3-point question

   / 3-point question #11  
My mower has a hinged 3PH frame in the front and a chain running from this to the rear part of the mower deck. When I want to mow, I loosen the top link a lot, so the chain goes slack, which lets the mower ride (float) on the rear wheel. Then I adjust the lift arms so the deck is more or less level and won't dig in on bumps and corners.
When I want to lift the deck for transport, I tighten the top link until the mower deck chain is really taut, then just lift and drive away. And, yes, for this rigamarole, a hydraulic top link would make my mowing time a lot easier!
BOB
 
   / 3-point question #12  
A hydraulic top link is great, but I don't have one either. If your mower won't lift the tailwheel off the ground, you're either over the weight limit of the 3ph or the top link is too short, or possibly the lower lift arms are set too short. Any one of the three will cause the same problem.

Measure the length of your top link, then shorten it by about an inch at a time and see what happens. I'll try to take a picture of mine the next time I have it hooked up, but that may be a while.

My tailwheel lifts maybe 8 inches off the ground when fully raised, I could have it set to lift more but that would affect the terrain following capability of the deck.

My setup went something like this... I leveled the mower from front to back, then set the front slightly lower than the back to reduce blade wear and power consumption, as the manual said. The idea is that the front of the deck should be the only part cutting, the rest is just there for the ride.

Once you have the deck height where you want it, then mark the position control for the 3ph at that point so you can easily go back to it every time. The Kubota I have has a sliding stop that you can lock in place at any spot along the lever travel. All I do is raise the deck when turning, then when ready to mow again, just slide the lever ahead against the adjustable stop to go back to the same height every time. I think your 3038 ( I think that's right?) should be almost the same if not identical.

Ok, now for the top link.. the Land Pride linkage has a flexible section as I mentioned before that allows the mower to follow the terrain better. With the mowing deck in the mowing position as adjusted before, there should be some sag in the linkage between the top link and the mower attachment point. This is where the chain would go if you're not using a solid top link. Mine sags down maybe a couple inches at most. This allows the mower to drop at the tailwheel slightly and keep cutting evenly when you go over a rise with the tractor. More sag = less lift height ability, less sag = higher lift but less terrain following. It's a compromise.

See in the tractor manual which hole set in the tractor end of the top link attachment point it says to use for a rotary cutter. With the Kubota it's the bottom set of holes.

I think the length of the top link or the amount of sag you have is the problem, once you get it set up once correctly it'll make perfect sense the next time.

Sean
 
   / 3-point question
  • Thread Starter
#13  
Thanks again guys, I will hit up the tractor when I get home this evening, I am stuck at work...not nearly as much fun as put hours on the green machine.
 
   / 3-point question #14  
Is the pto shaft bottoming out? I reread your post and at first the problem was not lifting straight, then you said it wont lift.
 
   / 3-point question #15  
I just got my first 3 point rotary cutter, the only thing I had before was a snow blower and a post hole digger. I am a bit confused on the rotary cutter, maybe I have done something wrong. With both the blower and digger the 3 point can lift it up and down. With the rotary cutter it just seems to tilt the deck. I also have an issue when I turn to tight with it the bottom three point arms rub the back tires, and backing up with it is a PITA.

Any tips, this is obviously the biggest heavies 3-pint implement I have.

I have a 3038E
The rotary cutter is a RC2060.

If your toplink attaching point to the tractor has multiple holes as my l3940 does, move down a hole or two. You will lift the implements much higher.
 
   / 3-point question #16  
If you need a catagory 1 hydraulic toplink to help solve your problem? I have them at $250 + shipping. Ken Sweet
 
   / 3-point question #17  
See in the tractor manual which hole set in the tractor end of the top link attachment point it says to use for a rotary cutter. With the Kubota it's the bottom set of holes.


Sean

Oops, didn't see this part of Sean's response when I added mine above. So I second Sean, move down a hole or 2 on the tractor end of the toplink!
 
   / 3-point question #18  
"Most" rotary cutters have a flexible toplink attachment. My frontier has the same U shaped piece that someone said the land pride does. If this is the case adjust your toplink until the U is a a 45deg angle toward the tractor. This will let the cutter float over obsticales and still will lift when raised.

good luck.
 
   / 3-point question #19  
What size tractor have you? are you having to use a Override clutch? Has it been suggested that the drive shaft may be too long?
 
   / 3-point question
  • Thread Starter
#20  
Getting ready to head home and get some work in on it and pictures of it. Quick question, how tight should the sway chains be? Mine keep it off the tires now, but they still have a little give, should they be rigid?

The PTO is not hooked up yet, i wanted to get it mounted right before messing with the PTO, the shaft according to instructions is the correct size, it will have an over lap of about 9 inches and never gets anywhere close to full overlap.
 

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