1725 4x4 front end issue help

[xtriggerman]

So this tractor is up on a near by auction and I need to find out as much info on this issue as I can to see if I want to roll the dice on it. Here is all I know right now other than it runs perfectly in a vid in I'm guessing 2wd. So its likely the "front end locks up" is talking about the 4wd engaged front axle or transfer case issue? friday is inspection day so any inside hints on what to try or look at to isolate the issue would be a huge help. I dont mind doing gear work on the front axle but if its a split the tractor to yoke out the transfer case (non hydro) I think I'll pass on it. This old tractot is the ideal size I'v been keeping a look out for. No states hours in the info but starts right up with no smoke and the driver chirped the tires moving into 2nd. so the dry clutch should be tight.

• Runs & Operates
• Front End Locks Up
• Will Need New battery
• Tractor# G009686
• Engine# 57874

It comes with a 5' woods front bucket but its off. The tires have about 20 percent tread on them so its not a garage queen. Thoughts?

 

[Harry in Ky]

The term "front end locks up" is almost as common as "tractor won't start" and the reasons (and specifics) for each can vary greatly.

If it rolls properly without 4WD engaged that's a good sign (assuming that actually is the case). Bear in mind that when the tractor is rolling all the shafts and gears are turning whether 4WD is engaged or not. The only difference is the front and rear drives are not connected. Typically with front axle problems most people start by raising the front wheels off the ground, rotating front wheels by hand and observe what happens. In theory if one front tire rotates forward the opposite side will rotate backwards. No jerking, popping, hesitation, funny noises, ETC. Doing this only one front wheel off the ground, with 4WD engaged and disengaged can also help narrow down certain problems. Whether or not you do any of this on the auction grounds or not is in question.

 

[xtriggerman]

Thank you Harry, That makes alot of sense. If the bids are still reasonable by friday, I may bring a floor jack to check out the drive gear to shaft connection just as you suggested. The guys there are good about letting folks run the equipment on viewing day. Time to time these various imports have a flawed component that breaks so often, replacing it is near impossible. Im not seeing that on my net search as far as anything drive gear at this point. Iv got an Italian NH 555E thats about as bullet proof as it gets. I hope thats the same rep for these Shibaura built tractors.

 

[rScotty]

I agree with Harry on the axle tests. And will add that it is common for a axle needing repair to leak a lot of oil ouit by the one or both wheels. So look at the inner surface of the front wheel and tires. My guess is it is the front axle, but just how bad is it? They can be anwhere from easy to unrepairable...although I have often wondered if a clever mechanic could put one back together as a 2wd axle.

At the worst, maybe you could find a junkyard 1725 2wd front axle and still have a decent tractor, That would buy time. If you can find one...... Otherwise an axle can be a long project. You must be a pretty good mechanic to be willing to do a front axle, so not much I can help you with there.
I like those old Fords. Nice engine, nice loader - be sure to get the FEL bucket with it. If I were bidding on it, it would be with the idea that it might end up being a 2wd. Nothing wrong with that if the tractor is priced low enough.

Maybe I can add a few more things to think about tomorrow.

First thought is that with 20% tread and a nice Woods loader that tractror has probably seen a lot of 4wd use. We know that hard full time 4wd use leads to front axle repairs and sometimes to front driveshaft repairs, but rarely do we hear about transmission repairs. Especially on old style sliding gear manual shifters.

As for transfer cases, I am not at all sure that 1725 tractor even has a transfer case. What makes you think it does?
I looked at the exploded diagram on Messicks.com and don't see a typical automotive transfer case. Maybe I missed it. Look for yourself. Here's a link. BTW, Messicks has all the 1725 parts books online.

https://www.messicks.com/catalogs/new-holland/1725-3-cyl-compact-tractor-10-96-09-98/03-transmission/07h01-07h01-pto-gears

Now take what I say with a grain of sat, because I have NOT worked on that particular Ford. But have on earlier ones, and most manual shift japanese tractors from that era are pretty similar to each other. I just do not recall one that has a complex transfer case. Why do you think it does....or is it more about not wanting to split the tractor?

Instead of a transfer case with offset shafts and reduction gears, compact tractors tend to have a simple splined sleeve-joint collar that slides on a shifter shaft when you move the 4wd lever. The 4wd lever moves the splined collar back and forth to engage the front drive shaft to the forward end of the transmission main shaft. It's pretty simple design. Hardly ever gives a problem.

At the auction, you should check the 4wd engagement lever. Put the tractor in gear, rock it back and forth while trying to move the 4wd lever. You are looking to see if the 4wd lever seems to be connected to something internally. If so that's good. In fact, even if the lever won't move that internal collar, that is still OK - because it probably just means the internal 4wd collar's shifting splines are not lined up.
What you don't want is a 4wd lever that is totally loose & feels so disconnected that it's not doing anything at all. And even so, fixing a 4wd shifter problem is no more work than a front axle repair, and probably cheaper.
Luck,
rScotty