1510 D Upper lift arm broke

[MJPetersen]

Mike
That is a very nice basic trailer for your purposes. I wondered why you did not weld 2 uprights to your front crossbar to help hold the logs and make loading easier.

I was going to put some uprights there for that purpose, but I have a picture in my mind that I would like to make the little trailer more versatile similar to the Nova Jack trailers with removable uprights. I thought about welding something on temporarily like the uprights protecting the wheels, but decided not to for now. I want to put a hand winch, a boom, the uprights and a dump box. We will see how much of it gets made in the near future.

Mike

 

[tallyho8]

You could just use a 2" piece of channel like your front crossmember is made of and weld it on sideways to the end of your crossmember and notch a 2x4 to go in it. Quick, easy, and removable.

 

[Roonabeck]

My 1510's right upper lift arm was welded when I got it 3.5 years ago. Someone did a nice job on it, no reinforcement, and it's not very noticeable. I've been going to replace it sometime, but it's held up fine against my finish mower and box of rocks (loader counterweight) for this long, so maybe not.

 

[MJPetersen]

Talley, That is a good idea. I was thinking in terms of metal and I do not have any material that I have found in my collection that would be appropriate. I will have to go look at my collection again with a different perspective.

Roonabeck, Mine broke in the exact same place on the left side. The guy that welded it up for me did a very good job, but he was not confident in it so he went the extra and put a piece on top and another on the bottom. Each piece is 10 mm thick (between 3/8 and 7/16) so it should be super strong. I did order another one because for me it would be hard to get and I continually am working the 3 pt against the relief.

Mike

 

[Smoody]

MJ, just curious as to why you haven't upgraded to a larger Yanmar? If you are always pushing the 3point to its limits, you may could benefit from a larger tractor.

 

[MJPetersen]

MJ, just curious as to why you haven't upgraded to a larger Yanmar? If you are always pushing the 3point to its limits, you may could benefit from a larger tractor.

I really do not want a larger tractor--Even working in the forest and along the trails a bigger tractor just would not work--I do not really have room for a larger tractor.

I am going to get a gauge and check the pressure on the 3 pt. The relief may be set too low. There are times that I definitely benefit from a larger tractor, but there are other times when a larger tractor just would not work. So I use the smaller tractor for all needs.

I considered a 1610 D, that is for sale here in Poland for a reasonable price, but the 1610 is about 40 cm (16 inches) longer and that would be a severe handicap in maneuverability in tight spots.

Mike

 

[California]

When you gather firewood are you going into the forest, greenbelt, via foot-paths?

Then a tractor this size makes sense. It's nearly as maneuverable in tight spaces as a horse.

 

[MJPetersen]

That is it exactly California--It is a greenbelt along a creek that only has foot paths--and sometimes not even that. : I really need the narrow width and ability to weave around trees. In my case one-size must fit all.

Mike

 

[MJPetersen]

I thought I would update the thread. I got the new lift arms that I ordered from LMTC--Wayne is a good guy to deal with. I had a friend coming over from the States and he brought the arms with him. I expected beefier arms, but this was surprising in the difference between the old and new. What a contrast!

They are so much thicker than the old that the original rototiller lift did not fit well at all (I had to spread the sides of the top bracket of the lift links.) I believe that it is time to modify the links so that they fit on a standard lift pin on the arm.

So all is well and we're back up and running.

Mike

 

[normde2001]

I'm a little/lot confused about what didn't fit. Don't you just have to bolt the pins to the upper arms, slip on the lift links and secure with a clevis? The only brackets/yokes on the links should be at the bottom.