1989 ford 1920 engine acceleration

[Spicer]

Achallie, Further back on this thread Soundguy mentioned if the problem could be a “sticky rack” (pumps gear rack). I realize that the pump was recently serviced, but was there any break-out of the cast-iron or irregularities along this rack that could cause binding?

Did you try to manually turn lever #13 to see if there was any change to the rpm’s? Is lever #13 tight on shaft #10? Is the throttle return spring #38 present?

I was incorrect about spring #36 being connected the pump shaft. It is connected to the trimming cover.

Mike

 

[achallie]

No. Actually the pump looked really clean. There were no burs or chips on any of the rod or gear teeth. The return spring is present and the lever is tight and aligned on the shaft as it is supposed to be.
On another note, just to eliminate the possibility of an engine problem in respect to the low power, I ran a compression test on the engine. All cylinders were around 525 psi give or take a few pounds. This seems within range but I do not know exactly what the compression is supposed to be.
I did notice that the fuel lines from the tank to the filter seem a little "wet". This may be from just working on the tractor or it may be that they are dried and cracking and in need of replacement. Hard to tell with the woven fiber covering. I would imagine these are original to the tractor. I believe the next step wll be to replace these lines to eliminate the possibility of air entering the fuel system.

 

[Spicer]

From your previous thread, it appeared that the pump would not prime properly. While priming the pump was the fuel coming out as a stream or was it just dripping?

Does the tractor have to be at full throttle in order to idle?

I have a diesel that will run with the shutoff valve closed. It leaks just enough to run, but will not accelerate. I wonder if you have a collapsed fuel line that periodically opens causing the apparent runaway.

Mike

 

[achallie]

Finally had the chance to get back into it. Replaced those fuel lines. As I suspected, it didn't change anything but at least that eliminates a possibility. By turning lever # 13 I'd say 8/10 times there is little or no difference. Pulled the injection pump to check the lever and rod connection. It was intact. The rod on the pump slides effortlessly. The solenoid fully retracts as it should, and the cut off lever seems to work as it should. the failure for it to respond to manually turning the throttle lever seems to indicate something is going on behind the timing cover. So I suppose that will be the next step.