-25c My Tractor Won't Start After Being Plugged in. Help please
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sd455dan
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It sounds like Ford changed the key switch designs, at some point but all the earlier 2000- 5000 Fords came with this style ,
I now am curious as to which style that 545c has ? As far as draining the water I thought that it would be obvious to use the block heater with the engine covered for a few hours before attempting to drain any water- after a few hours (under a tarp) my 3000's engine block is above room temperature- which I just tested this theory this morning , -it was -4* F here this morning and mine drained fine...
The other thing my manual suggested was using ether -in addition to the block heater for temps to -20 but I don't like to advise anyone to use Ether- although on the on mid to late 60s Ford did offer a factory installed option for the 3 cylinder tractors 2-3000 models.
My factory owners manual Does suggest the block heater , thermostart AND excess fuel button in concert to start the tractor down to -20* .
Tx Jim
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sd455dan
I guess in my old age my reading comprehension is failing as I see no mention of covering tractor under a tarp with a heater blowing in your post I was referring to. I'll quote you[/quote]4) To check for water - most Fords have drain screws at the bottom of the metal fuel filter housings and IIRC turning them clockwise will drain the water first and once diesel flows clear just tighten back up[/quote] On the subject of the ign switch I'll bet the tractor will start by turning ign switch CW after Thermo-start is activated.
I guess in my old age my reading comprehension is failing as I see no mention of covering tractor under a tarp with a heater blowing in your post I was referring to. I'll quote you[/quote]4) To check for water - most Fords have drain screws at the bottom of the metal fuel filter housings and IIRC turning them clockwise will drain the water first and once diesel flows clear just tighten back up[/quote] On the subject of the ign switch I'll bet the tractor will start by turning ign switch CW after Thermo-start is activated.
sd455dan
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5) Good luck - I know when it gets as cold as the temp you listed mine will require a fully charged battery , the large in line coolant heater to be on for a t least 3 hours - engine block is above room temp to the touch this is using a cover to keep the heat in. normally I just use the thermo- start but on extreme occasions have employed the excess fuel button
There you go Jim - It was late and i was tired when posted and guess I assumed the whole post would be read before running out to the tractor... My order of writing the post could have been much better.
But after #4 is #5 and the name of the thread contains (After Being plugged in) and since I was responding to the OPs original post It was Obvious that the coolant heater was plugged in.
Actually if it is as cold as anything under 0*F I let my LARGE inline coolant heater run for more like 4 hours and I do tarp my tractor (this is using a cover[tarp] to keep the heat in)- don't have inside storage for my tractors
The inline coolant heater is what was referred to -I don't remember anything about a heater blowing on anything other than a hair dryer but I would only do that if it isn't starting with the coolant heater on a covered tractor. Also as far as turning the key right to start if his key switch is like mine turning right- will shut off the thermo-start just when you want the diesel vapor hot
not trying to argue, this is what works for me on my 1967 3000 diesel (not rebuilt yet) which may be similar to the 545 3 cylinder in the OPs original post and
as I said it was pretty cold here this morning and I was able to start mine... i just hope the OP has had some success- and if he isn't running synthetic 5W-40 that would be the first thing to do if running a 15W-40 I still need to change mine to 5W-40
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Thanks for all the replies. It was -43c with the windchill this morning so I didn't want to cause any damage to anything so didn't bother trying to start the Ford as I don't really need to use it today.
In the meantime I have covered the engine with an insulated tarp and have the block heater running. I checked the glass fuel bowl and have no gelling.
The engine is a 3 cyl perkins and the operators manual say to turn the key to the right 2 clicks and hold the thermostat button down for 15 seconds and then turn the key to the 3rd click (start). After starting keep holding the thermostat down for another 60 seconds. I tried holding for 15 seconds but maybe with the extreme cold I should be holding it down longer? If 15 seconds is good is 30 seconds better?
The weather here isn't going to change for a few days so I will wait until it warms a bit. I'm thinking all this cold cranking is not good for parts that don't like moving when it's sooooo cold.
I will post results.
Thanks
In the meantime I have covered the engine with an insulated tarp and have the block heater running. I checked the glass fuel bowl and have no gelling.
The engine is a 3 cyl perkins and the operators manual say to turn the key to the right 2 clicks and hold the thermostat button down for 15 seconds and then turn the key to the 3rd click (start). After starting keep holding the thermostat down for another 60 seconds. I tried holding for 15 seconds but maybe with the extreme cold I should be holding it down longer? If 15 seconds is good is 30 seconds better?
The weather here isn't going to change for a few days so I will wait until it warms a bit. I'm thinking all this cold cranking is not good for parts that don't like moving when it's sooooo cold.
I will post results.
Thanks
Pre-Start, 15 seconds should do it, if the Thermostart element is working properly.
My 3930 manual indicates that its Thermostart is effective down to about -18C, unassisted. Meaning - colder than -18C you need to plug in a block heater.
With a working block heater, there are really only 3 things that will stop a Thermostart element (basically just a glow-plug that's located in the intake manifold) from working:
1) Lack of fuel.
2) No 12v power supplied.
3) Burnt out element.
You can eliminate #2 by probing the electrical connection at the thermostart fitting with a 12v test light, while somebody else holds down the Tstart button. This test will let you know that the switches, fuses, and wiring are intact.
What I'd recommend is carefully pulling the connector off the back of the terminal on the Thermostart.
Makes probing with the test light a bit easier, but more importantly allows you to take a resistance reading on the Thermostart element. The reading should be low, mine was about 1.0 ohms. Verifying this will eliminate #3.
Measure between the electrical terminal on the Tstart element, and engine ground (battery Negative terminal should be handy). If the resistance is open (triple check), then the heating element in the Thermostart may have burnt open.
The other reason to pull the connector is to check for corrosion; obviously never a good thing......
Rgds, D.
My 3930 manual indicates that its Thermostart is effective down to about -18C, unassisted. Meaning - colder than -18C you need to plug in a block heater.
With a working block heater, there are really only 3 things that will stop a Thermostart element (basically just a glow-plug that's located in the intake manifold) from working:
1) Lack of fuel.
2) No 12v power supplied.
3) Burnt out element.
You can eliminate #2 by probing the electrical connection at the thermostart fitting with a 12v test light, while somebody else holds down the Tstart button. This test will let you know that the switches, fuses, and wiring are intact.
What I'd recommend is carefully pulling the connector off the back of the terminal on the Thermostart.
Makes probing with the test light a bit easier, but more importantly allows you to take a resistance reading on the Thermostart element. The reading should be low, mine was about 1.0 ohms. Verifying this will eliminate #3.
Measure between the electrical terminal on the Tstart element, and engine ground (battery Negative terminal should be handy). If the resistance is open (triple check), then the heating element in the Thermostart may have burnt open.
The other reason to pull the connector is to check for corrosion; obviously never a good thing......
Rgds, D.
sd455dan
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That's REALLY COLD I think you're right to wait- if there are no pressing needs for the tractor.
Were you able to confirm that the block heater is working and keeping the engine warm??
the thermo-start tests are good ones- as is the POOF sound
mine always at least tries to start if I hear that.Replaced the one on my Chinese tractor ( It was intermittent in operation) and they are fairly inexpensive about $20 checked yesterdays tractors and looks like they sell for $34.41 if bad for the Ford 3000 and 545
MHarryE
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You said Perkins engine, and describe thermostat making a "poof". The older Perkins engines (built when Cat acquired Perkins) had a ignition coil at the start of the intake manifold. First you turn the switch and hold it which does 2 things - it heats a cloil that will ignite diesel fuel and the heated coil also opens a spray valve that allows a fine spray of fuel into the manifold. Once you then start cranking the fuel pressure sprays diesel into the intake manifold, the hot coil ignites it, and warms the air flow going into the engine so it will start. Of course it can't be too much fuel or it will use all the incoming oxygen. Also the cold air coming in will cool the coil so it will stop burning and shut off the warming fuel flow so it may need to be repeated several times in cold weather before the engine will really take off. They dropped this system in favor of glow plugs with Tier 3 (2003 - 2004 depending on power class). Some things we found were that operators held the key switch in the coil warming position for longer times as the weather got colder thinking they were getting more heat. Not so. The heat came only when the engine was cranking over so the lift pump could supply pressurized fuel to the coil. Second is this excessive on time could burn out the coil.
Our JD 6230 started okay yesterday at -27C but was a no go today at -33C. Those are real temps, not wind chill. No problem because the cattle had enough hay but tomorrow it may climb to -15C. We still don't have the replacement block heater in place. We are running JD's recommended 0W-40 synthetic but we also boost with a start assist or it won't spin fast enough to start.
Our JD 6230 started okay yesterday at -27C but was a no go today at -33C. Those are real temps, not wind chill. No problem because the cattle had enough hay but tomorrow it may climb to -15C. We still don't have the replacement block heater in place. We are running JD's recommended 0W-40 synthetic but we also boost with a start assist or it won't spin fast enough to start.
