3 point log skidder

[fstrojny]

Looking for good plans to build 3 point log skidder. Would buy one, but they rape us for shipping to Alaska. Have a JD 3005 utility tractor. Thanks

 

[Wolfy]

I simply use one of those 3 pt trailer receivers. Cheap to buy.

 

[fstrojny]

Thanks for the info. I will look into it.

 

[Taylortractornut]

Im building one right now thats got a hydraulic grapple that uses one cylinder to open and close. Its kinda like the Baileys unit. When I get done I can send some patterns of the grapple part the rest was made to fit. THis wil lbe used on my 3000 Yanmar or Dads 3040 LS. I have to make patterns out to burn them on my table burner.

 

[Piston]

Interesting,
I have a spare landscape rake that is completely trashed, but the main portion of it that connects to the 3 pt hitch is still in good shape. I was thinking of attaching a simple set of heavy duty log tongs to the back, like where the rake attaches (get rid of the rake) and use the combination of the 3 pt hitch and hydraulic top link to raise the log off the ground. I don't have the top link yet but should within the next month or so.

 

[Wolfy]

Piston, I like your idea. Even if you don't have a hydraulic top link, your idea will still work. You would just have to shorten a regular top link all the way.

 

[Gordon Gould]

The simplest I know is a cross draw bar and one or more tractor hooks with a few chockers. All available from TSC if you have them up there. You can put two chockers in each tractor hook if you want. Pick the log(s) off the ground with your lift arms and go.

 

[RonMar]

Well however you hook it up, don't forget to have the lowest attach point connected back to the drawbar. I have seen some pretty nice hydraulic log grapples on booms, and they are great for hooking onto and lifting the log. The problem lies in the geometry if the log should hang up while dragging. If it does, the pull force suddenly gets applied to the toplink attach point. That is a bad place to pull from, unless your intention IS to wheelie the tractor over backwards. Pulling should always be done from the lowest point possible, which is usually where the drawbar is located

If I were lifting the log with the 3PH in some fashion, I would incorporate a short tight chain back to the drawbar so the pulling force comes from there like in the first attached drawing.

Another option would be a purpose built log drag like in the second drawing. You kick this thing under the end of the log, like a hand truck, then fold the end of it down to lift the end of the log off the ground. The log gets chained to the drag, and the whole thing gets attached to the drawbar. This provides a smooth angled skid to pull the log along the ground. Same theory as a log arch, only simpler... You could also use a 3PH boom to lift the log and get the skid under the log. Whichever way, but the important point is that ALL the pulling force should come from the drawbar.

Good luck

 

[ruffneck]

Check out norwood industries web site as they have a 3pt log skidder that uses a set of tongs to skid with. You get a pretty good look at it when u watch the video. It would not take much to fabricate.

 

[Chilly807]

If the end of the log is hidden behind the "skidder" plate, it can't hook on anything. This is how they build skidding winches commercially. I built mine from 3" square tube and expanded metal. 4 hooks on the top to hook chokers into.

If I had to do it over again I'd build it a bit wider and higher, other than that it works fine. Allowing room for a hydraulic winch would have been a good idea too.

As with any equipment, you need to be careful using it, nothing is foolproof.

Sean