2185 oil use WAY up this year

[JTKub]

I agree with the fellas above. Going through all the work to get to that reed valve breather seems like more trouble than it's worth.

 

[Ford tractor]

Your symptions of rapid oil consumption strangely coinciding with little/no blue smoke are the same symptoms I had and hence the reason for my previous valve guide inspection advice (also listed below as #2).

Here are three things that I would investigate BEFORE looking at the breather:

1) Up until mid 2004 (not sure when the problem first started), Kohler had an issue with headbolts stretching. This caused a series of problems (including oil consumption). The fix was new headbolts that are thicker shafts, but the same diameter/thread as the old ones.

2) To a lesser extent also at this time, there sounds like there was some different types of sproadic valve guide problems. These valve guides are steel press-ins into the aluminum head. In my situation, the rocker bolts loosened causing undue stress on a valve guide which shattered causing rapid oil consumption and little/no blue smoke (the same symptoms strangely occur at the sametime that you describe).

3) Since the early 2000s, Kolhler is now using a rubber seal on the exhaust valve guide as well as the intake valve guide. I suspect that in the 1990s, neither valve guide had a rubber seal on it (I don't know that for sure though). Those rubber seals prevent oil from passing into the combustion chamber and burning.

My mower is from the late 90's. 98 or 99. I forget which. The parts blow-up on the Messicks website does not show a removable valve guide. The kohler manual for the engine also does not show a removable valve guide, just the ability to ream 0.01 over and buy larger stem valves. It does not show any umbrella seals, but does show a seal on the intake. It's possible that the seal is shot allowing high vacuum to suck oil into the combustion chamber.

I was actually looking forward to it being a simple press in valve guide replacement. Rats. Now I'm hoping it's the breather and not the guide as that probably would need 2 heads to replace it. $102 each. Ouch.

Cub Cadet 2185?Tractor?S/N?326 Genuine Parts

 

[Ford tractor]

I think if you do decide to pull the carb, cylinder head shrouds, ect to get to the breather you will ask your self afterwards,now what did I do that for? Something that is not published about Kohler engines is if a head gasket is loose the engine will consume oil. Since you said the engine only has 400 hours on it this may be your problem. Can you hear a hissing sound when the engine is running? Have you done a compression test? If you do not have a compression gauge and do not want to buy a cheap one at HF one can be rented at Auto Zone, O'Rileys or Advance. I would highly recommend a compression test before starting any type repair. If you remove the rocker arm covers look down inside the valve spring on the intake valve to where the valve stem enters the head, are the valve guide seals intact?

Did a compression test. "Drivers" side cylinder 140 psi dry / 150 wet.
"passenger" side cylinder 40 psi dry / 140 wet. Ouch. 40 is a problem!

The driver side plug was a light brown, the pass side was covered with residue and nearly shorting.Looks a lot like either stuck rings or more likely a broken ring / worn cylinder.

Dern.

I did run a couple oz of thin lubricating oil into both cylinders and will see if that helps it out any after mowing later today. Heavy fog and wet grass now.

 

[Gator6x4]

Could also be loose head bolts, or a blown head gasket on the passsenger side. At 400 hours the cylinder should not be worn, a ring could have broken. The head bolts should be torqued to 30 foot pounds if memory serves. If you have a torque wrench you could check the torque.

 

[Ford tractor]

Will do the torque check.

 

[Ford tractor]

Torque went up to 30 ft-lb and no sign of the bolts moving.

I must say that the inside of the engine is pristine. Not a bit of grundge in there. I also like the rocker arm covers made of thick plastic with a formed seal area. Easy to pop off and easy to pop on.


But, it looks like there must be a serious issue needing correcting in the engine. Probably a broken ring. Rats.

I still am amazed that the cost to rebuild this little 2 cylinder is the same as a 350 chevy! What is up with that??

 

[CJ-8_Jim]

My mower is from the late 90's. 98 or 99. I forget which. The parts blow-up on the Messicks website does not show a removable valve guide. The kohler manual for the engine also does not show a removable valve guide, just the ability to ream 0.01 over and buy larger stem valves. It does not show any umbrella seals, but does show a seal on the intake. It's possible that the seal is shot allowing high vacuum to suck oil into the combustion chamber.

I was actually looking forward to it being a simple press in valve guide replacement. Rats. Now I'm hoping it's the breather and not the guide as that probably would need 2 heads to replace it. $102 each. Ouch.

Cub Cadet 2185?Tractor?S/N?326 Genuine Parts

What's the Kohler engine model # and serial #?

My Kohler service manual covers 18hp (like yours) and was originally written in 1992 (before your engine was built).

 

[highboy1975]

well maybe you should just put a smallblock chev in there. post pics when your done.

 

[Ford tractor]

well maybe you should just put a smallblock chev in there. post pics when your done.

Say! Now that's a thought! I have one that's not being used right now. 350 4 bolt mains, 9:1 compression, iron heads. Bought the long block new with all tin and the distributor and water pump (no alt or manifolds) from GM for $1150. It now has an edelbrock4V, cam, etc and is making around 300 hp. Should make cutting the grass go a bit quicker, eh?


No, I don't think the front axle is up to the task. :laughing:

 

[highboy1975]

darn, that could have been alot of fun.