing the tiller up and into your tires, unless maybe a 1700 has smaller tires than whatever that tiller was designed for. (RS1400 matches YM2000, per an explicit decal on RS1400).

The special tiller top link is a fixed 'bridge' then a much shorter link, resulting in the tiller top swinging outward as it is raised. But try what you have.

 

[careyo63]

Never used one of them before..:laughing: This is a Gear drive 1400 but IMO. your tines are in pretty bad shape. Missing a few on it? But you did good. It won't be long and your see and use new ones then your understand what I'm saying. Mine worked really good. I was assured like I mentioned before and was told to me by a Fredricks dealer that I won't need the wheels. Which was true for my use. This is the results your get with new tines.

 

[California]

...You don't think a standard link will work, or will it be too long?

There are photos of that special top link set, over on the other thread about tillers in the Yanmar forum:
https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/yanmar/410395-just-bought-rsb1301-tiller-any.html#post5384233

You might get lucky and not need that.

 

[shovelrider]

Thanks, and i see by your other pix the bracket for short top link. That if i had the measurement i can make one, then again i might be able to either cut an older std. top link? Yeah, i like the way that looks(nice and smooth / level. Thanx

 

[careyo63]

Best I can do. Someone else made it and why I had it. Doesn't have to look the same. Just close to the Lengths. I would believe the top link is the same as the 1403. The swing arm is what's adjustable. I had to cut shorten mine to get it to work correctly. But it' pretty much as short as it gets in the Pic. but then gets longer.

 

[California]

Just to clear up a different potential point of confusion - in addition to this tiller that is nearly 'universal 3-point' style, there was a different type of 2-point Yanmar tiller mount that was semi-permanent, the tiller bolted right to the tractor. The tractors that arrived with those, needed a 3-point kit added to make those tractors standard 3-point.

Occasionally those odd 2-point Yanmar tillers appear on Craigslist, generally with an ugly hack adaptation to modify them to 3-point configuration. As I recall I've seen small Yanmars - YM1300 etc - up to YM1500, on Craigslist with that integral tiller attached but not larger Yanmars. My point is if you ever see a really odd Yanmar tiller or tiller/tractor combo, its likely the integral 2-point permanent-mount version. I wouldn't buy the combo unless the tractor was dedicated to contract tilling, or maybe after discounting the price to allow for buying a 3-point conversion kit for the tractor.


Edit, added: A Google search bought up a TBN thread with good photos: Yanmar Tiller 2 point to 3 point conversion There's even a Youtube video of the conversion and then the tiller in use.




Edit some more: I finally found a photo of an original 2-point tractor/tiller combination.
https://www.picclickimg.com/d/l400/...r-4wd-compact-mini-tractor-with-rotavator.jpg


And another point related to every tiller photo (with wheels) that I've seen: The diagram decal on RS1400 shows the 'leg' that goes down to the wheel axle should be installed outward. It is the first thing that will scrape an adjacent tree, instead of the wheel being the outermost point. I tried both ways and found the wheel won't track properly if it is outward, making a turn tends to bind the wheel sideways instead of tracking properly. Trust the diagram and mount the wheel inward.....

 

[careyo63]

It took some doing to get The Tiller setup right on mine even. Had to cut and shorten the PTO. Shaft and even the top Link. Took a few days for them to get me another or correct one. Until then I had to shorten the female side of the shaft and used that as a coupling. I was able to use it On the male side to weld and attach the shaft back together. After shortening it. You can see the difference. The busiest days of the Yr. at work so I basically had to do it. When Fredricks said they won't need it back It was done. So can I say for sure my setup or top link is even for a YM2000 and a RS.1400 No!! But it work Fantastic..........

 

[3gunr]

I bolted on plates that allowed me to move the lower hitch pins out about 4 inches. The drive shaft that came with it was to short so i bought a new slip clutch shaft , it tills great now.

 

[shovelrider]

Don't know yet rather the driveshaft is too long or short yet, been raining like a cow pissin on a flat rock around here. But i think w/ a old top link i have and some channel iron, i can make it work. The most important thing to me is that all bearings,seals, etc are all either new or great shape. Thanx again and i say a prayer for our soldiers and children today.

 

[shovelrider]

Filled both side and top gear boxes, and checked bearing at the end of shaft. Can see where a new race/ bearing had been installed. The seller had it hooked up to his M.F., and it didn't make a sound and seamed to turn ok. But i think i spent about 400$ too much. The flange on the shaft closes to side gear box, is screwed up. Didn't take side cover off yet, thought i'd try an fit it up to tractor 1st. But have to fix flange now. Not going to weld flanges bc of, if it hits a root or something, it won't be pretty. And thanx for all the links for parts etc..

 

[California]

You could laminate a second layer onto that flange, use longer bolts, and be back in business.

You might want to add a slip clutch in the driveshaft, too.

 

[careyo63]

Your going to need tines. New ones are only like 7.00$ each at Hoye. They actually have an angle at the ends L.and R.. When they're straight and pointed the tiller has a Bunch of time on it. But it's all there intact so get the flange taken care of and new tines and your looking to be in good shape. Fredricks has the tines also TT-510 and TT-520. Hoye shows a picture of one and your see just how much is worn off. But Fredricks gives you a better Dia. of the shape. Then your see how much is worn off. Huge amount!!! But Man they work really good when you get it setup correctly.:thumbsup:

 

[shovelrider]

yes sir, thought about that after post. And i do have slip clutch on tractor already. Easy to get to in order to tack/weld a thicker pc w/ right size hole for bolt and thin nut, so it don't hit the bearing side of gear box(as seen in pix, they stuck a lug nut on as reg. nut) Will check Hoye later today. Thank guys.

 

[shovelrider]

Installed tiller, just to see how far back i need to make lower arms brackets(tiller side). As is, when lowered, it's about 2-3" from tire. Raised, it's about 2" from tire.

 

[duanew1]

It looks to me that the special top link is more for keeping the driveshaft aligned than touching the tires.