2 speed tranny vs 3 speed. Is it really a big deal?

[Hill HIgh Guy]

PM sent, I知 right down the road and have 2 machines for sale. Not sure if your interested but you could come check them even if your not to get an idea anyway. One is a 2 range HST the other is a Power Reverser.
I think picking the right size machine is most important closely followed by getting the right transmission. I never needed more than 2 ranges on an HST, wouldn稚 hurt to have 3. I can see how 2 ranges with a PR or Shuttle would be an issue for sure. Best of luck, Rye.

Thanks Rye

 

[Grandad4]

I was fortunate enough to have two HST machines working side by side for more than 10 years, one with a 3 range setup; the other with only 2 ranges, so I got to compare very directly how they worked in day to day operation. Some of the commenters suggest the 2 range setup involves more shifting between ranges, and I found that to be true. The low range had to be geared down to give it pushing/pulling power but you couldn't travel very fast. Conversely, the high range got you around efficiently but had no grunt. So you're forever changing from high to low and back as you work.

On the other hand, the 3 speed unit had a mid-range that was "just right" for about 90% of what you do, so you didn't have to worry about stopping and changing ranges very much. That also enabled the low range to be geared down for serious grunt while high could give you an excellent road gear. So it wouldn't be wrong to say a 2 range HST tractor can work well, but a 3 range will be an improved, more efficient, productive setup that gets more done. Since a tractor is intended to be a tool for accomplishing work, that's not something to casually dismiss.

 

[rScotty]

It's interesting to debate the 2 vs 3 speed HST, but since you say your land is sloping I'd say that would push to go with more gears rather than fewer. But I agree with the guy who wrote that the transmission was only one of the things to be considered for slope work, and not the most important one either. I've been working tractors on slopes for over half a century now and I've almost figured it out.

The big thing to be concerned with on slopes is slope stability. Tractors were designed for flat land; so we pay special attention to lots of things to use them on slopes. Using any implement and especially a loader on a slope is one of the problems... you can do it, but have to be careful because as soon as you lift the implement or loader bucket the center of gravity goes up and things get real tippy.

We do what we can. Get a heavier tractor with a lower center of gravity. It has to have 4wd because tractors don't have front brakes....
Implements come in various widths and weights, go for smaller, lighter implements. When choosing a loader bucket you may want to consider the smaller ones. Smaller buckets and implements mean a larger proportion of the the tractor's total weight is staying on the ground instead of being lifted up. Keeps the CG low. While you are looking at buckets, my own preference is for the SSQA type mounting.

Tires make a huge difference on slopes. They are probably the biggest positive change you can make for slope work. You and your tractor will be happier with the lowest, widest tires you can find with stong sidewalls. That probably means that you want industrial (R4).... or possibley turf tread (R3). Both of those are way more stable than the traditional lug style Ag tractor tires (R1).
You'll want to decide on tires before ordering buying the tractor because tractor tires are not only expensive, but each of the different tires requires a different size rim, and the overall diameter balance between front and rear tires needs to be considered. Your dealer will know all this, or Kubota's "Build Your Own" tractor is also a good place to start. Some model tractors offer variable tire width; most offer tire spacers and wheel weights. Get every option you can find that lowers the center of gravity and widens the stance.

Those are just a few of the things to consider when you put a tractor on a slope. You can do it all, but it does take more thought.
good luck,
rScotty

 

[Hill HIgh Guy]

Thanks for the well thought out reply Scotty!

 

[mapper]

Stay with the three speed for sure no matter what brand you choose.
I run in medium 90% of the time. Rarely use low and high is only used on
the road.

Second that.

 

[mike69440]

I would consider a 3 speed Or HST Plus or Yanmar transmission, but not a 2 speed. 2 speed is ok if you have a large suburban yard, not Acreage.

The L3901 is still a small light tractor. My neighbor owns one, my boss has an the last year of production L3800. They both realize they bought just a bit too small, but get by.

For heavy work my neighbor added a Kubota CTL, SV95-2
BUY ENOUGH TRACTOR

 

[s219]

I regularly operate a 2-speed Deere and a 3-speed Kubota. I really like the 3-speed. Medium is the default, good for most stuff. If pulling or pushing where a lot of grunt is needed, I drop into low. And for moving down the road to cover some distance, high is used.

In reality, there is a lot of overlap in how the HST works with either 2-speed or 3-speed. Where I think the 3-speed shines is that it gives you more control over how the HST performs and from the highest range you can drop down two gears as needed. An HST will whine when you are in too high of a gear or you push the treadle/pedal to far down. I can control/eliminate the whine a little better on the Kubota.

All that said, I'd put many other factors ahead of this. The new Deere 2R series machines are very nice. If they end up being a better fit for you, I wouldn't let 2-spd get in the way. Give the machine a thorough test drive of course. Too many people make decisions (or get paralyzed) based on a "paper" study of the specs, and you really need to drive the actual tractor and make your own conclusions.

 

[oldballs]

Although it would not hurt to test drive any CUT around the dealer yard, I can't see that it would tell one a heck of a lot in specific applications on his own turf.

I guess a 6'6" 300 lb male might "fit" better in one unit than another vs a 90 lb lady as the seat adjusts or the steering tilts or the accelerator pedal rocks back/forth.....just sayin..... Yet a lot of TBNers recommend this trial drive.

 

[Ortimber]

Nothing much more to add here, but I run my L3901 in medium range almost exclusively. A 2 speed would not be desirable in my situation since I live on a hill and high gear is almost useless.

 

[k0ua]

It's interesting to debate the 2 vs 3 speed HST, but since you say your land is sloping I'd say that would push to go with more gears rather than fewer. But I agree with the guy who wrote that the transmission was only one of the things to be considered for slope work, and not the most important one either. I've been working tractors on slopes for over half a century now and I've almost figured it out.

The big thing to be concerned with on slopes is slope stability. Tractors were designed for flat land; so we pay special attention to lots of things to use them on slopes. Using any implement and especially a loader on a slope is one of the problems... you can do it, but have to be careful because as soon as you lift the implement or loader bucket the center of gravity goes up and things get real tippy.

We do what we can. Get a heavier tractor with a lower center of gravity. It has to have 4wd because tractors don't have front brakes....
Implements come in various widths and weights, go for smaller, lighter implements. When choosing a loader bucket you may want to consider the smaller ones. Smaller buckets and implements mean a larger proportion of the the tractor's total weight is staying on the ground instead of being lifted up. Keeps the CG low. While you are looking at buckets, my own preference is for the SSQA type mounting.

Tires make a huge difference on slopes. They are probably the biggest positive change you can make for slope work. You and your tractor will be happier with the lowest, widest tires you can find with stong sidewalls. That probably means that you want industrial (R4).... or possibley turf tread (R3). Both of those are way more stable than the traditional lug style Ag tractor tires (R1).
You'll want to decide on tires before ordering buying the tractor because tractor tires are not only expensive, but each of the different tires requires a different size rim, and the overall diameter balance between front and rear tires needs to be considered. Your dealer will know all this, or Kubota's "Build Your Own" tractor is also a good place to start. Some model tractors offer variable tire width; most offer tire spacers and wheel weights. Get every option you can find that lowers the center of gravity and widens the stance.

Those are just a few of the things to consider when you put a tractor on a slope. You can do it all, but it does take more thought.
good luck,
rScotty

Listen to this guy. He knows what he is talking about. I am another "slope dweller" here in Branson Mo. We have two kinds of ground here, ground that slopes up and ground that slopes down. I got rid of my tractor when I moved here because I didn't think I could operate one safely here. Well 3 tractors on this property later, proves I can operate one safely here, but it does take a different mindset, and more caution. The points made above are all very valid.