2008 Jinma 284 Injector Pump Oil Change

[3RRL]

Loretta finally got around to changing her injector pump oil on her 2008 Jinma 284. It is a good thing to check it frequently and change it once a year or sooner if you wish. Keeps your injector pump in good working order.
Some reminders on how to do it. Refer to the photos below and use a level surface to park the tractor on.
First, remove the fill/breather cap on the top rear of the injector pump. It needs a 13mm open end wrench. I didn't take any photos of it (duh), but it looks like/is a miniature breather cap. It's right behind the accelerator linkage. Be sure to rinse it out with diesel or gas and dry it and don't lose the copper washer(s).



Then get a container to drain the oil out and remove the bottom drain plug where shown in the photo (13mm also). What we did is measure the amount of oil that came out for a reference, since some pumps take different amounts of oil.
After draining, put the drain plug back in and tighten.

Then remove the Bleeder cap with a 12mm wrench or screw driver (it has a slot in the bolt). Some have a little rubber plug on the end. I took hers off to check it out. It is a small banjo type fitting like shown in the pictures below. Leave it out for the time being, as the oil you pour in will go in a little easier.



Then using the amount of oil that came out as a guide, pour that amount of new oil into a small container that you can pour into the fill hole (photo above). We used 30w compressor oil, but you can use motor oil if you prefer. A lot of guys use the same as their engine oil. Anyway, after you get that oil in, screw the bleeder plug back in, but do not tighten yet and leave the rubber cap off. Wait a couple minutes to see it starts dripping from it.



If it does, wait about 15 minutes or so before tightening it up and put on the rubber cap. If it does not, add about 1 oz of oil at a time and wait for it to drip. After it stops dripping, that means the pump is filled to the right level. Then you can tighten it up and put the rubber cap back on. Also reinstall the breather fill cap and tighten it up. We found her Jinma took about 8oz or so.
That's all there is to that. Check the level frequently and change it at least once a year after that.

 

[kennyd]

Maybe I have lived a sheltered life, only having been around International(Ford), Isuzu(GM) a few CAT's and Yanmar(JD) diesel engines...

BUT...

I have NEVER heard of changing injector pump oil

 

[DwayneB]

Maybe I have lived a sheltered life, only having been around International(Ford), Isuzu(GM) a few CAT's and Yanmar(JD) diesel engines...

BUT...

I have NEVER heard of changing injector pump oil

The pumps aren't machined as tight as the name brands. It dilutes with fuel over time. That's why we change it. and oil is cheap.

 

[Harrygoodwrench]

The pumps aren't machined as tight as the name brands. It dilutes with fuel over time. That's why we change it. and oil is cheap.

I change mine every time my oil change interval comes up or at least yearly. Heck, its only 10 ounces max. I've not found any dilution but like I said, 10 ounces of oil is cheap.

 

[Willl]

Maybe I have lived a sheltered life, only having been around International(Ford), Isuzu(GM) a few CAT's and Yanmar(JD) diesel engines...

BUT...

I have NEVER heard of changing injector pump oil

Same here. Is this just a 'Jinma' type of thing ?

 

[kennyd]

The pumps aren't machined as tight as the name brands. It dilutes with fuel over time. That's why we change it. and oil is cheap.

The "Name Brands" DO NOT have a separate oil reserve in them They are lubricated by fuel...That is ULSD is bad for older engines with mechanical fuel injector pumps and a additive should be used to increase "lubricity"

 

[Bob Rooks]

Maybe I have lived a sheltered life, only having been around International(Ford), Isuzu(GM) a few CAT's and Yanmar(JD) diesel engines...

BUT...

I have NEVER heard of changing injector pump oil

Most of the name brand fuel injection pumps (Bosch, Roosa-Master, Stanadyne, Kiki, Lucas, etc.) on the bigger name brand engines will have their lubrication provided by the engine's oil system.

The tolerances in the Chinese pumps are much on par with the other manufacturers. They have to be, because there are no seals of any kind in the barrel and plunger assembly, only the lapped tolerance. The oil in the pump's sump serves to lubricate only the governor (common sump), the fuel transfer pump, the rack, and the pump shaft. The barrel and plunger assemblies get their lubrication from the fuel oil.

 

[3RRL]

Maybe I have lived a sheltered life, only having been around International(Ford), Isuzu(GM) a few CAT's and Yanmar(JD) diesel engines...

BUT...

I have NEVER heard of changing injector pump oil

Kenny,
Yes, we have to do it on our tractors.
It is a recommended procedure to check the injector pump oil regularly and also to change it it at least once a year.
These pumps have their own reservoirs of only 8oz or so. I believe yours may use the engine oil for lubrication (like many tractors) and so every time you change that, the injector pump gets fresh oil too. So you never need to do what we need to do, but in fact it is being done.
My post was directed (of course) at the other Jinma tractor owners which need to do the same, since there is a specific procedure for it unrelated and separate from engine oil changes. It was not intended to be a general information post relative to all tractors, nor does it apply to all.

 

[3RRL]

As an update on the drain plugs on this injector pump, Ronald from Ranch Hand Supply informed me there are two drain plugs. I had asked him where it was with this photo and he told me it was the one labeled "2ND DRAIN PLUG".
He said to drain that also since it lets out a little more oil.

 

[Bob Rooks]

That's the governor. The sumps are in common, so use the lowest one.

 

[redneckford]

Kenny---- I know this is a cut chinese thread BUT!!!! have you ever seen a sims injection pump on the old 3000,5000,6600 and 5900 FORD Tractors. The oil has to be changed in them every 300 hours or so just like these little tractors. The oil gets deluted by the by-pass tolerance in the barrel and plunger area and if not change regularly it will cause the pump to seize up. There is no pressured oil supply to these pumps like it is on the newer 6610 models. I have seen several seized pumps in the last 30 years. They say that no one told them to change the oil in the pump. I point out the page in the operators manual and ask them if they read the book before operating the tractor. A little bit of research can solve alot of failures. Yours and mine!!!

 

[allen6634]

Kenny---- I know this is a cut chinese thread BUT!!!! have you ever seen a sims injection pump on the old 3000,5000,6600 and 5900 FORD Tractors. The oil has to be changed in them every 300 hours or so just like these little tractors. The oil gets deluted by the by-pass tolerance in the barrel and plunger area and if not change regularly it will cause the pump to seize up. There is no pressured oil supply to these pumps like it is on the newer 6610 models. I have seen several seized pumps in the last 30 years. They say that no one told them to change the oil in the pump. I point out the page in the operators manual and ask them if they read the book before operating the tractor. A little bit of research can solve alot of failures. Yours and mine!!!

this information makes me wonder about all my friends that have bought a foton tractor, it seems that in very short order they are having injector pump problems, i think i found out why all my friends where losing clutches, i have been passing this knowledge on and now i will add the fuelm pump oil change. i never imagined that i would see anything like this on here when i joined (mainly i needed help with my 600 ford ). lots on smart people on here .

 

[Bob Rooks]

The pumps aren't machined as tight as the name brands. It dilutes with fuel over time. That's why we change it. and oil is cheap.

The pumps are machined every bit as "tight" as the name brands. And if you are referring to IH, Case, Ford, Cat, whoever, as name brands, not one of them make their own fuel injection pumps. You should get out more. :laughing:
I don't care whose pump it is, they ALL leak by because there has to be a sliding fit tolerance, and there are no seals because they would be useless under 2,200 psig.

 

[Bob Rooks]

The "Name Brands" DO NOT have a separate oil reserve in them They are lubricated by fuel...That is ULSD is bad for older engines with mechanical fuel injector pumps and a additive should be used to increase "lubricity"

THE ONLY PARTS THAT ARE LUBRICATED BY FUEL ARE THE BARREL AND PLUNGER ASSEMBLIES, THE INDIVIDUAL HIGH PRESSURE PUMPS! Many, but not all, fuel injection pump/governor assemblies have their own oil sumps. This is at the discretion of the engine manufacturer, and it is not a complicated task to convert to engine oil lubricated sumps, and recommended regular oil analysis can detect fuel cross-contamination, not your nose.

 

[sd455dan]

Kenny---- I know this is a cut chinese thread BUT!!!! have you ever seen a sims injection pump on the old 3000,5000,6600 and 5900 FORD Tractors. The oil has to be changed in them every 300 hours or so just like these little tractors. The oil gets deluted by the by-pass tolerance in the barrel and plunger area and if not change regularly it will cause the pump to seize up. There is no pressured oil supply to these pumps like it is on the newer 6610 models. I have seen several seized pumps in the last 30 years. They say that no one told them to change the oil in the pump. I point out the page in the operators manual and ask them if they read the book before operating the tractor. A little bit of research can solve alot of failures. Yours and mine!!!

first let me say I totally agree - the oil should be checked and changed per maintenance schedule,

But to use my 554 Rhino/Shanghai as an example, it has an inline pump (like the Simms on my Ford 3000)

When I purchased it, I noticed that it had no Breather cap and just a bolt . I pulled the bolt and removed the drain plug just a few drops of condensation and a few drops of rusty oil...

Apparently the factory assembled it this way- OOPS, and it was never checked (dad had it serviced at a local tractor dealership) When asked he said Knew nothing about changing the injector pump oil and that he didn't recall there being anything in the manuals about it

So with 20 years of running, and over a thousand hours run time the only ill effect was a slightly sticky rack..

Flushed it out, and changed out the fluid as needed since then, staying nice and clean now.

Bought the correct breather cap, my Ford always dilutes the injector pumps oil (but it does have many more hours).

The Rhino- even after all those years of use with no oil at all- and it does not dilute or leak any oil.

In this case- good Chinese injector pump quality, but no breather- and a bolt instead Can't vent and yet no blown seals or gaskets, and missed maintenance

as far as the pump seizing up - it wouldn't be due to the plunger assemblies- as has been mentioned they are lubed by the diesel itself -

but the bearings that support pump crank shaft and governor - that is an area where the oil is needed and somehow this one survived

The manuals were missing, and never did find dads originals for this Rhino-

so after purchasing them and finding the breather part#,

There is not one word about changing the injector pump oil- or ANY injector pump lube maintenance of any kind, in any of the 3 manuals... go figure, it seems to be the only glaring omission So if your in doubt, check it out- sometimes manuals don't have everything covered

in my case thank goodness for the Ford 3000s manual ... and good old TBN :thumbsup: