1989 ford 1920 engine acceleration

[Spicer]

I wouldn’t be too discouraged. The repairs in front of you are not all that costly. It’s more frustration than anything else.

Governor:
When you pull the injection pump you will be able to determine the functionality of the governor. Keep in mind that all of the governor components have spring returns.

This may be a preexisting problem; you may end up pulling the timing cover.

Steering Valve:
Ford/NH never made the steering valve to begin with. If you can not find the valve, you can reverse engineer the steering valve that is described below.

Example (you will have to measure your own)
Steering cylinder 1-1/2” bore by 8” stroke = 14.1cubic inches (PI * Radius^2)
3 revolutions lock to lock of the steering wheel to extend the steering cylinder.
14.1cu in / 3 rev = 4.7 cu in steering valve

Bailey’s and Surplus Center sell Eaton/Char-Lynn steering valves. You will have to determine whether the mounting bolt circle, shaft splines and straight pipe hydraulic fittings are a match.

Mike

 

[achallie]

Thanks Mike. I've located some salvage yards with 1920's on hand so I'm waiting to hear back from them on a valve. If worse comes to worse I'll find something to match it up. Once I get that done I'll get back on the idling problem and do some digging.

 

[achallie]

Just an update. I have located a salvage steering valve for a reasonable price. Should have it sometime next week. This should solve the leaking valve problem and I can continue with the running issues.

 

[Spicer]

You should consider keeping a cover plate for the engine air intake close by. If a runaway occurs this plate would starve the engine of air.

You can’t count on the shut off solenoid to push the governor linkage back if it is binding. You can’t count on the fuel shut off valve either; there could be several seconds of fuel in the lines.

Mike

 

[achallie]

Update..Steering orbital installed and working fine..now back to the problem of the engine running away.

 

[Soundguy]

sticky rack?

 

[achallie]

No...Cracked housing....On a side note..How are the I&T repair manuals? Worth the money?

 

[Soundguy]

yes and no.

yes.. for 30$ you aren't wasting money.

no.. not as good as the $$$ dealer service manual that takes you thru a total rebuild.

 

[achallie]

purged the tank and changed out the fuel filter. Got it running. Have been running it now for about a hour and a half or so today performing some minor work around the house such as moving a dirt pile. Has only run away once in that hour and it only did it for a few seconds and died on its own. Cranked right back up and has been running "normal" for a while. I'm thinking something may be wrong with the governor. Sometime you can press on the foot accelerator it the engine rpm's will increase. Other times it may not respond at all. Also seems to have low power. When going to "scoop" with the front end loader the engine bogs down and will die if you keep getting into it. This is only 60/40 so its not like I'm moving clay or anything too solid. I know this fuel injection pump is run off the cam. Is there any timing involved with it and if so...how is it adjusted?

 

[Spicer]

Achallie, It´s probably obvious to you now; the reason you have no power is because you have no governor.

The governor lever #4 has a retaining pin #8. Do you recall installing this pin through the pump governor shaft?

You will not have to time your pump, they are factory set.

Mike