Walker1
Bronze Member
As usual, looks great!
1963 Case 530CK Backhoe/Loader
- Thread starter stans1
- Start date
- Views: 221444
OP
stans1
Silver Member
OK, I'm back again, sorry for the big lag in my progress report. I have had several things to take address in those months (like replacing the compressor in our refrigerator among other things) and of course I ran into quite a few problems with the backhoe portion of this restore. I guess a hoe get such heavy and abusive exercise, that there were no bushings or pins that had not been absolutely worn out in the hoe frame, tower, swing, boom, crowd, and bucket areas. I've come along pretty good and have a lot more pictures as well as descriptions to share. So, here goes:
This first picture is of one of the bushings that will press into the swing cylinder trunnion bore. Each cylinder had one that fits in the top and one for the bottom. I tried turning one at a time and found that it was easier and faster to make them as a pair, so this one is just a practice bushing. By machining the bushings in pairs, it allowed me to hold onto one end in the chuck for turning both ID and OD and I didn't have to continually pull the part out of the lathe chuck and turn it end for end.
Here are both trunnion caps and I took the time to dress both the flange and then the pin ends to take out the egg shape that had occurred from the years of wear and probably lack of grease. If you look closely at the ends of the pins that I trued up you can see the flame or induction hardened grain that extends in about an 1/8" from the surface. All of the pins were a different finished diameter, because I only removed as much metal as it took to make the pin diameter round again and they were all worn (tops and bottoms). The dark colored stock seen in the upper right is the DOM steel that I have been using for my bushings. It's a lot easier to buy a foot or two of DOM and turn it down to the final size than it is to buy solid bar and bore and turn it down. This DOM is 1020 carbon steel and I think it will just do fine!
Just checking fit. I have found that turning a bushing 1 to 2 thousandths over the actual bore that it will be pressed into works well. And I use a boring bar to cut the inside diameter 2-3 of thousandth over the pin size, so by the time you press it in you still have room for grease and rotational movement between pin and bushing.
Here is a shot of the boring operation and I always start with the smallest ID. I can enlarge the one on the opposite end as needed. You can see the marks on the boring bar shaft and when those are aligned with the end of the part that tells me when to stop the cut.
Not very scientific, but I've found, at least for me, that holding a sharpie to mark the approximate diameter that I'm shooting for saves a bunch of time when removing a lot of stock and then I do my final measurements with an inside micrometer. And since I try to always make my marks just a little shy of the final cut, a person can cut up to that mark and still be good to go.
On this shot, you can see the parting tool that's used to separate the two bushings from a common piece of stock. Most of my machining is done dry, using carbide but when grooving or parting you need to use cutting oil. I just use high sulfur, the same used in cutting thread on pipe, it lubricates real well.
Just a little chamfer inside and out and all that's left is to take it over to my band saw to complete the cut at the parting groove, then chuck it back up to do a final facing and chamfer on the cut end.
Here's the finished cap and pin with the gland nut directly above and to the right is the cylinder trunnion with the newly turned bushing pressed in, and just tipped up on it's edge is the new shim that I turned. If you look closely you can see that the bushing extends out of the trunnion boss by almost an 1/8 of a inch. That is the amount of wear that occurred in both the boss and the steel flat stock that captures the cylinder trunnion as it rotates and because it is the bottom face that gets the most wear, as you guys know. Just for your information; I ran 4 evenly spaced weld beads across the interior face of the old worn bushings to shrink them and they came right out after they cooled down.
When you look at the bottom of the trunnion you can see the shim in place. I did a test fit for clearance. Also notice the depth of the worn area in the adjacent bore and you can see how much it is worn and why I cut new shims to help correct for the wear.
This just gives a better perspective of the fit between trunnion and frame cross bar. It's sure is nice to have the cylinder fit snug and not have the slop that was in there originally! Still have to power wire brush the paint on the cylinder body then prep it for paint as well as the frame. Will be posting more pictures and explanations shortly. Thanks for being patient with me and my slow posts and taking a peek and for your interest.
This first picture is of one of the bushings that will press into the swing cylinder trunnion bore. Each cylinder had one that fits in the top and one for the bottom. I tried turning one at a time and found that it was easier and faster to make them as a pair, so this one is just a practice bushing. By machining the bushings in pairs, it allowed me to hold onto one end in the chuck for turning both ID and OD and I didn't have to continually pull the part out of the lathe chuck and turn it end for end.
Here are both trunnion caps and I took the time to dress both the flange and then the pin ends to take out the egg shape that had occurred from the years of wear and probably lack of grease. If you look closely at the ends of the pins that I trued up you can see the flame or induction hardened grain that extends in about an 1/8" from the surface. All of the pins were a different finished diameter, because I only removed as much metal as it took to make the pin diameter round again and they were all worn (tops and bottoms). The dark colored stock seen in the upper right is the DOM steel that I have been using for my bushings. It's a lot easier to buy a foot or two of DOM and turn it down to the final size than it is to buy solid bar and bore and turn it down. This DOM is 1020 carbon steel and I think it will just do fine!
Just checking fit. I have found that turning a bushing 1 to 2 thousandths over the actual bore that it will be pressed into works well. And I use a boring bar to cut the inside diameter 2-3 of thousandth over the pin size, so by the time you press it in you still have room for grease and rotational movement between pin and bushing.
Here is a shot of the boring operation and I always start with the smallest ID. I can enlarge the one on the opposite end as needed. You can see the marks on the boring bar shaft and when those are aligned with the end of the part that tells me when to stop the cut.
Not very scientific, but I've found, at least for me, that holding a sharpie to mark the approximate diameter that I'm shooting for saves a bunch of time when removing a lot of stock and then I do my final measurements with an inside micrometer. And since I try to always make my marks just a little shy of the final cut, a person can cut up to that mark and still be good to go.
On this shot, you can see the parting tool that's used to separate the two bushings from a common piece of stock. Most of my machining is done dry, using carbide but when grooving or parting you need to use cutting oil. I just use high sulfur, the same used in cutting thread on pipe, it lubricates real well.
Just a little chamfer inside and out and all that's left is to take it over to my band saw to complete the cut at the parting groove, then chuck it back up to do a final facing and chamfer on the cut end.
Here's the finished cap and pin with the gland nut directly above and to the right is the cylinder trunnion with the newly turned bushing pressed in, and just tipped up on it's edge is the new shim that I turned. If you look closely you can see that the bushing extends out of the trunnion boss by almost an 1/8 of a inch. That is the amount of wear that occurred in both the boss and the steel flat stock that captures the cylinder trunnion as it rotates and because it is the bottom face that gets the most wear, as you guys know. Just for your information; I ran 4 evenly spaced weld beads across the interior face of the old worn bushings to shrink them and they came right out after they cooled down.
When you look at the bottom of the trunnion you can see the shim in place. I did a test fit for clearance. Also notice the depth of the worn area in the adjacent bore and you can see how much it is worn and why I cut new shims to help correct for the wear.
This just gives a better perspective of the fit between trunnion and frame cross bar. It's sure is nice to have the cylinder fit snug and not have the slop that was in there originally! Still have to power wire brush the paint on the cylinder body then prep it for paint as well as the frame. Will be posting more pictures and explanations shortly. Thanks for being patient with me and my slow posts and taking a peek and for your interest.
vulcancowboy
Gold Member
I continue to be amazed by your talent, good work!
wmonroe
Elite Member
Very nice work! I really enjoy seeing your updates.
vulcancowboy
Gold Member
I've gotta ask, when this project is complete, will you actually move some dirt with it, or is it going to be a museum piece? 
OP
stans1
Silver Member
Thanks, vucancowboy, I really appreciate that. But you know, I don't think of what I'm doing as a talent thing, just getting the darn thing to a useful condition and it's never been in my nature to do things half way. I'll be posting more real soon! :thumbsup:
OP
stans1
Silver Member
I'll try not to disappoint. Sorry I took so long to start posting again......
OP
stans1
Silver Member
Yeah, like I said before; I've got lots of projects to aim it at when it's finished. In fact I was in the Parker hydraulic hose shop this afternoon to pick up the new hoses for the swing cylinders. If this thing winds up in a museum it won't be my doing! Ha Ha.....I've gotta ask, when this project is complete, will you actually move some dirt with it, or is it going to be a museum piece?
RockhorsePark
New member
- Joined
- Aug 15, 2014
- Messages
- 3
- Location
- Fort Rock, OR
- Tractor
- John Deere, Case, Mitsubishi, Craftsman
Count me in too. What a beautifully carried out and documented project you have here. Thank you for sharing your work. I have an old 530 diesel Tripl-Range. Carry on!
OP
stans1
Silver Member
Hi RockhorsePark, Glad you've been enjoying the thread. What year of 530ck hoe do you own? Post a picture................thanks.