1958 641 w/3 speed transmission and Sherman over/under unit

   / 1958 641 w/3 speed transmission and Sherman over/under unit #71  
i've seen some from different suppliers, but I havn't seen an economy and premium cap from the same supplier.
 
   / 1958 641 w/3 speed transmission and Sherman over/under unit
  • Thread Starter
#72  
Right on.
 
   / 1958 641 w/3 speed transmission and Sherman over/under unit
  • Thread Starter
#73  
Well, been a few months so looking back I figure it's time for an update huh?

Tractor is Home, tried plowing with it this past Winter but man even with loaded tires and chains on, downhill blacktop driveway just wasn't giving up the gription (yup, I said gription, lol) to have any fun pushing snow around. Spent too much time shoveling snow to get the tractor un-stuck. Plow is now for sale, hoping to never have a need for it again!

Finally got the itch to try out the Sherman O/U unit, but dang if I could get it to move into any position other than the one it was in (as it turns out, normal - out and back) and neutral. I could get the lever to move in and out, but not into the underdrive position or the overdrive position.

Stumped, I tapped Kirk on the shoulder and man did he come through with some good advice. Pulled the lever off, sprayed some Kroil in alongside the shaft, reinstalled the lever and worked it back and forth and all of a sudden it dropped forward into underdrive.

Not a big deal for y'all I'm sure, but man I was pretty psyched! Couldn't get it to pull back into overdrive though, that is until I tried pulling it back while the engine was idling slow then through a little grind it popped right in.

So now after puttering around a little in those ranges it drops right into all three. Guess it was just left in that normal range for so many years with the O/U not being used, that things just kinda got stuck.

"Use it or lose it", Grandma used to say... Lol

Thanks again, Kirk.

Replaced cap rotor and wires last week, kept the old Motorcraft-branded stuff set aside though, as it looked almost as good as what I replaced it all with new. Still have to get those blue streak points and condensor, SouNdguy, but now I'm kinda on the fence about that Pertronix unit. What's y'alls take on that thing?

Rear tires are loaded and the somewhat dry-rotted sidewalls don't seem to like the weight of the bush hog hanging back there when up in the air. Just doesn't look like there's enough pressure in 'em. Wanting to swap out those 4.00-19's up front for 6.00-16's, and the 12.4-28's for 13.6's or 14.9's so maybe it's time to bite the bullet and just get a complete set of new wheels/rims and hoops all around.

Won't go calcium in the rear with the new, just don't like the rot after awhile as aggressive as that stuff is.

Engine has a pretty loud tap tap tap at low rpm's, like the sound a stuck or flat hyd. lifter makes in a car engine. Sound goes away immediately after increasing the rpms a little. Otherwise, runs real good.

Bush hog has a rip where it looks like the blades must've sliced up through for some reason, attached a pic to show what I'm talking about.

Will head into town next sunny day next week to have the local weld shop stitch it up and weld a plate over top. Any common reason for that damage to happen?

Want to change the bush hog gearbox oil too while I'm looking at maintenance, what should I use? It's a 90-I mower.

I guess I'll lean on Miller Tire for new rubber, and I know they sell wheels/rims too but is there a source for better quality ones I should look to?

All in all I've enjoyed just picking at this old girl when I can. Now that the plow is off the front, I'd like to find an OEM bumper to put up there. Aside from that, going through the wiring and getting the lights to work will probably be the next thing while figuring out who to turn to for front wheels and rear rims.

Click on pics to expand. Enjoy!


09I Bush hog.JPG

IMG_1218.JPG
 
   / 1958 641 w/3 speed transmission and Sherman over/under unit #74  
deck should be easy to weldd up, just make sure that the blade and or hub play has been corrected.

Generically in mower gear boxes.. I like 85-140

You can still pressurize your rear tractor tires with air even if loaded. remember, a rear tire that is SLIGHTLY bulged is actually better traction than one that is straight and rounded tread where only 70% of the tread is down. Ever see mudders stop before playing after they drive to a pit, and then deflate their tires a little? it's for increased traction.

As for points vs EI.. that's your call. Make sure your 12v charge system is perfect before doing changes, and if changing, I reccomend doing the wire harness FIRST, get that in place and working before doing the EI. Too many changes at once, and if you have a problem, it is harder to chase. Lastly, If you do go EI, save that breaker plate in a ziplock. WHEN the EI craps out.. 5 minutes with a screwdriver and wire cutter and you can be working again.

On the tap tap.. your machine has solid, not hyd lifters, but you MIGHT have an out of adjustment valve. Easy enough to check. Check warm. And remember.. a very slightly LOOSE valve is way way better than a tight one. A tight one will burn thru leakage erosion. There are other sources for tapping like vibration sounds at ow rpm.. mainly the multi piece hood. make sure that and any anti rattlers are in place.
 
   / 1958 641 w/3 speed transmission and Sherman over/under unit
  • Thread Starter
#75  
Thanks SouNdguy.

Drained all of about a half a cup of old oil out of that gearbox, lol. Went to grab a fresh bottle of the 85-140 but something drew my attention to the bottle of Lucas Hub Oil right next to it. A little thicker than the gear oil, but not thick and tacky like bar oil.

Ended up with the hub oil, poured the whole bottle in.

Aired up the tires to about 12 PSI which left a respectable bulge but eliminated the wrinkle. Gosh when that mower is up in the air those tires wrinkled something fierce while I was driving it, had to laugh as it reminded me of the drag slicks on the old rails the way they wrinkle too.

Before putting air in there was no measurable air pressure.

Welder waived me off this morning due to rain, so in turn I called off that mowing job which gave me time to tinker around with other things.

Good suggestion on keeping a set of spare points. I do that with one of my Shovelheads, the one that has a Dyna electronic ignition unit.

Valve adjustment is definitely in my future though as the sound it's making is a definite tap like someone rapping on the engine with a ball pein hammer - but only when at a low idle. One more thing fighting for room on my list, hahaha
 
   / 1958 641 w/3 speed transmission and Sherman over/under unit
  • Thread Starter
#76  

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