2 post or 4 post vehicle lift ideas

[Darth_DMack]

I searched the forums using the search function, and could not find what I was looking for. So, here goes. ADMINS, if this is the wrong forum for this topic, apologies. Let me know if it needs to move.

Ok, so... I'm recently retired from a very long 36 year career in the US Army. I bought property in South Carolina, and recently moved into my forever home. We just broke ground for my workshop, and here is my rough floor plan. I want a vehicle lift to work on my dually, my Jeep, my UTV, etc. but I can't decide on either a 2 post or a 4 post. I have read the pro's and con's of each, and still can't make up my mind.

My brother is a 30 year heavy diesel mechanic, and has a 2 post lift at his house. He has told me the differences, and his opinion on the matter. I've never had a lift before, but I know it is a must have for my new shop.

What are your thoughts, from those who have lifts. Also, which brand do you recommend?

My shop will be 40' wide, by 60' deep. I will have three 12x12 roll up doors with aprons, situated as shown in the diagram. I'm adding drains as well. The 14' over hang will have the first 20' finished off, and will be my office. There will be a full bathroom (toilet, sink and shower) in the office area.

Shop will be insulated, and wired with both 110v and 220v.

Looking forward to your insight. Much appreciated.

 

[scootr]

Personally I feel like a 2 post lift offers better access for working on cars and a 4 post lift is better for storing cars in the air when you want to park a second car underneath.
Also I would put the bathroom door out into the main shop, not into the office. 9 times out of 10 when you need to use the bathroom you don't want to go through another room to get to it. Also would allow you to lock your office and leave the bathroom accessible.
Good Luck with the project.

 

[Darth_DMack]

Personally I feel like a 2 post lift offers better access for working on cars and a 4 post lift is better for storing cars in the air when you want to park a second car underneath.
Also I would put the bathroom door out into the main shop, not into the office. 9 times out of 10 when you need to use the bathroom you don't want to go through another room to get to it. Also would allow you to lock your office. and leave the bathroom accessible.
Good Luck with the project.

I hear you on all parts. Yes, the bathroom WILL be accessible from the shop, as well as the office... the drawing is a rough idea of what we will draw up for the final plans. I'm also considering moving the one roll up door on the end of the building, over to the side, since with a lift down there, I won't be able to drive in anyway.

Interesting take on the 2 post vs 4 post. My brother has an Atlas 2 post lift, and has had it for many years. He advised me to do a 4 post. I've never had a lift, so I'm doing my due diligence.

 

[George2615]

I have a 2 post 9000lb lift made by Challenger in USA. My buddy has a 4 post lift (don't know brand). Both have pros/cons. I do like buddy's 4 post because it isn't bolted down and he has rollers he can put on each corner and move it if needed. My garage isn't large enough to allow moving the lift. IMO you have the space for a 4 post lift that can be moved if needed. He also has the air jack option that can roll in a track from front to back which is a nice feature.

 

[scootr]

Ideally align the lift with the doors so you can drive on and drive off without backing and yes move an entry door so you don't drive over/into the lift.

 

[Rockbadchild]

I think the main disadvantage with the two post is getting in and out of the vehicle/ opening the door as the post are in the way and it is less stable also sometime you need to drive the car on a 2x4's to pre lift the car to fit the lift point underneath ... the main disadvantage of the 4 post is to work on the wheels assembly you need to jack the vehicle independently put a jack stan on, and to drive on and off it is more risky its best to have a spotter compare to a 2 post.

 

[repete]

If you plan on using it to work on brakes, wheels and/or tires then a four post would be of little value to you.
I have a 9K two post and wish I had gone with a 12K lift. Lifting a 1 ton dual wheel tests the limits of a 9K.
If you go two post, be sure to have your cables and hydraulics overhead and not crossing the floor as transmission jacks would be frustrating.

Gregg

 

[sd455dan]

If you plan on using it to work on brakes, wheels and/or tires then a four post would be of little value to you.
I have a 9K two post and wish I had gone with a 12K lift. Lifting a 1 ton dual wheel tests the limits of a 9K.
If you go two post, be sure to have your cables and hydraulics overhead and not crossing the floor as transmission jacks would be frustrating.

Gregg

If you ever need to separate a body from a vehicles frame, a 2 post makes it possible.
Asymmetrical style will give more door opening clearance.

I lift my one ton diesel SRW on a 10k Bendpak 2 post have also dropped front engine and subframe complete on an AWD mazda MPV Minivan

 

[ericm979]

Seems like the roll up door at the top of the drawing will be blocked by the lift or by a vehicle in what looks like the main work bay.

You can get rolling jacks for the four post lift so you can work on suspension. One reason for four post lifts that I don't see mentioned yet is that with a two post you have to get down on the ground and look under the car when positioning the lift arms. They make asymmetric two post lifts that let you place the car where hopefully the doors aren't blocked my the lift as much. There are also extra wide lifts.

When roll up doors are rolled down there is a big gap at the top. There are bird screen things to keep birds out but they won't keep air out. If you want to condition the air in the shop you might look into sectional doors. They can be had with high tracks that go close to the ceiling so the doors don't get in the way of vehicles on lifts.

You don't need reinforced areas for the lifts, especially a four post. It's got large feet and thus puts less pressure on the floor than the vehicle that's on it does when its on the floor. Two post lifts have manufacturer specs for concrete thickness, psi and how close control joints can be. You might need a little thicker concrete for a two post but as long as you're getting what's speced you don't need significantly thicker. Four posts are more forgiving. Many four posts can be moved and will operate without being bolted down.

 

[Slowpoke Slim]

Agree on the bathroom access, needs to be from the shop floor, not the office. I would also add a large shop sink with a foot activated valve to the wall right next to the bathroom door for washing hands and parts.

I would move the left side (as per the picture orientation) roll up door AND the lift down to the middle of the shop floor (center of the picture), and leave the two other roll up doors on the ends.

And I would never have "outward opening" man-doors. But I live in snow country. You'd only do it once here...

Can't help you on a lift since I don't have one (but want one). What's the ceiling height going to be directly above the lift? Enough to get a vehicle or tractor high enough in the air to fully stand up underneath it once it's in the air? A buddy of mine has one in a shop that the ceiling height isn't high enough and he has to slightly stoop over anytime he's underneath a car. I'm taller and have to stoop enough that it's uncomfortable pretty quickly.

Oh, and to add, 40x60 is going to get small faster than you think. I have a 40x70 that's full(-ish) that I never thought I'd run out of room in.