carpenter383
Platinum Member
It might not be a bad idea to flush the axle with kerosene or diesel fuel to try and clean those metal shavings out, you don't want them floating around in the oil.
Oil & Fuel 200 hrs and NO OIL IN THE FRONT AXLE? -3120
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HawaiiOrganic
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This is covered under the warranty?! Parts total $20! That's really good news!
The tractor was sold new one year ago to the day. I have a bill of sale and have contacted JD to make sure the warranty would transfer. Two year manufacture defect, and three on the drive train I thought. I didn't read it as well as I should have though.
Those caps definitely sat on pointed blue rock. The drain plugs are worn flush with the housing it took so much on those points. Somebody thought they bought a bulldozer.
The 4wd works good, not that I would be able to hear anything over that DI ticking in my face. It does make a very audible consistent gear mesh noise that sounds the same when full or drained when I lifted and freewheeled the front end, engine off.
I'll call the dealer that sold it last year and see if he's interested in covering it. Doesn't really seem like they would though. A good price would work for me. Unless it can just be free tapped in on site, I would save the $100 transport.
Yes that glitter was metal alright, but apparently not enough to wreck the components.
Next Question:
What are the first symptoms of front end failure? Or do parts like the differential just go catastrophically?
Whoooo.. what a load off, thanks guys!
The tractor was sold new one year ago to the day. I have a bill of sale and have contacted JD to make sure the warranty would transfer. Two year manufacture defect, and three on the drive train I thought. I didn't read it as well as I should have though.
Those caps definitely sat on pointed blue rock. The drain plugs are worn flush with the housing it took so much on those points. Somebody thought they bought a bulldozer.
The 4wd works good, not that I would be able to hear anything over that DI ticking in my face. It does make a very audible consistent gear mesh noise that sounds the same when full or drained when I lifted and freewheeled the front end, engine off.
I'll call the dealer that sold it last year and see if he's interested in covering it. Doesn't really seem like they would though. A good price would work for me. Unless it can just be free tapped in on site, I would save the $100 transport.
Yes that glitter was metal alright, but apparently not enough to wreck the components.
Next Question:
What are the first symptoms of front end failure? Or do parts like the differential just go catastrophically?
Whoooo.. what a load off, thanks guys!
Cocre
Gold Member
If it is covered under warranty I would be surprised. If not, I would flush it as others have recommended, replace the plugs, add the oil, and ride her till she breaks.
Do not use the MFWD on hard surfaces, on dirt is fine, and stay off the blue pointed rocks.
Do not use the MFWD on hard surfaces, on dirt is fine, and stay off the blue pointed rocks.
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HawaiiOrganic
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Flush with diesel? I've used diesel as a cleaner but not in these conditions. Does anyone see a problem with diesel in the front axle? How long should I drive it for before flushing?
SPYDERLK
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Put in diesel, put the tractor in 2wd, and drive it fast for about a thousand feet. Drain IMMEDIATELY. Repeat if you think necessary.
larry
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HawaiiOrganic
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2wd? The drive components will be turning enough to rinse it out? I'll give it a shot.
RobertN
Super Member
I would be very surprised if they warrantied that. That shows obvious signs of abuse.
I am surprised this uses hydraulic fluid in the front axle? My "other brand" is older, and uses 90w in the front diff and final drives(the knuckles near the front wheel).
Is there a fill and drain on each knuckle, or does the front axle share fluid with the final drives?
Remember, tractor axles are not like a pickup or Jeep 4x4. They have a gear reduction in the differential. But, they also have a 2nd gear reduction at the end of the axle, in the big knuckle. There are more bearings and gears inside your tractor axle.
That front end turns all the time. It is not like a 4x4 driveline in a pickup where you can unlock the hubs.
Agree with the other posters. Flush it good with diesel or kerosene. Strain it thru a coffee filter or something though; see just how much metal debris comes out.
I am surprised this uses hydraulic fluid in the front axle? My "other brand" is older, and uses 90w in the front diff and final drives(the knuckles near the front wheel).
Is there a fill and drain on each knuckle, or does the front axle share fluid with the final drives?
Remember, tractor axles are not like a pickup or Jeep 4x4. They have a gear reduction in the differential. But, they also have a 2nd gear reduction at the end of the axle, in the big knuckle. There are more bearings and gears inside your tractor axle.
That front end turns all the time. It is not like a 4x4 driveline in a pickup where you can unlock the hubs.
Agree with the other posters. Flush it good with diesel or kerosene. Strain it thru a coffee filter or something though; see just how much metal debris comes out.
This is covered under the warranty?! Parts total $20! That's really good news!
The tractor was sold new one year ago to the day. I have a bill of sale and have contacted JD to make sure the warranty would transfer. Two year manufacture defect, and three on the drive train I thought. I didn't read it as well as I should have though.
Those caps definitely sat on pointed blue rock. The drain plugs are worn flush with the housing it took so much on those points. Somebody thought they bought a bulldozer.
OP
HawaiiOrganic
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Front axle shares fluid. There is also a drain on each one.
SPYDERLK
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- JD2010, Kubota3450,2550, Mahindra 7520 w FEL w Skid Steer QC w/Tilt Tatch, & BH, BX1500
Those gears always move when you move. Only difference is they arent linked to the engine when in 2wd so they dont carry any load - just spin freely driven by the wheels.
larry
irwin
Veteran Member
You can only hope that most of the oil leaked out while it sat waiting to be sold and minimal damage has occurred
Those caps are easy to replace once you pry them off.. be careful not to dig into mating surface when you pry them off.
A caution about using diesel for a rinse..before I removed the caps I'd pour the solvent (diesel, etc) through frt diff with the front wheels jacked up..spin them by hand, I wouldn't drive around. After spinning the wheels (still on jacks) open both drain plugs and check for chunks... do it again, recheck .. repeat til minimal debris is evident.. then remove the plugs.. pour solvent through one more time.. Let it sit open for 10 minutes or so, then install new caps and fill with the thickest oil JD recommends.
This is just my opinion.. however, I make my money in auto repair, and I'd never let one of my guys fill the front differencial on a 4wd truck with solvent and drive it around the lot regardless of the circumstances.
Those caps are easy to replace once you pry them off.. be careful not to dig into mating surface when you pry them off.
A caution about using diesel for a rinse..before I removed the caps I'd pour the solvent (diesel, etc) through frt diff with the front wheels jacked up..spin them by hand, I wouldn't drive around. After spinning the wheels (still on jacks) open both drain plugs and check for chunks... do it again, recheck .. repeat til minimal debris is evident.. then remove the plugs.. pour solvent through one more time.. Let it sit open for 10 minutes or so, then install new caps and fill with the thickest oil JD recommends.
This is just my opinion.. however, I make my money in auto repair, and I'd never let one of my guys fill the front differencial on a 4wd truck with solvent and drive it around the lot regardless of the circumstances.