2N cutout relay

[2Njohn]

hi all I purchased a new generator and cutout relay for my 2n. I have a question about the relay when I got it today I looked it over and on the back is a small hole with a tiny half inch long bare copper wire sticking out and there is a dab of solder nearby the hole. I think the wire should be attached there but I am not sure. Anyone know if I should solder it on if it does go there.

I would take it back but it came via mail from Washington today as my local tractor supply does not stock these cut outs.

I am not sure my original cutout is bad but given my generator armature is cooked I suspect the cutout is bad.

Tried to attach a picture hope it works.

 

[2Njohn]

Just a note the new generator is not cooked I have not installed it yet. There has been no rush I been running the tractor a few years with no charging system it will be great to finally get it working though.

 

[Soundguy]

run it as is.

 

[2Njohn]

run it as is.

I did that and it is working perfectly. I finally put the new clutch and axle sure seals in also. She is like new

 

[Soundguy]

nice!

 

[2Njohn]

nice!

I spoke to soon. She quit charging a few days ago. I verified the generator is charging so I opened the cutout to check the contact point and it looks like it got real hot melted a few things inside and the contact is setting open.

Bad switch from the get go or what could have caused this?

 

[Soundguy]

probably chinese junk.

here's my advice.

hit radio shack and get a 25a full wave bridge rectifier.. it is 4 diodes wired in a certain formation to convert ac to dc.. however you can wire it so that you are using a single segment.. it will function in place of your cutout. in fact.. you could gut the cutout and mount hte bridge in there.. it has a hole for screw mounting. that 25a bridge will likely last forever on an 11amp genny.. but if the segment ever did die.. you have 3 spares.

 

[Soundguy]

here's the link:

25A, 50V Full-Wave Bridge Rectifiers : Rectifiers | RadioShack.com

 

[Soundguy]

and here's a drawing i made to wire it.

http://www.tractorshed.com/gallery/pieces/v5567.jpg

1 part says to armature.. the other to outside of cutout.. that runs on to your 3rd terminal on your resistor mount.. etc.

this assumes positive ground... in this configuration it is good for 50a at 50v.. so no way for your 11a N genny to damage it in an overload situation..

 

[2Njohn]

and here's a drawing i made to wire it.

http://www.tractorshed.com/gallery/pieces/v5567.jpg

1 part says to armature.. the other to outside of cutout.. that runs on to your 3rd terminal on your resistor mount.. etc.

this assumes positive ground... in this configuration it is good for 50a at 50v.. so no way for your 11a N genny to damage it in an overload situation..

That is great info,thank you. I will go that route. I was wary of the contact style cutout anyway after spending 120 on a new generator to replace the one that got cooked from a stuck closed cutout.

 

[Soundguy]

some people mount the bridge inside the housing of the round can cutout. it just barely fits, unless they recently changed the cutout size or the bridge substraight size, . I have seen aftermarket cutouts that were rectangular and would not fit the bridge.

alternately.. you can just run a bolt thru it and screw it to a conviemient spot and insulate the terminals with dummy spade lugs.. etc.. etc.

 

[2Njohn]

I saved the original cutout can with the ford stamping my hope is to gut it and stuff it with the new setup. The cutout I bought is a cheap thin piece of crud it is round but it is poorly made obviously.

 

[Soundguy]

good luck, we are all counting on you! No pressure.

 

[2Njohn]

good luck, we are all counting on you! No pressure.

Hehe thanks. I already ran into a problem or two... The original cutout can is rusted together and I can't get the casing to slide off so I am soaking it in ph blaster and we just got our new 7 week old labrador puppy and she is a handful. Looks like this May take a few days of delegating priorities. I did pickup the rectifier bridge today, I had not been inside a radio shack since Tandy computers came out... All kinds of cool toys in there.



I will keep you posted. John

 

[Soundguy]

keep bailing.. eventually the water will stop rising!

 

[2Njohn]

keep bailing.. eventually the water will stop rising!

Had some time tonight the old can was rusted together pretty good but I got it removed without destroying it.

Even with that picture I am a little confused on the wiring. The terminal closest to the + goes to the armature?

I took a picture of the gizmo I mounted in there. My wife threw the package away..... In my pic the bottom terminal is the + then left right and top terminal.

 

[2Njohn]

Oh good grief I see I mounted it on the bottom if the can.:confused3: I will fix that now.

 

[Soundguy]

the one marked + goes to the armature.

then you have 2 marked AC, wire those together, and run that to your battery connection ( start switch hot.. etc... )

wired like that you have multiple times the capacity of the generator.

once connected up. put a meter on the battery and adjust for a charge voltage at normal operating rpm of about 7.2v or looking at your ammeter.. about a 3a charge when running.

this assumes you are still 6v positive ground.

 

[2Njohn]

the one marked + goes to the armature.

then you have 2 marked AC, wire those together, and run that to your battery connection ( start switch hot.. etc... )

wired like that you have multiple times the capacity of the generator.

once connected up. put a meter on the battery and adjust for a charge voltage at normal operating rpm of about 7.2v or looking at your ammeter.. about a 3a charge when running.

this assumes you are still 6v positive ground.

Yep still 6 volt ground I had time today to fiddle with it. Got it all done and it is working you would never know it is not original by looking at it. Thanks again for the help.

 

[Soundguy]

glad to help