2320-Got Stuck Today!

[Pushing_Tin]

Your not stuck, you just think you are, next time just twist it out with a chain, take a heavy chain, attach it to the OUTSIDE of the rear wheel and the other end to a tree, put the tractor in reverse then VERY gently ease the thottle forward, the chain will start twisting and pull you backwards. DO NOT attach the chain to the inside around the axle. I've done this a bunch over the years.

I don't understand, how do you attach it to the outside?

 

[AKfish]

I've seen chains used on the axle of large, ag-type machines that the chain can twist around and as it shortens up, will pull the tractor out. But, you need that axle stickin' out beyond the rim.

Ag machines have longer axles for moving the wheel in-out or mounting another tire == dual rear wheels.

Also, if you don't have a rear fender in the way; you can chain a short piece of log to the bottom of your tire and it will lift you out of some bad spots, too.

Like others, the idea of hittin' that stump with your loader made me cringe and squirm in my seat... The money you'll spend replacin' your FEL could be used to rent a good-sized track hoe (excavator) with thumb to yard those stumps out.

Gotta say -- lookin' at your pics -- I'd sure like to have some soft mud to play in, too! Still have plenty of snow and frozen ground here.

Best of luck with your home site projects.

AKfish

 

[johnnydel29]

Based on what I am hearing and from what I saw from the pics, I would save yourself fuel, wear and tear on your machine and pay someone 400 bucks for the day to run a dozer and exavator to pull those stumps. When you see those machines in action, you'll realize that this is the right thing to do.

I was in a similar situation when we bought our lot - thinking I can get a head start by clearing it w/ my brand new 2305, instead I ended up damaging the trans hydro fan and beating on the the loader & machine. Then, the dozer and exavator came through and the lot was cleared in 2 hours.

I know what you are trying to accomplish may seem fun, but it may end up costing you a lot of time, money and possible headaches.

 

[Pushing_Tin]

Based on what I am hearing and from what I saw from the pics, I would save yourself fuel, wear and tear on your machine and pay someone 400 bucks for the day to run a dozer and exavator to pull those stumps. When you see those machines in action, you'll realize that this is the right thing to do.

I was in a similar situation when we bought our lot - thinking I can get a head start by clearing it w/ my brand new 2305, instead I ended up damaging the trans hydro fan and beating on the the loader & machine. Then, the dozer and exavator came through and the lot was cleared in 2 hours.

I know what you are trying to accomplish may seem fun, but it may end up costing you a lot of time, money and possible headaches.

Good thoughts from all of you. I think you're right about just hiring somebody or renting the proper equipment, maybe just a large stump grinder. I'll have to wait a few months until it dries out though. Hope I didn't damage my tractor! If I did damgage the FEL, is it obvious?

 

[AKfish]

Park your tractor on a nice level spot --- paved street or concrete pad i.e. garage.

Level up your bucket and float it to the concrete or asphalt surface. Does the bucket edge touch the surface of the pad all along the cutting edge; evenly? Or is one edge just a tad higher than the other side of the bucket? (The surface of the road or garage pad can be uneven and this might make the cutting edge of your bucket appear out of kilter, so a note of caution.)

Slowly lift up the bucket. Does the bucket lift from both loader arms at more or les the same time? Or does one loader arm jump-engage just slightly before the other arm?

If you can answer a definite Yes to both questions -- you just might very well have a "tweaked" front end loader.

Best of luck.

AKfish

 

[Pushing_Tin]

Park your tractor on a nice level spot --- paved street or concrete pad i.e. garage.

Level up your bucket and float it to the concrete or asphalt surface. Does the bucket edge touch the surface of the pad all along the cutting edge; evenly? Or is one edge just a tad higher than the other side of the bucket? (The surface of the road or garage pad can be uneven and this might make the cutting edge of your bucket appear out of kilter, so a note of caution.)

Slowly lift up the bucket. Does the bucket lift from both loader arms at more or les the same time? Or does one loader arm jump-engage just slightly before the other arm?

If you can answer a definite Yes to both questions -- you just might very well have a "tweaked" front end loader.

Best of luck.

AKfish

Thanks fish, the tractor is out at the property, so I won't be able to test it until tomorrow. If it is damaged what does a repair entail?

 

[AKfish]

First off... if you had seriously damaged your FEL -- you wouldn't be wondering if there was a problem! You'd know it 'cause your loader would be seriously outta kilter. One arm would be significantly higher or skewed off to the left or right of the other arm. As in BENT!

Generally, you can see the nature of the problem by lookin' at the bucket. If it's got a big honkin' dent in it some place or it's got a saggy curve in the cutting edge -- odds are high that there might be a loader arm or cylinder that's had some damage as well.

By the very nature of working any piece of equipment - things get a bit out of alignment and/or worn. Same thing with your loader. It's not always gonna lift in a synchronous fashion. One hydraulic cylinder may wear out and loose some pressure or even begin leaking. That will make the loader arms out of sync with each other. That's not the end of the world. And it doesn't mean that you have to replace the loader or even involve major repairs, necessarily. (Now, if a cylinder is really off par (weak) or leaking badly, you'll need to rebuild it.)

If you'll dig into your owner's manual, there should be a section on adjusting your loader. If things are just a wee bit out of alignment --- adjusting the loader mounts can make things good again.

Best of luck.

AKfish

 

[VABlue]

Ramming the target has been discussed, but one other thing I saw was the WOT when trying to pull out of the mud. While this is no where near the seriousness of ramming, there's no need for a WOT in that situation. You're already getting full hydro pressure when that diesel is idling, and no more as you open up the throttle. Yeah, more revs will keep you from bogging down the engine when you need more power, but I suspect the wheels were spinning freely well before you would have needed the extra oomph. With my 2305 I've found the power range to be right around 2K RPM - no more bogging under load and still moves fast enough. You're 2320 should be about the same given they have the same engine.

Just a note on engine wear and fuel consumption...

 

[AKfish]

VABlue -- good point.... most uses for a tractor involve torque --- power to move mass.

Generally, diesel engines develop the most torque at several hundred rpm's less than WOT.

I recall that on my old Yanmar powered JD 970, the peak torque rpm was around 1900. So, if I was gonna be pullin' my Landpride ripper, I'd set the throttle at 2,000 with no load. So, that as soon as the ripper hit the ground, it'd likely drop a 100 or so rpm and settle in right at the "sweet spot" on the torque curve.

AKfish

 

[Pushing_Tin]

Thanks for the feedback guys, your advice is appreciated. Here is the update. The FEL is tweaked, it's about 3/4 of an inch higher on the left side, and it touches down early on the right side. I used the tractor quite a bit today and it didn't seem to effect it as far as I could tell. The ground dried out quite a bit so I tackled the stump again....I didn't ram it this time, I took my shovel and dug all around it so it would be looser and I could get the FEL under more of it. It only took about 5 minutes and I got it out, and I didn't get stuck! Here are pics taken a few hours ago.