2320 - How do i stop this leak

[thatguy]

Is the nut loose? Don't twist it off trying to make sure. You could remove the nut and add a lead washer then torque down or wrap with teflon close tot he case and tighten the nut. You might remove the nut and look for cracks in the case.

Dan

The nut is NOT loose.. I can get a wrench on it and make a VERY slight turn, but it was tight

Based on where the nut is, Im not sure how to remove it - without taking a lot of other stuff off.. the only two options I can think of (which I havent tried because I would need to buy tools, and I was waiting until I got advise from here) is either a wrench with a socket end OR a universal joint socket extension..



b

 

[taborekle]

If the oil is leaking from the end of the nut, then I've always had good luck with plumbers goop. Remove the nut and coat the threads with the goop, then reset the nut and it it dry before running the tractor. If the leak is coming from between the nut at the washer its up against, then no clue.

Congratulations! This is a excellent opportunity to add to your tool chest. Socket wrench time. Merry Christmas. :thumbsup:

Larry

 

[thatguy]

thatguy,
I am completely stumped as to what this could be. Went on-line at JD to see if I could find some reference to the "nut" and came up empty handed. Maybe you can find it. Short of me take my 2320 apart it seemed the best idea. Probably something really simple.
John Deere - Parts Catalog

I looked at the part diagram the other night as well, but didnt see anything that I recognized as being it

This is the closest thing I can find - I THINK.. BUT its only because of the solenoid (Part #1) shown in the diagram.. Everything is looking at it from a different angle..

I uploaded another pic with the solenoid marked.. BUT in the diagram I cant tell how those different parts interact..

 

[thatguy]

On this diagram look a the nut i have marked.. I think this is the general area of the leak but we are looking at it from the rear

 

[thatguy]

Just a thought..

IF my pressure relief/overflow for the hydraulics was blocked - could that make a leak?

I found the overflow under the seat, but I dont know how to check it..

b

 

[Gizmo2]

I looked at the part diagram the other night as well, but didnt see anything that I recognized as being it

This is the closest thing I can find - I THINK.. BUT its only because of the solenoid (Part #1) shown in the diagram.. Everything is looking at it from a different angle..

I uploaded another pic with the solenoid marked.. BUT in the diagram I cant tell how those different parts interact..

Sort of thinking #25?

 

[Gary Fowler]

I am thinking that the gasket thru which that bolt goes has a leak that is permeating thru the bolt. If that is the case, it looks like a very time consuming repair. You might try the lead washer trick to seal the bolt,nut washer into a tight joint. I have seen not to good plumbers hammer lead mesh into threads of a leaking water pipe coupling to stop a leak rather than replace the pipe. It works even if not acceptable practice.

 

[Gizmo2]

I think I stand corrected. If I really had to guess would would say #1??
Is your fluid level to high?

 

[Egon]

From what I can see it looks like the part the nut/bolt is going thru has electrical cable attchment on the side. ???

Consider it a solenoid???/pressure/level/temperature sensing device that may have an internal leak???

The Above information is incorrect. A result of looking at the wrong Nut. Or maybe a Nut seeing the wrong nut!


You might be able to bend a wrench to fit or try a ratcheting boxend.

Another method might be to use a stubby on it with a bolt with double lock nuts on inserted in the box end part of the stubby??

It looks like #1 on Thatguy's part diagram.

some of best trouble shooting pictures I've seen posted. :thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:

 

[greg_g]

On this diagram look a the nut i have marked.. I think this is the general area of the leak but we are looking at it from the rear

Gasket (#7) has broached, permitting hydraulic fluid to escape via the bolt hole. Cheap part, expensive repair. Could have been defective since new, and just took some time and pressure to eventually broach. If you're no longer under warranty, I'd first get the tools necessary to remove the nut. Then buy (a) a rubberized crush washer and (b) some oil-resistant sealant. Sealant can be found at most auto parts stores, washer at high performance shop or motorcycle shop.

Apply the sealant, install the washer, crush it down with the hex nut. Remove nut, add lock washer, replace nut.

//greg//