3-point question, rear blade build

[JackDWaller]

Hi All,

As I progress with my rear blade build I am wondering about the set-up of my 3-point linkage. Is there any criterion used to determine where the links are placed? This could affect the next stage of my blade design.

I have included a pic that shows the iMatch with the blade support "inverted T" locked into it. Flush with the bottom of this "T" will be a substantial pivot point since I want offset capability.

Initially I will not include the hydraulics, but am designing with hydraulics in mind. The blade proper is 6'2" and is obviously very heavy. This reflects the fact that all the materials are scrap and free. I hope it does not become too heavy - it's probably not going to exceed 400 or so lbs. There is a loader up front on the JD 2320.

The blade is being designed to have tilt, angle and offset capability following the LandPride format. Thus, the rectangular tube rising off the blade that provides the tilt. I need to determine how tall this tube needs to be. I know I need to be able to clear the main support for 360 degree rotation but am wondering if there are other things to consider. That led me to question what height capability my 3-point provides and how I should determine where the links should be pinned.

Having never cleared snow with ******* I'll no doubt be in for some surprises but would like to keep them to a minimum, so helpful advice is always welcome.

Apologies for the pic quality - had to depend on my son's phone.

Jack

 

[teg]

Looks very good... heavy is not a bad thing with blades. I'm guessing with all the adjustments that you'll be doing more than just moving snow.

 

[bullbreaker]

Worksaver Rear Tractor Blades

Worksaver RBHD-Series Rear Tractor Blades
From here you can go to manuals/parts breakdown list.
Just more good info IMHO.

Boone

 

[teg]

Here's a Tufline with all the adjustments... offset, tilt and rotate

 

[GPintheMitten]

I really like the design of that tough line. Ingenious to use the rounds to accomplish the adjustments.

 

[JackDWaller]

Thanks for the food for thought and picture/manual references. Still looking for some advice regarding the 3-point settings relative to blade height. Should I be designing with some mid position of the lower arms? How much clearance height is needed with a blade? Do you ever find yourself pulling snow from a pile or whatever. This is new to me.

I do hope to use the blade for landscaping which led to me deciding to add some tilt. I'm wondering if anyone has used tilt in a floating mode levelling hilly areas? I don't have pipe at my disposal, but agree it can be pretty efficient for rotational positioning with pins. Also I definitely want to have a center gauge wheel setup.

Jack

 

[teg]

...Still looking for some advice regarding the 3-point settings relative to blade height. Should I be designing with some mid position of the lower arms? How much clearance height is needed with a blade?...

I guess we might have a problem understanding your question a little bit... most blades start below where the 3 point arms hang down from - this is mainly to allow the blade to swing around 360*. If you are talking about "Mid Position" the blade can't spin. Material (snow/dirt) will roll out the sides (or if angled, one side) before the blade builds up too much material. confused: did I answer the question??? )

 

[JackDWaller]

Sorry for not being clearer. I realize that I need to have clearance to rotate the blade 360 degrees but some blades seem to be down lower than what that would imply. That got me wondering about the nominal setting of the 3-point linkage since it will influence how high the whole blade contraption will be able to be raised. In my case I need to decide how tall (long) the rectangular tube coming off the blade proper needs to be and also to decide where to locate my pivot point at the iMatch "inverted T" - flush or slightly below. Once I cut some critical pieces I won't have options in this regard (including how far back to locate the blade).

So, first of all I need to know where the 3-point itself should sit relative to the tractor (linkage choices). Does that help explain?

Jack

 

[Yellowhair42]

Looks very sturdy except that rectangle tube. You might want to consider making that a solid bar at the very least.

 

[teg]

I'm also sorry if I don't understand... Let's not worry about that.

Is it the length (how far back behind the tractor) the blade sits? If that is what you are asking, it's not cast in stone. I think the further away the more leverage it will have and that is only a problem with a light tractor.

If you are talking about a side view... I would make it to be somewhat level with the blade at 90* when the toplink in the "middle" position so that you can screw the toplink in to angle the blade to be less aggressive (skim off the top) or you can extend the toplink to make the blade dig in and cut more.

Again, the worst thing either of us are doing is bumping your thread up to the top so maybe someone else might see it and chime in with correct answers