2007 JD 2305 Driveshaft lubrication

[RalphVa]

I just had the ones on the 2025R done at 200 hours. Had JD take it, as I needed to get them to replace the PTO button as well. On it, you have to remove the instrument panel to get at the back side of the PTO button. Then you can also get at the front of the driveshaft. They actually removed it. That's the only way you can crook each Ujoint to get a regular grease gun onto the zerks. I could not get any grease into even the rear one with it in place.

Ralph

 

[Ingerdeere]

Wvanatti, thanks for the advice in your posts. I have a 2010 2305. You wrote "I could see where it hit the frame support while spinning. I took a dyno file and ground an V where it was hitting. 1/8th deep. Fixed it." I have NAPA UJ410 on the way and will drop the driveshaft after they arrive. Other posts stated the Moog and NAPA were identical.
1) Where was your Zerk interfering on the frame?
2) Did the Moog U joint you buy come with clips and did use the new or JD clips?

Thanks for the information. Great help!

 

[Wvanatti]

Most welcomed.. I’m a backwoods mechanic at best. It was the front zerk that hit. I tried straight, 90 degree and 45 degree zerks. All of them cleared when rotating by hand. After very little driving it would be gone. I could see a shinny spot on the frame where it barely hit. Hard to get up in there and grind. Before you drop the driveshaft down, maybe mark where the cap spins. Try to take a little off in that area. Again, only an issue if the zerk is on the end of the cap. I have 400 hours on the moogs and still tight with no play. I do take my mower off frequently for bucket work. I try to grease it every chance I get. But also keep a log. Never more than 50 hours.
I did use the original clips. ( came with new ones). But the original ones seemed sturdier. Wish you luck.

On a side note: I have a 54c mower deck. Belt wore out ever summer, became loose and flipped off. I added a $9 6” idler pulley-on my 4th year same belt. If you have that issue, be glad to put a pic.

Bill

 

[ruffdog]

They make flush zerks too.

Flush or Cup Grease Fittings

 

[Wvanatti]

Well, now that just figures.... haha. I had know idea. Never seen one like that before. I presume one would use the needle attachment on the grease gun. Thanks for sharing.

 

[Ingerdeere]

Hey ruffdog thanks for the link. Flush or recessed zerks, even on end caps may still cause some frustration with using needle tips for greasing but I'm thinking about installing a recessed/flush zerk and treat it more like a screw cap. When time to lube I may just replace the recessed with the NAPA oem zerk, clamp on LocknLube to get more pressure from the grease gun. My 2305 is not used for mowing so really easy for me to get under and Lube every 50hr after I drop my belly guards (made my own front extension to add to the Bro-Tek and hung on the MMM front brackets). Waiting on arrival of extended punches before I can drop the driveshaft. If anybody has a picture of an aftermarket U-joint install with recessed zerks I'd love to see it. If there is not a picture out there of a (2210 or 2305) I'll try to post one if I end up replacing the Joints and pairing with recessed Zerks. Like others on these posts I could only confirm grease escaping from 4 of the 8 inner seals after using needle tip. Thanks Wvantti & ruffdog! Found Moog low profile 1/4 28 hex cap zerk at local Advanced Auto. Part # 621. Hope to pick them up and see how they fit.

Advance Auto Parts - Down for Maintenance

 

[Ingerdeere]

Minor set back. Thought I had 2 flush type 1/4 28 Moog grease fittings at local store. Called ahead and was good to go. Got to store and counter guy confused it with a different #620. Went to another local store.... bought Beer with grease fitting money. Went home and ordered on-line. Project on hold for about 5 + days. Drink Beer. Hunt. Waite for shipments.

 

[beenthere]

Waiting never felt so good..

 

[Ingerdeere]

Update and Observations on a 2305: 1) With advice in these forums, a long set of snap ring pliers, the correct size punches and some penetrating oil, removing the driveshaft is about a 15 minute job (I'm retired from medical field Not and experienced jobber or mechanic) from underneath with the tractor on the ground (no ramps). 2) With the driveshaft down, u-joints opened up, LocknLube applied to zerks, pneumatic grease gun AND EXTENSIVE HEATING I could only get grease to exit from 4 of the 8 seals. I removed the JD "spider" ujoints using a large C clamp and appropriate sockets with some tapping as needed to preserve the cups and needle rollers. I have tried to attach a picture
View attachment 674708
1 cap that was getting grease (Left) and 1 that was not (Right with the "grease puck" plug in the center cap).
I am going to replace the "spider" with Napa 410 u joints when flush type grease fittings arrive purchased on E-bay. BUT for anybody not wanting to drop $100 on the JD spider or $50+ Moog or NAPA, and if you're just not confident about your greasing, it may be worth dropping the shaft, removing the existing spiders, inspect, declog the zerk, trunion, inspect the caps and pins, regrease and re-install.
Two of the 4 clogged pins had minor scoring really more like polished toward the inner seal but 2 appeared unaffected.
Each of the 4 end caps that were not getting new grease had a firm "puck" of grease clogging just the exit hole of the pin. The grease inside the cross/spider was good. After removing the zerk and cleaning the inside of the cross/spider and pin exit holes and reassembling the OEM assemblies appear reuseable. I'm keeping them as spares.
My 2305 only has 500 hours so machines worked harder may not be the same
In my opinion there are probably some 2305's out there that if the driveshafts are dropped, carefully disassembled, cleaned, inspected and regreased the OEM spiders might be salvageable. I think mine are.
I already have the Napas and I just want to see if I can avoid having to file the frame support that Wvanatti talks about so I'm not going to reinstall the shaft until the flush type grease fittings ruffdog put me onto arrive.
For what it's worth... on the OEM spider, removed from the shaft, I had to crank on the zerk to remove it and I played around with installing a 90 degree. IMHO changing from a 45 to 90 degree does not change access to a grease gun nozzle but Might make access with needle tip type easier.
Thanks to Pruav and some others for a great how-to description.

 

[Wvanatti]

Glad to read you got it down an serviced. In my opinion, it’s harder to describe how to get it down than it is to just go do it. I’ve also ordered a few flush zerks, as it has me intrigued- having never seen them. My guess is there put in by hand or a screw in the tip. Guess I’ll see when they get here.

Again, congrats on tackling the beast.