220v outlet for welder powered by (2) 20 amp breakers

[GeneV]

Yes,it will double the power. 110volt x 20 amps = 2200 watts . 220 volts x 20 amps = 4400 wats. It isn't a "royal pain" at all for an electrician to run a bigger wire to the garage. Hire one. The fact you have GFIs make this impossible,the fact you don't know electrical make's it foolish to circumvent GFIs in order to do it.

It would be a royal pain for the electrician as well, hence he would charge me accordingly, but that's a moot point. I don't need an electrician just to add an outlet to an existing circuit...I've done plenty of that (and more) in my 48 years and I'm still alive to tell the tale, and have yet to burn down any of my houses I've lived in.

What do you mean by "circumvent GFIs" and why would it be impossible to do this with them in place?

 

[GeneV]

Actually, another thought here about gfci's...so I know they're code for 110v outlets in the garage. I don't think they're required for 220v though, kind of strange actually. Any of you have 220v gfci's?

 

[k0ua]

Lets put it this way. the number 12 wire you now have in place is probably a bit "light" EVEN on 240 volts. It will do, but at the higher welding currents, you are on the edge for sure. You need to wire for number 10 wire at a minimum with breaker at 30 amps at 240 volts.

Now as for using 120 volts and a 20 amp breaker, will it work? sure. but the usage will be limited to low welding currents. I doubt you could correctly burn 1/8 inch 7018 at 125 amps which is where it needs to run. You will be able to burn small rods that take less current to correctly weld with. BUT you will never get the performance out of your welder you really want. It will be a lightweight sheet metal welder at 120 volts feed. So in my opinion forget about the 120 volt capability except when you are using the welder as a portable with very limited power resources. But don't expect full utilization of the welder at 120 volts.

You can certainly try the welder with what you have in the way of the existing number 12 wire, and put in a 240 volt breaker that takes up two slots, and see if it meets your expectations. You will be able to burn that 125 amp 7018 rod with that, but you may run into breaker tripping if you try to burn a 1/8 inch 7014 at 140 amps. Your right at the edge, and larger wire and a bigger 240 volt breaker is probably the best course of action. DO NOT get the bright idea of getting a 30 amp breaker and staying with the number 12 wire. That is a no no.

 

[k0ua]

Totally forget about the 240 volt GFCI's on welding circuits.. Just get that out of your head. I have never seen a welding circuit with a GFCI

 

[k0ua]

Remember, what is the purpose of a breaker or fuse? It is to protect the wiring. when excessive current is drawn to the point that the wire would overheat, then the breaker should trip to protect the wiring so that it does NOT overheat and possibly cause a fire.

 

[k0ua]

All that being said, you didn't give us the make and model of the welder you intend to install. We could then have looked at its manual for more information about input power supply needs. All things being equal an inverter based welder is more power efficient than a conventional transformer based welder. So stated another way, an inverter welder will draw less current from the supply circuit to make a given welding current.

 

[GeneV]

Lets put it this way. the number 12 wire you now have in place is probably a bit "light" EVEN on 240 volts. It will do, but at the higher welding currents, you are on the edge for sure. You need to wire for number 10 wire at a minimum with breaker at 30 amps at 240 volts.

Now as for using 120 volts and a 20 amp breaker, will it work? sure. but the usage will be limited to low welding currents. I doubt you could correctly burn 1/8 inch 7018 at 125 amps which is where it needs to run. You will be able to burn small rods that take less current to correctly weld with. BUT you will never get the performance out of your welder you really want. It will be a lightweight sheet metal welder at 120 volts feed. So in my opinion forget about the 120 volt capability except when you are using the welder as a portable with very limited power resources. But don't expect full utilization of the welder at 120 volts.

You can certainly try the welder with what you have in the way of the existing number 12 wire, and put in a 240 volt breaker that takes up two slots, and see if it meets your expectations. You will be able to burn that 125 amp 7018 rod with that, but you may run into breaker tripping if you try to burn a 1/8 inch 7014 at 140 amps. Your right at the edge, and larger wire and a bigger 240 volt breaker is probably the best course of action. DO NOT get the bright idea of getting a 30 amp breaker and staying with the number 12 wire. That is a no no.

Nooooo, I know enough to not slap in bigger breakers on smaller wire! :shocked:

I'm not going to be doing anything crazy with this welder, just 3/32 rods, 6010/11, 6013, 7014...I'm throwing this out like I'm some expert welder lol, but I'm new to stick welding, that's just what I've been reading this welder does ok on even on 110v per youtube and elsewhere I found people writing stuff. If I could do a little more than ok with 220 (20 amp), I'd be happy.

 

[GeneV]

All that being said, you didn't give us the make and model of the welder you intend to install. We could then have looked at its manual for more information about input power supply needs. All things being equal an inverter based welder is more power efficient than a conventional transformer based welder. So stated another way, an inverter welder will draw less current from the supply circuit to make a given welding current.

I did on the last page, it's Amico ARC-160D. I appreciate all your input on here k0ua, it's very helpful.

 

[k0ua]

sorry, missed the brand and model number.... Ok, here are the pertinant specs, at least on Amazon.:Rated Input Voltage: AC 100~250V; Frequency: 50~60Hz; Rated Input Power: 230V/6.7KVA/29.3A & 115V/4.7KVA/41A; Current Range, 230V: 5-160 Amp & 115V: 5-130

As you can see, for max output you will need 29.3A on 230 volts and would have to have a 41 amp circuit on 115 volts and even then it would not develope full power according to the KVA rating. Likely if your circuit runs more to 240 volts as many do here in America, it might draw a bit less. And again, most 1/8 rods will need less than 160 amps to run good. The 7014 1/8 runs pretty good at 140, and the 7018 runs good at 122 to 125. Depending on welder. While it says it will burn a 1/8 rod at 130 amps on 120 volts, you must always take ratings with a little skepticism. Of course it IS an inverter so the efficiency will be much higher than a transformer machine.

As stated before, you could run with your existing wiring and a 20 amp 240 volt breaker and see how it does. Of course with the smaller rods, you are not going to have any problem at all, and likely will do just fine with some 7018 up to 1/8 and you could certainly try some 7014 (monkey rod) at 140. Of course like any other welder, these "amp" settings are just where you start. You will always have to go up or down a little with settings depending on how your machine runs. No two machines run alike. Watch the puddle, and you will soon have a feel for "too hot" and "too cold".

 

[k0ua]

In General, as an Engineering practice, I don't like to run things (anything) "balls to the wall". What a machine WILL do and what you SHOULD do are often two different things. Yes the welder will likely burn rods at 160 amps. But for how long? The Engineering department and the marketing/sales department are always at war. Just like the Submaring captain that calls down to the engine room and says "I need more speed, go to 105 percent on the reactor. BUT Captain we are already at 105 percent on the reactor. THEN GIVE ME 110 percent! "... Ok.. fine but there is a limit to anything. And I have found thru the years if you back off of stated limits equipment tends to last a lot longer and the happiness quotient is usually higher.