2012 5105M

[Tul01]

Just wanted to update on our 5105M. About 60hrs so far, very impressed overall. One problem that will need adjusting is it pops out of 540 economy pto. Regular speed is fine. Not overly concerned, will get it adjusted correctly it has to go back to get the creeper installed. We weren't sure if we needed it when we ordered it and prepared for the possibility of adding it later. Some of the changes I have done so far include moving the interior mirror down to the right front pillar to give a better view behind when on the road, versus using it to look at the attachment. Added a rain cap to the exhaust, I love the nostalgia of it. Made up some mud flaps. Moved the bracket for the tool box over to right side of loader frame(goes upside down) but now allows jerry cans, other wise would have had to use a hose to fuel up. Have since added the john deere rear wiper kit, very good instructions.

Looking forward to trying it with the 4 bottom plow we picked up. Have to wait for drier weather. Enough rain for standing water everywhere. Just waiting for the mosquito invasion now.

Brent

 

[Tul01]

Sorry apparently all the photos turned sideways. I have no idea why. Perhaps because I made them smaller?

 

[AKfish]

Well... even sideways - I like lookin' at JD pictures! :thumbsup: You've been busy - tryin' this a little different and then addin' that - to your 105M.

Gives me somethin' to think about... (that inside cab mirror - is almost a waste of time.) Mounted like you've done gives it some function!

AKfish

 

[MWRR]

Welcome to the 5105M family. I too agree about the mirror issue.
The only issue I have had so far is I had one of the loader hydraulic fittings start leaking. Tightened that up.
I have a fuel leak on the hose clamp at the bottom of the fuel tank. Haven't took time to tighten that up yet.
I will make appointment tomorrow for 100 hr service.

I'm trying to find a seat cover but can't found anything I like. Still have the orginal plastic cover on. Does anyone else have any suggestions for a nice, well fitted seat cover?

Any suggestions on how to chain down the tractor on the trailer without scratching off the paint on the axles?

 

[Bigfoot62]

. . . Some of the changes I have done so far include moving the interior mirror down to the right front pillar to give a better view behind when on the road, versus using it to look at the attachment. Added a rain cap to the exhaust, I love the nostalgia of it. Made up some mud flaps. Moved the bracket for the tool box over to right side of loader frame(goes upside down) but now allows jerry cans, other wise would have had to use a hose to fuel up. Have since added the john deere rear wiper kit, very good instructions. . .

Brent,
Nice job on the "improvements" to your M.
Like you, I like the flapper on the exhaust. I've actually thought about it myself.
Good idea on the mirror, although I can't do that on mine. That's where the monitor mounts for my hay baler.
Never thought about the tool box, but I have a bulk fuel tank and pump here.

My M has nearly 300 hours on it with only one warranty issue. The left side hydraulic cylinder on the 3pt hitch had leaked since new. My dealer sent a mechanic and a new cylinder out to my place and changed it. He also did the parking lever recall/update. (on the earlier models) That's it. No other issues.

I think you're gonna like it. :thumbsup:

 

[Bigfoot62]

. . . I'm trying to find a seat cover but can't found anything I like. Still have the orginal plastic cover on. Does anyone else have any suggestions for a nice, well fitted seat cover?

Any suggestions on how to chain down the tractor on the trailer without scratching off the paint on the axles?

If you find a good seat cover, let us know. Mine still has the plastic on it too.

Roll the bucket all the way back and put one chain across it.
Put your other chain over the drawbar.

 

[AKfish]

Welcome to the 5105M family. I too agree about the mirror issue.
The only issue I have had so far is I had one of the loader hydraulic fittings start leaking. Tightened that up.
I have a fuel leak on the hose clamp at the bottom of the fuel tank. Haven't took time to tighten that up yet.
I will make appointment tomorrow for 100 hr service.

I'm trying to find a seat cover but can't found anything I like. Still have the orginal plastic cover on. Does anyone else have any suggestions for a nice, well fitted seat cover?

Any suggestions on how to chain down the tractor on the trailer without scratching off the paint on the axles?

I had a fuel leak, too. A minute or two with a screwdriver on the hose clamp solved that.

Still have the plastic on my seat too. 160 hours now. I'm gonna try that fitted yellow JD seat cover for large seats. Have it on my 110TLB seat and it's workin' just fine - even flippin' the seat back and forth with the backhoe.

I had a small hyd leak on the top of the transaxle where the main hyd line routes back to the rear SCV's. Dealer is gonna fix it this fall - after the haying season... :thumbsup:

Like Bigfoot - I chain mine up and over the drawbar - between the drawbar housing. And I use the center pin on the front weight bracket to chain the front down. I've rubbed the paint off of the weight bracket; but that's better than gouging the front axle - IMO.

AKfish

 

[pclausen]

Any suggestions on how to chain down the tractor on the trailer without scratching off the paint on the axles?

I hook my front hooks into these slots:

And my rear hooks behind the draw bar frame at these points.

I'm still using the same straps from when I had a CUT. Probably time to get some chains and binders.

 

[AKfish]

I hook my front hooks into these slots:

And my rear hooks behind the draw bar frame at these points.

I'm still using the same straps from when I had a CUT. Probably time to get some chains and binders.

Hmm... never looked up there before!! Have to check that out. That's basically the same location that I chain the rear up, too. Although, I use just one 20' 6,500lb chain and binder.

Did you happen to stop off at the weigh station before you came home with your tractor...?

Probably would have had to duct tape over the manufacturer's VIN plate!! :laughing: I'd bet you were at least a 1,000lbs over the trailer limit...

AKfish

 

[Zebrafive]

Any suggestions on how to chain down the tractor on the trailer without scratching off the paint on the axles?

At the rear use the drawbar. Front pin in starter weight if you have one. Other thoughts, firehose or carpet scraps between you chain and axle.
If your loader torque tube is hollow side a chain thru it.

I've been told any implement, including a loader must ALSO be secured.

 

[Zebrafive]

I'm still using the same straps from when I had a CUT. Probably time to get some chains and binders.

I would NEVER trust straps for that heavy a load. As big as your trailer is I am surprised you do not have several chains and binders. The ratcheting ones with removeable handles are on my wish list

 

[Mistyridgefarm]

You guys are killing me with all these pictures of mesmerizing green tractors....

 

[pclausen]

Probably would have had to duct tape over the manufacturer's VIN plate!! :laughing: I'd bet you were at least a 1,000lbs over the trailer limit...

The tractor by itself is 8400 lbs I believe with the rear wheel weights. The bucket I know is ~600 lbs, so that 9000 lbs. Not sure how much the H260 FEL is, but you're right that it is probably more than 200 lbs :laughing:, which is technically all I have left after subtracting the 4,800 lbs weight of the trailer itself from it's 14k gross rating.

I guess I should have gone with a 10ton trailer after all, but then I don't know that my 10 year old 3500 truck would have been up to the task of hauling it.

 

[pclausen]

The ratcheting ones with removeable handles are on my wish list

You mean like these:

Ratchet Binder with Removable Handle | Truck n Tow.com

I like that blue square chain too!

 

[Zebrafive]

You mean like these:

Ratchet Binder with Removable Handle | Truck n Tow.com

I like that blue square chain too!

Yes, I currently have over center chain binders. Some times too loose and one more link on the chain and it takes a cheater to lock.

That blue chain grade 120 is OVERKILL! I use grade 70.

 

[Zebrafive]

The tractor by itself is 8400 lbs I believe with the rear wheel weights. The bucket I know is ~600 lbs, so that 9000 lbs. Not sure how much the H260 FEL is, but you're right that it is probably more than 200 lbs :laughing:, which is technically all I have left after subtracting the 4,800 lbs weight of the trailer itself from it's 14k gross rating.

I guess I should have gone with a 10ton trailer after all, but then I don't know that my 10 year old 3500 truck would have been up to the task of hauling it.

They say since the truck carrys 10-15% tongue weight or 15-25% with a 5th wheel/goose neck. You can actually carry more than the load minus the trailer weight. But still pushing the limit.

If I had something that would pull it I would upgrade from my 14K trailer to either a tri axle or tandum duals in the 20 to 22K range.

 

[pclausen]

Yeah, after seeing the price of the grade 120 stuff, even the 9/32" stuff, I'll likely get some grade 70 5/16".

Good deal on the 15-25% tongue weight on a GN. Didn't realize that. At 25%, that would mean I could have 3500 lbs over the truck rear axle for a total weight of 17,500. Subtracting the 4800 trailer weight would mean I could carry a 12,700 lbs payload.

 

[MWRR]

Thanks for the Pics on where to hook the chains for hauling. They helped a lot!!

 

[AKfish]

Yeah, after seeing the price of the grade 120 stuff, even the 9/32" stuff, I'll likely get some grade 70 5/16".

Good deal on the 15-25% tongue weight on a GN. Didn't realize that. At 25%, that would mean I could have 3500 lbs over the truck rear axle for a total weight of 17,500. Subtracting the 4800 trailer weight would mean I could carry a 12,700 lbs payload.

What's the GCWR for your DuraMax? 24K... My '03 2500 is 22K. I cannot legally MAX out my 15.7K gooseneck - because I'm over the limit on my truck's GCWR.

(I've towed over the limit - for short trips - and hope no one stops short off my front bumper...!! )

My 563SL loader (minus bucket) is 1,988lbs. I'd have to believe that your H260 is at least/if not more as heavy.

IIRC - the 5085M is 8,500lbs with standard tires. Then you have to add in the wheel weights and the bigger tires..

AKfish

 

[pclausen]

From pickuptrucks.com's buyers guide for the 2002 3500, I see this:

--- cut ---
Both the Vortec 8100 and Duramax 6600 Diesel V8 permit towing trailers up to 12,000 pounds; they provide a maximum 22,000-pound gross combined weight rating (GCWR).

With a fifth wheel or gooseneck hitch, trailering capability increases to an astounding 15,800-pound maximum.
--- cut ---

That would seem to indicate that the GCWR would be 25,800 pounds with a GN, just shy of CDL territory.

So my tractor loaded would be about:

8500 tractor
400 wheel weights
200 larger wheels tires
2000 FEL
1000 grapple
12100 total

My Bush Hog 3209 would add another 2600 lbs or so, for a total of 14,700. And the weight of the trailer itself is 4,800, for a grand total of 19,500 plus the truck which is 8,100, making the whole thing come in at 27,600.

Hmm, that takes me over by quite a bit. I was planning on hauling the above combo about 3 miles down the back road about once a month to maintain about 30 acres.

Perhaps I should just drive the tractor there directly? It would be quicker than loading/unloading the tractor, but I'm worried about tire wear being that its all black top.