2" receiver on drawbar

[bucktaker]

I welded a 3x4 inch piece of angle to the back of my box blade. drilled a hole and added a 2 in ball.

Back up to the trailer raise the 3 pt and off you go dont even latch it if I am just moving the trailer.

 

[DennisFolsom]

Have a look at this on. You just need to have the 3pt hitch drawbar with 2" hole centers.
EMP Tractor Draw Bar Stabilizer for Category 1 Tractors, Model# 7350-1 | 3-Point + PTO Hardware | Northern Tool + Equipment

I have this one. I find that it works well for moving my trailer around, which is the use that the original poster indicated. It works fine for me.

 

[s219]

This is where the confusion comes in.

The actual drawbar on a tractor is not the 3pt. hitch, the drawbar is the bar that protrudes from the bottom of the tractor near the rear end........it doesn't move.(well, not up and down anyway)

Some smaller tractors have the drawbar hole molded into the steel that is part of the tractor frame.

That is the 'towing-pulling point' of a tractor.

I agree there is a lot of confusion here -- the OP was asking about towing from the drawbar, but people keep suggesting 3-pt arrangements.

I was referring to the "factory" drawbar. On my Kubota, it's removable, and pins into a slot at the bottom/back of the frame. It is the towing/pulling point as you note.

I have ordered a 3-pt hitch arrangement, but in the meantime I have attached a ball to that factory drawbar, and it works fine as long as you pay attention to potential clearance issues with the trailer frame and 3-pt arms. I am wondering why the OP hasn't just attached a ball to his factory drawbar. A new ball is $7-10, which seems like a cheap solution in the short term.

 

[JB4310]

I am a fairly new tractor owner. I'd like to tow a small utility trailer I have to carry brush, etc. I am able to find no end of 2" receiver units for 3 point hitches, but the attachment that would seem to be a no-brainer, a 2" receiver that either bolts to or replaces the drawbar is not to be found anywhere.

I did see a nice photo of a home-built one on the site. Unfortunately I do not have a welder nor the welding skills. I could have a local fab shop build one for me, but I'm just amazed I can't simply buy one.

Any suggestions?

Tractor in question is a JD3520, if it matters.

Thanks,

aa

IMO it's impractical, too low and difficult to couple.

That's why you don't see any, I rigged a 2 inch insert to slide over a draw-bar on a garden tractor, and be pinned i place. worked OK for that. but on larger machine I would go with the 3 pt hitch.

No more lifting trailers!

I've got the flex point but had to mod it so much I would now not recommend it. I had to put a rise limiter hook on as well as break away chain loops.

I would just recommend the one from HF that utilizes a horizontal draw bar and attaches to top link. nice and simple, plus it allows attachment of needed acs with the holes in the horz bar

I was googling for another simple one that was advertised here on tbn, but couldn't find it.

It's kinda creepy when you find links to your own contraptions when searching google.

Found this pic, and thought, gee that looks familiar, then realized it's mine! with a link to another similar tbn thread.

JB

 

[Briar Hill Brittanys]

I have a swinging drawbar on my 8N. I use it for my water trailer, and also when hitching up the grain drill or other towed planter. The 2" ball screws down to the drawbar. I remove it for the implement clevis hitches. Mark

 

[KU Gator]

I don't know if this would work on your tractor or if it is BX specific. If it looks like it might work, you could try contacting Bxpanded. I will admit that I use a 3 pt version as it is so convient, although I think using the tractor drawbar is safer.

Quick-On Receiver Hitch

 

[aa777888]

All,

Just in case you lost track, I am the original poster. Thank you all for the really tremendous response to my question. Clearly I hit a nerve!

My goal, of course, was to pull from the safest location. However the comments about the tires and three point hitch (TPH) getting in the way are very good ones, particularly because I have an iMatch set up and it's not coming off just for towing a small trailer!

The Northern Tool gadget looks like a good one. And I can snub the TPH drawbar down to the "real" drawbar with with a short piece of chain sized to keep the TPH from riding up if the tongue weight should accidentally go negative, as shown in one poster's photo. This set up, being adjustable height, will also allow me to share my existing ball carriers I use with my truck. I will just have to be careful not to do the tractor backflip thing, although I don't think I will ever be towing more than 2000 lbs of combined trailer and cargo so I hope it won't be that big of an issue.

The other idea I really liked was to get a 2" receiver welded to my weight box. I think that will be another good solution but a little further in the future.

Thanks everyone!

aa

 

[grnspot110]

This is my weight box setup, used only for light towing. For heavier towing, only use the tractors original drawbar---safety first !!! ~~ grnspot

 

[pat32rf]

I keep seeing that we should "pull from the drawbar". I might, if I was pulling a haywagon or rake, etc.
For all other pulling I use the 3pth and watch the height of the bar (unless I'm pulling a plow, box blade, back blade, etc)
My 3pth is designed to carry a greater tonque load than the "drawbar" and is easier to get at than trying to hook up a 200lb loaded trailer tonque. And yes, my trailer WILL be properly loaded so the tongue is heavy (unless the trailer is empty, then who cares).

The 3pth drawbar will also be hooked to the top member to stop it from twisting/spinning under load and screwing up the trailer hitch. This way I can back the bar under the hitch and lift the ball using my fingers on the controls, instead of my back and leg muscles, especially when on uneven ground.

I have found that I can buy 2 1/2" square tubing at the Rent-all that is designed to take a 2" draw bar so I tend to have a 2" receiver on almost everything, even the rear of some trailers...

 

[pat32rf]

I keep seeing that we should "pull from the drawbar". I might, if I was pulling a haywagon or rake, etc.
For all other pulling I use the 3pth and watch the height of the bar (unless I'm pulling a plow, box blade, back blade, etc)
My 3pth is designed to carry a greater tonque load than the "drawbar" and is easier to get at than trying to hook up a 200lb loaded trailer tonque. And yes, my trailer WILL be properly loaded so the tongue is heavy (unless the trailer is empty, then who cares).

The 3pth drawbar will also be hooked to the top member to stop it from twisting/spinning under load and screwing up the trailer hitch. This way I can back the bar under the hitch and lift the ball using my fingers on the controls, instead of my back and leg muscles, especially when on uneven ground.

I have found that I can buy 2 1/2" square tubing at the Rent-all that is designed to take a 2" draw bar so I tend to have a 2" receiver on almost everything, even the rear of some trailers...

I have found that 8" of this tubing, with a piece of 2" angle welded to each side makes a very handy "portable, removeable, temporary" hitch. Got one on the rear of my snowblower, just never got around to removing it after installation 4yrs back....