1510 D Upper lift arm broke

   / 1510 D Upper lift arm broke #21  
The only brackets/yokes on the links should be at the bottom

Some of the tillers use little clevises instead of the pins.


Aaron
Hoye Tractor Parts
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   / 1510 D Upper lift arm broke #22  
Some of the tillers use little clevises instead of the pins.


Aaron
Hoye Tractor Parts
Contact Us
(940)592-0181

If you mean instead of the pins that normally bolt onto the upper lift arms, I guess I have never seen that set up.
 
Last edited:
   / 1510 D Upper lift arm broke
  • Thread Starter
#24  
Sorry Norm for the confusion. Thanks Aaron for posting the picture. That is exactly what I have and the clevis at the top is too narrow for the new lift arms. I am going to have to a. widen the clevis or b. make a different method to attach the lift link.

The worst thing about switching from 3 pt implements to the 2 pt tiller is having to remove the lift pins on the lift arms. Therefore, I want to modify the link, but have not thought how I might do that yet. I have already tilled the garden for winter, so unless I get a job where the tiller is needed, I can wait until spring.:eek:

Aaron, what do some tillers use if they do not have the clevis at the top?

Mike
 
   / 1510 D Upper lift arm broke #25  
Yup, now I understand. Since those top pins are generally considered part of the tractor, I didn't realize they hooked up that way, (actually have never seen a 2pt tiller).
 
   / 1510 D Upper lift arm broke #26  
Thanks for the pics. and clarifing how a 2 point tiller is setup. I'm with Norm in not sure I have even seen a 2 point setup. You never know may come in handy someday. Seems I learn something new every time I visit this Forum.:D

Carey
 
   / 1510 D Upper lift arm broke #27  
   / 1510 D Upper lift arm broke
  • Thread Starter
#28  
Thanks Aaron. I do wish all a very happy thanksgiving!! Since it is NOT a holiday here we just have our own mini celebration!! Kids still have school and normal activities continue, but turkey and apple pie were on our table today!

I knew about 3 pt hook ups, but what about 2 pt that do not have clevises? Do they exist? I am thinking about a ball joint like on the 3pt, but the pin at the bottom would not allow side movement to go over the end of a pin. have to give it some more thought.

Mike
 
   / 1510 D Upper lift arm broke #29  
I think all of the 2pt tillers use the clevis. I guess you could either cut a few inches out of a standard side link (otherwise I think they would be way too long)& weld it back up or cut the "eyeball" off of a standard side link & weld it to your tiller's links.

The 3rd option, which would be my choice since I personally don't like the 2pt tillers, would be to just weld something like this-

http://www.ironmanfabrication.net/Draw_Bar_adv.jpg

to your tiller & use it like a 3 point tiller. You'd have to get a longer driveshaft but those are available everywhere.

Aaron
Hoye Tractor Parts
Contact Us
(940)592-0181
 
   / 1510 D Upper lift arm broke #30  
I really do not know how much it weighed, but I can say that the front wheels were just off the ground and the lift had maxed out with the relief squealing. Therefore, it was at the max. Plus I was backing up in a tight place and I think that put the extra strain on everything. I often max the lift out and run in the relief range. (I need to get a gauge, to measure the pressure of the relief.)

No ROPS? "Providentially hindered" by the breaking of your lift arm is the term that comes to my mind followed by "Praise God."
 

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