2" receiver on drawbar

[CurlyDave]

The only towing I would do with it would be just to move the trailers around.

How far are you going to move them around?

If you are talking about only very short distances to jockey them in a yard, Payne's makes a receiver which clamps onto your FEL bucket. This allows you to raise and lower the ball at will.

 

[wcampbell47]

AA - I understand that you want to tow from the draw bar. Your tractor is about the size of mine. Let me share a couple of experiences.

By the time you get your trailer hooked up to a ball on the normal draw bar, even if it is extended the tongue of the trailer is going to be close up on the tractor. Your turning radius will be limited by the Y shape of the tongue. If you turn sharply the trailer tongue will get into the rear tires causing damage either to the tractor or the trailer. Been there done that. Secondly the lift arms extend past the regular draw bar, yet another obstacle as you tow and turn.

There is a reason why experienced tractor drivers don't tow trailers from the draw bar unless you have a long single tube tongue which is not common on utility trailers.

I have a tool bar that I use to attach different plows to. In the middle of the tool bar I have U bolted a receiver hitch. I definitely appreciate the ability to lower the 3 point, back under my trailer, raise the 3 point and jockey the trailer around.

Towing from the 3 point is going to cause way less grief than binding a rear tire in the trailer tongue.

 

[JJZ 109]

I've never used the underneath, rear facing drawbar on my tractor. It's almost like it isn't even there. In fact I removed the one from my previous tractor and still have it. Forgot to put it back on when I traded because it was never used.
How about a multi hole bar that attaches to the lift arms? Like this one? With one of these it may be possible to bolt a step bumper mount type receiver like this
Harbor Freight model.
As CurlyDave says, you can also get a clamp on style. They can be had on ebay for cheaper than Payne's. But I will tell you that my experience with them has been less than stellar. First, the screw on them will dent your bucket bottom in. So I put a piece of steel under it to remedy that. But then I found that it didn't take much resistance when pushing and turning the trailer to have the hitch cock sideways on me. It's much handier sometimes to be hooked onto the front of the tractor as far as vision goes, but the clamp on idea just didn't work for me personally. But then I was pushing a 7x14 enclosed with a seamless gutter machine and all kinds of tools, materials, etc inside. A clamp on style just might work fine for someone with a very light, unloaded trailer just to jockey it around the yard.

 

[the_g]

Have a look at this on. You just need to have the 3pt hitch drawbar with 2" hole centers.
EMP Tractor Draw Bar Stabilizer for Category 1 Tractors, Model# 7350-1 | 3-Point + PTO Hardware | Northern Tool + Equipment

 

[Bob77064]

How far are you going to move them around?

If you are talking about only very short distances to jockey them in a yard, Payne's makes a receiver which clamps onto your FEL bucket. This allows you to raise and lower the ball at will.

Just a short distance, thanks for the idea.

 

[Don87]

Theres a few ideas in this thread:

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/customization/204936-my-easy-front-end-loader.html

 

[BRB Hand]

I am not sure what your drawbar configuration is but...... On my massey it has 3 holes (counting the one for a ball or pin in the end). I bought a long; about 12" reciever tube and bolted on top of the drawbar using all 3 holes. It is a little close to the tires when turning and the ball ends up cantelievered pretty far. It does work great for most moderate tounge weights. I can post picture later if you like

 

[CurlyDave]

...As CurlyDave says, you can also get a clamp on style. They can be had on ebay for cheaper than Payne's. But I will tell you that my experience with them has been less than stellar. First, the screw on them will dent your bucket bottom in. So I put a piece of steel under it to remedy that. But then I found that it didn't take much resistance when pushing and turning the trailer to have the hitch cock sideways on me. It's much handier sometimes to be hooked onto the front of the tractor as far as vision goes, but the clamp on idea just didn't work for me personally. But then I was pushing a 7x14 enclosed with a seamless gutter machine and all kinds of tools, materials, etc inside. A clamp on style just might work fine for someone with a very light, unloaded trailer just to jockey it around the yard.

I have to agree, the results I got were also less than stellar.

In fact, they were downright life-threatening. Somewhere there is an older thread on how I had one cock sideways on a hill and the only way to straighten it out was to get in between the trailer and the tractor FEL.

On a level surface and for short distances, they are OK, but once there is any slope at all involved they can be dangerous.

 

[PHILIP8N]

Here's a couple. With your skill set, I would just buy the 3 point version. I made the one for the Kubota drawbar with parts purchased from Tractor supply and McMaster Carr. The one for the 11 hole drawbar on the 8N was also make from parts from TSC and MMC. Takes a little thinking and drilling, but it is not that difficult. Philip.

 

[JJZ 109]

I have to agree, the results I got were also less than stellar.

In fact, they were downright life-threatening. Somewhere there is an older thread on how I had one cock sideways on a hill and the only way to straighten it out was to get in between the trailer and the tractor FEL.

On a level surface and for short distances, they are OK, but once there is any slope at all involved they can be dangerous.

I had an old step bumper mount receiver laying around for years. I wound up cutting a square hole into the back of my ballast box. Put the receiver inside the ballast box and poked it out through the square hole, which was slightly larger than the receiver tube. Drilled and bolted it along with a little welding and that's what I use most of the time now.