2350 hard start after running

[Tx Jim]

Valve on the side of trans by hyd filter is the pressure control valve designed to give the power steering priority hyd pressure over other hyd functions. Disconnecting line in frt of valve will eliminate hyd pressure to scv,FEL valve & 3 pt hitch.

 

[TDIdog]

Valve on the side of trans by hyd filter is the pressure control valve designed to give the power steering priority hyd pressure over other hyd functions. Disconnecting line in frt of valve will eliminate hyd pressure to scv,FEL valve & 3 pt hitch.

Ah. The priority valve. That was my first thought, but it sure doesn't look like any priority valve I've seen on a backhoe. Ok. I'm going to go home and study more on this system now that I have most of the basics figured out.

Thanks for the guidance.

 

[TDIdog]

Tractor showed up at my shop this weekend. It was on the trailer idling for probably half an hour, so I checked the poppet valves to see if they were warm, but they were stone cold. Do you think this steers us away from the poppets being the problem.

 

[Tx Jim]

Tractor showed up at my shop this weekend. It was on the trailer idling for probably half an hour, so I checked the poppet valves to see if they were warm, but they were stone cold. Do you think this steers us away from the poppets being the problem.

Yes if scv are cold to touch I'll guess they're not the hard staring problem.

 

[TDIdog]

Ok, I found a problem. It's probably THE problem, but I don't have it fixed yet.

Starter.

I made the time to dig into it and I started checking the main battery connections doing voltage drops and checking connections. One ground strap was green and frayed and getting warm when cranking, so I built a new one.

I plugged into the SCV ports to check for pressure building up and realized that it wasn't just turning over hard, but came to a complete stop. That's when I realized I had a starter issue. No problem, I'll just pop it right out of there and test it.

It has a loader, so I'm sure you guys know how easy that makes it. I got it unhooked and pulled back, sitting there between the block and loader frame and decided to test it right there.

Starters aren't supposed to sound like gravel in a blender. This I know.

I don't know the way it's supposed to be done, but I found out, I could just remove the bolts at the bellhousing and it would spring out almost enough to get the starter out. A little pry bar action and it came right out.

Now the trick will be finding a starter that will fit. The first one dropped right in without any prying, but the cast ear that mounts the solenoid hits the frame before I bolt down the loader frame, so it's back to the starter shop to see what I can find this morning.

 

[Tx Jim]

TDIdog
Have you considered having your old starter repaired?

 

[TDIdog]

TDIdog
Have you considered having your old starter repaired?

That's what I did. It's in and starts right up every time. Now it's on to servicing it and fixing the leak on the load shaft. As I mentioned earlier, I'm not a farm tractor guy so I didn't know that it's not just a couple of pins where the draft arms attach. Spent a bunch of time trying to figure out that. Finally got an experienced parts guy that knew what I was talking about and the right search terms.

Anyway, changing the starter looks like such a simple job, but I really had to engage my brain quite a bit just getting bolts in and out.

Thanks to everyone for sticking with me on this journey of learning.

 

[beenthere]

Yup, it is not as easy as "dig a little hole, drop in a seed, cover with some dirt, add water and up comes the corn".
Glad you had the chance to reap the rewards of some mechanical success. Enjoy the rest of the ride.

 

[TDIdog]

Yup, it is not as easy as "dig a little hole, drop in a seed, cover with some dirt, add water and up comes the corn".
Glad you had the chance to reap the rewards of some mechanical success. Enjoy the rest of the ride.

Plant seeds, water, collect money. Yeah, farmers sure do have an easy job.