2410 or 2710

[David USMC]

Im really dumb, forgot to use the profile section. Cathy where are you located in NC. If you are around Winston Salem or MT Airy I can really give you some advice on dealers. Either post on the forum or E-Mail me. P.S., most of the info I have on soil compaction came from Dr Mary Peet at NCSU...being a Wolfpack alumni I am of course favorable to her input.LOL

 

[Bird]

JimBinMI, maybe one of these days I'll find a convenient opportunity to weigh my tractor, but in the meantime, I really don't know what it weighs. As far as leaving tire impressions in the lawn? (you'll notice I said "yard"; not "lawn"). I don't have the kind of manicured lawn out here that I had in town. From the road it looks great, but it's actually pretty rough, and I'm sure I have a different kind of soil from what you are accustomed to. It's a black clay that is very soft, muddy, sticks to your shoes, etc. in cultivated ground like my garden. But where it is not plowed, it's firm and solid even when wet. I could drive my pickup across the front yard in a rainstorm and not leave any tracks, except in the grass. When it gets really dry in the summer, big cracks appear, then when it rains, it settles and I have new low spots to haul more dirt from the back of the pasture to fill in (there's no way I can afford the time and money to water about 3 acres of yard and a vegetable garden). And when it's dry, I'm not going to leave much in the way of tractor tracks even though I'm running R1 tires (if I had thought of it when I bought the tractor, I'd have probably specified R4s).

And if Cathy wants a smaller tractor, that's fine. Maybe she'd like it better, and she can find them in blue, green, or orange, and it'll do what she says she's going to do right now, and maybe into the future. However, if she acquires more land later, she may want to trade up, so she might be ahead to buy bigger to start with. Or she might be like me, and price might be a major factor./w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif

Bird

 

[Bird]

Yeah, David, making the rows 5 feet apart does waste a lot of space; however, it makes it easier to till between the rows (I don't like those long handled tools like a hoe!), and I hand water by walking up and down the rows with the wand; serves two purposes, use less water and keeps down the weeds and grass between the rows.

Of course, my garden is really tapering off already this year, partly because I started early and partly because of the grasshopper plague. I only picked 2.5 gallons of black-eyed peas, 5 gallons of cucumbers, 5 gallons of squash, 8 gallons of bell peppers, and 12 gallons of tomatoes this morning (I picked about 4 gallons of tomatoes yesterday; now if I just had someone who'd come pick about that many more tomatoes . ..) And I picked a couple of gallons of okra and 3 gallons of plums yesterday. I finished picking all the corn and mowed down the stalks day before yesterday. And my wife is saying, enough already. She says all her canning jars and the freezers are full, and to plant less next year.

Bird

 

[David USMC]

Bird, I heard a radio report on those grasshoppers. What are you doing to control them. The person interviewed stated that if he used a chemical control there is not a benefit if his neighbor does not do the same thing. Sounds like you have a great garden. I dont consider it wasted space, just wish I could do the same thing. What do the local experts advise on how to deal with the grasshoppers...QQQ

 

[stvman]

Jim; the Tim the tool man taylor comment was a joke!!! Sorry if I offended you.

I know what a diesel will do and not do I live in NH (the granite state, lots of huge hunks of it EVERYWHERE) so maybe I do overkill when I buy equiptment. But I own a 580 case on 1/2 acre and NEVER run out of work to do with it including work for frends and neighbors with small tractors.

I will also reiterate my point, go to any local dealer any brand of compact look at what they have for used equiptment and nine times out of ten, customer upgraded to a LARGER tractor/w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif I dont feel it is a disservice to get the best bang for your buck. If you have a lawn like Ward Cleaver by all means buy a BX, but if you ever plan to do serious work with it any Kubota owner or dealer will tell you it is too small.

Again I had no intention of pushing anyone in the wrong direction just an opinion/w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif/w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif

 

[W5FL]

Cathy,

I grew up on 2 1/2 acres and we had a decent size Farmall tractor to use on the property. It was used to plow, disc, and harrow which is the same thing that a tiller does in one pass. The B2710 and B2910 are really nice tractors and when teamed with a tiller make it possible to plant a nice garden easily. My garden is also 1/4 acre, but that is enough to be a real chore without the correct tools. I can till the garden with a tiller on the tractor and never get off until the job is complete. The ground is so soft, that I planted 16 100 ft rows in about an hour with an inexpensive manual planter with no assistance from anyone else. Had to plant other crops by hand. When you add a loader later, you will really appreciate the size of these tractors as the loader is capable of lifting and/or spreading everything that you will need to do and it makes it possible to do so many things that you only wish you could handle without a tractor.

The other issue that keeps getting brought up is soil compaction. It really is NOT very dependent on the size of the tractor or the weight. It is dependent on the weight of the tractor divided by the footprint of the tractor. Larger tractors have larger tires and the corresponding compaction does not vary nearly as much as you would think.

These are also good mowing tractors too. They are compact in size, but quite powerful to get the jobs done.

Since someone suggested that a smaller tractor might work, Bird provided some good insight since he had one and traded up to the B2710, which he is very satisfied with now. /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif

 

[Alan L.]

Whenever you need to pick up that big rock or move a lot dirt your tractor won't know how many acres you have. More tractor = more work in less time.

Three-point finish mower is less expensive and easier to mow UNDER the trees because you can back it in.

 

[Bird]

David, there have been a lot of concoctions mentioned in the local newspaper for controlling grasshoppers (as is the case with fire ants), but the bottom line seems to be that none of them work very well unless everyone in the area uses them (and that won't happen). I broadcast Logic on the yard a couple of times a year for the fire ants, and I spray Diazinon in and around the shop and around the house to control fire ants, mud daubers, wasps, and spiders, but I've never used any kind of chemicals on the vegetable garden. I'm certainly not opposed to the use of chemicals; I just wanted to try it without and see what would happen and as long as it produces more than we can use, I've continued that way. The grasshoppers destroyed my green beans early this year, so I only had about half as many to give away as normal, but we still had all we could use and gave away some, too. And I'm only getting about a fifth as much black-eyed peas as expected, but again that's all my wife wants to have to can (just another 6 pints yesterday). The last time I sprayed Diazinon around the house, I killed grasshoppers by the hundreds, but the very next day, we had them all around the house again./w3tcompact/icons/frown.gif It does seem that since the big rain last Sunday (3"), we have fewer grasshoppers, and we got another .65" yesterday and it's raining again this morning./w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif

Bird

 

[JimBinMI]

Cathy,

I think you're right about the 22 hp BX, it is an overgrown lawnmower but it seems to fit many people's needs. Did you look at the B7500 (if you must buy Orange), it is 21 hp, larger in size than the BX's, has power steering, I believe more capacity at the 3 pt. than the BX, but I think that I've read here that it lacks position control, maybe someone that knows can comment. Steve Carver advertises the B7500 for $10,000 it appears to be a "best buy" amoung the Kubota's if you look at all the prices.

As far as resale, I believe that the smaller diesels have just as much resale as the larger, just go shop for a 16-21 hp and first see if you can find one, then look at the prices!

If you do a search under B1700 or look for PaulB's posts, he has a B1700, 17 hp not made anymore that he gets a lot of work out of, more than you're posting that you need. I know a lot of these guys post "go bigger" but if that was the case, there would be no market for sub-compact or compact tractors!

Good Luck, I mean it, if you have a New Holland dealer near you be careful...if you go look you might just buy one!

JimBinMI

We boys and our toys!

 

[Cathy]

Bird,
I don't like to use poisons but if I don't I don't think I would have any green beans.Every year the bean beetles munch them down to the stem if I don't dust or spray. I am very interested in your wide row idea & using the tractor instead of the walk behind tiller to cultivate. How much does a cultivator plow cost? This probably sounds really stupid but this is my first tractor so I have alot to learn. I haven't quite understood how you decide how far apart to make the rows & how you get the tractor thru w/o driving over your vegetables. I will read your post again to try to understand it. I have always planted my garden with the rows wide enough to get my tiller between them so I don't have to use that awful hoe anymore than absolutely necessary. I hoe alot less than I should, I usually use my tilller to knock down the majority of weeds. I am almost sure I want the B2710-even though it is orange! I wish it were blue! Now I am mainly trying to decide between 60" & 72 " belly mower. I think I really need a bush hog for the field but can't have everything I want & I am definitely buying a belly mower, just hope the grass in the field doesnt hurt the mower.It isnt rocky & is mostly level.The only time it is real bumpy is when it has been plowed. I wonder if I should mow the field first or disk it since it is full of grass & weeds right now. Also I am going to check the difference between the B2710 & the B2910, if it is VERY close in price I might consider it too. Maybe Rick Jay could tell me how much more he paid for the 30HP than the 27HP My neighbor told me she has some disks she will give me.She says they are rusty, she only used them for one project/ bought them used. Can I get something to remove the rust? I dont know if she has them in her barn or out in the open field getting rust on them. I know the tiller will do a better job but it will give me a way to plow until I am ready to buy the tiller. Then I have to decide what width tiller. I really need to make alot of decisions before I buy everything. I might buy a tractor next week.The implements will have to come later to keep my payment down. I appreciate all the suggestions everyone has offered me. I really have ALOT to learn.

 

[Cathy]

David,
Don't you have to have 10 or more acres to get the tax break? I think a dealer mentioned that to me when I was talking to him about the 7 % sales tax,I only have 2 1/2 acres. I have sold corn at work before & would consider selling corn at the farmers market but I think to get any kind of tax break I would need more acreage. I wish I could think of a way to somehow use the tractor purchase as a tax write off!

 

[David USMC]

Cathy, my dealer never mentioned the 10 acre rule. I'll be on the phone Monday morning. The only thing he said was that if you should be paid a visit you must demonstrate an intent to market agriculture products.

 

[Bird]

Cathy, As far as deciding how far apart to space the rows in the garden, I've just tried experimenting with different spacing. When I had the 17" walk behind tiller, I set out my onions in rows that were only 26" apart and other things 3 to 4 feet apart, but when I got the 40" wide tractor and 40" tiller for it, I spaced the rows 60" apart and could drive between the rows with the little tractor and tiller. Then when I got the B2710 with R1 (ag) tires and my rear tire width is about 54", I spaced the rows closer together this year (actually 47" just because I had a piece of rebar that length handy to use in spacing - very scientific/w3tcompact/icons/wink.gif). Then I used a 6 tine cultivator plow (about $150) on the 3-point and I drive straddling the rows with 3 tines on either side of the row. And yep, if you get careless in your steering . . ., well, I only plowed up about 10' of turnips and a couple of broccoli plants/w3tcompact/icons/frown.gif. The only other problem with that method is the fact that you can only do that until the plants get to be 12" to 18" high so they pass safely under the tractor. Since the garden's produced more than we could use and give away (I even gave some and sold some to a fruit and vegetable stand operator), next year I'm going to make the spacing about 72" so I can easily drive the B2710 and tiller between the rows. Your best bet is to buy a tiller that's the same or slightly greater width than the tractor, but finish mowers and tillers are both expensive. Brush hogs are much cheaper for pasture mowing, but it can certainly be done with the finish mower if you only have grass and weeds; no brush or rocks.

Rust on the disks doesn't hurt anything; using it will let the dirt remove the rust. Where rust hurts is the bearings. If they are not damaged, you may only need to grease them. If they are damaged, they simply have to be replaced.

Using a moldboard or turning plow, followed by the disk, is a cheaper alternative to a tiller for preparing a garden for planting; may not be quite as smooth as a tiller does, but the majority of the big farms in this area (corn, cotton, milo, grain sorghum, etc.) use only a disk prior to planting, but of course, they are using monstrous sized, heavy disks.

Good luck with your shopping, and you're looking at the right tractors, but go by and look at some blue ones, too, so JimBinMI can quit worrying about it./w3tcompact/icons/laugh.gif

Bird

 

[Will]

My guess is that all of the tractors you are thinking of are going to have all the power you will ever need. I'd recommend buying the smallest tractor with the conveniences you want, (like ground clearance appropriate to your terrain, hydrostatic transmission if you want it). This will give you some extra money to buy the implements that you'll need to get the a lot of work out of your tractor.

 

[David USMC]

Cathy, I went to the North carolina Dept of Revenue's web-site and pulled up the Farmers Certificate E-599. I read it front and back. Be advised, Im not a tax attorney, however the document states that the test is your intent to resell vegetables,livestock,greenhouse products etc. There is no mention of any quantities or sizes. With a property your size you could produce alot of stuff for sale at the farmers market. Hope this helps. As far as writing off the tractor well, better talk to your accountant.

 

[Bird]

Financial considerations are certainly a good reason to consider smaller in my book; that's why I bought a B7100 in 1995 and didn't move up to the B2710 until last year./w3tcompact/icons/wink.gif

Bird

 

[PaulB]

Cathy - sorry I am so late joining in on the discussion, but I have been too busy USING my tractor to get online!! As alluded to above, I own a B1700. Last year it was made was 1999, but the current 2410 is the exact same tractor with a 200cc larger motor. I love mine, and find it capable of doing everything on my 10 acre horse farm that I need it to do. For your needs it, or the current 2410, would be perfect in my opinion. That being said, if I were to do it again I MIGHT have gone with the BX2200 just so I would have an additional $3000 to spend on implements. A tractor in and of itself is of little use - it needs stuff attatched to it to do any work. So far I have a loader ($3000), back blade ($300), bushhog mower ($500), and manure spreader ($2000) and would like to get a post hole digger ($650) and finish mower ($1500) in the near future. As you can see, the implements add up to a lot of $$ quickly, so you just might consider spending less on the initial tractor purchase if you are sure it would be enough tractor for the intended use, and leave some money in reserve for implements.

 

[David USMC]

I know the 2410 is a good tractor but, what about the new 7500 besides not having float control is there another reason for not choosing this model,of course less horsepower but also less money and weight...QQQQ

 

[DaleW]

Cathy,
Go for the 2710...you will not be sorry it is a great machine with about all the features that you would want. Don't worry about buying too much machine, you'll grow into it and find a new use for it everyday.
Try Modern Equipment at 800-540-1704. I bought mine from Steve Bowman. Good price and great people to work with.
Good luck on your decision
Dale

 

[JimBinMI]

DaleW,

Cathy's also been considering the B2910 and since she'll grow into more horsepower, I think she should probably get the M9000! /w3tcompact/icons/wink.gif

JimBinMI

We boys and our toys!