2305 vs 2520 vs 3320 - Need advice

[al3]

Always a dilemma----where to stop in the Deere line-up. Certainly seems like their pricing structure was made to inflict as much anxiety as possible with respects to moving up to the next unit.

Tires----R4 can leave more pronounced marks in some lawns than turfs. I drive across sandy grass and the R4s will lift grass in 2wd, particularly if more than one pass is made. Can minimize it by being careful about turns, but it still happens. Unit was delivered with turfs & used them for several weeks before dealer got R4s. Didn’t give up as much traction in dry conditions & FEL work as I thought they would. If I were using it primarily for mowing finished lawn, turfs would be preferred, with a set of chains for winter snow removal. This is very sandy soil; don’t think it would be as pronounced in clay/hardpan.

Size. What sort of terrain will you be brush hogging? The ground clearance is different on the models you listed, so slide under each and take a look at exposed components and decide what will work for you. Do you plan to transport you future tractor? Weight can make a difference, depending on the type of tow vehicle you now own (or plan to own). Driving across a leach field often?

I sometimes wish I had more HP----loader capacity and rotary cutter size. Then again, I paid for all my implement (BB, cutter, forks, ballast) with the dollars not spent in upsizing. So it now takes a few more trips to move the class 5 and time to mow the fire breaks. One thing it can’t do is move fully loaded pallets of some items. If this were a recurring requirement additional FEL capacity would be a must.

Good luck---BTW, consider adding your geographical location to your profile; might make answers more relevant.

 

[Lobo56]

I agree we you on turf tires, have the turf tires on my 2210 and have never been stuck. Had 20" of snow in one drop this year and still didn't get stuck when clearing it. You put you rear ballast bucket on, and you can plow or snow blow all day and never get stuck. My Father-in- law had to have industrial tires on he’s 2210; you should see he’s lawn. If you have any trees or bed to go around you’re going to cut the lawn up pretty bad.

 

[friedlake]

Hello Dirt!

Just my two cents!

Go R4's( they look good to!)

2520 has many advantages over the 2320. 15ft.lbs of torque. Hydraulic flow is doubled. Has direct injection engine and runs at a lower range (1000-2750 rpm) than the 2320 (1270-3170rpm).

I have looked at the 3320 also. Wow what a machine! Just to big for what I need around here. I finnish mow about 2.5acres, clear a lot of snow in the winter and fetch a lot of fire wood every year. I found the 2520 to be a perfect fit and will accomadate a decent size hoe ( 46) in the future. I am trading in my 4010 for 2520. 4010 is a great machine and has done all of the above but the hydraulic flow is to slow for 3pth splitter and I need (or want ) a good size bh.
Also look into a rear finnish mower. Half the cost of the mmm to help with budget issues!

If you don't need mid pto and want more tractor you may ( as mentioned before) want to look at the 790. Very capable machine. I looked at it because the Hp vs. cost was so attractive. Ruled it out in the end simply because of the collar shift. I am used to hst and really like it.

Best of Luck!

Here are some pic's of the property the 4010 soon to be 2520 looks after!!

 

[friedlake]

Forgot to mention the trailer. Going from 2520 to 3320 presents quit a difference in towing needs. I can tow the 2520 behind my 05 GMC Z71 on a 6X12 ( 3500lb axle ) with little difficulty. 3320 or even 790 are much larger and require a new trailer to tow. Talk about stretching the budget and the wife's nerves!!!

another house pic

 

[friedlake]

back of house

 

[aesanders]

I'd get the 2305. Sounds like you would have a hard time taxing this machine with your list of chores. The 3.5 acres to bushog once or twice a year will be no problem for it. Everyting else you mentioned, the 2305 will do just as well as the 2520. As a mower (which sounds like the majority of use it will get), I like it better than the 2520. Yes the limited 3 point hitch limits you on some attachments, but the sub compacts have quite a few implements designed for them.

 

[jd2210]

I wonder how much of our difference of opinion with regards to tires has to do with the difference in soil types. I know of some relatives in MB who can go all day any time on their lawns with industrial tires and there are no problems. On my lawn I would need to buy a good lawn roller to tow behind me to straighten out everything I'd ruin. You probably have a much firmer base than me you lucky dog.

 

[ddivinia]

I am on coastal bermuda.

D.

 

[BloomingtonMike]

I have a 3320. Those that say it is not the perfect mower have not mowed with one. It is awesome with the 72" 7-iron deck. I would venture it will mow as well as any other tractor mowers. For moving snow I love it as well - espically with a 72" front blade. Full on wet snow is very heavy. Maybe others are using a much smaller front blade? I guess it depends on your use. Also you really want to get above PTO 25HP for many of the bigger tillers - >60". Buy the right tractor the first time. These boys cost as much as a car or more.

I am voting 3320 and 300CX, 72" mower either MMM or rear, and 60" tiller. Not too mention the boxblade, rear blade, rear rake - all will make the list!

 

[Dirt32T]

Wow!! Thanks for all of the replies. Your input have been great!

I am leaning towards the 2520. After researching some of the specs, it stands out. One item I noticed is hydraulic power, what a difference from the 2305 to the 2520. I do plan on a sweeper (500' asphalt driveway) and a 3pt wood splitter.

I do think the 3320 will be overkill for my needs, but I don't want to be cut short.

Thanks to everyone for the input so far, I am looking forward to some more opinions.

Thanks,
Tim